The situation when the Yuryuzan refrigerator operates continuously without going into rest mode is not just discomfort from the hum of the compressor, but a direct signal of a serious malfunction. Continuous operation the unit leads to rapid wear of the motor, excessive energy consumption and, most critically, food spoilage due to incorrect temperature conditions. Owners often notice that the equipment hums for days on end, trying to achieve the set parameters, but never stops.
Many users mistakenly believe that if it is still cold inside the refrigerator compartment, then the problem is not so serious. However, constant load on compressor can lead to its complete combustion, replacement of which is often not economically feasible. It is important to understand that the cooling system is a closed cycle, where each element affects the operation of the other, and a failure in any node can cause an “endless cycle” effect.
In this article we will analyze in detail why your Yuryuzan refrigerator does not turn off, we will consider typical malfunctions from simple operating errors to complex technical breakdowns. You will learn how to carry out initial diagnostics yourself and in what cases you need to call a specialist. A correct understanding of the symptoms will help you save time and money, preventing catastrophic consequences for your equipment.
Operation errors and external factors
Before you panic and look for tools to disassemble the unit, it is worth eliminating trivial but common causes. Sometimes the problem lies not in the breakdown of parts, but in violation of the operating rules. Overload production problems are one of the most common reasons why equipment does not go to rest. When you load too many warm products or fill the shelves to capacity, air circulation is disrupted and the temperature sensors record high values, forcing the motor to work without stopping.
It is also worth paying attention to the position of the thermostat. If the knob is set to the maximum value (usually the number 7 or the inscription “Max”), the refrigerator will strive to reach extremely low temperatures, which in a normal kitchen may be physically impossible, especially in the summer. In this mode thermostat simply does not receive a signal that the target temperature has been reached.
⚠️ Attention: If you have just placed a large amount of warm food in the chamber, give the refrigerator time (up to 24 hours) to enter the mode. Do not try to forcefully turn it off during this period, so as not to disrupt the cooling cycle.
Another critical factor is the tightness of the door. If sealing rubber is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to cool this incoming volume and works non-stop. Check the cleanliness of the rubber and the absence of cracks through which air can pass.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and sensors
One of the most likely technical reasons for continuous operation is the failure of the thermostat (thermostat). This element is responsible for controlling the temperature inside the chambers and sends a command to turn the compressor on or off. If the contacts inside the thermostat are “stuck” in the closed position or the sensor has lost sensitivity, it simply does not “see” that the required cooling capacity has already been achieved.
In modern Yuryuzan models with a system No Frost or electronic control, air sensors can be used instead of a mechanical thermostat. Their malfunction is often associated with oxidation of contacts or broken wiring. The electronic control module, receiving incorrect data (or not receiving it at all), goes into emergency mode of constant operation of the compressor to ensure the safety of the products.
Diagnostics of the thermostat at home is possible, but requires caution. You need to get to the location where the sensor is mounted (usually inside the camera or behind the back wall) and check its resistance with a multimeter at different temperatures. If the device shows a break or short circuit, the part must be replaced.
How to check a mechanical thermostat without instruments?
You can do a simple test: remove the thermostat, place its sensitive tube in a container with ice for 2-3 minutes. Then call your contacts. If they do not open in the cold, then the thermostat is faulty and keeps the circuit closed.
Problems with seals and thermal insulation
The tightness of the refrigeration chamber is the foundation for the stable operation of the entire system. If sealing rubber the door has lost its elasticity, become moldy, or simply dried out over time, it no longer fits tightly to the body. The resulting gap, even a few millimeters, creates a constant flow of warm, moist air. In response to this, the Yuryuzan refrigerator begins to work in increased mode, trying to compensate for heat loss.
You can check the tightness using a simple sheet of paper. Press the door around the perimeter of the sheet and try to pull it out. If the paper is pulled out too easily without resistance, it means that the pressure in this place is insufficient. It is also worth inspecting the door itself for distortions that could arise due to loose hinges or improper installation of the unit.
In addition to door seals, problems may be hidden in the thermal insulation of the body. If the refrigerator is old or has been subjected to mechanical shock, “cold bridges” may have formed or damage to the inner layer of insulation. In this case, the cold goes outside and the heat penetrates inside, creating conditions for the eternal operation of the motor. Restoring thermal insulation is a complex process, often requiring complete disassembly of the case.
Refrigerant leakage and system blockage
When a leak occurs in the freon circulation system, the amount of refrigerant decreases and there is not enough of it for effective heat removal. The compressor, trying to compensate for the lack of pressure and reach the set temperature, works without interruption. A characteristic sign of a leak is that the refrigerator is humming, but does not gain cold or gaining very little, and the condenser (grid at the back) may be barely warm or cold.
Another common problem is a clogged capillary tube. An ice or mud plug (plug) could form in the system, which blocks the circulation of freon. The pressure in the system increases, the compressor wears out, but no cooling occurs. Unlike a leak, when clogged, the condenser can be hot only at the beginning of the circuit, and then cold.
Both cases require the intervention of a specialist with professional equipment. Finding a leak or breaking through a blockage on your own is almost impossible without a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station and a supply of freon. Attempts to “bleed” the system or add gas without eliminating the cause will only lead to a temporary effect and final breakdown of the compressor.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Condenser temperature | Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Humming, not cooling | Freon leak | Cold or barely warm | Call a technician, look for a leak |
| Humming, slight cold | Clog capillary | Hot at the beginning, cold further | Purge the system, replace the filter |
| Works without stopping | Thermostat is faulty | Very hot (overheating) | Replacing the thermostat |
| Noise, vibration | Wear of the compressor | Uneven heating | Diagnostics motor |
Faulty compressor and start relay
Heart of the refrigerator - compressor —can work continuously due to its own degradation. Over time, the piston group wears out, the valves lose their tightness, and engine performance drops. To provide the required level of cold, it has to work longer and more intensely. If you hear unusual knocking, clanging or excessively loud humming, this is a sure sign of mechanical wear.
You should also pay attention to the start relay. This small element is responsible for starting the engine. If the relay is “stuck” or its contacts are burnt, it may not open the power supply circuit to the starting winding, which is why the compressor hums, but does not start or operates in abnormal mode. Replacing the relay is an inexpensive procedure and can often be done with your own hands if you have the skills to work with electricians.
⚠️ Attention: If the compressor becomes so hot that it is impossible to touch it, immediately unplug the refrigerator! Further operation in this mode may lead to a fire or engine wedge.
☑️ Compressor diagnostics
Failures in the electronic control module
In modern models of Yuryuzan refrigerators, the electronic “brain” - the control module - is responsible for all processes. Voltage surges in the network, moisture or manufacturing defects can lead to malfunctions. The controller may “forget” the shutdown algorithm or issue erroneous commands to the actuators.
Often the problem is solved by rebooting the system. To do this, you need to completely turn off the power to the refrigerator by unplugging the plug from the socket for 15–20 minutes. If the problem persists after switching on, it is likely that the module will need to be re-flashed or completely replaced. Self-repair of electronics requires deep knowledge and special equipment.
It is worth noting that the specifics of the work of service centers and the availability of spare parts for specific models may vary. If your refrigerator is under warranty or you are in doubt about the diagnosis, it is better to check the manufacturer's official terms of service before starting any work.
Frequent questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it does not turn off?
Short-term - yes, but this is emergency mode. Long-term operation without stopping will lead to overheating of the compressor, its jamming and complete failure, as well as to a significant increase in electricity bills.
How long should a Yuryuzan refrigerator normally work?
In normal mode, the operating cycle is approximately 15-20 minutes of work and 20-30 minutes of rest. The operating time may increase when the room temperature is high or when there is a load of warm food, but periods of rest must be present.
Why does the refrigerator not turn off for a long time after defrosting?
Immediately after defrosting, the temperature inside the chambers is higher than normal. The unit requires time (from 2 to 6 hours) to freeze the volume and reach the specified mode. If it does not turn off within 6-8 hours, this is a sign of a malfunction.
Does the installation level of the refrigerator affect its shutdown?
Yes, if the refrigerator is tilted, the door may not fit tightly due to gravity, even if the seal is working. This leads to a constant intake of warm air and continuous operation of the motor.