The situation when the refrigerator continues to work, the light inside is on, but the freezer has stopped performing its functions always takes you by surprise. You open the door, and instead of an ice crust there is soft ice cream or thawed meat. This is not just a household inconvenience, it is a direct threat to the safety of the products and your finances, because the contents will have to be thrown away.
There can be many reasons why The freezer is not freezing: from a banal overload of products to a complex failure of the compressor. Understanding the principles of operation of the refrigeration circuit will help you react faster and, perhaps, avoid costly repairs if the problem is solved by simple defrosting.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of breakdowns, symptoms of malfunctions and an action algorithm that will allow you to understand the scale of the disaster. Don’t rush to call a technician right away; sometimes diagnostics take less time than waiting for a specialist.
Primary diagnostics: checking the obvious
Before you panic and look for the service center number, you should exclude basic operating errors. Users often forget about the basic rules, the violation of which leads to the refrigerator stop holding the temperature.
First of all, check whether the rubber seal fits tightly. If there is a gap between the door and the body, warm air constantly flows inside, and the unit simply does not have time to freeze out the incoming heat. There should be no crumbs, ice or damage on the seal.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the rubber band has come off or is deformed, try to restore its shape by heating it with a hairdryer, but do not use an open flame or too hot air, otherwise the material will completely melt.
The second important point is the operating mode. If you have just loaded a large amount of warm food into the chamber, the compressor may have gone into protection or simply cannot cope with the volume of heat. In this case, temperature conditions will be restored after several hours of continuous operation.
- 🔌 Check whether the plug is firmly inserted into the socket and whether there is voltage in the network.
- ❄️ Make sure that the temperature regulator has not been accidentally moved to the position “Minimum” or “0.”
- 🚪 Assess whether the door is warped by a heavy shelf or a large number of products on the door itself.
It is also worth listening to the operation of the motor. If it hums smoothly, that's a good sign. If you hear clicks, an intermittent hum, or complete silence while the power indicator is on, the problem lies deeper.
Problems with defrosting and the No Frost system
Modern models that work on the system No Frost, have saved us from the need to break the ice manually, but have created a new group of faults. If cold air stops blowing in the freezer, although the compressor is working, most likely the air supply channel is clogged or the defrosting system is faulty.
In such units, the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic panel. Over time, a “fur coat” grows on it, which must be periodically melted by the heating element. If the heating element is burned out or the defrost sensor is stuck, ice blocks the ventilation holes. As a result, the fan moves air, but it does not enter the chamber.
To confirm this hypothesis, you need to completely defrost the refrigerator. Unplug it, open all doors and leave it for at least 24 hours. This time is necessary for the ice to melt even in hard-to-reach channels.
If, after complete defrosting, the refrigerator works like new, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returns, it means that an element of the defrosting system (heating element, timer or sensor) is faulty and requires replacement.
- 🧊 An ice plug in the channel is a common reason for the lack of cold in the upper or lower departments.
- 🔊 Loud noise or crackling of the fan may indicate that the blades are touching ice.
- 💡 The emergency temperature indicator may light up immediately after switching on if the sensors are “fooled” by ice.
☑️ Algorithm defrosting
Refrigerant (freon) leak
One of the most common and unpleasant reasons why The freezer does not freezeis a refrigerant leak. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack appears in the tubes or evaporator, the gas gradually evaporates.
Symptoms of a leak often develop gradually. At first, you may notice that the refrigerator runs longer, turns on more often, and the food in the freezer has become softer. Then the compressor begins to work almost non-stop, trying to increase the temperature, but to no avail.
⚠️ Attention: Freon is odorless and colorless in household concentrations, so it is impossible to detect a leak by smell. Visually, you can only notice swelling of the refrigerator wall or oily spots under the unit where the tube is damaged.
It is impossible to independently find the location of the leak and solder the tube without special equipment (leak detector, vacuum pump, pressure gauge station). Moreover, you cannot simply “refill” the gas again - you first need to find and fix the hole, otherwise the money will be wasted.
Often leaks occur in the foamed part of the body (internal circuit) due to metal corrosion. In such cases, repairs may not be economically feasible, since they require opening the thermal insulation.
Why can’t you ignore the operation of the compressor without stopping?
Constant wear and tear on the motor leads to its overheating and eventual combustion of the windings. Replacing a compressor costs significantly more than fixing a leak at an early stage.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator. It is he who pumps freon through the system. If you hear the engine trying to start (clicking and humming), but immediately stalls, or it is silent even though the thermostat calls for cold, the problem is in the electrical or mechanical parts of the motor.
Often the culprit is starting relay. This is a small plastic block that fits over the compressor contacts. Inside it is a mechanism that starts the motor. Over time, the contacts burn out or the mechanism jams.
Replacing a relay is one of the simplest and cheapest procedures. You can buy a similar relay for your model refrigerator and replace it yourself by simply removing the old one and putting on a new one.
However, if the relay is working properly, and the compressor still does not start or operates with severe overheating (impossible to touch with your hand), an interturn fault may have occurred short circuit of the windings or mechanical jamming of the piston group. In this case, the compressor needs to be replaced, which is a complex and expensive repair.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| Clicks, but does not start | Start relay or compressor | Low / High |
| Humming constantly, no cold | Freon leak or clogged capillary | High |
| Works jerkily | Problems with wiring or thermostat | Medium |
| Motor housing gets very hot | Compressor wear | High |
Failure of the thermostat or sensors
The thermostat (in old models) or an electronic sensor (in new ones) is responsible for turning the compressor on and off. If this element “lies” and sends the wrong signal that the chamber is already cold enough, the compressor simply will not turn on.
In mechanical thermostats, the problem may be in the capillary tube, which has lost its tightness, or in the contact group. In electronic models, the sensor itself or the control board that incorrectly processes its readings may fail.
This can be diagnosed by temporarily closing the thermostat contacts (for experienced users) or replacing the sensor with a known good one. If after replacement the refrigerator starts working normally, the problem has been found.
Sometimes users themselves turn the thermostat knob, trying to “intensify” the cold, and bring the equipment to constant operation, which ultimately disables it. The optimal setting is usually in the middle position.
Clogged capillary tube
The capillary tube is a thin copper wire in which a sharp drop in freon pressure occurs, due to which it boils and absorbs heat. The diameter of its hole is extremely small, so even a microscopic piece of debris, moisture or paraffin (from compressor oil) can clog the system.
When clogged, freon does not circulate. The compressor is running, the condenser (grid at the back) may be only partially warm or cold, but the freezer is warm. A characteristic sign is the absence of the characteristic sound of gas flowing (gurgling) during operation.
To eliminate this malfunction, the technician will need:
- 🛠️ Blow through the system with nitrogen under high pressure.
- 🔄 Replace the filter drier, which retains moisture and garbage.
- 💨 Evacuate the system and charge a new portion of refrigerant.
This is a technically complex operation that requires professional equipment. At home, without a vacuum pump and scales for charging freon, it is impossible to carry out high-quality repairs.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to break through the blockage by knocking on the pipes with a hammer or heating them with a torch. You can damage the thin walls of the tubes or damage the compressor winding, turning a simple repair into a complete replacement of the unit.
Frequently asked questions questions (FAQ)
Why is it cold in the freezer, but the food does not freeze?
Most likely, the temperature in the chamber is higher than necessary for freezing (above -18°C). This can be caused by a freon leak when there is not enough pressure for deep cooling, or a faulty thermostat that shuts off the compressor early. Also check if the ventilation holes are not clogged with food.
Is it possible to use the refrigerator if it does not freeze, but works?
For a short time - yes, to store food in the main compartment (if it works). However, prolonged operation of the compressor without shutting off will lead to overheating and combustion. In addition, moisture may accumulate in the system, which will complicate future repairs. It is better to turn off the appliance before the technician arrives.
How long should the freezer cool down after defrosting?
After complete defrosting and turning on the empty refrigerator, it usually takes from 4 to 8 hours to reach operating temperature. It is recommended to load products no earlier than 2 hours after the cold has established inside, so as not to create a sharp thermal load.
Why is the back wall of the freezer covered with ice, but there is no cold?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the No Frost system (the defrost heating element or sensor has burned out) or a freon leak. In the event of a leak, freon can freeze where it exits the tube, creating local ice, but not circulating throughout the entire system. Diagnostics by a technician is required.