The situation when a two-chamber refrigerator suddenly stops freezing always takes you by surprise, threatening damage to a large supply of food. The owner begins to panic, not understanding why the compressor is humming, and there is room temperature inside the chamber. Most often, the problem lies in a violation of the circulation of the refrigerant, a malfunction of the thermostat, or a banal blockage of the water drainage system.
Modern units, be it Indesit, Atlant or Samsung, are more complex than older models, but the principles of their operation are similar. If the ice in the freezer is melting, but the refrigerator compartment is warm, this is a signal of a system failure. It is important not to ignore the first symptoms, such as a long operating time of the motor or the absence of a characteristic click when turned off.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of the cooling process, list typical breakdowns and explain in which cases you can handle it yourself, and when it is better to call a specialist. Understanding the structure of your equipment will help you avoid costly repairs in the future.
The principle of operation of a two-chamber cooling system
Double-chamber models differ from single-chamber models in that the evaporator is located only in the freezer compartment. Cooling of the main chamber occurs due to natural or forced circulation of cold air through a special channel. If this process is disrupted, the cold stops flowing to the lower part of the unit.
The key element here is No Frost system or static cooling. In models with fully automatic defrosting, a fan moves air around the circuit, blowing food across the food. If the fan stops or the supply channel becomes clogged, the temperature in the refrigerator compartment inevitably rises.
The thermostat or electronic control module controls the temperature. When the sensor detects an excess of the norm, it should start the compressor. However, if the sensor itself is “lying” or is faulty, the start command may not be received, even if it is already warm inside.
It is important to understand the difference between the operating modes. Some models use one compressor for two chambers, others use two independent circuits. If you have a two-compressor unit and only one chamber does not freeze, the problem is localized in this circuit.
Checking the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the most common reasons why the refrigerator works, but does not freeze, is a faulty thermostat. This device is responsible for turning the motor on and off depending on the temperature inside the chambers. If its contacts have oxidized or the bellows has lost its seal, the circuit does not close.
In modern models, instead of a mechanical regulator, there are electronic ones. temperature sensors. They transmit data to the control module. The failure of even one sensor can cause the system to “think” that the cold is sufficient and does not start cooling.
⚠️ Attention: Before replacing any electrical components, be sure to unplug the refrigerator! Working with live electrical wiring is life-threatening.
To diagnose a mechanical thermostat, you can temporarily close its contacts. If after this procedure the compressor starts working and cold appears, then the regulator requires replacement. In electronic systems, you will need a multimeter to test the resistance of the sensor.
Do not ignore the condition of the capillary tube of the thermostat. If it is accidentally pinched or damaged during installation, the device will not be able to correctly read the evaporator temperature.
Problems with the compressor and start relay
The heart of any refrigerator is compressor. If it doesn't start, hums but doesn't power, or turns off after a few seconds, the problem may be with the start relay or the motor itself. The relay is responsible for starting the engine and protecting against overloads.
It often happens that the compressor winding burns out or an interturn short circuit occurs. In this case, the unit may hum, trying to start, but no cold is produced. This can be determined by the characteristic sound and strong heating of the motor housing.
The starting relay is a consumable item. Over time, its contacts burn out, and it stops supplying the required impulse to the winding. Replacing the relay is an inexpensive procedure and is often done independently if you have basic skills.
If the compressor runs constantly without turning off, but there is no cold, this may indicate a loss of performance of the piston group. The motor is humming, freon is circulating, but the pressure is not enough for effective heat exchange.
☑️ Compressor diagnostics
Freon leak and capillary tube clogged
Refrigerant (freon) is the working fluid that transfers heat. If a microcrack has formed in the system, the gas gradually evaporates. First, the refrigerator begins to freeze worse, working longer, and then completely stops cooling.
Signs of a leak:
- ❄️ The condenser (grid at the back) remains cold or warm only partially.
- 🔇 The compressor works almost non-stop.
- 💧 The appearance of swelling on the walls of the evaporator (rare, but it happens).
- 🌡️ Lack of cold when the engine is running.
Clogged capillary tube is the second common problem. Oil circulates in the system, which over time can thicken or mix with wear debris, forming a plug. Freon cannot pass through the narrow section of the tube, and circulation stops.
To eliminate these faults, you need to call a technician with a vacuum pump and a supply of freon. It is impossible to refill the system yourself or clean the capillary without special equipment.
⚠️ Attention: Freon is odorless and colorless. It is extremely difficult to detect a leak visually; the use of a leak detector or a soap solution is required.
Malfunctions of the defrosting system (No Frost)
In refrigerators with a system No Frost the serviceability of the defrosting system is critically important. If the evaporator heating element, defrost timer or defrost sensor fails, the evaporator becomes covered with a “coat” of ice. This ice blocks the air supply channels to the refrigerator compartment.
As a result, it may be cold in the freezer, but the wind is not blowing, and it is warm in the upper compartment. Users often notice that the refrigerator begins to freeze worse after defrosting has not been carried out for a long time.
The malfunction may lie in a burnt-out heating element. You can check it with a multimeter for an open circuit. Also, the defrost sensor often fails, which does not give the command to turn on the heater.
What happens if you ignore ice in the No Frost system?
An ice plug can damage the fan, and when water melts, it will begin to flow inside the housing, causing corrosion and a short circuit.
Regular preventive maintenance defrosting (at least once a year) helps extend the life of the defrost system and avoid costly repairs of fans and heating elements.
The influence of seals and chamber tightness
A tight fit of the door is the key to effective operation. If rubber seal is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The compressor does not have time to compensate for heat loss.
You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter. If it pulls out too easily or with different forces in different places, the seal requires replacement or adjustment.
Often the problem is solved by simply washing the seal with warm water and soap to remove grease and sticky residue. In some cases, silicone lubrication helps to restore the elasticity of the rubber.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| It buzzes, but does not freeze | Freon leak, blockage | High (needs a technician) |
| Does not turn on at all | No power, compressor burned out | Medium/High |
| Freezes, but slightly | Leaky door, sensor | Low |
| Ice in the chamber No Frost | Defrost system failure | Average |
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator freeze but does not turn off?
This may indicate a freon leak, compressor wear or incorrect installation of the thermostat. The unit is trying to gain temperature, but cannot due to a lack of refrigerant or heat loss.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it has stopped freezing?
Short-term - yes, but you cannot store food in it. Long-term operation in emergency mode (especially if there is a leak or blockage) can lead to complete combustion of the compressor, which will make repairs economically unfeasible.
How often do you need to defrost a No Frost refrigerator?
The system No Frost implies automatic defrosting, but once every 6-12 months It is recommended to completely turn off the unit, defrost and wash it for hygiene and check the condition of the seals.
Why is it warm in the refrigerator compartment, but normal in the freezer?
Most often this is a problem with the fan (in the No Frost system) or the air supply channel is clogged with ice. It is also possible that the damper that regulates the flow of cold air fails.
Prevention and proper care
How to avoid situations when the refrigerator stops freezing, it is important to follow the operating instructions. Do not place hot food inside, as this puts excess stress on the compressor and contributes to the formation of ice.
Regularly check the condition of the seals and clean the back of the condenser from dust. A dust “roll” on the grill impairs heat transfer, causing the motor to wear out.
Maintaining the temperature in the room is also important. If the refrigerator is standing next to the battery or in direct sun, its performance drops, and it may stop cooling even if it is working properly.