The situation when the food in the refrigerator compartment is fresh, but everything in the freezer compartment begins to melt, causes panic. This is a classic symptom of a cooling system malfunction that requires immediate attention. Often, equipment owners notice the problem too late, when the meat or fish has already lost its properties, and the ice has turned into water.
The reason lies in the fact that refrigerant circulation or the freezing process is not going according to plan. In two-chamber models, the cold is generated in one place and distributed across different compartments, so a breakdown in one circuit may not affect the other. Understanding the operating principle of your model will help you quickly determine the source of the malfunction.
You should not immediately call a technician, since in 30% of cases the problem can be diagnosed independently. We will look at the main failure scenarios, from a banal thermostat sticking to a serious freon leak, and explain how to distinguish one from the other without special equipment.
Diagnostics of the No Frost and drip defrosting system
Modern units are most often equipped with a system No Frostwhere a fan circulates cold air for both departments. If the fan stops or the air supply channel is clogged, the freezer will stop cooling, although the main compartment can maintain temperature due to inertia or residual cold.
In models with a drip system (“crying” evaporator), the situation is different. Here, each compartment can have its own circuit or its own thermostat. If the compressor turns on, but the freezer is warm, the temperature sensor of this particular zone may have failed or there has been a failure in the electronic control module.
It is important to listen to the operation of the motor. If it hums constantly without turning off, but there is no cold, this is a sign of a leak or compressor failure. If the motor is silent, although the refrigerator is warm, the problem may be in the start relay or thermostat.
For an accurate diagnosis, system owners No Frost should check the condition of the fan. Sometimes its blades freeze to the ice, and the motor simply cannot turn over. In such cases, after complete defrosting, the equipment begins to work properly again.
The main reasons for freezer failure when the refrigerator is running
The list of potential malfunctions is long, but most often specific mechanical or electrical failures occur. Understanding the physics of the process helps to eliminate unnecessary options. For example, if the compressor works but does not create pressure, then the problem is in its internal mechanics or the lack of freon.
One of the common reasons is clogged capillary tube. At the point of narrowing, an ice plug forms from the moisture contained in the refrigerant. It cuts off the freon flow, and it does not reach the evaporator of the freezer. In this case, the compressor itself can operate normally, trying to push through the system.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear gurgling or hissing inside the housing after stopping the motor, this is a sure sign of a leak or blockage. Do not try to pierce the tube with sharp objects - this will lead to complete failure of the system.
Another common problem is malfunction compressor. It may start, but not develop the required power to compress the gas. In this case, the pressure is only enough to cool the first circuit (refrigerator), and the cold simply does not reach the second circuit (freezer).
Also, failure of the sensors cannot be ruled out. The electronics receive incorrect temperature data and do not give a command to cool the freezer. This often happens after power surges in the network, when the control module burns out or the contacts oxidize.
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (or thermostat) is the “brain” that decides when to turn the compressor on and off. In older models it is a mechanical knob, in new ones it is an electronic sensor. If it “lies” and shows that it is already -20°C in the freezer, although it is 0°C there, the compressor simply will not turn on.
In two-compressor models, each compartment is responsible for its own independent thermostat. If only the freezer does not work, but the refrigerator functions normally, it means that it is the freezer control circuit that has failed. In single-compressor models, there is usually only one thermostat, and its failure affects the entire system.
Checking the thermostat often requires testing with a multimeter, but there are also traditional methods. You can gently heat the sensor (not with an open fire, but with the warmth of your hands or a hairdryer on low) and listen for a click. Lack of response indicates the need to replace the part.
Is it possible to temporarily remove the thermostat?
Technically, it is possible to close the contacts so that the compressor runs constantly. But this will lead to deep freezing of food and possible freezing of the evaporator, which is dangerous for the system. Use this method only for a short-term hypothesis test.
Electronic temperature sensors are more sensitive to moisture. If there was a lot of ice in the chamber, which then melted, water could get onto the board or into the connectors. This causes a short circuit or signal distortion, causing the equipment to go into emergency mode.
Refrigerant leakage and system blockages
This is the most serious and expensive problem. Freon is the working fluid of the refrigerator, and without it heat exchange is impossible. Leaks often occur in places where pipes are soldered or due to corrosion of the evaporator, especially if it was cleaned from ice with sharp objects.
When there is a leak, the symptoms increase gradually. First, the freezer begins to freeze worse, then the food begins to thaw, and the compressor works non-stop, trying to gain temperature. Ultimately, the cold disappears completely, remaining only near the evaporator of the refrigeration compartment.
Clogging of the system occurs less frequently, usually after poor-quality repairs, when moisture or dirt has entered the system. Copper oxide or ice plug blocks the narrow channel. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor is hot, the condenser is only partially warm, but there is no cold.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is silent, there is light | Thermostat or start relay is faulty | Low |
| The motor hums, but does not start | The compressor is jammed or the starter is burned out | High |
| Works constantly, no cold | Freon leak or capillary blockage | High |
| It’s warm in the freezer, normal in the refrigerator | Problem with the fan (No Frost) or sensor | Average |
To eliminate a leak or blockage, you need to call a specialist with equipment for vacuuming and filling. It is impossible to independently restore the tightness of the circuit without special tools.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. If it fails, the entire system stops. However, often it is not the “heart” itself that is to blame, but its “starter” - the starting relay. This is a small part that provides the impulse to start the motor. If the relay is burned out, the compressor will hum for a couple of seconds and click, but will not start.
Replacing the start relay is one of the simplest operations. You need to remove the back cover, disconnect the chip and replace the part with a similar one. It is important to select a relay with the correct parameters corresponding to the power of your compressor.
If the problem is in the compressor itself (turn-to-turn winding short circuit or mechanical wear of the piston group), then repair is often not economically feasible. A new motor is expensive, and replacing it requires skilled soldering and refilling with freon.
Pay attention to the temperature of the motor housing. If it is too hot to touch, it is a sign of overload or lubrication problems. In such cases, operation of the equipment must be stopped immediately to avoid a fire.
What to do: step-by-step instructions
If you find that the freezer is not working, do not panic and act consistently. First you need to save the food by moving it to another place or covering it with snow, if possible. Then proceed to diagnostics.
The first step is complete defrosting. Even if you No Frost, leave the refrigerator turned off for 10-12 hours with the doors open. This will eliminate the problem with an ice plug in the defrost system.
☑️ Primary diagnostic algorithm
After switching on, carefully monitor the behavior of the equipment. If after 2-3 hours of operation of the compressor the walls of the freezer do not become cold, and the tubes at the back do not heat up evenly, the problem is more serious than just ice.
Check the tightness of the door. If the rubber band seal is worn out or dirty, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The compressor does not have time to freeze the incoming moisture, and as a result, an ice coat is formed that blocks the cold.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use sharp objects (knives, screwdrivers) to chip ice inside the chambers. Damage to the internal circuit of the evaporator will lead to an immediate release of freon and will require expensive repairs from a technician.
When you need to call a professional technician
There are a number of situations when self-repair is not only useless, but also dangerous. If you detect a freon leak (oily stains near the tubes, a characteristic odor), professional sealing and vacuuming of the system is required.
Replacing a compressor or capillary tube is also a complex repair. This requires accurate calculation of the amount of refrigerant and the use of nitrogen for purging. An error in the dosage of freon will lead either to insufficient cooling or to breakdown of the compressor.
A master is also needed if the problem lies in the electronic control module. Resoldering capacitors or replacing microcircuits requires skills in working with a soldering iron and circuitry. An attempt to “cure” the board by hitting it or heating it with a hairdryer often finishes off the electronics completely.
Why did the freezer stop freezing after defrosting?
Most often the reason is that the system did not have time to reach the mode. After a long defrost, the refrigerator takes 4 to 8 hours to reach temperature. If more time has passed, you may have damaged the wiring during defrosting or moisture got into the system, causing a blockage.
Can you use a refrigerator if the freezer is not freezing?
For a short time - yes, if you only need the refrigerator compartment. However, the compressor will work harder, trying to reach a non-existent temperature, which can cause it to overheat and burn out. It is better to turn off the equipment before repair.
How to check if the compressor is working without disassembling the refrigerator?
Put your hand on the rear grille (condenser) or side walls. If they are warm or hot, but the inside is cold, the compressor is running. If the grill is cold, but inside is warm, the compressor does not start or there is no freon in the system.
How much does a repair cost if you need to replace freon?
The cost depends on the model and region, but refilling with freon and finding a leak usually makes up a significant part of the repair price. It is often cheaper and more reliable to replace the entire assembly (for example, a foamed evaporator) than to look for a micro-crack in the foamed part of the body.