The situation when the light is on in the main chamber and the light bulb is on, the food is being cooled, and there is warmth in the freezer, causes bewilderment and anxiety for any owner of household appliances. This is a classic symptom that indicates that the cooling system is partially functioning, but the refrigerant circulation cycle is disrupted precisely in the area where cold is supplied to the lower (or upper) compartment. Compressor it may hum, creating the illusion of normal operation, but without the proper pressure or volume of gas, effective freezing becomes impossible.
It is important to understand that modern refrigerators, be it Indesit, LG or Atlant, are designed on the principle of a single circuit or a complex system with several evaporators. If one of the nodes fails, this does not always stop the unit completely, but it critically changes the temperature regime. Ignoring the problem at an early stage often leads to complete damage to inventory and costly repairs compressor-condensing unit.
Before calling a technician, it is necessary to carry out an initial diagnosis to eliminate common operating errors. Sometimes the reason lies not in a breakdown, but in violation of product placement rules or malfunctions of electronics. However, if simple methods do not help, we are talking about a technical malfunction that requires the intervention of a specialist and the use of professional equipment.
The main reasons for the lack of cold in the freezer compartment
The most common reason why the chamber stops freezing when the main compartment is working is refrigerant leak. Freon is the working fluid of the system, and if its quantity drops below a critical level, the pressure is not enough to “push” the gas through the capillary tube into the freezer evaporator. As a result, the cold has time to be absorbed only in the first compartment, where the gas initially enters.
The second common culprit is clogging of the capillary tube. In the oil and freon circulation system, plugs may form from oil breakdown products or moisture that has turned into ice. This creates a mechanical obstruction that blocks the flow of refrigerant. In this case, the compressor works with increased load, trying to push gas, but the cooling efficiency drops to zero.
The third group of problems is associated with compressor malfunction. If the unit's windings are burned out or the piston group is mechanically worn, it may start, hum, but not create the required pressure. It is also worth mentioning problems with thermostat or the electronic control module, which may simply “not see” the need to turn on the deep-freeze mode.
It is worth noting that in refrigerators with a system No Frost add their own specific problems, such as failure of the fan or defrost heating element, which also leads to a stop in the circulation of cold air.
Diagnostics of compressor and start relay faults
When the refrigerator is running but not freezing, the first thing you should do is listen to the sound of the running motor. If you hear a characteristic hum, which ends abruptly with a click, followed by a pause and an attempt to start again, this is a sure sign of a malfunction start-protective relay or problems with the compressor itself. The relay may not supply a spark to start, or the motor cannot overcome the inertia.
If the compressor runs continuously without turning off for hours, and the temperature in the freezer still does not drop below -5...-7 degrees, this indicates a loss of performance. Sealed unit it may have lost some freon through microcracks, or its valves are worn out. In this case, it simply “drives” the gas in a circle, without creating the required pressure difference.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell burning or see that the compressor housing (the black “barrel” at the back) is hot to such an extent that it is impossible to touch it, immediately unplug the device. Further operation may lead to a fire or final failure of the unit.
To check the relay, it is often necessary to dismantle it and “test” the contacts with a multimeter. However, even if the relay is working properly, the problem may lie in an interturn short circuit in the motor windings, which requires replacement of the entire compressor. Replacing this unit yourself is impossible without a vacuum pump and a filling station.
How to check the start relay yourself?
Remove the relay from the compressor contacts (after turning off the refrigerator). Shake it: if you hear a noticeable knocking or rattling noise inside, the core or contacts are most likely broken. Also visually inspect the contacts for carbon deposits. However, only checking the resistance with a resistance tester will give an accurate diagnosis.
Refrigerant problems: leaks and system blockages
Freon leakage is the “silent killer” of your refrigerator’s performance. Gas can escape through corrosion of tubes in the foamed part of the housing, through soldering points or through the evaporator. Unlike a blockage, when there is a leak, the compressor often works quietly and without overheating, since it has nothing to pump. Pressure in the system falls and the cooling capacity disappears.
Clogged capillary tube is often accompanied by unusual behavior of the unit. For example, the refrigerator may freeze very cold and then suddenly stop, or the condenser (the grill at the back) will only be half hot. This happens because the plug blocks the free flow of the substance, and the system operates in emergency mode.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Characteristic symptom |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is hot, clicking | Relay or motor malfunction | Start attempts every 2-3 minutes |
| Quiet operation, no cold | Freon leak | Condenser is cold or barely warm |
| Ice only at the entrance to the chamber | Clogged capillary tube | Uneven heating of the rear grille |
| Freezer in snow, no cold | Defrost malfunction (No Frost) | Increase in ice slush on the walls |
To eliminate these problems, you need to call a technician who will perform nitrogen pressure testing to find leaks, clean the system, or completely refill it with replacing the filter-drier. Independent refilling of freon without evacuation of the system will lead to to the rapid failure of the new compressor due to the presence of moisture and air.
Faults in the No Frost and defrost system
In refrigerators with a system No Frost circulation of cold air is carried out forcibly using a fan. If you hear the compressor running but the freezer is warm, it may have stopped. Without airflow, the evaporator freezes locally, and air does not enter the chamber. fan. Without airflow, the evaporator freezes locally, and air does not enter the chamber.
Another common problem is a malfunction of the defrost system. It consists of a heating element, a timer (or electronic module) and a defrost sensor. If one of these elements breaks, a “coat” of ice grows on the evaporator, which tightly blocks the air channels. As a result, the cold physically cannot enter the chamber.
- ❄️ The defrost heating element has burned out: The ice does not melt, the channels become clogged, the fan hums, but no air flows.
- 🕰️ The timer is faulty: the refrigerator does not go into defrost mode, working only to cool until completely frozen.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor: "lies" to the control module, prematurely turning off the heating or not turning it on at all.
You can check the system by defrosting the refrigerator manually for 10-12 hours (completely!). If, after turning it on, it starts to freeze, but after a couple of days the problem returns, it means that the defrosting system is not working and requires replacing the elements.
Failures in the operation of electronics and thermostats
Modern refrigerators are controlled by electronics that receive signals from many sensors. If thermostat (in mechanical models) or the temperature sensor (in electronic ones) fails, it may send an incorrect signal that the chamber is already cold enough. As a result, the compressor does not turn on or works too little.
In models with electronic control, the problem of contact oxidation or failure of the control moduleitself is often encountered. The board may “glitch” without supplying voltage to the compressor or fan. Sometimes a simple restart helps: disconnecting from the network for 15-20 minutes. If, after turning on, the system again behaves inappropriately, diagnostics of the board is required.
It is also worth checking the integrity of the sealing rubber on the freezer door. If the rubber has dried out or the door is warped, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The temperature sensor will record the heat and force the compressor to work without interruption, but due to the constant flow of heat, the required temperature will not be established.
What you can do yourself before the technician arrives
Before filing a repair request, follow a number of simple steps that will help more accurately diagnose the problem or even solve it if it is not related to a breakdown. This will save your time and money by eliminating the need to call a technician to eliminate a false alarm.
First, check whether the door closes tightly. Do a test with a sheet of paper: hold it with a door and try to pull it out. If the sheet comes out too easily, the seal is not sealing properly. Also make sure that the products do not block the exit of cold air (in No Frost systems).
☑️ Primary diagnostic checklist
The most effective action is complete defrosting. Unplug the refrigerator, open the doors and leave it for at least a day (preferably two). This will remove ice plugs in the channels and evaporator. If the freezer started working after turning it on, the problem was in the defrost system or a blockage. If not, repair is required.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to open sealed connections, pierce tubes or change the compressor yourself without the appropriate qualifications and tools. This is not only dangerous, but is also guaranteed to deprive you of the right to warranty service if it is still valid.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator work non-stop, but does not freeze?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or a clogged system. The compressor tries to compensate for the lack of cold by working non-stop, but due to the lack of working fluid or circulation, the efficiency is zero. The compressor may also wear out.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the chamber does not freeze?
For a short time - yes, if the main chamber is working. However, long-term use (weeks) will cause the compressor to overheat and burn out as it runs continuously. In addition, humidity in the main chamber may increase and food may begin to deteriorate.
How much does it cost to repair if the freezer is no longer cold?
The price depends on the breakdown. Refilling with freon and finding the leak usually costs less than replacing the compressor. The exact amount can only be given after diagnosis by a technician on site, since the cost consists of work and spare parts.
How to understand that the compressor has burned out?
If, when you turn it on, a loud click is heard, the hum lasts 5-10 seconds and a click follows again (protection), and the motor housing itself is very hot - there is a high probability of a malfunction compressor or its start relay.