The situation when a two-chamber refrigerator Atlant stops freezing food in the lower compartment is one of the most common complaints from the owners of this equipment. Users often notice that the temperature in the main chamber remains normal, but in the freezer the ice melts and the meat begins to spoil. This can happen suddenly or develop gradually when the unit simply stops gaining the required degrees.
There can be many reasons for this behavior of equipment: from a simple failure in the electronics to a serious refrigerant leak. It is important to understand that two-chamber models, especially those with the No Frostsystem, are more complex than the old single-chamber “boxes”. Here, air circulation, the operation of fans and sensors are strictly regulated by the program, and the failure of any element disrupts the entire cooling cycle.
Before calling a technician, it is worth conducting initial diagnostics to eliminate simple operating errors. Sometimes the problem is solved by defrosting or replacing the power cable, but in most cases intervention in the “insides” of the device is required. Below we will analyze in detail the main breakdown scenarios and methods for eliminating them.
Problems with tightness and defrosting mode
The most commonplace, but often ignored reason for the lack of cold is a violation of the tightness or lack of scheduled maintenance. If you haven't defrosted your refrigerator in a while, a layer of ice may have formed on the evaporator, blocking the circulation of cold air. In models Atlant with manual defrosting of the lower compartment, this is critical: the layer of ice acts as a heat insulator, preventing cold from penetrating the food.
It is also worth checking the rubber seals on the freezer door. Over time, they dry out, crack, or simply move away from the body. Through the formed cracks, warm air enters inside, causing the compressor to work hard, but not reach the desired temperature. Circuit tightness is the foundation for the normal operation of any refrigeration machine.
☑️ Diagnosis of tightness and defrosting
Attention ⚠️: If after complete defrosting (at least a day with the doors open) the refrigerator turned on and began to freeze, but a week later the situation repeated itself, then the problem is deeper. Perhaps the drainage hole is clogged or the defrosting heating element is out of order.
Users often forget that even systems No Frost require preventive defrosting at least once a year. The accumulation of odors and microbes in the hidden cavities of the evaporator can also indirectly affect the efficiency of heat transfer.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The heart of the refrigerator is the compressor. If you hear the engine humming, trying to start, clicking and turning off, but there is no cold, most likely the problem is in the start protection relay or the compressor itself. In double-chamber ones Atlantakh two compressors are often used (separately for the chamber and freezer) or one with a solenoid valve. If only the freezer is not working, but the main unit is cooling, this narrows the search.
The starting relay is a small part that provides an impulse to start the motor. It often fails due to power surges. Replacing a relay is a simple and inexpensive procedure. However, if after replacing the relay the compressor hums but does not start, or it is silent and does not heat up, the motor winding may have burned out or an interturn short circuit has occurred turn-to-turn short circuit.
How to check the compressor without tools?
Disconnect the refrigerator from the network. Remove the rear casing. Disconnect the start relay. Shake it: if you hear a ringing sound (like a pebble), it means that the bulb inside is broken and the relay is faulty. You can also test the windings with a multimeter if you have electrical skills.
It is important to note that replacing a compressor is a complex process that requires evacuation of the system and charging with freon. It is almost impossible to perform this operation independently without professional equipment.
If the compressor runs continuously without turning off, but the temperature in the freezer is above -12°C, this may indicate a loss of motor performance. It pumps, but does not create the necessary pressure in the system.
Refrigerant leak and clogged capillary tube
One of the most unpleasant breakdowns is a freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack appears in the tubes or evaporator, the gas escapes. As a result, the pressure in the system drops and the cold ceases to be produced in the required volume. In two-chamber models Atlant leakage often occurs in the foamed part of the housing (internal circuit) or in the aluminum evaporator, which is susceptible to corrosion.
Leakage symptoms are often accompanied by overheating of the condenser (grid at the back) only in the initial part or, conversely, by its complete coldness. The compressor can operate without stopping. Another option is Clogged capillary tube. An ice or oil blockage could form in the system, which physically blocks the circulation of freon.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Characteristic symptom |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is silent | Open circuit or burnt out motor | No vibration, silence |
| Buzzing and clicking | Faulty start relay | Cyclic clicks every 10-20 seconds |
| Works constantly, no cold | Freon leakage | Warm condenser, hot compressor |
| Little freezing, freezing ice | Clogged capillary | Bloating of the housing in the area of the evaporator |
To eliminate the leak, you need to find the location of the damage (often using nitrogen pressure testing), solder it or replace the evaporator, and then refill the system. This is a job for the service center.
Failures in the defrost system (for No Frost models)
If you have a modern Atlant with system No Frost, then a whole unit is responsible for removing moisture and defrosting the evaporator: heating element (heater), defrost sensor and timer (or electronic module). If one of these elements breaks, the evaporator becomes overgrown with ice, the fan cannot drive air through the ice mess, and the cold stops flowing into the chamber.
Most often, the defrost heating element itself burns out. It is a tube built into the evaporator. You can check it with a multimeter for resistance. Also, the defrost sensor often fails, which should signal the control module to turn on the heating. If the sensor “lies,” the heating never turns on.
Attention ⚠️: Operating a refrigerator with a faulty defrosting system leads to ice blocking the fan blades. This may cause the fan motor to break down or cause a loud noise or crackling sound when operating.
Diagnostics of the No Frost system requires partial disassembly of the freezer to access the evaporator. A visual inspection often shows the presence of a large amount of ice where there should not be.
Faults in the electronic control module
Modern two-chamber refrigerators Atlant are controlled electronically. The control board receives signals from temperature sensors and regulates the operation of the compressor, fans and valves. Power surges, moisture, or manufacturing defects can damage the module. In this case, the refrigerator may behave chaotically: turn on and off spontaneously, not maintain the temperature, or show an error on the display (if there is one).
Often the problem lies not in the board itself, but in thermostat or temperature sensor. If the sensor is “stuck” and shows that the chamber is already -30°C, the control module simply will not give the command to cool. Replacing a sensor is a quick procedure, but requires precise selection of an analogue with the same resistance.
In some cases, resetting the error (hard reset) helps. To do this, you need to unplug the refrigerator from the outlet for 10-15 minutes and then turn it on again. If the problem was a software failure, work may improve.
Atlant error codes
Many models display errors by flashing indicators. For example, a flashing “H” indicator may indicate a high temperature, while a series of flashes may indicate a specific sensor malfunction. Always look for decoding of codes in the instructions for your specific model.
The influence of external factors and operating conditions
The cause of a breakdown does not always lie inside the unit. A refrigerator is a heat pump that transfers heat from inside to outside. If it is installed near the battery, in direct sunlight or in a niche without clearance for ventilation, its performance drops critically. The compressor simply does not have time to cool down and goes into protection or works with overload.
The temperature regime in the room is also important. Most refrigerators Atlant are designed to operate in climate class SN-N (from +10 to +32°C). If the room is colder than +10°C (for example, in an unheated country house in winter), the oil in the compressor thickens and it may not start. If it is hotter than +32°C, the system cannot cope with heat transfer.
Another factor is the quality of the power supply. Unstable voltage leads to frequent controller reboots and wear of the starting equipment. Installing a voltage stabilizer can extend the life of your equipment.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why the freezer is not freezing, but everything is fine in the main chamber?
In two-chamber models with one compressor, this often indicates a malfunction of the solenoid valve that switches the circuits, or a freon leak in the freezer circuit. It is also possible that the capillary tube leading to the freezer evaporator is clogged.
You can hear the sound of pouring water, but there is no cold - what is it?
This sound is made by freon passing through the system at low load or leakage. If the compressor is hot and the grille at the back is cold, most likely there is a refrigerant leak.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it has stopped freezing?
For a short time - yes, if you have unloaded the food. But keeping it turned on for a long time in the event of a malfunction (especially if there is a leak or blockage) is dangerous: the compressor will work without stopping and may burn out completely, which will make repairs economically unfeasible.
How often does Atlant No Frost need to be defrosted?
Technically, the No Frost system does not require defrosting to work. However, for hygiene and to prevent the appearance of unpleasant odors, it is recommended to defrost and wash the refrigerator at least once every 6-12 months.
Why does the refrigerator not turn on after defrosting?
Perhaps the start relay has not dried out or moisture has gotten on the contacts. Let the device stand turned off for a few more hours. If it doesn’t help, the thermostat or control module may have failed.