The situation when the fridge compartment in the Indesit refrigerator suddenly stops working, and the freezer continues to freeze, is one of the most common and alarming for owners of household appliances. You open the door in the hope of getting food, but instead of coolness you are greeted by room warmth, while everything in the freezer is still frozen. This phenomenon is typical for two-chamber models with one compressor, where the cold is distributed unevenly or the circulation is impaired.
The first thing to do is not to panic and do not try to immediately disassemble the unit, armed with wrenches. It is important to carry out an initial diagnosis to understand the scale of the problem: whether it is a simple operating error or a serious technical malfunction refrigeration circuit. Often the reason lies in simple things, such as broken settings or a tight seal, but ignoring the problem can lead to damage to products and expensive repairs.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons for the failure of the upper chamber, methods for identifying them and action algorithms. You will learn how to distinguish a breakdown thermostat from a refrigerant leak and when you really need to call a repairman. Understanding the operating principles of your model Indesit will help save time and money, and also extend the life of the device.
Violation of the temperature regime and settings
The most commonplace, but common reason for the lack of cold in the upper compartment is incorrectly set operating parameters. If you recently defrosted the refrigerator, washed it, or simply touched the control panel, the settings may have gone wrong. In models with electronic control, one accidental press is enough to cooling mode go to the "vacation" or minimum power state.
Check the display or the position of the temperature regulator. In some Indesit models with mechanical control, the thermostat slider could move to the “minimum” or “0” position. In electronic versions, the fast freezing mode could be activated, which, paradoxically, sometimes blocks the supply of cold to the upper chamber for a certain time, directing the entire compressor resource to the freezer. It is critically important to check whether the alarm indicator or defrost symbol on the control panel is lit.
It is also worth considering the influence of external factors. If the refrigerator is located next to a radiator, stove, or in direct sunlight, the sensors may not correctly read the temperature inside the chambers. The control system “thinks” that it’s already warm inside and does not turn on the compressor at full power, or, conversely, operates in emergency mode. Check whether the door closes tightly, as even a slight misalignment can break the seal.
Malfunctions of the defrost system and clogged drainage
If the refrigerator has been operating for several years without interruption, there is a high probability of problems with the No Frost system or drip defrosting. In models with the system No Frost cold is supplied to the refrigerator compartment through special channels from the freezer. If these channels become clogged with ice due to a malfunction of the defrost heater or timer, air circulation stops.
In this case, the evaporator in the freezer becomes overgrown with a “fur coat”, the fan hums, but no air flows to the upper part. You may hear the fan humming, but there will be no cold. This is a classic symptom of a failed defrost heating element, defrost sensor or fuse. In drip models, the problem may lie in a clogged drainage hole through which water should flow. If it is clogged with crumbs or mold, the water freezes, forming an ice plug that blocks the operation of the evaporator.
Diagnosis of this group of faults often requires partial disassembly of the back wall inside the freezer or refrigerator compartment. It is necessary to visually assess the amount of ice on the evaporator. If you see a massive piece of ice blocking the ducts, the defrost system is not functioning correctly. Replacing defrost heater or the timer usually solves the problem.
⚠️ Attention: If you find an ice build-up on the evaporator, do not try to break it off with a knife or sharp objects. Damage to the evaporator tubes will lead to an immediate leak of freon and expensive repairs with replacement of the circuit.
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (thermostat) is the “brain” that commands the compressor to turn on or off. If it fails, the refrigerator may simply not know that the chamber has become warm. Older Indesit models use mechanical thermostats, in which the sensitivity of the bellows weakens over time or the contacts oxidize. In modern models, this role is played by electronic temperature sensors.
If the mechanical thermostat malfunctions, the compressor either does not turn on at all, or works without stopping, freezing everything around, but not giving cold to the desired zone due to desynchronization. Electronic sensors may provide erroneous readings to the control board. For example, a sensor may “tell” the controller that the temperature in the chamber is -5°C, although in fact it is +15°C. Naturally, the compressor will not turn on.
Diagnostics of the thermostat at home is only possible if you have a multimeter. It is necessary to “ring” the thermostat contacts at different temperatures. For electronic sensors, their resistance is checked, which should change depending on heating or cooling. If the resistance does not change or is equal to zero/infinity, the part must be replaced.
How to check a mechanical thermostat?
To check a mechanical thermostat, it must be removed and placed in the cold (for example, outside in winter or in the freezer, if the design allows) for 15-20 minutes. After this, the contacts should “click” and complete the circuit. If there is no click and the continuity shows a break, the thermostat is faulty.
Refrigerant leak and capillary system clogged
One of the most serious reasons why the refrigerator compartment does not work is a freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack forms in the tubes (often due to corrosion or vibration), the gas gradually escapes. If there is a partial leak, the compressor continues to work, trying to gain temperature, but there is not enough temperature for two chambers. Usually, it is the upper compartment that stops cooling first.
The second option is a clogged capillary tube. Inside the thin tube where freon throttling occurs, a plug may form from the breakdown products of oil or moisture. This prevents normal refrigerant circulation. The pressure in the system drops and the cold does not reach the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber. This can be diagnosed by a characteristic feature: (the grille at the back or on the sides) will be cold or warm only partially, and not hot over the entire area, as it should be.
Repair in this case requires professional intervention. It is necessary to find the location of the leak (often a foamed circuit or pipe joints), solder it, evacuate the system and fill it with new freon. It is impossible to perform these operations independently without equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station).
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm | Freon leak/clogging | Works constantly or does not turn off for a long time | High (needs a technician) |
| Both chambers are warm, quiet | Thermostat / Board is faulty | Does not turn on at all | Medium (part replacement) |
| Fan noise, no cold | Evaporator frozen (No Frost) | Works cyclically | Medium (replacement of heating element/timer) |
| Ice coat in one chamber | Loose door fit | Works in enhanced mode | Low (adjustment) |
Malfunction of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. If it does not work correctly, the entire system is disrupted. However, if the freezer is working, it means that the compressor is technically working and is pumping freon. But there are situations when its power is not enough due to worn out piston rings or valves. In this case, the pressure in the system is insufficient, and the cold “does not reach” the remote evaporator of the refrigeration chamber.
It is also worth paying attention to the compressor start relay. If it is burnt or stuck, the compressor may hum, twitch, but not start fully, or work intermittently. In some cases, the relay may turn off the compressor ahead of time, preventing the system from returning to operating mode. You can check the relay visually (for the presence of burning) or by replacing it with a known good one.
It is important to listen to the sounds of the operating unit. A steady hum is a sign of normal operation. Knocking, clanging, intermittent humming with clicks indicate problems with the motor or its electrical wiring. If the compressor is hot but there is no cold, this is an alarming sign of overload or mechanical wear.
⚠️ Attention: If the compressor runs very hot and turns off after a short time (the thermal relay clicks), do not try to start it again and again. Let it cool and contact a specialist, as there is a high risk of complete combustion of the motor windings.
The influence of the quality of seals and tightness
Even a working refrigerator will not keep the cold if the seal of the chamber is broken. The rubber seal on the door loses its elasticity over time, cracks or becomes deformed. Through the resulting cracks, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The cooling system tries to compensate for heat loss, working for wear, but at some point its power ceases to be enough, and the temperature in the upper chamber rises.
You can check the seal with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet of paper with the door around the entire perimeter. If the paper is pulled out easily, without resistance, it means that the seal does not fit in this place. Also pay attention to the door hinges: if they become loose, the door warps and the seal is broken in the upper or lower part of the opening.
Adjusting the hinges or replacing the sealing rubber is a procedure that can be done with your own hands. It is important to choose the right seal model for your Indesits, since the geometry of the corners may differ between different series. Sometimes it is enough to simply wash and lubricate the seal with silicone to restore its elasticity.
How to restore the elasticity of the seal?
If the rubber has no breaks, but has become hard, you can try warming it with a hairdryer (without overheating!) or lubricating it with Vaseline oil. In some cases, soaking the seal in hot water for several minutes helps, after which it is installed in place.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does ice freeze in the Indesit refrigerator compartment, but there is no cold?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system (for No. Frost) or air circulation problems. Ice blocks the channels through which cold air should enter the chamber. It is necessary to defrost the refrigerator and check the defrost heating element, timer or sensor.
How long should the refrigerator cool down after defrosting?
After complete defrosting (minimum 24 hours), the refrigerator requires 2 to 4 hours of operation to reach the set temperature in the refrigerator compartment. If the temperature does not drop below +10°C within 5-6 hours, it means there is a technical malfunction.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not work?
For a short time - yes, the food can be transferred to the freezer. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which will work non-stop, trying to reach temperature. In addition, bacteria will begin to multiply in the warm chamber.
Why did the refrigerator stop cooling again after a month after replacing the freon?
This means that the cause of the leak was not eliminated. The craftsmen could simply add gas without finding a microcrack. The leak continued and the freon came out again. High-quality troubleshooting of the circuit and soldering are required.
The alarm indicator is on, but the food is cold. What to do?
Perhaps the temperature sensor is faulty and transmits false signals, or there was a power surge. Try to reset the error by unplugging the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes. If the error repeats, the sensor needs to be replaced.