The situation when a two-chamber or single-chamber refrigerator LG works without interruption is a serious signal of a violation in cooling system. In normal mode, the unit should turn on and off cyclically, maintaining the set temperature inside the chambers. If the motor hums for days on end, this not only leads to a colossal waste of electricity, but also creates the risk of complete failure of the expensive compressor. Users often notice the problem too late, when a “coat” of ice has already formed on the walls of the chamber, and food begins to deteriorate. Ignoring the first signs of continuous operation of equipment can lead to the need for complex and expensive repairs. It is important to understand that compressor.
Users often notice the problem too late, when a “coat” of ice has already formed on the walls of the chamber, and the food begins to deteriorate. Ignoring the first signs of continuous operation of equipment can lead to the need for complex and expensive repairs. It is important to understand that constant operation of the compressor without stopping for 12-24 hours often indicates a physical leak of refrigerantwhich cannot be eliminated by a simple reboot.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of malfunctions characteristic of models of the Korean brand. You will learn how to independently carry out initial diagnostics and determine whether the intervention of a specialist is required or whether the problem can be solved by adjusting the settings.
Malfunctions of the control system and sensors
Modern refrigerators LG with the system No Frost equipped with complex electronics that control all processes. If the unit does not go into rest mode, the sensor system is the first to come under suspicion. The thermostat or electronic temperature sensor may transmit incorrect signals to the control module, reporting that it is still warm inside the chamber, although in fact the temperature is already below normal.
In models with mechanical control, the thermostat is responsible for shutting down. If its capillary tube is displaced or the contacts are stuck, the circuit does not open. In electronic models, this is responsible thermal sensor, which, when broken, often shows resistance corresponding to high temperature. The control unit, receiving false data, continues to keep the compressor on.
It is also worth checking the temperature settings. If the user accidentally sets the “Super Freeze” mode or turns the mechanical knob to maximum, the refrigerator will work constantly, trying to reach unattainable values. This is not a breakdown, but an operating error.
- 🔍 Sticking of thermostat contacts in mechanical models.
- ❄️ Displacement of the capillary tube of the sensor from the rear wall.
- 📉 Failure of the electronic evaporator temperature sensor.
- 🎛️ Control module malfunction.
Refrigerant leak and seal failure
The most common and serious reason for continuous operation is a freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, taking heat from the chambers. If a microcrack appears in the system, the gas gradually evaporates. The pressure drops, and the compressor, trying to compensate for the lack of cold, works without stopping.
It is difficult to visually determine the leak, since freon is colorless and odorless. However, an indirect sign is the weak heating of the condenser grille at the back of the refrigerator or its complete cooling while the motor is running. If you touch the rear grille, and it is cold or warm only at the outlet of the compressor, this is a sure sign lack of freon.
⚠️ Attention: Refilling the refrigerator yourself without finding and eliminating the leak is a waste of money. Freon will go away again in a few days or weeks. Professional soldering and vacuuming of the system are required.
Leaks often occur in the foamed part of the case or in the places where the circuit is soldered. In some cases, gas may escape through the evaporator if it is damaged by corrosion or mechanical stress (for example, due to careless defrosting with a knife). Restoring the tightness in the foamed part requires installing an external evaporator, which is a complex procedure.
Problems with the compressor and start relay
The heart of the refrigerator is the compressor. If it runs constantly, but there is no cold, its performance may have dropped. Wear of the piston group or valves causes the motor to hum, but does not create the necessary pressure for freon circulation. The electronics “think” that there is not enough cold and does not turn off the unit.
Another common problem is a malfunction of the start-up relay. This small element is responsible for starting the engine and protecting against overloads. If the relay is stuck in the on state, it may supply power to the compressor windings continuously, even when the thermostat requires it to stop. This leads to overheating of the motor and a characteristic hum.
Compressor diagnostics require special tools, such as pressure gauges and testers. However, the initial inspection can be carried out visually: check if there are traces of oil on the motor housing (a sign of depressurization of the seals) and if there is a smell of burnt wiring from the relay.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Required action |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is hot, there is no cold | Freon leak or blockage | Call a technician to find a leak |
| The motor hums, but does not start | Faulty start relay | Replacing the relay (you can do it yourself) |
| The refrigerator works, but does not freeze well | Wear of the compressor | Replacing the compressor |
| Continuous operation after defrosting | Sensor malfunction | Checking the sensor resistance |
The influence of seals and chamber tightness
If warm air from the outside constantly enters the chamber, the refrigerator will work in increased mode, trying to cool the new volume. The main reason for heat gain is a loose fit of the door cuffs. Over time, the rubber dries out, cracks or deforms, ceasing to perform its function. rubber seal (cuffs) doors. Over time, rubber dries out, cracks or deforms, ceasing to perform its function.
You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the entire perimeter. If the paper is pulled out too easily or falls out on its own, the seal is broken in this area. It is also worth inspecting the door hinges: if they are loose, the door warps and does not fit tightly even with the seal intact.
Contamination of the seal with grease or crumbs also prevents tight closure. Regularly washing the cuff with warm water and soap will help prolong its life. If the rubber has lost its elasticity, you can try to restore it with a hairdryer (gently warming it up and straightening it), but this is a temporary measure.
☑️ Diagnosis of the seal
Clogged capillary tube
There is freon in the circulation system the narrow section is the capillary tube. It is designed to throttle the refrigerant. If moisture or oil oxidation products enter the system, an ice or oil plug will form in this bottleneck. The circulation of freon stops or becomes very difficult.
When clogged, the compressor starts working continuously, trying to “push” the freon through the obstacle. A characteristic sign is that the condenser (grid at the back) remains cold, but the compressor itself can become very hot. Sometimes you can hear gurgling sounds that end abruptly.
Removing the blockage requires purging the system with high pressure nitrogen and replacing the filter drier. This procedure is technically complex and requires professional equipment, so it cannot be performed at home.
External factors and operating conditions
Sometimes the reason lies not in a breakdown, but in environmental conditions. If the refrigerator LG installed next to a heating radiator, in direct sunlight or in a niche with poor ventilation, it overheats. Heat exchange is disrupted, and the unit cannot effectively cool the chambers, working to wear out.
It is also worth considering the climate class of the equipment. If a refrigerator designed for a temperate climate (SN, N) is placed in an unheated room in winter or in a hot kitchen (+30°C and above), its automation may not work correctly. In hot weather, the motor will work almost without interruption, which is a normal reaction to extreme conditions, but reduces the life of the equipment.
⚠️ Attention: Do not install the refrigerator close to the wall. The minimum gap for ventilation of the condenser should be 5-10 cm. Violation of this rule leads to overheating and constant operation.
How does the climate class affect the operation?
Each refrigerator is marked with a climate class (SN, N, ST, T). If you operate equipment outside the specified temperatures (for example, N class from +10 to +32°C), the compressor may not turn off or, conversely, may not start. In winter, in an unheated room, the oil in the compressor thickens, which can lead to jamming when starting.
Diagnostics and elimination methods
If you are faced with a problem of continuous operation, start with simple steps. Check if the Quick Freeze mode is turned on. Make sure the door closes tightly and the seal is clean. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 15-20 minutes to reset a possible software failure of the controller.
If the problem persists after turning it on, listen to the operation of the motor. A dull hum without vibration may indicate water hammer or a wedge, while intermittent noise may indicate overload operation. To accurately diagnose the pressure in the system and check the electrical circuits, it is better to contact a service center.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long should an LG refrigerator operate normally?
Under normal conditions, the operating cycle is approximately 15-20 minutes and 30-40 minutes rest. The operating time may increase in hot weather or with a large load of warm products, but periods of rest must be present.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it does not turn off?
For a short time (several hours) - it is possible, but this is an emergency mode. Long-term operation without stopping (more than 24 hours) will lead to overheating of the compressor windings, oil burnout, and other engine damage. Operation in this mode is not economically profitable due to electricity bills.
Why does the refrigerator not turn off after defrosting?
Immediately after defrosting, the unit takes time (up to 2-3 hours) to cool the chambers to the set temperature. During this period, working without interruption is normal. If after 4-5 hours the motor continues to hum, but there is no cold, the evaporator was probably damaged during defrosting or the sensor has failed.
What to do if the refrigerator hums, but does not freeze?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or a clogged system. It is necessary to immediately disconnect the device from the network, defrost it for 24 hours and call a technician. Further switching on can burn the compressor, as it runs “idle” without freon cooling.