The situation when the refrigerator stops freezing only in one cell often takes him by surprise and causes panic. You open the door, and there the food has already begun to spoil, while the other section is working properly. This behavior of the equipment is typical for two-chamber models with one compressor, where cooling occurs unevenly due to a disruption in the circulation of the refrigerant.
The reasons can vary from banal freezing of the evaporator to serious mechanical damage to the system. Understanding the principles of operation No Frost or a drip system will help you quickly navigate the problem. In this article, we will analyze in detail why temperature imbalance occurs and what steps need to be taken.
You should not immediately look for service center contacts, since in 30% of cases the problem can be diagnosed independently. However, let's figure out where your area of responsibility ends and the work of professionals begins.
Principles of operation of two-chamber cooling systems
To understand why the upper or lower chamber does not freeze, you need to briefly recall the physics of the process. In the classical scheme, freon, passing through the compressor, is compressed and heated, then cools in the condenser and enters the evaporator. It is there that it boils, taking heat from the internal space.
In models with one compressor, the refrigerant passes sequentially through both evaporators. First, it cools the freezer, where the temperature is lower, and then, less cold, it enters the refrigerator compartment. If the system is working correctly, the temperature difference is provided by thermostatic valves and defrost timers.
Violation of this balance leads to the fact that one part of the equipment operates as normal, while the other turns into a storage cabinet at room temperature. Most often, the problem lies in freon circulation or the operation of the defrost system. The control unit may “think” that the temperature has been reached and not start the compressor, although in reality the cold is distributed incorrectly.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear gurgling or hissing inside the walls, this may indicate movement of the oil and gas mixture, which often indicates a leak or blockage.
Main causes of malfunction in No Frost models
The system No Frost is more complex than a drip system, as it includes fans, defrosting heating elements and a complex air duct system. If half of the refrigerator does not work with this system, most often the fan or ice that has blocked the channels is to blame.
The fan forces cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment. If it stops due to icing of the blades or combustion of the winding, the cold stops flowing into the upper chamber. As a result, it is warm there, and there may be excess ice in the freezer.
Another common reason is a malfunction of the defrost system. The heating element, timer or defrost sensor may fail, which will lead to fouling of the evaporator. Ice blocks airflow, and cold air physically cannot penetrate into the refrigeration compartment.
- ❄️ The frozen air supply channel between the chambers completely blocks circulation.
- 🌀 Failure of the fan motor stops the distribution of cold.
- 🔥 Burnt heating element defrosting leads to critical accumulation of ice.
- 🌡️ A faulty defrost sensor does not give the command to defrost the evaporator.
How to check the fan without disassembling?
Open the doors of both chambers and listen. If the fan should stop when you open the refrigerator door (on some models), check this mechanism. If there is no noise at all, but there is a hum in the freezer, perhaps it simply does not spin.
Problems with refrigerant: leaks and blockages
If the chamber is warm, and the evaporator is clean and the fans are humming, the problem may lie in the quantity freon in the system. Leaks are the scourge of modern refrigerators, especially those that used aluminum or steel soldering. Microcracks in the foamed parts of the body or in the door heating circuit lead to the gradual disappearance of gas.
When freon leaks, the pressure in the system drops. The compressor works almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but there is no cold anywhere or only near the evaporator. In some cases, when there is critically little gas left, the freezer still somehow holds a minus, but in the refrigeration chamber there is already a plus.
A clogged capillary tube is another enemy of circulation. An ice plug (due to moisture) or blockage from compressor wear products may form in the system. This creates a situation where freon cannot pass beyond a certain point in the cycle.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Characteristic symptom |
|---|---|---|
| Heat in both chambers | Complete leak freon | The compressor is hot, but cold |
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm | Partial leak or blockage | The evaporator is unevenly covered with ice |
| Compressor buzzes and turns off | Capillary clogged | The sound of flowing liquid is heard |
| Cold only at the back wall | Lack of freon | Temperature rises to door |
Diagnostics of leaks requires special equipment, such as a leak detector or an ultraviolet lamp with a dye. Finding the gas outlet on your own is almost impossible, unless it is an obvious mechanical breakdown.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and electronics
Electronics are the brain of your refrigerator. If thermostat or the electronic control module fails, the equipment ceases to understand when to turn on the cooling. In older models with mechanical control, the capillary tube of the thermostat is responsible for this.
If the thermostat is “stuck” in the “off” position, the compressor will not start at all. If it is faulty and shows incorrect data (for example, that it is -10°C in the chamber, although it is +10°C), the cooling cycle simply will not start. In two-chamber models, an air damper sensor is often used, which regulates the flow of cold.
In models with electronic control (Full No Frost), problems may be associated with oxidation of contacts on the board or failure of sensors. A temperature reading error causes half of the unit to be ignored by the controller.
⚠️ Attention: Before replacing the thermostat, make sure that the problem is not in the wiring. Often the contacts simply oxidize or come off, especially in conditions of high humidity.
You can check the thermostat with a multimeter to see if the circuit “rings” when the temperature of the sensitive element changes. However, for electronic sensors (thermistors), resistance is more important, which changes nonlinearly, and without a table of values of a specific manufacturer Indesit, Atlant or Bosch it is difficult to diagnose them.
☑️ Diagnostics of the thermostat
Mechanical damage and wear of the compressor
The compressor is the heart of the system. If it works but doesn't create enough pressure, the cold will be weak or unevenly distributed. Wear of the piston group leads to a drop in performance, which is often perceived as “half of the refrigerator is not working.”
It is also worth checking the integrity of the rubber seals. If the door is warped or the rubber has dried out, warm air constantly flows inside. The ventilation system No Frost may not cope with the heat influx, creating the illusion of a breakdown, although the unit is technically in good working order.
Clogged filter drier is also a mechanical problem. It retains moisture and debris, but over time it itself becomes an obstacle to the flow of freon. This is the classic reason why the refrigerator hums, but does not freeze in full.
- 🔨 The compressor works, but does not pump (low compression).
- 🚪 The door does not fit tightly due to contamination or distortion.
- 🧱 A clogged filter-drier prevents circulation.
- 🔌 Problems with the compressor start relay (the engine does not start).
Replacing a compressor is an expensive procedure that requires evacuation of the system and charging with freon. It is often more economically feasible to purchase new equipment if the old one is more than 10 years old.
Self-diagnosis algorithm
Before calling the wizard, follow a number of simple steps. This will help weed out false alarms and save time. Users often forget basic things, mistaking them for damage.
Start with a visual inspection and defrosting. Even if you No Frost, complete defrosting for 24 hours can remove ice plugs in the channels that are not visible to the eye. This is the “gold standard” for primary diagnosis.
Check the settings. One of the household members could accidentally turn off the “Super Freeze” mode or change the temperature regime. In some models, activating this function blocks the operation of the refrigerator compartment for a long time.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use sharp objects (knives, screwdrivers) to chip ice inside the compartments. A breakdown of the evaporator will lead to the immediate release of all freon and the entry of moisture into the system, which will make repairs extremely difficult.
If after defrosting and checking the settings the problem does not disappear, listen to the operation of the equipment. A uniform hum from the compressor is a good sign. Knocks, clicks or complete silence when the plug is on require a deeper analysis.
When it is necessary to call a specialist
There is a limit beyond which a home craftsman should not go. These are works related to the violation of the tightness of the circuit. If a leak is diagnosed, a capillary is clogged, or the compressor needs to be replaced, you need a professional with a license and equipment.
Help is also needed if you are not confident in your electrical skills. Replacing a heating element or fan requires disassembling the case, which, if done carelessly, can lead to damage to plastic elements or wiring.
It is worth remembering that modern refrigerators are full of electronics. Misdiagnosis can lead to replacement of serviceable but expensive components, such as the control module. If you do not have experience reading electrical diagrams, the risk of errors is high.
How much does a repair cost?
The cost depends on the region and model. Freon refilling and leak detection often cost 30-40% of the price of a new budget refrigerator. Always ask for the total amount before starting work.
Why is there ice in the freezer, but warm in the refrigerator?
This is a classic sign of poor air circulation (in No Frost) or lack of freon. In the first case, the ice blocks the channels, in the second, the freon cools only in the first section of the circuit (freezer), without reaching the second.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if one chamber does not work?
Short-term - yes, but this is harmful for the compressor, which will work for wear, trying to reach an impossible temperature. Food in a warm chamber will quickly deteriorate, and the oil in the compressor may lose its properties due to overheating.
How long does it take to defrost the refrigerator to check?
Minimum 12 hours, preferably 24. Ice in the hidden channels of the air ducts melts very slowly. If you hurry and turn on the equipment after 2 hours, the effect will be temporary or unnoticeable.
Does the temperature in the room affect the operation of one of the cameras?
Yes. If the refrigerator is located near the radiator or in the sun, the system may not cope with the heat flow, especially in the summer. This creates a load on the system and can cause an imbalance of temperatures.
What should you do if, after defrosting, the refrigerator started working, but after a week it stopped working again?
This indicates a system problem, most likely associated with a malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, sensor, timer). Ice will build up again and block the channels. The faulty element needs to be replaced.