The situation when the upper chamber of the refrigerator Atlant stops cooling food, while the freezing section continues to work properly, is one one of the most common complaints from owners of this equipment. This behavior of the unit is often misleading: the compressor seems to be humming, the light inside is on, but the milk in the upper compartment is sour. This indicates a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system, which requires immediate intervention.
In most cases, the problem lies not in a complete breakdown of the unit, but in the failure of a specific unit responsible for the distribution of cold. This could be a clogged capillary tube, a malfunction of the defrost sensor, or a freon leak that has not yet affected the evaporator area in the freezer. Understanding how your model works Atlant will help you quickly diagnose the cause.
Ignoring symptoms can lead to complete damage to the products and more expensive repairs in the future. If you notice that the temperature difference between the chambers has become critical, it is necessary to conduct an initial diagnosis. In this article, we will analyze in detail the main reasons why Atlant refrigerator does not freeze the upper chamber, and consider methods for eliminating them.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any diagnostic work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Working with electrical components and refrigerant requires compliance with safety measures.
The operating principle of Atlant two-chamber refrigerators
To understand why a temperature imbalance occurs, you need to understand the structure of the unit. In classic models Atlant with one compressor, the cold is generated in the freezer compartment and then, thanks to natural or forced convection, enters the refrigeration compartment. If there is cold in the freezer, it means that the compressor starts and the refrigerant circulates, but it does not reach the upper chamber in the required volume.
In systems No Frost a fan and a damper system are responsible for the distribution of air flows. If the fan stops or the damper gets stuck closed, cold air remains trapped in the freezer. In models with a drip system (crying evaporator), the problem is often associated with freezing of the cold supply channel or malfunction of the thermostat.
It is important to consider that modern models are equipped with electronic control, where the temperature is monitored by sensors. If one of the sensors transmits incorrect data to the control board, the controller may mistakenly believe that the upper chamber is cold enough and not turn on the active cooling mode.
Malfunctions of the defrosting system (for No Frost models)
One of the most common reasons why Atlant stops freezing in the upper compartment when the freezer is running is a failure in the system automatic defrosting. In such refrigerators, frost constantly builds up on the evaporator, which must periodically thaw. If this process is disrupted, the ice coat grows and blocks the channels through which cold air is supplied to the fridge compartment.
Visually, this can be manifested by the fact that the back wall of the freezer is covered with a thick layer of ice, and the fan hums, but does not drive air through. Over time, ice blocks the fan blades completely and circulation stops. As a result, the cold in the freezer is maintained due to static cooling, and it simply does not enter the upper chamber.
The main elements that fail in the defrost system:
- 🔥 Defrost heating element —a heating element that melts the ice on the evaporator; when it burns out, the ice does not melt.
- 💧 Defrost sensor — controls the temperature of the evaporator; if it “lies”, the control board does not give a command to turn on the heating.
- ⏱️ Timer or control board - a device that switches the “cooling” and “defrosting” modes; a failure in the electronics stops the cycle.
Diagnostics often require partial disassembly of the freezer and removal of the back panel to get to the evaporator. If you find a solid piece of ice blocking the air ducts, it means the defrosting system is not working. In this case, you need to ring the heating element and sensors with a multimeter.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Problems with the compressor and refrigerant
Although the freezer is working, problems with the compressor or refrigerant cannot be ruled out. In dual-circuit systems or with a certain pipeline configuration, freon leakage can occur in stages. First, the pressure drops in the refrigeration chamber circuit, which is why the refrigerant stops boiling there, and in the freezer the process still continues, although less efficiently.
Another common situation is compressor malfunction. It can start, hum, but not develop enough power to pump freon through both circuits. This often happens when the windings are shorted between turns or due to mechanical wear of the valves. In this case, the motor runs “idle”, creating the appearance of operation, but does not produce cold.
It is also worth mentioning the blockage of the capillary tube. There are very narrow areas in the freon circulation system. If moisture or debris gets into the circuit (due to poor-quality previous repairs), an ice plug or blockage will form. Freon cannot pass further than the freezer, and the upper chamber remains warm.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Characteristic sign |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is silent | The motor or starter is burned out relay | Click and silence, or buzzing for 5-10 seconds and a click |
| Humming constantly | Freon leak or blockage | Condenser (grid at the back) is barely warm or cold |
| It freezes weakly | A drop in compressor performance | Ice is melting in the freezer, it’s warm in the refrigerator compartment |
⚠️ Attention: Self-filling the refrigerator with freon is prohibited without a license and special equipment. An attempt to add gas “by eye” will lead to the final failure of the compressor.
Is it possible to restore the compressor yourself?
Replacing the start relay is a simple operation accessible to a beginner. However, if the problem is in the mechanical part of the compressor (valves, piston group), then it is impossible to repair it at home. It is necessary to replace the entire unit with a similar one in power and dimensions.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
In mechanical models Atlant the thermostat is responsible for turning the compressor on and off. This is a device with a bellows tube that responds to changes in temperature. If the thermostat fails and “opens” ahead of time, the compressor will turn off without having time to cool the upper chamber to the desired temperature, although the cold in the freezer will still remain due to inertia.
In refrigerators with electronic control, the role of a thermostat is performed by air temperature sensors. There may be several of them: one in the freezer, another in the refrigerator, the third on the evaporator. If the upper chamber sensor “lies” and shows that it is +2°C, although in fact it is +10°C, the control board will not give a command for cooling.
Often the problem is solved by replacing the sensor, but sometimes the problem is oxidized contacts in the wiring connectors. Moisture that gets inside the case during defrosting can oxidize the terminals, which is why the signal from the sensor does not reach the board. Visual inspection of wiring harnesses often helps to find traces of corrosion.
Checking the thermostat in mechanical models is simple: you need to close its contacts directly. If after this procedure the compressor starts and the refrigerator starts to freeze, it means that the regulator is faulty and requires replacement. However, remember that this is a temporary measure and the refrigerator will work without interruption until you install a new part.
Clogging of the capillary tube and filter-drier
The capillary tube is the “artery” of the refrigeration system through which the refrigerant moves under high pressure. Its diameter is extremely small (less than 1 mm), so it is very sensitive to any contamination. If there is moisture in the system, it freezes at the narrowest point, forming an ice plug. This phenomenon is called “hydraulic blockage.”
Oil blockage is also possible when oil breakdown products clog the filter drier. As a result, the pressure at the entrance to the capillary increases, and at the outlet it decreases. Freon stops circulating in full. A characteristic sign of a blockage is that the condenser (grid on the back wall) remains cold or warm only at the beginning, and the compressor runs very hot.
Removing a blockage at home is almost impossible. Required:
- 🛠️ Purge of the circuit nitrogen under high pressure to remove the plug.
- 🔄 Replacing the filter-drier is a mandatory procedure for any opening of the circuit.
- 💨 Evacuating the system —removing moisture and air before charging with freon.
Attempts to break through the blockage by frequently turning the refrigerator on and off can lead to overheating and jamming of the compressor. If you suspect a blockage (the refrigerator hums, but does not freeze, and the compressor tubes have different temperatures), it is better to call a specialist immediately.
Tightness failure and freon leakage
Refrigerant leakage is perhaps the most unpleasant malfunction. Freon can escape through microcracks in sealed tubes that form due to corrosion, or through factory soldering areas. In double-circuit systems, leakage often occurs precisely in the refrigeration chamber circuit, since the tubes there are mounted into the walls of the housing and are subject to vibration.
When there is a leak, the amount of freon in the system decreases. The compressor tries to compensate for the shortage by working non-stop. At first, there is not enough cold in the warmest zone - the upper chamber. The freezer, which has a lower boiling point of freon, still keeps the cold, but gradually it will begin to defrost.
How to determine a leak without instruments? Pay attention to the following signs:
- The compressor operates around the clock without shutdown cycles.
- The condenser grille at the rear remains cold or warm unevenly.
- Oil stains may be visible at the leak site (if it is external), as freon circulates along with oil.
If the leak occurs in the foamed part of the housing (inside the walls), repairs may not be economically feasible. The technician may suggest installing an external evaporator (“crying” dropper inside the chamber), which will solve the cooling problem, but will change the appearance and usable volume of the refrigerator.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to look for a leak with an open fire! Freon, when in contact with fire, releases phosgene, a poisonous gas. To search, use a soap solution or an electronic leak detector.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the Atlant refrigerator take a long time to reach the temperature after defrosting?
After complete defrosting (especially if you washed the refrigerator) in the walls and the food retains a lot of heat. The compressor takes time (from 2 to 6 hours) to freeze the chamber to the specified values. If the temperature does not return to normal within 24 hours, the door seal may be damaged or there is a malfunction in the system.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not freeze?
For a short time - yes, if you store food there that does not require extreme cold. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which may overheat while trying to reach an unattainable temperature. In addition, bacteria will quickly multiply in a warm chamber.
How to check if the fan is working in the No Frost system?
Open the freezer door. In most models Atlant when the door is opened, the fan should stop (the limit switch is activated). If you do not hear a change in noise or do not feel the air flow when the door is closed (check if the air duct is clogged with ice), the fan may be faulty or frozen.
What to do if ice freezes in the refrigerator compartment, but there is no cold?
This is a sure sign that the defrost system is not working and ice has blocked the air circulation channels. The refrigerator must be completely defrosted (at least 24 hours with the doors open). If, after switching on, the problem recurs 1-2 weeks later, the heating element, sensor or timer must be replaced.