The situation when the main chamber is warm, but the freezer is working normally, or vice versa, is familiar to many owners of household appliances. Temperature violation is not just discomfort, it is a risk of food spoilage and loss of budget. Often, users notice the problem too late, when puddles already appear on the shelves, and the food loses its properties.
There can be many reasons for this behavior of the unit: from a banal overload of products to a serious one. refrigerant leaks. Understanding the principles of operation of the refrigeration circuit will help you quickly navigate the situation and make the right decision - call a technician or try to fix the problem yourself.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of the processes that lead to uneven cooling. We will look at typical symptoms of breakdown various components and tell you what to look for first when diagnosing.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a loud bang or smell a burning smell before the refrigerator stops freezing, immediately unplug the appliance. Further operation may lead to a fire in the wiring.
The principle of operation of the refrigeration circuit and the distribution of cold
To understand why the refrigerator itself does not freeze, you need to briefly remember how the refrigerant circulates. In modern models with the system No Frost cold is produced in an evaporator hidden behind the back wall of the freezer. Then the fan drives this cold air through special channels into the refrigerator compartment.
If you have a drip system, then the evaporator is located directly in the rear wall of the refrigerator compartment. In this case air circulation occurs naturally, without forced injection. Malfunction of any element of this chain - from the compressor to the damper - leads to an imbalance of temperatures.
It is important to understand that the compressor operates cyclically. It turns on, builds up pressure, the freon boils and takes away heat, then turns off. If the cycle goes wrong, temperature sensor it may not receive the correct signals, and the motor either works without stopping or does not turn on at all.
How does a two-compressor system work?
In models with two compressors, each circuit operates independently. If one chamber does not freeze, the problem is localized precisely in its circuit (compressor, thermostat or leak), and the second compressor can work properly.
Differences in design also determine the nature of the malfunctions. In systems No Frost most often the culprit is freezing of the evaporator or a broken fan, while in drip systems the tightness of the circuit and the operation of the thermostat are critical.
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the most common reasons why the refrigerator stops freezing is the outlet The thermostat is faulty. This component is responsible for turning the compressor on and off depending on the temperature inside the chambers. If the contacts are oxidized or the bellows is deformed, start signal simply does not arrive.
In electronic models, air sensors are responsible for this function. They can “lie”, showing the controller that there is already “polar cold” inside, although in reality the food is already defrosting. Replacing such an element usually does not require complex equipment, but requires accurate diagnostics with a multimeter.
- ❄️ Signs of malfunction: the compressor does not turn on at all or, conversely, works continuously without turning off.
- 🔧 Diagnostics: it is necessary to “close” the thermostat contacts. If after this the refrigerator works, the problem is in the regulator.
- 📉 Consequences: ignoring the problem leads to damage to the motor-compressor due to overheating or defrosting of the entire contents.
It is worth noting that in some models Indesit or Atlant tube The thermostat may have lost contact with the evaporator. In this case, she does not feel a real change in temperature. By carefully adjusting the tube, you can temporarily restore operation before purchasing a new part.
If you find that the regulator clicks but does not start the motor, most likely its resource has been exhausted. This is a consumable item, and its replacement is a standard procedure for servicing aged equipment.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The heart of any refrigerator is the compressor. It is this that creates the pressure necessary for the circulation of freon. If you hear that the motor is trying to start, hums for a couple of seconds and clicks, but does not start, the problem most likely lies in the starting relay or the motor itself.
Start relay is a small plastic block that fits over the contacts of the compressor. Inside it there is a mechanism that breaks the starting winding circuit after start. If the relay is stuck or burnt out, the compressor cannot return to operating mode. This is one of the simplest and cheapest faults to repair.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| Beeps for 5-10 seconds, clicks, silence | Start relay or interturn short circuit | Low / High |
| Motor is hot, does not start | Compressor wedge or winding break | High (replacement) |
| Works constantly, no cold | Loss of piston group performance | High (replacement) |
| Strong vibration and noise | Destruction of the motor mount inside the casing | Average |
A more serious situation is the “wedge” of the compressor. This happens when the rubbing parts inside the motor jam due to lack of oil or mechanical wear. In this case, replacement of the compressor becomes the only way out, since it is not economically feasible to revive the old unit.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to hit the compressor with a hammer or keep it on for a long time in the hope that it will “diverge.” This can lead to final failure of the windings and a fire hazard.
You can check the serviceability of the windings using an ohmmeter. The resistance between the contacts must be in a certain range (usually from 10 to 30 Ohms for the working winding). If the device shows one (break) or zero (short circuit), the motor requires replacement.
Freon leakage and capillary tube blockage
If the compressor works properly, hums smoothly and does not turn off, but there is no cold in the chambers (or it is weak), then it is most likely refrigerant leak. Freon can escape through microcracks in sealed connections, through corrosion of the evaporator (especially in models with a sealed circuit) or due to mechanical damage during transportation.
Another common problem is a clogged capillary tube. Oil circulates in the system, which over time can thicken or mix with breakdown products, forming a plug. In this case, there is freon, but it cannot circulate along the circuit, and heat exchange does not occur.
☑️ Signs of a freon leak
Diagnose a leak difficult on your own. The technician uses a leak detector or paint method, and also checks the pressure in the system. If a blockage is detected, the system often has to be purged with nitrogen under high pressure, which requires special equipment.
It is important to understand that simply “add freon” is a half-measure. If there is a leak, the gas will come out again after a while. It is necessary to find the place of damage, seal it, evacuate the system and only then fill with new refrigerant strictly by weight.
Failure in the No Frost system and defrosting
In refrigerators with the system No Frost a common reason for the lack of cold is the freezing of the evaporator. Normally, the ice from the evaporator should be periodically thawed by the heater. If this process is disrupted, the ice coat grows, blocks the air supply channels, and the fan stops driving cold into the main chamber.
Three components are responsible for the defrosting process: a heating element (heater), a defrost sensor and a timer (or electronic control module). If it burns Defrost heating element, the ice does not melt. If the sensor is faulty, it can prematurely turn off the heating or prevent the compressor from turning on.
- 🧊 Symptom: the back wall of the freezer is covered with a thick layer of ice or “sludge.”
- 🔊 Symptom: the fan is humming, crackling or does not rotate due to frozen ice on the blades.
- ⏱ Solution: completely defrosting the refrigerator for 24 hours (with the doors open) often helps to temporarily solve the problem.
If after complete defrosting the refrigerator works like new, but after a week or two the story repeats itself, it means one of the elements of the defrosting system faulty It is necessary to check the heating element and sensor with a multimeter for a break.
It is also worth checking the damper that regulates the air flow between the chambers. In some models LG or Samsung the damper drive may get stuck in the closed position, which is why the cold simply does not get into the refrigerator compartment.
Violation of tightness and problems with seals
Sometimes the reason is simple - into the refrigerator Too much warm air comes in from the room. This happens if the rubber seal door is worn out, the door is warped, or it is simply not fully slammed shut. Heat constantly enters the chamber, and the unit does not have time to compensate for it.
You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter. If it is pulled out too easily without resistance, the seal does not fit tightly. In places where there is a loose fit, condensation often appears or a “fur coat” freezes.
In addition, frequent opening of the door or placing hot food inside creates excess load on the system. The compressor works hard, trying to cool a large volume of warm air, but due to the inertia of the process, the desired result is not achieved.
⚠️ Attention: If you have replaced the seal, but the door still does not fit, check the hinges. They could have weakened or become deformed under the weight of the food lying on the door.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to defrost the refrigerator when icing?
To completely defrost the ice in the system channels No Frost i the evaporator requires a minimum of 24 hours. It is not enough to simply turn off the device at night; the ice plug may remain inside, and the problem will return in a couple of days.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it does not freeze, but works?
It is strictly not recommended. Running the motor without turning it off (in an attempt to catch up with the temperature) will cause it to overheat and burn out the windings. In addition, bacteria quickly multiply in heat.
Why did the refrigerator start to freeze after defrosting, but after 3 days it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system (the heating element, timer or sensor burned out). Defrosting removed the ice plug temporarily, but since the defrosting mechanism does not work, the ice has grown again and blocked the channels.
What does it mean if the compressor is hot and the tubes behind are cold?
This is a sure sign of a lack of freon (leakage) or a complete blockage of the capillary system. The refrigerant does not circulate, so heat from the motor is not removed and is not transferred to the evaporator.
Is it necessary to change the filter drier during repairs?
Yes, with any opening of the circuit (replacing the compressor, eliminating a leak), the filter drier must be replaced. It is disposable and absorbs moisture from the air that entered the system during repairs.