The situation when the refrigerator Indesit continues to freeze in the bottom compartment, but in the upper chamber the temperature rises to room temperature, this is one of the most common complaints from the owners of this equipment. Compressor it can work without interruption, emitting the usual hum, or it can turn on extremely rarely, creating the illusion of normal operation of the unit. However, the food in the freezer begins to melt, and condensation appears on the walls or, conversely, frost disappears. This is the first signal that a failure has occurred in the refrigerant circulation or temperature control system.
Many users mistakenly believe that the problem lies solely in the thermostat, and begin to endlessly turn the regulator, which is the case with modern models No Frost or Low Frost may be useless. Malfunction can be either mechanical in nature, associated with a gas leak, or electrical, when the electronics stops sending the correct commands to the actuators. Understanding the structure of your model Indesit is the key to quick diagnosis.
It is important to immediately determine the type of your refrigerator: drip defrosting system or No Frost. In the first case, the evaporator is located behind the back wall of the freezer, and in the second, it is hidden behind the panel, and the cold is pumped by a fan. If in models with No Frost the fan stops working or the air duct is icing up, the cold simply will not flow into the upper compartment, even if the compressor is working. Further actions depend on the exact symptoms, which we will consider in detail.
Problems with the defrosting system in No Frost models
Refrigerators Indesit No Frost are designed so that the ice that accumulates on the evaporator must periodically thaw. A chain of elements is responsible for this process: Defrost heating element, a defrost sensor (defroster) and a timer or electronic control module. If any of these elements fails, the evaporator becomes covered with a “coat” of ice, which blocks the air channel. As a result, the fan hums, but cold air physically cannot pass into the main chamber.
Most often, the heating element itself burns out or the sensor sticks, which “thinks” that the temperature is already high and does not turn on the heating element. This can be seen visually if you remove the back panel in the freezer: you will see a huge lump of ice blocking the fan. Defrosting manual mode for 24 hours can temporarily solve the problem, but if you do not replace the faulty part, the ice plug will form again after 1-2 weeks.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to chip the ice with a knife or sharp objects! In Indesit models, the evaporator tubes often run very close to the surface. One awkward movement will lead to a puncture and instant leak of freon, which will turn a simple repair into an expensive procedure with replacement of the circuit.
For diagnostics, you often need to ring the heating element and sensor with a multimeter. The resistance of the heating element should be within several hundred Ohms, and the sensor should “ring” at room temperature and open the circuit when cooled. If you are not confident in your skills in working with electrical appliances, it is better to entrust this procedure to a specialist.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Refrigerant leak and system blockage
One of the most unpleasant reasons why the upper The camera Indesit stopped freezing, it's a banal leak freon. This can happen due to corrosion of the tubes (especially in older models with a foamed circuit) or mechanical damage due to inaccurate defrosting. Freon evaporates, and its quantity is not enough to freeze the entire volume of the refrigerator. Usually in such cases the compressor works continuously, trying to gain temperature, but the freezer can barely cope, and the upper part is completely warm.
The second option is clogging of the capillary tube. A microscopic blood clot could have formed in the system from oil or moisture oxidation products. This blocks the circulation of refrigerant. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor is hot, the condenser (grid at the back) heats unevenly (only partially), and there is no cold in the chambers. Unlike a leak, if there is a blockage, the compressor may turn off due to overheating, since it cannot force gas through the plug.
It is almost impossible to diagnose a leak visually, unless it is accompanied by an oil stain under the refrigerator (which is rare). Masters use leak detectors or nitrogen pressure method. It is extremely difficult to independently determine the location of a leak without equipment. If you notice that the refrigerator turned on, worked for 10-15 minutes and turned off, and there is heat inside, this is an almost guaranteed leak or serious blockage.
Is it possible to refuel the refrigerator yourself?
Self-refueling is impossible without a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station and scales In addition, you need to know the exact brand and weight of the refrigerant (usually R600a or R134a), and also be able to seal the system correctly. An attempt to “just add gas” from a can will lead to compressor failure.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
In refrigerators Indesit with mechanical control, thermostatis responsible for the temperature. This is a device that closes and opens the electrical circuit of the compressor depending on the temperature in the chamber. If the thermostat is “stuck” in the open state, the compressor simply will not receive a signal to start. As a result, the refrigerator stands silently, and the temperature in both chambers rises. You can check it by closing the contacts directly: if the refrigerator is working, the culprit has been found.
In models with electronic control (where there is a display on the door), the role of a thermostat is performed temperature sensors (NTC thermistors). There may be several of them: one in the freezer, one in the refrigerator, sometimes another one on the evaporator. If the sensor in the upper chamber gives incorrect readings (for example, it “thinks” that it is -10°C, although in fact it is +10°C), the control module will not turn on the compressor or fan.
Often the problem lies in oxidation of the contacts or broken wires going to the sensor. When diagnosing, it is important to check not only the sensor itself, but also the integrity of the wiring to the control board. Indesit known for its reliable compressors, but electronics and sensors can fail due to power surges in the network.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation |
|---|---|---|
| The top does not freeze, the bottom freezes slightly | Freon leakage | Works without stopping |
| Warm everywhere, the compressor is silent | Thermostat/sensor is faulty | Won’t turn on |
| There is ice in the freezer, the top is warm | Clogged defrost system (No Frost) | Operates with overload |
| It's cold, it's not cold | Problems with the control module | Chaotic switching on |
Failure in the fan operation
In systems No Frost i Low Frost responsible for the distribution of cold fan. It is located in the freezer and blows cold air through a special channel into the upper compartment. If the fan stops, the cold remains in the freezer (where food can even freeze), and there is heat in the upper chamber. The reasons for the stop can be different: from banal icing of the blades to combustion of the motor winding.
Sometimes the fan is working, but does not receive power due to a faulty control board or broken wires in the door corrugation (if the fan is installed there). When you open the freezer door, you should hear a characteristic fan noise. If there is silence, you need to remove the panel and check the rotation manually (after disconnecting the device from the mains!).
It is worth noting that some models Indesit use a damper that regulates the air flow. If the damper mechanism is stuck in the closed position, the air simply will not flow upward. This is a mechanical malfunction that requires disassembling the air duct and checking the movement of the damper.
⚠️ Attention: Specifications and location of parts may vary depending on the specific series Indesit (BIS, EF, DS, etc.). Always refer to the diagram of your device before disassembling. The information is for reference only.
Malfunctions of the control module and start relay
The “brain” of the refrigerator is electronic module. It is he who processes signals from sensors and controls the compressor, fan and heating elements. A voltage surge, moisture during defrosting, or a manufacturing defect can damage the board. Symptoms can be very different: the refrigerator may not turn on at all, it may hum but not start, or it may work in chaotic mode.
Also worth mentioning starting relay the compressor. If it burns out, the compressor will try to start (a click will be heard), hum for a few seconds and turn off with a characteristic metallic clang. In this case, the motor does not have time to develop the required pressure, and there will be no cold anywhere. Replacing the relay is one of the simplest and cheapest repair procedures.
Diagnostics of the control module at home is difficult. You can visually inspect the board for burnt tracks, swollen capacitors, or traces of burning. However, to accurately determine the malfunction, professional equipment and knowledge in electronics are required.
Mechanical damage and wear of seals
Do not forget about the simplest things. If sealing rubber the door of the upper chamber is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The compressor is working hard, trying to compensate for the heat flow, but it can’t cope. You can check the tightness using a sheet of paper: hold it with a closed door and try to pull it out. If the sheet is pulled out too easily, the seal is broken.
Also, the cause of poor cooling may be an incorrectly set temperature. If you have just loaded the refrigerator with a large amount of warm food or set the regulator to minimum, the system may not have time to cool the volume. In such cases, correct operationhelps: do not put it hot, distribute food evenly, do not clog the ventilation holes.
Sometimes the problem lies in the skew of the door due to improper installation or loosening of the hinges. The door may appear closed, but in fact have a gap of several millimeters, sufficient to disrupt the temperature regime. Adjusting the hinges often solves the problem without calling a technician.
Why does the Indesit refrigerator take a long time to gain temperature after defrosting?
After complete defrosting (especially if it lasted less than 24 hours), ice could remain in the system in hard-to-reach places, for example, in air ducts. In addition, the compressor takes time to reach operating mode. If after 4-5 hours the temperature has not started to drop, there may be a freon leak during defrosting (if you used a hairdryer or sharp objects) or the sensor has failed.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not freeze?
For a short time - yes, food can be transferred to the lower part or use cooler bags. However, operation in this mode is dangerous for the compressor, which will work without rest, which will lead to its overheating and eventual combustion. In addition, bacteria will begin to multiply in a warm chamber.
How much does a repair cost if a defrost heating element burns out?
The cost consists of the price of the part itself (the heating element) and the work of a replacement technician. The heating element is a consumable item, and its replacement is considered a scheduled repair. Depending on the region and model Indesit, the price may vary, but this is one of the most inexpensive types of repair compared to replacing the compressor or sealing the circuit.
What to do if there is water in the upper chamber, but there is no cold?
This is a classic sign of a clogged drain hole. Water from melted ice does not go into the pan, but accumulates at the bottom of the chamber and flows out or freezes below. It is necessary to clean the drainage using a special flexible wire or a syringe with warm water. Make sure there are no food or ice residues in the tube.