The situation when your Pozis refrigerator suddenly stops performing its main function can become a real stress that threatens food damage. Owners often notice that it has become warmer in the main chamber, or, conversely, food begins to freeze to the walls, although the temperature regulator has not changed. Understanding why the Pozis refrigerator does not coolrequires a careful analysis of the symptoms, since the reasons can vary from a simple thermostat overload to a complex refrigerant leak.
Before calling a technician or looking for spare parts, you must conduct initial visual and auditory diagnostics. Many problems associated with violation air circulation or incorrect installation can be solved independently in a few minutes. However, if we are talking about a sealed circuit or electrical, a more in-depth approach will be required. In this article, we will analyze in detail the mechanics of the operation of the units Pozis and identify the hidden causes of failures.
Primary diagnostics: analysis of the compressor operation
The first step in identifying a malfunction is to evaluate the work compressor. This is the heart of the refrigeration unit, and if it does not beat, no cold is produced. Approach the operating device and listen: you should hear a smooth, low-frequency hum. If you hear a click followed by silence, or the motor hums, but after a few seconds a characteristic knock is heard and it goes silent, this is an alarming signal.
Often the problem lies in the start-up relay, which protects the motor from overloads. If the relay fails, it cannot start the motor, and cooling cycle does not start. In some models Pozis the relay can be replaced independently by selecting an analogue according to the markings. However, if the compressor is hot to the touch, but does not start, it may be jammed or the winding has burned out.
How to check the serviceability of the compressor without instruments?
Unplug the refrigerator. Remove the cover from the back and locate the start relay on the compressor. Carefully remove it. Shake the relay: if you hear a ringing sound inside (as if from loose parts), it means that the internal spring or contacts are damaged and the relay needs to be replaced. If there is no sound, the problem is probably deeper.
Pay attention to the temperature of the condenser (grid at the back or side walls). They should feel warm or hot during normal operation. If the compressor is running, but the grate is cold and the chamber is warm, it means that the refrigerant is not circulating through the system. This may indicate a clogged capillary tube or, worse, a lack of freon.
Refrigerant problems: freon leaks and blockages
One of the most common reasons why Pozis refrigerator stops freezing is a refrigerant leak. Freon is a working fluid that, evaporating, takes heat from the chambers. Unlike oil in a car engine, freon is not consumed during operation; if it is gone, it means that the tightness of the circuit is broken.
Leaks often occur in places where tubes are soldered or in the foamed part of the body due to corrosion. Symptoms are: the compressor running without interruption, no or poor cooling, and no heating of the condenser array. It is difficult to notice a leak visually, since the gas is colorless and odorless, but sometimes you can find an oily spot where the gas comes out.
- 🧊 Complete loss of cold: the food in both chambers defrosts, despite the operation of the motor.
- 🔇 Silence in the system: during normal operation, gurgling or hissing is heard inside, if there is a leak there is no sound.
- 🌡️ Temperature imbalance: one chamber may be colder than another, or the cold disappears intermittently.
Another problem - clogged capillary tube. Oil circulates through the system, which over time can oxidize or wash dirt out of the filter drier, creating a plug. In this case, the compressor works in increased mode, trying to push freon, but there is no circulation. Often, when clogged, the lower part of the condenser (grid) remains cold, and the upper part remains hot.
Malfunctions of the defrost system in No Frost refrigerators
If you have a model Pozis with the system No Frost, and you notice that the refrigerator does not cool, but the compressor is working properly, the reason may lie in the defrost system. In such units, the frost on the evaporator (which is located behind the rear wall of the chamber) must be periodically melted with special heaters. If this process is disrupted, the evaporator becomes overgrown with ice, which blocks air circulation.
Air simply cannot pass through the ice plug to the products. As a result, the chamber is warm, and a huge piece of ice is hidden behind the rear plastic panel. The main culprit here is Defrost heating element (heating element). If it burns out, the ice does not melt. Also, the defrost sensor often fails, which does not give a command to turn on the heating, or the timer, which does not switch modes.
For diagnostics, you need to defrost the refrigerator completely (at least 24 hours) and check the integrity of the heating element with a multimeter. If the spiral is intact, the sensor is checked. Some models Pozis use a fuse that blows when the heating element overheats, breaking the circuit.
☑️ Checking the No Frost system
⚠️ Attention: If you find that the back wall in the chamber is swollen or deformed by ice, do not try to pick out the ice with a knife or sharp objects. You can damage the evaporator, which will lead to an instant leak of freon and expensive repairs.
Thermostat and temperature sensors: when the brain does not see the cold
Responsible for maintaining the set temperature thermostat (thermostat) or electronic temperature sensor. If this element is faulty, it may send incorrect signals to the control board or directly to the compressor. For example, the thermostat may “think” that the chamber is already cold enough and does not turn on the motor, although it is warm inside.
In mechanical thermostats Pozis the bellows tube often breaks or the contacts get stuck. In electronic models, the resistance sensors themselves fail. A symptom of a thermostat malfunction is either constant operation of the compressor (products freeze) or its complete silence. It is also worth checking the capillary tube of the thermostat: if it has moved away from the evaporator, the temperature readings will be incorrect.
Sometimes the problem lies in incorrect settings. If you accidentally turn the control knob to the “0” or “Min” position, the refrigerator will not work. In electronic models, the mode may have gone wrong or the “Vacation” function has been activated, which turns off the main camera.
Mechanical damage and condition of the seals
It would seem like a trifle, but a worn out seal door is a common cause that the refrigerator does not keep cold. If the rubber is cracked, dirty or deformed, warm air from outside constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to compensate for heat loss by working non-stop, but in the end it can overheat and shut down due to thermal protection.
You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter: if it pulls out easily and without resistance, it means that the seal does not fit in this place. It is also worth checking the door hinges: if the door is skewed and does not close tightly, the cold will escape.
Mechanical damage may also affect the internal fan in No Frost systems. If it stops due to icing of the blades or a motor breakdown, cold air will not be forced into the chamber, although the evaporator will be icy.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| Humming, but not cooling | Freon leakage / Clogged | Works without stopping | High (needs a technician) |
| Clicks and is silent | Faulty starting relay | Short-term attempts to start | Low (replacement of relay) |
| Freezes, but not enough | Wear of seal / heating element | Works in enhanced mode | Medium |
| Turns on and off | Compressor burnt out | Short operating cycle | High (motor replacement) |
Why is the refrigerator body swollen?
Bloating of the side walls or rear panel most often indicates that the evaporator, frozen into the body, has ruptured due to corrosion or mechanical damage. This is a critical malfunction that requires the installation of an external evaporator (“crying”).
Electronic control board: hidden failures
Modern models Pozis are equipped with electronic control modules. If the board is fried or has a software glitch, it may not supply power to the compressor or fans. This often happens after power surges in the network.
Signs of electronics malfunction are: flashing indicators, lack of response to buttons, random switching on and off of different components. In some cases, a full reset (reboot) helps: unplug the refrigerator from the outlet for 15-20 minutes, and then turn it on again. If the problem is a memory glitch, this may help.
However, if the power element on the board burns out (for example, a compressor relay or a fan triac), soldering and replacement of parts will be required. Repairing the board yourself is only possible if you have skills in working with electronics and a soldering iron.
⚠️ Attention: Before any diagnostics of the electrical part (contact testing, checking the board), be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Electric shock from 220V is dangerous to life.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the Pozis refrigerator freeze only in the freezer, but it’s warm in the main chamber?
Most likely, it’s clogged channel for supplying cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator. This often happens due to the formation of an ice plug in the No Frost system or a malfunction of the damper that regulates the air flow. A freon leak is also possible when its quantity is only enough to maintain low temperatures in a small freezer volume.
Is it possible to operate a Pozis refrigerator if it has stopped freezing?
For a short time - yes, to unload food. But you cannot keep a faulty unit turned on for a long time. If the cause is a leak, air and moisture may enter the system, causing the compressor to fail. If the problem is electrical, there is a risk of a short circuit or fire.
How long should the refrigerator cool down after defrosting before turning it on?
After complete defrosting (if you defrosted it to remove the ice jam), it is recommended to wait at least 2-4 hours before turning it on to allow the moisture on the electrical contacts to dry. If we are talking about transportation, then when transporting it lying down, the refrigerator must stand upright for at least 8-12 hours (preferably a day) for the oil to drain into the compressor.
The humming of the refrigerator has become louder, is this normal?
A slight change in sound is acceptable, but a strong hum, vibration or knocking indicates problems. Perhaps the refrigerator is not level, vibrating against furniture, or the compressor shock absorbers are worn out. If the humming is accompanied by a lack of cold, this is a sign of a serious breakdown.