Why the refrigerator does not switch to another operating mode: breakdowns and solutions

Have you noticed that your refrigerator works without stopping or, conversely, is “stuck” in one mode? Is the compressor not switching from cooling to defrosting, is the freezer overfreezing food, and is the main compartment too warm? These are clear signs of a failure in the management system. This problem occurs both in old models Atlant or Biryusaand in modern refrigerators Samsung No Frost or LG Inverter.

In 80% of cases the malfunction is related with thermostat, start relay or electronic control unit. But sometimes simpler things are to blame: incorrect settings, a clogged capillary tube, or even a simple lack of ventilation. In this article, we will analyze all the possible reasons why the refrigerator does not switch between modes and give step-by-step instructions for diagnosis. You will know when you can handle it yourself, and when it’s time to call a specialist.

Before starting repairs, check the obvious: whether the electricity in the house is turned off, whether the socket (for example, through an extension cord with several devices), whether the door seal is blocking. These factors often simulate serious breakdowns.

1. Malfunction of the thermostat (thermostat)

Thermostat is the “brain” of the refrigerator, which controls the temperature and sends signals to the compressor to turn on/off. If it breaks, the compressor may run continuously or, conversely, not start at all. Signs of breakdown:

• 🔄 The refrigerator does not turn off, the compressor hums without pauses
• ❄️ Too much ice forms in the freezer, and frozen food is in the main compartment
• 🌡️ The temperature in the chambers does not correspond to the set temperature (too high or low)

How to check the thermostat yourself:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and defrost it (if there is ice).
2. Remove the thermostat protective cover (usually located inside the chamber or on the back wall).
3. Ring the contacts with a tester in resistance mode. At room temperature, the resistance should be close to zero, when cooled (for example, if you apply ice) it should approach infinity.

If the thermostat does not respond to temperature changes, it needs to be replaced. For models Indesit or Bosch universal thermostats K59 or K50are suitable, but it is better to check the brand by the label on the body of the old one.

2. Problems with the compressor start relay

The start relay is a small device that “push” the compressor to start working. If it fails, the compressor may:

• 🔇 Not turn on at all (the refrigerator is silent)
• 🔄 Turn on for 1-2 seconds and immediately turn off (clicks are heard)
• 🔥 Overheat and trigger thermal protection

Most often, the relay breaks down due to:

• 💥 Power surges in the network
• 🕰️ Natural wear and tear (service life - 5-7 years)
• 💧 Moisture or condensation

How to diagnose:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back cover (at the bottom where the compressor is).
2. The relay is a small box attached to the compressor. Carefully remove it (it can be secured with latches or screws).
3. Shake the relay: if you hear knocking or rattling inside, this is a sign of mechanical wear.
4. Ring the contacts with a tester: the resistance between the terminals should be in the range of 20–40 Ohms.

If the relay is faulty, replace it with a new one (cost - from 500 to 1500 rubles). For refrigerators Samsung and LG relays are often suitable RLS-8 or DANFOSS 103N0022.

3. Failures in the electronic control unit

In modern refrigerators with a display and touch buttons (for example, Liebert, Haier or Beko No Frost) the electronic moduleis responsible for switching modes. Its breakdown can manifest itself as follows:

• 📛 An error flashes on the display (for example, E1, F2 or H)
• 🔄 The refrigerator is “stuck” in one mode (for example, only freezes or only cools)
• 🔌 Does not respond to button presses

Causes of failure:

• ⚡ Power surge (especially if the refrigerator is not connected through a stabilizer)
• 💧 Short circuit due to condensation
• 🕹️ Software failure (solved by flashing)

What can be done:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 10-15 minutes, then turn it on again.
2. Check the error code in the instructions. For example, in Samsung error 5E indicates a problem with the temperature sensor.
3. If the refrigerator does not respond at all, the fuse on the board may have blown (diagnosis by a technician is needed).

In 30% of cases, the electronic unit can be repaired (replacing capacitors, soldering tracks), but if the processor burns out, a complete replacement of the board will be required (cost - from 3,000 to 8,000 rubles).

How to avoid damage to the electronic unit?

To protect the refrigerator from power surges, connect it through stabilizer (for example, Resanta ASN-1000 or Calm IS350Also avoid placing the refrigerator near heat sources (radiators, stoves) and provide a gap of at least 5 cm from the wall for ventilation.

4. Capillary tube clogged or freon leak

If the refrigerator does not switch to cooling or freezes weakly, the problem may lie in freon circulation system. Two malfunctions:

1. Clogged capillary tube —small particles of oil or moisture block the flow of freon. The compressor works, but there is no cooling.
2. Freon leak —through microcracks in the tubes or evaporator circuit. The refrigerator freezes slightly, the compressor works without stopping.

Signs:

• 🧊 The freezer is covered with ice unevenly (for example, only in one corner)
• 🔥 The compressor is hot, but there is no cold
• 🕳️ Oil stains are visible on the back wall (a sign of leakage)

Diagnostics and repair:

• The blockage is eliminated by purging the system with nitrogen (special equipment).
• If there is a leak, the technician finds the location of the damage, seals it and refills with new freon (usually R134a or R600a).

Independent repair is impossible —to work with freon you need a license and equipment. Average cost of the service: 2500–5000 rubles.

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5. Damage to temperature sensors

B. refrigerators No Frost and models with electronic control are responsible for switching modes temperature sensors (thermistors). They transmit data to the control board, which regulates the operation of the compressor and fans. If the sensor is broken, the refrigerator can:

• 🥶 Refreeze food (the sensor shows a falsely low temperature)
• 🔥 Insufficient cooling (the sensor shows a falsely high temperature)
• 🔄 Do not switch between modes

How to check the sensor:

1. Find the sensor (usually located on the evaporator or in the freezer).
2. Disconnect the connector and measure the resistance with a multimeter. At room temperature (~25°C), the resistance should be about 5–10 kOhm (for exact values, see the technical data sheet).
3. Warm the sensor with your hand or cool it with ice - the resistance should change smoothly.

If the resistance does not change or is zero/infinity, the sensor is faulty. Replacement will cost 800–2000 rubles (depending on the model).

6. Compressor malfunction

If the compressor is worn out or broken, it may:

• 🔇 Not start at all (the refrigerator is silent)
• 🔄 Work jerkily (turns on for a few seconds and stalls)
• 🔥 Overheat and shut down due to thermal protection

Reason:

• 🕰️ Natural wear (service life - 10–15 years)
• 💥 Interturn short circuit in windings
• 🛢️ Lack of oil or contamination

Diagnostics:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and touch the compressor - if it is scalding hot, this is a sign of overheating.
2. Call winding tester:
   • Resistance between C (common terminal) and S (start winding) - 20–30 Ohm.
   • Resistance between C and R (working winding) - 10–15 Ohm.
   • The resistance between S and R is the sum of the two previous values.

If the resistance is equal zero or infinity, the compressor is faulty.

Repairing the compressor is not cost-effective - it is replaced with a new one (cost - from 4,000 to 10,000 rubles including work). For refrigerators Stinol or Nord compressors are suitable Danfoss NL6 or Secop (DWM).

7. Problems with the No Frost system

In refrigerators No Frost (for example, Bosch KGN39XL20 or Electrolux ENN2853AOW) not only the compressor is responsible for switching modes, but also fan, defrost heater and timer. If the system fails, you will notice:

• ❄️ Ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer
• 🔇 The fan does not work (no air noise)
• 🔥 The refrigerator does not cool, but the compressor works

Frequent breakdowns:

• 🔥 The defrost heater burned out (the ice does not melt, it blocks fan)
• ⏱️ Defrost timer is broken (the system freezes in cooling mode)
• 🌀 The fan does not work (check if it is blocked by ice or foreign objects)

How to fix:

1. Defreeze refrigerator for 12–24 hours (sometimes this temporarily solves the problem).
2. Check the fan: if it does not spin, the motor may be burned out or blocked by ice.
3. Ring the defrost heater: the resistance should be 200–500 Ohms. If infinity, the heater has burned out.

Replacing a heater or timer will cost 1,500–3,000 rubles. The fan costs less - 800–1500 rubles.

What to do if the refrigerator does not switch: step-by-step algorithm

Before calling a technician, follow these steps:

1. Check the power supply: make sure that the outlet works (connect another device), whether there are any interruptions electricity.
2. Defrost the refrigerator: sometimes ice blocks the sensors or the fan (relevant for No Frost).
3. Reset the settings: unplug the refrigerator for 10 minutes, then turn it on again. This may reset the electronic errors. unit.
4. Check the thermostat: if the refrigerator does not turn off, it is most likely to blame.
5. Inspect the compressor: if it does not start or gets very hot, the problem is in the relay or the compressor itself.
6. Diagnose the sensors: in models with a display, errors E1, F2 or H often indicate a faulty sensor.

If after these steps the problem remains, contact a specialist. Malfunctions related to the freon, compressor or electronic unit require professional repair.

⚠️ Attention: If your refrigerator is under warranty, do not disassemble it yourself! Contact the brand's service center.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about malfunctions. refrigerator

The refrigerator works without stopping and does not turn off. What should I do?

Most likely the problem is thermostat or temperature sensor. Also check if the “Super Freezing” or “Quick Cooling” mode is set. worn out compressor or freon needs to be refilled.

The refrigerator turns on for a few seconds and turns off. reason?

This is a typical sign of a faulty relay. startup or turn-to-turn short circuit in the compressorrelay. You can replace the relay yourself (cost: 500–1500 rubles), you will need to replace it (from 4000 rubles).

The refrigerator display shows error E1. What does this mean?

Error E1 (or F1, H) usually indicates a problem c temperature sensor. Try turning off the refrigerator for 10 minutes - sometimes this resets the error. If this does not help, the sensor needs to be replaced.

The No Frost refrigerator does not cool, but the compressor works?

In the systems No Frost most often they fail:

• 🌀 Fan (check if ice is blocking it)
• 🔥 Defrost heater (check with a multimeter)
• ⏱️ Defrost timer (maybe “freeze” in one mode)

Defrost the refrigerator for 24 hours - if the problem returns, call a technician.

Is it possible to fill the refrigerator with freon yourself?

No. To fill freon you need special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure manifold) and a certificate for it. working with refrigerants. Self-refilling is dangerous to health and can lead to even more serious damage.