Why one chamber of the refrigerator does not work: breakdowns and solutions

Did you open the refrigerator and find that in one of the chambers - the refrigeration or freezer - the temperature is far from normal? The food is spoiling, the ice is melting, and the compressor is running non-stop or, on the contrary, is silent? This problem is familiar to many owners of two-chamber models Atlant, Samsung, Indesit and other brands. In 80% of cases, the malfunction can be fixed on your own, without resorting to expensive repairs.

In this article we will look 7 main reasonswhy one fridge compartment may fail, while the other may work normally. You will learn how to check the thermostat, temperature sensor and fan, when the freon leak is to blame, and when the problem lies in the electronics. For each breakdown, we will provide step-by-step instructions with photos and videos, and also indicate in which cases clogged capillary tube or freon leak, and when the problem lies in the electronics. For each breakdown, we will provide step-by-step instructions with photos and videos, and also indicate in which cases You cannot try to repair the refrigerator yourself - this can lead to complete failure of the equipment.

Immediately Please note: if your refrigerator is under warranty, any independent intervention will void it. In this case, it is better to call a technician from the service center. For the rest - forward to diagnosis!

1. Capillary tube clogged: why one chamber does not freeze

The capillary tube is a thin copper channel through which freon flows from the condenser to the evaporator. If it becomes clogged oil, moisture or mechanical particles, the refrigerant stops circulating in one of the circuits (usually the freezer). As a result, the compressor wears out, but the cold does not flow.

How to understand that the blockage is to blame?

• 🔊 The compressor hums non-stop, but one chamber does not cool.
• ❄️ A “snow cap” may appear on the back wall in the freezer, and condensation may appear in the refrigerator compartment.
• 📉 The temperature in the idle chamber gradually increases, despite the maximum settings.

It will be necessary to remove the blockage blowing the system using special equipment (nitrogen station). This is not the case when you can get by with improvised means. However, you can try defrost the refrigerator for 24 hours —sometimes this helps with minor blockages.

⚠️ Attention: if after defrosting the problem returns within a week, do not delay visiting a technician. Prolonged operation of the compressor "dry" leads to its overheating and breakdown, the repair cost of which is commensurate with the price of a new refrigerator.

2. Freon leak: signs and what to do

Freon is a refrigerant that circulates through the system and provides cooling. If a microcrack appears somewhere in the circuit (most often in the soldering areas or on the evaporator), the gas gradually evaporates. The freezer stops working first, since it is usually connected to the circuit after the refrigeration one.

Signs of a freon leak:

• 🛠️ The compressor turns on for 5-10 seconds and immediately turns off (overheating protection is triggered).
• 🧊 There is no frost on the back wall of the refrigerator, although there used to be one.
• 🔥 The refrigerator body at the bottom (near the compressor) is hot at touch.

It is impossible to eliminate the leak on your own - it requires soldering the circuit refilling freon. However, you can check for a leak using a soap solution:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the mains.
2. Apply soap solution to suspicious areas (soldering joints, pipe bends).
3. If bubbles appear, this is the place leaks.

Why is a freon leak dangerous?

Freon is non-toxic to humans, but its leak leads to two serious problems: 1) The compressor runs idle and quickly fails. 2) Moisture enters the system, which accelerates corrosion of copper tubes and leads to new leaks.

3. Failure of the thermostat or temperature sensor

The thermostat (or electronic sensor in modern models) is responsible for turning the compressor on/off depending on the temperature. If it breaks, one of the chambers may stop cooling or, conversely, freeze food.

How to check the thermostat:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the thermostat protective cover (usually located inside the chamber or on the top panel).
3. Short the two wires going to the thermostat to each other (use a screwdriver with an insulated handle!).
4. If the compressor starts working after turning on the refrigerator, the thermostat is faulty.

In electronic refrigerators (for example, LG DoorCool+ or Samsung Twin Cooling) instead of a mechanical thermostat, thermistoris used. It is checked with a multimeter:

• 🔧 Set the resistance measurement mode (20 kOhm).
• 📊 At room temperature, the sensor resistance should be ~5–7 kOhm.
• 🧊 Place the sensor in ice - the resistance should increase to 25–30 kOhm.

⚠️ Attention: in refrigerators with a system No Frost temperature sensors are often duplicated. If you replace only one, the second camera may not work correctly. Check all sensors in the circuit!

4. Fan malfunction No Frost

In refrigerators with a system No Frost the fan is responsible for circulating cold air. If it breaks, one of the chambers (usually the freezer) stops cooling, while the second continues to work. Reasons for fan failure:

• 🧊 Icing of the blades (due to a faulty defrost heating element).
• 🔌 Motor winding burnout.
• 🛠️ Mechanical damage (for example, from falling products).

How to check the fan:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the back panel in the freezer (usually secured with latches or screws).
3. Try turning the fan blades by hand. If they do not rotate, the problem is in the bearing or ice.
4. Connect the refrigerator to the network and listen: if the fan does not start, but voltage is applied to it (checked with a multimeter), it means it is burned out.

Check whether the blades rotate manually|Inspect for the presence of ice|Test the winding with a multimeter (resistance ~200–500 Ohm)|Check the power at the fan connector-->

If the fan is frozen, defrost the refrigerator for 12–24 hours. If the problem is in the engine, replacement will be required. For models Samsung and LG fans are often unified, they can be found by art. number (for example DA97-06483A for Samsung).

5. Failure of the compressor or start relay

The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator. If it fails, one or both chambers stop cooling. However, it happens that the compressor works, but does not create the required pressure in the circuit. In this case, the refrigerator compartment can still somehow cool, but the freezer compartment cannot.

Signs of problems with the compressor:

• 🔇 The compressor hums, but does not start (protection is triggered).
• 🔥 The compressor housing gets very hot (more than 70°C).
• 📉 The suction pressure is below normal (for R134a it should be ~0.1–0.3 bar).

Check first start relay - it often fails due to voltage surges. The relay is located next to the compressor in a black plastic case. To check it:

1. Remove the relay and shake it. If something rattles inside, it is faulty.
2. Test the coil with a multimeter (resistance ~10–30 Ohms).

If the relay is working properly, but the compressor does not start, most likely it has burned out. In this case, replacement will be required, which costs 50–70% of the cost of a new refrigerator. For models older than 10 years, repairs are usually not cost-effective.

6. Problems with electronics: control board and wiring

In modern refrigerators, electronic control boardis responsible for the operation of the chambers. If it fails, one of the cameras may turn off and an error will appear on the display (for example, E1, Er FF or OF OF). Frequent reasons:

• ⚡ Power surge in the network.
• 💧 Moisture on the board (for example, during defrosting).
• 🛠️ Short circuit in the circuit sensors.

How to diagnose a problem with electronics:

1. Look at the error code on the display and check the instructions.
2. Turn off the refrigerator for 5 minutes, then turn it on again. If the error disappears, the problem was a software failure.
3. Inspect the board for blackened elements, swollen capacitors or traces of oxidation.

If the board is burned out, you can try to repair it (resolder the capacitors, replace the relay) or replace it with a new one. For popular models (Indesit, Beko, Bosch), boards cost from 3,000 to 8,000 rubles. Please note that after replacement, you may need firmware (for example, in refrigerators Samsung with a system Twin Cooling Plus).

⚠️ Attention: if you do not have experience with a soldering iron and a multimeter, do not try to repair the board yourself. Soldering errors can lead to a short circuit and fire.

7. Mechanical faults: door, seal, damper

Sometimes the problem lies not in complex electronics, but in trivial things: for example:

• 🚪 The door does not close tightly due to skewed hinges or. wear of the seal. As a result, warm air enters the chamber and it does not cool.
• 🔄 The damper between cameras (in models with one compressor) is stuck in the closed position. The cold does not enter the refrigeration chamber.
• 🧲 Magnetic seal lost elasticity and does not adhere to the body.

How to fix mechanical problems:

1. Check the seal: attach a sheet of paper to the door and close it. If the sheet is easily pulled out, a seal is needed. replace.
2. Adjust the hinges: loosen the screws on the top and bottom hinge, level the door.
3. Clean the damper: in models Samsung and LG the damper may jam due to ice. Defrost the refrigerator and lubricate the mechanism with silicone grease.

You can replace the seal yourself - they are sold by the meter or in ready-made kits for specific models. For example, for Atlant a sealant is suitable 53.2000.009, and for Indesit — C00188454.

FAQ: Frequent. questions about the refrigerator compartment not working

The freezer compartment works, but the refrigerator compartment does not. What is the reason?

In 90% of cases, this is due to damper failure (in models with one compressor) or fan malfunction (in No Frost systems). thermostat of the refrigeration chamber or freon leak in its circuit. Start by defrosting the refrigerator for 12 hours - if the problem does not disappear, check the fan and damper.

The refrigerator is constantly running and does not turn off. It’s freezing. What should I do?

This is a sign freon leakage or clogging of the capillary tube. The compressor is trying to get cold, but due to a lack of refrigerant or a blockage in the circuit, turn off the refrigerator and call a technician - you won’t be able to fix the problem yourself.

Error E1 (or Er FF) is displayed on the display. What does this mean?

Code E1 in most refrigerators (Samsung, LG, Beko) means problem with the temperature sensor. Er FF (in models LG) - fan malfunction. Try to defrost the refrigerator. If the error remains, check the sensors with a multimeter or replace the control board.

Can I refill it myself? refrigerator with freon?

Theoretically, yes, but in practice it is extremely dangerous. Refilling requires vacuum pump, pressure manifold (for example, R134a or R600a) An error in the dosage or moisture entering the system will lead to a repeated leak. freon cylinder (for example R134a or R600a). An error in dosage or moisture entering the system will lead to repeated leakage. It's better to leave it to the professionals.

How much does it cost to repair if one chamber does not work?

The cost depends on the reason:

• 🔧 Replacement of thermostat or sensor: RUB 1,500–3,000
• 🌀 Freon refilling + circuit soldering: RUB 3,500–6,000
• 🖥️ Repair/replacement of control board: 4 000–8,000 rub.
• ❄️ Replacing the No Frost fan: 2,000–4,000 rub.

If the refrigerator is more than 10 years old, repairs may be unprofitable - compare the cost with the price of new equipment.