The situation when it is warm in fridge compartment and the freezer compartment continues to operate as normal is one of the most common problems with household appliances. Users are often scared, thinking that the unit has completely failed, but in most cases the failure is local. It is important to understand that in two-compressor models these systems operate independently, whereas in single-compressor models they are connected by a common circuit, and disruption of the refrigerant circulation can have such a specific effect.
The first thing to do when a malfunction is detected is to carry out a primary one. diagnosis. Listen to the engine: does it hum constantly, does it turn on intermittently, or is it silent? Check the tightness of the rubber seals, as even a microscopic gap can upset the temperature balance. If the door closes hermetically, and the temperature in the upper compartment remains at +10...+15°C, the problem lies deeper than just a bad seal.
You should not immediately call a technician if you do not have technical skills, but a basic understanding of the processes will help save time. Modern No Frost systems and static cooling have different vulnerabilities, so the methods for finding a defect will differ. In this article we will look at the main scenarios, why the refrigerator does not freeze, and how to localize the fault before a specialist arrives.
Fundamental differences between cooling systems
To understand the nature of the breakdown, it is necessary to distinguish between the types of construction of your unit. In older models and budget options, it is often used drip systemwhere cold air from the freezer naturally falls down. If such a system refrigerator compartment stops cooling, this often indicates a circulation problem or a refrigerant leak.
Systems No Frost are more complicated: a fan works here, which forcibly drives cold air through special channels. If you hear the hum of the fan, but there is no cold, the air ducts may be clogged or the fan itself may have failed. In such models, the problem may be related to the defrost system, when the evaporator becomes overgrown with ice and blocks the access of cold. fan. In such models, the problem may be related to the defrost system, when the evaporator becomes overgrown with ice and blocks the access of cold.
It is worth mentioning separately the two-compressor models, where each compartment is responsible for its own motor. If you have just such a device, then the phrase “the freezer freezes, but the refrigerator does not” means a breakdown of one of the compressors or a violation in the circuit of the refrigeration chamber, while the freezer is working. This greatly simplifies diagnostics, since the systems are completely independent.
⚠️ Attention: In models with one compressor and two chambers, the refrigerant passes first through the freezer compartment and then through the refrigerator. If there is not enough freon, there is not enough of it for the second circuit, so the freezer works, but the upper compartment does not.
Freon leakage as the main cause of the malfunction
The most common reason that the refrigerator has stopped freezingis a banal refrigerant leak. Freon is a working fluid that transfers heat. If a microcrack has formed in the circuit (often in the foamed part of the housing or at the joints of the tubes), the gas gradually evaporates. At first, there is not enough of it for the farthest section of the circuit - the refrigerator compartment, and the freezer still maintains the temperature due to the residual pressure.
Symptoms of a leak do not appear immediately. First, the unit begins to work longer, trying to gain temperature, then the pauses between starts increase. Ultimately, the motor may run continuously, but refrigerator compartment will remain warm. It is almost impossible to detect a leak visually, since freon is colorless and odorless.
Repair in this case requires the intervention of a professional. It is necessary to find the location of the damage, solder it and recharge the system refrigerant. Independent attempts to “pump up” the gas without eliminating the leak will only give a temporary effect for a couple of weeks.
- 🔍 The compressor works without stopping, but does not turn off.
- ❄️ The temperature in the freezer is normal, and at the top it is room temperature.
- 🔊 The condenser grille at the back remains cold or barely warm.
- 💨 You can't hear the characteristic gurgling or hissing during operation.
It is important to note that prolonged operation with a freon leak can lead to combustion of the compressor, since oil circulates along with the gas and lubricates the parts. If the refrigerator is not freezing it has been several days, it is better to turn it off before the technician arrives.
Problems with the defrosting system in No Frost
In units with a system No Frost a common cause of lack of cold the defrost system malfunctions in the main chamber. A layer of ice is building up on the evaporator, which is located behind the back panel of the freezer. The fan cannot break through this ice plug, and cold air simply does not enter the upper compartment.
Several elements are responsible for the defrosting process: Defrost heating element, a defrost thermostat and a timer (or electronic module). If any of these components fail, the ice does not melt, but accumulates. This can be seen visually if you remove the back panel in the freezer - the evaporator will be completely or partially covered with ice.
Often users try to defrost the refrigerator manually by turning it off for a day. This does help temporarily restore operation as the ice melts and the air begins to circulate again. However, if the cause is a burnt Heating element or sensor, the problem will return 1-2 weeks after turning it on again.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Diagnostics of these elements requires a multimeter. It is necessary to “ring” the circuit for a break. If the heating element is intact, check the thermostat, which should close the circuit at a certain temperature. In modern models, electronic moduleis responsible for everything, which may mistakenly not give the defrost command.
Clogged capillary tube and compressor operation
Another technical reason why the refrigerator does not freeze well in the upper compartment - this is a clogged capillary tube. Inside the thin copper tube through which freon moves, a plug may form from oil oxidation products or debris. This disrupts the circulation of the refrigerant: it does not reach the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment.
Signs of a blockage are similar to a leak: the compressor works, the freezer is cold, but the refrigerator is warm. However, there is a difference: the condenser grille at the back may only be hot at the beginning or end, and not along its entire length. Also, when the unit is operating, you may hear uncharacteristic bubbling or a complete absence of sounds of gas movement.
To remove blockages, technicians use special presses to pump the system or replace the filter-drier, which is often where dirt accumulates. In difficult cases, complete flushing of the circuit is required, which is a labor-intensive procedure.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Sound character | Condenser temperature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heat at the top, cold at the bottom | Freon leak | Silence or occasional gurgling | Cold or barely warm |
| No cold, ice in the freezer | Capillary clogged | Burbling, gurgling | Partially hot |
| Uneven cold | Fan malfunction | Humming, crackling or silence | Normal |
| Compressor does not turn on | Start relay | Clicks when trying to start | Cold |
What is a filter drier?
This is a small metal cylinder in the refrigerator circuit that traps moisture and debris. It is this that often gets clogged first, causing the system to clog.
If you do not have experience working with copper pipes and soldering, it is strictly not recommended to get into the system yourself. You can permanently damage the tubes or break the seal, which will increase the cost of repairs.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and sensors
In some cases, the hardware is fine, but the problem lies in the “brains” - the temperature control system. If thermostat (the thermostat) has failed, it may not signal the compressor to turn on when the temperature in the chamber has risen. Or vice versa, keep the motor on constantly, but due to a sensor error, the cold will not be distributed correctly.
In models with electronic control, temperature sensors (thermistors) are responsible for the temperature. They are located at different points: in the evaporator, in the refrigerator compartment, in the freezer. If the sensor in the “warm” zone lies and shows that there is -5°C, although in fact it is +15°C, the compressor will not turn on for cooling.
You can check the mechanical thermostat by closing its contacts directly. If the refrigerator starts to freeze after this, then the problem is in the thermostat. It is more difficult with electronic sensors: their resistance changes depending on the temperature, and this can only be checked with a multimeter, comparing the readings with the table for a specific model.
- 🌡️ The sensor could be oxidized by moisture.
- 🔌 The thermostat contacts could burn out.
- ⚙️ The electronic module could have a program malfunction.
- 🧊 Ice could block the capillary of the sensor.
⚠️ Attention: Before replacing the thermostat or sensors, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Working with live electrical components is life-threatening!
It often happens that the problem is solved by simply replacing a cheap sensor, the cost of which is not comparable to the price of the compressor. Therefore, competent diagnostics begins with checking the electrical part.
Mechanical damage and the human factor
You should not discount simple things. Sometimes the refrigerator does not freeze due to the fact that the door is not completely closed. This may be caused by misalignment of the hinges, wear of the seal, or simply a foreign object (for example, the edge of a bag) that interferes with a tight fit.
Incorrect installation may also be the cause. If the unit is too close to the wall or heating devices, heat transfer is disrupted. The compressor overheats and goes into protection mode, stopping pumping freon. In such cases, the freezer, which has a smaller volume, still keeps the cold, and the large upper compartment heats up quickly.
Check that the food outlets are not blocking the air duct outlets. In systems No Frost cold air must circulate freely. If you tightly pack the shelf at the back wall, the circulation will stop and the temperature will level out to room temperature.
Regular maintenance, cleaning the drainage holes and checking the seals will help avoid many problems. If simple methods do not help, then serious repairs are required with diagnostics of pressure in the system.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it does not freeze in the upper compartment?
Short-term operation is possible, but undesirable. If the cause is a freon leak, the compressor will work hard, trying to gain temperature, which will lead to overheating and eventual combustion. It is better to turn off the device until the malfunction is eliminated.
How long does it take to defrost the refrigerator when icing occurs?
For complete melting of the ice in the system No Frost and evaporation of moisture from hard-to-reach places, it takes from 12 to 24 hours. Simply turning it off for an hour is not enough - residual moisture can freeze again and block the channels.
Why, after defrosting, did the refrigerator stop freezing again after a week?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system (the heating element, timer or sensor burned out). Defrosting removes the effect (ice), but not the cause (faulty element). The defective part needs to be replaced.
Is it possible to fill the refrigerator with freon yourself?
Technically it is possible if you have the equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauges, scales), but without searching for leaks it is pointless. Freon will escape through the crack again. In addition, different models require a strictly specific type and amount of refrigerant.
Does the compressor hum louder when there is a freon leak?
Not necessarily louder, but the nature of the sound changes. It can work continuously without shutting down. In some cases, with a strong leak, you can hear the whistling sound of escaping gas, but most often the process takes place silently.