The situation when the upper chamber of the refrigerator Atlant stops maintaining a low temperature, and the freezer compartment continues to function normally, is one of the most common complaints from the owners of this equipment. This behavior of the unit often confuses the user, since the compressor is running, the light is on, but the products in the main compartment begin to deteriorate. In contrast to a complete failure of equipment, when nothing works, a partial loss of cold indicates a specific failure in the refrigerant circulation or temperature control system.
Many owners mistakenly believe that if the freezer freezes, then everything is fine with the refrigerator, and the problem will solve itself after defrosting. However, in systems with one compressor, which are typical for most models Atlant, the cold is distributed in series or in parallel, and an imbalance always indicates a technical malfunction. Ignoring the first symptoms can lead to failure of an expensive compressor or a complete leak of freon, which will require complex factory repairs.
In this material we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electronic causes of this malfunction, ranging from simple settings to serious breakdowns of the cooling circuit. Understanding the operating principle of your model will help you correctly diagnose the problem and make a decision: call a technician or try to fix the problem yourself, if the design of the device allows it.
The principle of operation of the cooling system and cold distribution
To understand why a temperature imbalance occurs, it is necessary to consider the basic operating diagram of the refrigeration unit. Most models Atlant use a system where the refrigerant first passes through the evaporator of the freezer, cooling it to very low values, and then, already heated, enters the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment. If at the first stage everything goes well, the freezer works properly, but at the second stage the heat exchange is disrupted, the upper chamber gets warmer.
The key element here is thermostat or an electronic control module that reads sensor readings. In models with manual defrosting or a drip system (“crying evaporator”), the cold is pumped in by natural convection or a fan. If the air flow is blocked by ice or the damper is stuck in the closed position, the cold simply does not reach the food in the upper compartment, remaining preserved in the freezer.
It is also important to consider the presence of the system No Frost. In such units, a fan is responsible for air circulation. If it is working properly, but the air supply channels are clogged with ice, the problem described will occur. In systems with a drip system, the problem most often lies in a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube, when the refrigerant pressure is not enough to complete the full cycle to the upper chamber.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the most likely reasons why the refrigerator Atlant does not cool in the upper compartment is a failure of the thermostat (thermostat). This device is responsible for turning the compressor on and off depending on the temperature inside the chambers. If the thermostat contacts are “stuck” in the open position or the sensor transmits incorrect data to the control board, the compressor may not start at all or work too little to freeze the main volume.
In models with electronic control, this process is responsible thermal sensors. Their resistance changes depending on the temperature, and if the main chamber sensor shows an error or is “lying,” the control module may assume that the cold has been reached and turn off the refrigerant or fan supply. This is often accompanied by blinking indicators on the front panel or the appearance of an error code.
⚠️ Attention: Before replacing the thermostat, make sure that the problem is not in the wiring. Oxidized contacts or a broken wire can give the same picture as a faulty sensor, and replacing a working part will not solve the problem.
Diagnostics of a mechanical thermostat is often carried out by elimination. If, when turning the regulator knob to the “Maximum” position, there is no click and the compressor does not start, there is a high probability of breakdown. Electronic systems require testing with a multimeter at different temperatures, since it is impossible to visually determine a malfunction. NTC sensor impossible.
Another important aspect is the location of the thermostat. On some models Atlant it is installed in the refrigerator compartment, and if it does not read the temperature correctly due to ice or misalignment, the cooling cycle is interrupted prematurely. This leads to the fact that the freezer (where it is colder) still maintains the temperature, but the top compartment is already warm.
Freon leakage and problems with the capillary tube
If the refrigerator Atlant hums, the compressor works practically without stops, but there is no cold in the main chamber, and in the freezer it is weak or only at the back wall, most likely it happened refrigerant leak. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if its seal is broken, the pressure drops. There is simply not enough refrigerant to go through a full circle and cool the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber, so it only has time to cool at the beginning of the circuit - in the freezer.
Often leaks occur in the foamed part of the body, in places of soldering or due to pipeline corrosion. It is difficult to notice a leak visually, but an indirect sign may be swelling of the side walls or the appearance of rust at the joints. Also the reason may be clogged capillary tube. Oil and freon circulate in the system, and if an ice or dirt plug forms in the tube, the refrigerant flow stops or becomes insufficient.
The table below shows the main symptoms that allow you to differentiate a leak from other faults:
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation |
|---|---|---|
| The freezer is working, the top is warm | Freon leakage | Works without stopping, hot |
| There is cold, but weak | Clogged capillary tube | Works cyclically, may overheat |
| No cold anywhere | Complete leak or breakdown compressor | Does not turn on or hums and clicks |
| Uneven cold | Fan malfunction (No Frost) | Works in normal mode |
Fix it yourself leakage or blockage is almost impossible, since special equipment is required to evacuate the system, charge with freon and seal the circuit. Attempts to simply “add gas” without finding and eliminating the leak will only give a temporary effect.
⚠️ Attention: Freon used in refrigerators can be a fire hazard (for example, R600a). Only a specialist should carry out work on soldering the circuit in compliance with safety regulations.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator with a freon leak?
It is possible to use a unit with a leak, but it is ineffective. The compressor will work hard, trying to gain temperature, which will lead to overheating and burning of the windings. In addition, food in the refrigerator compartment will quickly deteriorate, creating a risk of poisoning.
Problems with the defrost system (for No Frost models)
In refrigerators Atlant with a system No Frost a common reason for the lack of cold in the main chamber when operating The freezer has a malfunction in the defrost system. The essence of the problem is that a “coat” of ice is growing on the evaporator, which is hidden behind the back panel of the freezer. The fan, which should drive cold air into the upper chamber, is simply blocked by ice or stops working due to overload.
Three main elements are responsible for the defrosting process: Evaporator heating element, thermal fuse and defrost timer (or defrost sensor in electronic models). If the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt and gradually blocks the air ducts. If the sensor is faulty, the system “does not understand” that the heating needs to be turned on, and ice accumulates cyclically.
It is easy to check this version: if you defrost the refrigerator completely (for 24 hours with the doors open), and after turning it on it will start to freeze normally in both compartments, but after 1-2 weeks the problem will return - the problem is definitely in the defrosting system. A visual inspection of the fan may also show the presence of ice chips on the blades.
It is important to note that in models with one evaporator and dampers, failure air regulator dampers also leads to similar symptoms. If the damper is stuck in the closed position, the cold physically cannot enter the refrigerator compartment, remaining in the freezer.
Mechanical damage and wear of seals
Do not discount trivial mechanical reasons. If sealing gum the door of the refrigeration chamber is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to compensate for heat loss by working non-stop, but due to the constant influx of heat, the temperature does not drop to the required values, while the sealed freezer keeps the cold.
You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter. If it pulls out without effort or falls on its own, the seal is broken. Also, the reason may be door misalignment due to wear of the hinges, which is especially important for heavy models Atlant with years of operation.
Another mechanical factor is incorrect installation. If the refrigerator is too close to the wall or in a niche without gaps, the heat exchange of the condenser (grid at the back) is disrupted. The compressor overheats and can go into protection mode without having time to produce the necessary cold. The minimum gap to the wall should be 5-10 cm.
Sometimes the problem lies in the product itself or its placement. If you have placed a large amount of warm products in the chamber or pressed the shelves tightly, blocking air access to the back wall (where the sensor or cold flow outlet is located), the local temperature may not drop.
☑️ Diagnostics of the seal and installation
Diagnostics and procedure in case of breakdown
If a problem is detected, you need to act consistently so as not to aggravate the situation. The first step should always be complete defrosting. Unplug the refrigerator, remove all food, and leave it with the doors open for at least 24 hours. This will prevent the formation of ice plugs in the channels and allow the system to “rest.”
After switching on, listen carefully to the operation of the unit. If after 30-40 minutes of operation the back wall in the refrigerator compartment (or the place where the cold air exits) does not become cool, and the compressor is working, there is a technical problem. If the cold appears, but after a week it disappears again, look for a malfunction in the defrost system or thermostat.
If you do not have the skills to work with electrical appliances and a multimeter, further self-diagnosis can be dangerous. Checking the compressor, start relay and electrical circuits requires compliance with electrical safety measures. In the event of a freon leak, repair is impossible without special tools.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics and location of components may vary depending on the specific model and year of manufacture. Always check the official instructions or technical documentation of the manufacturer for your device.
If you start the compressor in non-stop mode due to a leak or broken thermostat, you can burn out the motor, the replacement of which will cost much more than repairing the circuit or replacing the sensor.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the Atlant refrigerator get very cold in the freezer, but does not cool on top?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or a clogged capillary system. There is not enough refrigerant for a full cycle, so it only cools the first section of the circuit (the freezer), and does not reach the refrigeration chamber in the required volume. It is also possible for the air channels to be blocked by ice in No Frost systems.
How long should the refrigerator cool down after defrosting?
Usually, the refrigerator Atlant takes from 2 to 4 hours to reach operating temperature. If, after 5-6 hours of operation in an empty state, the temperature in the main chamber does not drop below +10..+12°C, there is a technical malfunction.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if one compartment does not work?
Short-term - yes, if stored products are only in the freezer. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which will work without rest, trying to achieve the set parameters. This can lead to its overheating and failure.
How to understand that the defrost heating element has burned out?
This can only be accurately determined by testing it with a multimeter (there should be resistance, not a break). Indirect sign: after defrosting, the refrigerator works normally for 1-2 weeks, and then again stops cooling the upper chamber due to ice fouling on the evaporator.
Is it necessary to change the filter drier during repairs?
Yes, with any opening of the refrigerant circulation circuit (elimination of a leak, replacement of the compressor) The filter drier must be replaced. It is a disposable element and upon contact with air it loses its properties, which can lead to re-clogging of the system.