A sudden stop in the operation of refrigeration equipment always becomes an unpleasant surprise for any home cook, because it jeopardizes the safety of all food supplies. If you notice that Ariston refrigerator has stopped cooling, you should not immediately panic or look for contacts of a service center, since in some cases the problem can be diagnosed independently. The first step is to carry out an initial visual inspection and exclude trivial causes, such as lack of power supply or incorrect installation of the thermostat.
Modern models, whether Ariston No Frost or classic systems with drip defrosting, have a complex internal structure, where each element plays a critical role. A malfunction of even one part can lead to the chamber no longer reaching the required temperature, and the food begins to deteriorate. It is important to understand the difference between a complete equipment failure and a partial decrease in cooling efficiency, since the troubleshooting algorithms in these cases will differ significantly from each other.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons why Ariston refrigerator does not freezeand provide a step-by-step algorithm for troubleshooting. You will learn how to check the operation of the compressor, detect refrigerant leaks and determine faulty sensors without calling a technician. Competent diagnostics at the initial stage will help save significant money and time, and will also extend the life of your household appliance.
Checking the ice defrosting and freezing system
One of the most common reasons why Ariston refrigerator does not freeze well, is a violation of the defrosting cycle, typical for models of the No Frost system. In such units, the evaporator is hidden behind the back wall of the freezer, and if the defrost heating element or timer malfunctions, a giant coat of ice grows on it. This icy shell blocks the circulation of cold air, which is why it becomes warm in the main chamber, although the freezer can continue to work.
If you hear that the fan is humming, but the airflow (air flow) is not felt, or you notice frost on the door, most likely the system defrost is blocked by ice. In this case, it is necessary to completely defrost the refrigerator, leaving it turned off for 24 hours with the doors open. Only after the water has completely drained and the internal surfaces have dried can you try to turn on the device again to test the hypothesis.
It is worth considering that simple defrosting is only a temporary solution that will help confirm the diagnosis, but will not eliminate the breakdown itself. If, after turning on, the refrigerator stops freezing again after a few days or weeks, it means that one of the elements of the defrost system has failed: Evaporator heating element, the defrost sensor or the fuse. Replacing these parts requires disassembling the back panel of the freezer and having a multimeter to check the continuity of the circuit.
How to check the defrosting heating element with a multimeter?
To check, you need to get to the heating element located on the evaporator. Disconnect the wires and set the multimeter to resistance (Ohms) mode. Touch the contacts of the heating element with the probes: if the device shows a value from 200 to 800 Ohms, the heating element is working. If the resistance is infinitely high (one on the screen), the heating element is burnt out and requires replacement.
Diagnostics of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigeration unit, and if it does not start or works intermittently, cooling becomes impossible. When Ariston refrigerator hums, but does not freeze, this often indicates that the engine is trying to start, but the start relay cannot close the circuit or the engine itself is stuck. A characteristic sign of such a malfunction is clicks every few minutes, followed by a hum and subsequent shutdown.
Ariston models often use compressors from different manufacturers, and their service life may vary. If the motor is hot to the touch, but does not start, there is a high probability of inter-turn short circuit of the windings or mechanical jamming of the piston group. In such a situation, independent repair is practically impossible, since the compressor needs to be replaced using specialized equipment for evacuation of the system and refilling with freon.
However, before sinning on an expensive motor, it is worth checking the start-protection relay, which is mounted on the side of the compressor housing. This is a small plastic box, inside of which there is a contact group and thermal protection. If the relay has traces of carbon deposits, has melted, or makes a rattling sound when shaken (like broken ceramic), replacing it will solve the problem of starting the engine. This is one of the few parts that you can change yourself without losing the tightness of the circuit.
Refrigerant leakage and problems with circulation
If the compressor operates continuously without turning off, but the temperature in the chambers remains high, and there is no frost on the evaporator or freezes only in one corner, most likely it has occurred freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and a violation of its tightness leads to the fact that the substance simply evaporates into the atmosphere without performing its heat exchange function. Visually, this can be manifested by swelling of the walls of the refrigerator or oily spots where the tubes are damaged.
Leaks often occur in the foamed part of the body, where the evaporator tubes pass, due to metal corrosion. In such cases, repairs become economically unfeasible, since they require opening the thermal insulation, installing a new evaporator (“weeping” or external) and re-sealing. Another option is a clogged capillary tube, which also disrupts circulation, but in this case the compressor can work with overload, and the filter drier can heat up.
To find the location of the damage, technicians use professional leak detectors or the nitrogen pressure test method. Finding a microcrack in a foamed circuit on your own without equipment is almost impossible, so if you suspect a leak, it is better to immediately contact a professional.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to try to solder the refrigeration circuit tubes yourself without the appropriate experience and equipment. Improper soldering can lead to an explosion of oil vapor or further damage to the system, and the use of an open flame near the foam body materials is a fire hazard.
☑️ Symptoms of a freon leak
Malfunctions of the thermostat and sensors
The electronics of modern Ariston refrigerators control all cooling processes based on the readings of temperature sensors. If thermostat fails, it can send an incorrect signal to the control board, reporting that the chamber is already “too cold”, which is why the compressor does not turn on at all. In mechanical models, this is a simple “twist”; in electronic models, it is complex thermistors, the resistance of which varies depending on the temperature of the environment.
Diagnostics of the electronic control module often shows errors in the form of flashing indicators or letter codes on the display. For example, a flashing temperature light may indicate an open circuit or short circuit in the sensor. In this case, the refrigerator may go into emergency mode or completely stop cooling to prevent food spoilage or defrosting.
Replacing sensors is usually not difficult if you have access to their location. They can be installed in the air duct, inside the chamber or on the evaporator itself. However, if the problem lies in the control board itself (the compressor control triac or relay has burned out), professional resoldering of the elements or replacement of the entire module followed by flashing is required.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor does not hum, there is no light | No power, socket burnt out | Low |
| Buzzing, clicking, does not start | Faulty starting relay | Medium |
| Works constantly, does not freeze | Freon leak or blockage | High |
| Frost only in the corner of the evaporator | No Frost system malfunction | Medium |
| Indicators on the panel are flashing | Sensor or board error | High |
Problems with seals and chamber tightness
It would seem like a small thing, but a worn-out one door seal can cause the refrigerator to not maintain its temperature. If the rubber has lost its elasticity, cracked or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to compensate for heat loss by working hard, but in the end it may not be able to cope with the load, especially in the hot season or when the chambers are fully loaded with products.
You can check the tightness in a simple way: clamp a sheet of paper between the door and the body around the entire perimeter. If the paper comes out easily, without resistance, then the seal is broken in that area. It is also worth paying attention to the cleanliness of the fit: sticky dirt or crumbs do not allow the door to close tightly, creating gaps for the penetration of warm air.
In some cases, the properties of the rubber can be restored using silicone grease or heating with a hairdryer (be careful not to melt), but if the material is dull or torn, only replacement will help. When installing a new seal, it is important not only to glue it, but also to correctly straighten the corners so that they fit tightly to the body after heating.
The influence of external factors and operating rules
Sometimes the answer to the question why the refrigerator does not work lies not in a breakdown, but in a violation of operating conditions. Placing equipment near heating devices, in direct sunlight or in a niche without ventilation gaps leads to overheating of the condenser. The grille on the rear wall must be freely blown with air, otherwise heat will not be removed and cooling efficiency will drop sharply.
It is also critically important not to overload the chambers with products. If you pack the freezer so full that the air ducts are blocked, the cold simply will not be able to circulate through the system. In models with No Frost this is especially true, since there cooling occurs precisely due to forced air circulation by a fan.
Another factor is the quality of the electrical network. Voltage surges can damage electronics or cause the compressor to operate unstably. If the lights in your home flicker frequently, it is recommended to use a voltage stabilizer to protect expensive equipment from premature failure.
⚠️ Attention: Do not install the refrigerator in an unheated room (balcony, cottage in winter) without consulting the instructions. The oil in the compressor thickens in the cold, and starting the engine at low temperatures can lead to instant failure.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Why does the Ariston refrigerator only freeze at the top, while it is warm at the bottom?
This is a classic sign of a refrigerant or air circulation problem. In No Frost systems, the air duct is most often clogged with ice due to a malfunction of the defrost system. In single-compressor models, this may indicate a freon leak, when its quantity is only enough for the first circuit (freezer), and it no longer reaches the lower evaporator in the required volume.
How long should a new refrigerator cool down after switching on?
Usually, reaching the operating temperature takes from 2 to 12 hours depending on the model and ambient temperature (temperature) in the room). If after 12 hours of operation at maximum mode the walls are not cold and the food is not cooled, you should look for a malfunction.
Is it possible to repair an Ariston refrigerator yourself?
You can replace the light bulb, seal, start relay or sensor yourself if you have the skills to work with a multimeter. However, work related to the violation of the tightness of the circuit (replacing the compressor, eliminating leaks, refilling with freon) requires a license and special equipment, so it is better to entrust them to professionals.
What does a flashing alarm indicator on the control panel mean?
A flashing indicator (often a red triangle or an exclamation point) indicates that the temperature in the freezer is rising above critical point. This can be caused either by an open door or by an actual breakdown. If after closing the door and waiting the signal does not disappear, diagnostics are necessary.