The situation when Beko refrigerator the upper chamber stops cooling is one of the most common problems faced by owners of household appliances. If the ice in the freezer is still hard and the food in the main compartment begins to spoil, this is a clear signal of a problem with refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system. Often, users ignore the first signs, relying on the fact that the equipment will “go away” after defrosting, however, in the case of modern models No Frost this can only be a temporary solution.
A violation of the temperature regime can be caused by both trivial reasons that can be easily eliminated on your own, for example, not tightly closed door or broken settings, as well as serious technical malfunctions. The latter include a freon leak, a clogged capillary tube, or a compressor failure. It is important to understand that diagnosis is the first and most important stage, which will save time and money by determining whether you need to call a specialist or the problem can be solved on your own.
In this article we will analyze in detail all the possible reasons why upper chamber your refrigerator stopped freezing, and We will propose an action algorithm for each situation. We will look at the operation of the system No Frost, features of sensors and thermostats, and also point out symptoms in which independent repair may be dangerous or impractical. A careful study of the symptoms will help you accurately determine the nature of the breakdown.
Problems with the door and chamber sealing
The most obvious, but often ignored, reason for loss of cold is a violation of the seal of the fridge compartment. If the door does not fit tightly, warm air from the room constantly flows in, creating excess load on the compressor. The cooling system simply does not have time to remove heat, and the temperature in the upper compartment rises. In models Beko with the system No Frost this also leads to increased formation of ice on the evaporator, which is located behind the rear wall.
Check the condition of the rubber seal around the perimeter of the door. Over time, the rubber dries out, cracks or becomes deformed, especially in areas of frequent contact with the body. Even a microscopic gap can cause it to refrigerator stop maintaining temperature. Clean the seal with a soft cloth and soapy water to remove any grease or dust that may be preventing a tight seal. If the rubber has lost its elasticity, it must be replaced.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the door is skewed or the hinges are sagging, do not try to forcefully slam it. This can lead to destruction of the plastic or permanent failure of the closing mechanism. Adjusting the hinges requires care and a suitable tool.
It is also worth paying attention to the contents of the shelves. If food is too close to the back wall or hanging over the edges, it can mechanically prevent the door from closing tightly. In some cases, a foreign object that gets into the seal area (for example, a crumb or piece of packaging) creates a gap through which the cold escapes.
Malfunctions of the No Frost defrost system
In refrigerators Bekoequipped with the system No Frost, proper operation is a critical element defrost systems. If one of its components fails, a coat of ice begins to grow on the evaporator, located behind the rear panel of the freezer. This ice blocks the air channels through which cold air should flow into the upper chamber. As a result, the fan circulates air, but it simply cannot pass through the ice blockage.
The main culprits in this situation most often are:
- ❄️ Defrost heating element —a heating element that can burn out and stop melting the ice.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor —a thermostat, which gives the command to turn the heating on and off; if it “lies”, the ice does not melt.
- 🕒 Timer or electronic module - a device that regulates the cooling and defrosting cycles.
- 💨 Fan - if it freezes or breaks, the air circulation stops completely.
Diagnosing this problem often requires partial disassembly of the freezer. It is necessary to remove the back plastic panel and visually assess the amount of ice. If the evaporator is completely covered with snow, and the heating element shows a break when tested with a multimeter, then the cause has been found. Replacing the heating element is a procedure accessible to a person with basic electrical skills, but requires precision.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Refrigerant (freon) leakage
One of the most unpleasant and difficult to eliminate reasons why upper chamber the refrigerator Beko does not freeze is a refrigerant leak. Freon circulates in a closed loop, and if a microcrack appears in the system, the gas gradually evaporates. At first, performance drops, and the refrigerator begins to work almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but over time, cooling stops completely or remains only in the freezer.
Often a leak occurs in the foamed part of the body or in places where pipes are soldered, where the metal is subject to corrosion. It is difficult to visually notice a leak, since freon is colorless and odorless. An indirect sign may be swelling of the inner wall of the refrigerator or the appearance of rust on external metal surfaces in the area of the heating circuit. If the compressor operates continuously, but does not heat up (or heats up weakly), and there is no characteristic noise of gas flow in the condenser tubes, the probability of a leak is high.
⚠️ Attention: Self-filling the refrigerator with freon is impossible without special equipment and skills. Moreover, finding the location of a leak in a foamed casing often requires complex manipulations. If you suspect a leak, it is better to contact a service center, since simple refueling without eliminating the cause will not provide a long-term solution.
There is a myth that if the refrigerator does not freeze, you just need to add freon. However, if the gas leak is not found and corrected, the problem will return within a few weeks or months. In addition, different models Beko require different types of refrigerant (for example, R600a or R134a), and using the wrong gas can damage the compressor.
Why is it dangerous to look for leaks yourself?
Using soapy water to find leaks in hard-to-reach places can introduce moisture on electrical contacts or inside thermal insulation, which will cause corrosion or short circuit. Professionals use pressurized nitrogen and special leak detectors that leave no residue and are safe for electronics. In addition, inept handling of the tool can turn a microcrack into a serious breakdown requiring replacement of the entire circuit.
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical malfunction that leads to a lack of cold in the upper chamber is a clogged capillary tube. This thin copper tube serves as a choke, creating the pressure difference necessary to boil the freon. Over time, oil oxidation products, moisture or microparticles can accumulate inside the system, which clog the narrow section of the tube. The circulation of the refrigerant is disrupted, and it stops flowing into the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber in the required volume.
Symptoms of a blockage are often similar to a freon leak: the compressor runs for a long time, the condenser (grid at the back) can only be partially warm or be cold. However, when there is a blockage in the system, a characteristic gurgling sound is often heard, which can appear and disappear. The pressure at the outlet of the compressor rises, and at the inlet it drops, which creates a vacuum. In some cases, turning on the refrigerator for a short time and then turning it off for a long time helps, but this is only a temporary measure.
To remove the blockage you need:
- 🛠️ Blowing the system nitrogen under high pressure.
- 💧 Replacing the filter drierwhich retains moisture and dirt.
- 🔄 Vacuuming circuit to remove residual moisture and air.
This procedure refers to complex repairs and requires professional equipment. At home, it is almost impossible to properly clean the capillary tube. If you ignore the problem, the compressor may burn out from overload, trying to pump the refrigerant through the obstacle.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and sensors
In refrigerators Beko various sensors and thermostats are responsible for maintaining the temperature. If the control device receives incorrect data about the temperature inside the chamber, it may not command the compressor to turn on, even if the refrigerator is warm. Older models use a mechanical one, while new ones use electronic sensors (NTC). thermostat, the new ones have electronic sensors (NTC).
A mechanical thermostat is a device with a capillary tube that senses temperature. If its settings are lost or mechanical wear occurs, the contacts may not close. In electronic models, the temperature sensor can “lie”, showing the control module that it is already cold in the chamber, although in fact it is warm there. Diagnostics is carried out by testing the sensor with a multimeter at different temperatures (by placing it in water with ice and heating it).
It is also worth checking the defrost sensor, which we mentioned earlier, but its role is dual: it is also involved in the cooling cycle. If it is faulty, the system may “think” that a defrosting process is in progress and block the compressor from operating. Replacing sensors is a relatively inexpensive and quick repair, which often brings equipment back to life.
Table: Comparison of symptoms of major faults
To make it easier for you to navigate possible causes, we have compiled a summary table of symptoms. Please note that an accurate diagnosis can only be made by a specialist after an instrumental check.
| Malfunction | Compressor operation | Freezer condition | Refrigeration chamber condition | Additional signs |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Freon leak | Works constantly or does not turn on | Freezes slightly or does not freeze | Does not freeze, food is warm | Condenser is cold, no rustling |
| Capillary clogged | Works with overload | Freezes normally or weakly | Does not freeze | Gurgling, hot filter drier |
| System failure No Frost | Works cyclically | Freezes, a lot of ice in the back | Does not freeze due to lack of airflow | Ice coat on evaporator, fan noise |
| Thermostat malfunction | Does not turn on at all | Room temperature | Room temperature | No click on switch on lamp |
| Problems with the door | Works almost non-stop | Ice formation | Temperature above normal | Condensation on food, loose fit |
Prevention and proper care
In order Beko refrigerator to serve for a long time and not require frequent repairs, it is important to follow simple operating rules. Regular defrosting (even for a No Frost system, a complete defrosting once a year is recommended) helps prevent odor buildup and makes the defrost system easier to operate. Do not place hot foods in the chamber - this creates an extra load on the compressor and leads to the formation of condensation, which can freeze in the channels.
Keep the condenser grill at the back of the refrigerator clean. Dust, animal hair and dirt act as a heat insulator, preventing heat dissipation. This forces the compressor to work longer and harder, which shortens its life. Cleaning with a vacuum cleaner or brush once every six months is an excellent habit for the owner of any household appliance.
⚠️ Attention: It is not recommended to install the refrigerator near heat sources (stove, radiator) or in direct sunlight. This disrupts heat transfer and may cause the upper chamber to stop coping with cooling even with working equipment.
It is also important not to overload the shelves with products. Cold air should circulate freely inside the chamber. If you pack the refrigerator, the air will not be able to wash the food, and the temperature will be different in different corners. Leave small gaps between the products and the walls.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why, after defrosting, does the Beko refrigerator not freeze the upper chamber?
If after defrosting the cold does not appear within 4-6 hours, there may have been a failure in the control system or damage during defrosting (for example, the evaporator was pierced). There could also be a displacement of the refrigerant or blockage of the capillary by ice that did not have time to melt. Let the appliance run empty for up to 12 hours. If there are no changes, a specialist diagnosis is required.