The situation when the upper chamber in the refrigerator Ariston stops freezing, but the lower one continues to work normally or, conversely, both compartments lose cold, often takes the owner by surprise. This is a common problem that can be caused either by a banal violation of operating rules or by serious technical malfunctions of the unit. Unlike old two-compressor models, modern No Frost and static cooling systems are more complex, and a failure in one unit can paralyze the operation of the entire device.
The first thing to do when a problem is detected is to carry out an initial diagnosis without calling a technician. Often the reason lies in small things: incorrectly set temperature, dense loading of food, or even the fact that the door was not closed tightly by children. However, if the unit hums, but there is no cold, or, conversely, is silent, a deeper analysis of the condition of refrigerant and electrical components is required.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons for the failure of the upper chamber of Ariston refrigerators, consider the self-check algorithm and point out the symptoms in which professional intervention becomes inevitable. Understanding the principles of operation of your model will help you save time and money by avoiding unnecessary expenses for the services of a service center in case of simple breakdowns.
Violation of temperature conditions and operating rules
Before looking for complex technical faults, it is worth eliminating the human factor. Often, users accidentally change the settings of the thermostat or temperature control panel. If it becomes warmer in the upper compartment, check whether the mode Super Freeze or, conversely, the minimum cooling power has been set. In models with electronic control, a failure could occur due to a power surge, and the system requires downtime to reboot.
The second important aspect is air circulation. In system refrigerators No Frost cold is pumped by a fan and distributed through the channels. If the food in the upper chamber lies close to the back wall or blocks the air duct openings, cold air simply cannot get into the desired compartment. This leads to a local increase in temperature, although the unit itself is working properly.
⚠️ Attention: Never lean food against the back wall of the refrigerator compartment, even if there are no visible holes there. In models with dynamic cooling, there may be hidden channels, the closure of which will lead to freezing of the evaporator and system failure.
It is also worth paying attention to the tightness of the door seal. If the rubber is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The compressor wears out, trying to compensate for the heat influx, but the upper part, where the heat first enters, ceases to cool properly. Check the fit of the magnetic tape around the entire perimeter.
Refrigerant leak: symptoms and diagnosis
One of the most common reasons why a refrigerator Ariston stops freezing is a freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and if its quantity decreases, the heat transfer efficiency decreases. Unlike older models, where the leak often occurred through the evaporator, in modern units the cause may be a microcrack in the foamed part of the body or in the heating circuit of the door perimeter.
It is difficult to diagnose a leak on your own, since freon is colorless and odorless. However, there are indirect signs. If the compressor runs almost non-stop, and the temperature in the chambers does not drop below +10...+15 degrees, this is a sure sign of a lack of refrigerant. Also pay attention to the condenser (grid on the back): if it is only partially warm or completely cold when the engine is running, it means that gas has left the system.
It is important to understand that simply “add freon” in this case is not enough. It is necessary to find the location of the leak, eliminate it and only then refill the system. If this is not done, the gas will leave again after some time, and the compressor, running idle, may burn out from overheating.
Where does the leak most often occur?
Most often, freon escapes through the steel heating circuit of the door (especially in wet rooms) or through the evaporator, if it is accidentally pierced with a knife during defrosting. In foamed models, finding a fistula can take a long time and require opening the case.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator, creating pressure for the movement of freon. If the upper chamber does not freeze, and the lower one works poorly or does not work at all, the problem may be in the motor. In two-compressor Ariston models, its own engine is responsible for the upper compartment, and its failure completely deprives the chamber of cold. In single-compressor models, motor failure stops cooling in the entire device.
Often the compressor itself is working, but cannot start due to a faulty start-up relay. This is a small device that provides an impulse to start the motor windings. If the relay is burned out, you can hear characteristic clicks every few minutes: the unit tries to start, hums for 5-10 seconds and turns off. In this case, replacing the relay is a simple and inexpensive procedure, accessible even to a beginner.
If the compressor runs constantly without turning off, but does not create the necessary pressure, there may be a loss of motor performance. This often happens in older models after many years of use. Mechanical wear of the piston group does not allow freon to be pumped with the required force, and the cold in the upper chamber becomes insufficient for freezing.
☑️ Compressor diagnostics
Problems with the defrost system No Frost
In refrigerators with a No Frost system, the automatic defrosting system plays a critical role. If it fails, the evaporator located behind the rear panel becomes covered with a “coat” of ice. This ice blocks the ventilation ducts, and cold air stops flowing into the main chamber. As a result, the refrigerator is warm, although the unit itself is humming.
The main elements of the defrost system that can fail:
- ❄️ defrost heating element —a heating element that melts ice on the evaporator; if it burns, the ice does not melt.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor (thermostat) — records the temperature of the evaporator and gives a command to turn on the heating element; if it “lies”, the defrost cycle will not start.
- ⏱️ Timer or control module —the “brain” of the system, which switches between cooling and defrosting modes; a failure in the electronics leads to a freeze in the cooling mode.
- 💨 Fan - if it is frozen or burned out, the air does not circulate and the cold does not reach the food.
For diagnostics it is necessary to defrost the refrigerator within 12-24 hours (with doors open). If after switching on the unit worked normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem repeated itself, one of the elements of the defrosting system is definitely faulty. Most often, in Ariston refrigerators, the defrost sensor fails or the heating element burns out.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to chip off the ice with a knife or other sharp objects to free the channels. Damage to the evaporator tubes will lead to an immediate leak of freon and expensive repairs, which are often not economically feasible.
Clogged capillary tube
The capillary tube is a thin copper pipeline in which throttling (sharp expansion) of liquid freon occurs before it enters the evaporator. The diameter of the tube is extremely small, so it is sensitive to contamination. Oil oxidation products, moisture or small chips formed when the compressor wears out may enter the system.
If clogged, freon cannot circulate in full. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor runs for a long time, the condenser is hot, but there is no cold in the chambers or it is very weak. A distinctive feature is that the lower part of the compressor can be very hot, and the filter drier (the cylindrical element in front of the entrance to the capillary) can be cold or covered with frost.
Removing the blockage requires professional equipment. The technician must:
- Drain the remaining freon.
- Open the system and purge the circuit with nitrogen under high pressure.
- Replace the filter drier (this is a mandatory procedure whenever the circuit is opened).
- Evacuate the system and charge with new refrigerant.
Comparative table of faults
For ease of diagnosis, the main symptoms and probable causes are collected in the table below. This will help you quickly navigate the nature of the breakdown.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Need a technician |
|---|---|---|---|
| The compressor does not start, silence | The starting relay or thermostat has burned out | Low | You can do it yourself |
| It hums, but does not freeze, the capacitor is cold | Leakage freon | High | Required |
| Works non-stop, the chamber is warm | Leakage or loss of motor performance | High | Required |
| After defrosting it works, then not again | Malfunction of the defrosting system (heating element, sensor) | Average | Desirable |
| Ice at the bottom of the freezer, warm at the top | Clogged capillary tube | High | Required |
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does ice freeze in the Ariston refrigerator only on the back wall?
This is a characteristic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system in models No Frost. Most likely, the evaporator heating element or defrost sensor is not working. Ice builds up on the evaporator itself (which is hidden behind plastic) and when there is too much of it, it begins to protrude through the air ducts into the chamber. Diagnostics and replacement of burnt elements are required.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it does not freeze, but works?
It is strictly not recommended. If the cause is a freon leak, the compressor will work continuously, trying to gain temperature, which will lead to overheating and burnout of the windings. If the problem is with the defrost system, ice may damage plastic parts or the fan. It is better to turn off the device until the reasons are found out.
How much does the repair cost if the upper chamber does not freeze?
The cost depends on the breakdown. Replacing a thermostat or relay is inexpensive. Freon refilling and leak detection are more expensive because they require special materials and labor. If a compressor replacement is required, repairs can amount to up to 50-70% of the cost of a new refrigerator, which often makes it impractical for older models.
How long to defrost a refrigerator to check the No Frost system?
For the ice in the hidden cavities of the evaporator to completely melt, the refrigerator must stand with the doors open for at least 12 hours, or better yet - 24 hours. Defrosting for 2-3 hours is often insufficient, and ice remains in hard-to-reach places, which leads to erroneous diagnosis.