The situation when The refrigerator compartment is warm, and the freezer compartment is warm, and the “north pole” is a classic symptom of a malfunction of a modern household appliance. Users often experience that food in the upper compartment begins to deteriorate, the glass fogs up, and an ice crust forms on the back wall, while the freezer continues to function normally. This does not mean that the device is completely out of order, but it signals a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a failure in the control system.
Before calling a technician or looking for a service center, it is necessary to carry out an initial diagnosis. Operating algorithm of Most two-chamber refrigerators are built in such a way that the cold is generated in the freezer compartment, and it flows into the refrigerator through special channels. If this process is disrupted, the upper compartment suffers first. Ignoring the problem in the early stages can lead to the failure of an expensive compressor or complete leak of freon.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons why the upper chamber stopped working, and methods for eliminating them. We will consider both simple cases that can be fixed on your own in 10 minutes, as well as complex technical breakdowns that require professional intervention and replacement of parts.
Primary diagnostics: checking the operating mode and thermostat
The most commonplace, but often overlooked reason is the human factor. Perhaps one of the household members accidentally changed the settings or activated a special mode that does not allow the refrigerator to work correctly. First of all, check the control panel. If you have a model LG or Samsung, the "Vacation" (Eco Travel) mode may have been accidentally turned on. In this mode thermostat turns off the cooling of the upper chamber to save energy, leaving only the freezer active.
It is also worth paying attention to the position of the temperature regulator. If it is set to the minimum value (usually "1" or "Min"), the compressor may simply not run often enough to keep the upper compartment cool, especially if the room is hot. Try increasing the cooling power and listen to the motor work after 20-30 minutes.
Another important aspect is the tightness of the door seal. If sealing rubber the door is worn out or skewed, warm air constantly flows inside. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat by working without stopping, but due to design features (for example, in the system No Frost), cold air may not have time to spread through the upper chamber, going straight into the freezer.
Check whether the chamber is not overloaded with products. If you've just placed a large pot of hot soup inside or you've packed the shelves tightly, air circulation is disrupted. The cold air simply has nowhere to move, and the temperature sensors read incorrect data.
Problems with the defrosting system in No Frost refrigerators
If your refrigerator is equipped with a system No Frost, then the most likely reason for the lack of cold in the upper chamber is a malfunction of the defrost system. In such models, the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic panel, and frost constantly forms on it, which must periodically melt. If this process is disrupted, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a “fur coat,” blocking the air supply channels.
As a result, the fan drives air, but it cannot pass through the ice jam to the upper chamber. The freezer can still work because it is closer to the source of cold. The main elements that fail in the defrosting chain:
- ❄️ defrost heating element — a heating element that melts the ice on the evaporator; if it burns out, the ice does not melt.
- ❄️ Defrost thermostat (defroster) - a sensor that gives the command to turn on the heating element; if it is “stuck”, heating will not start.
- ❄️ Defrost timer or electronic module - a device that regulates operating cycles; a failure in its program leads to a constant accumulation of ice.
- ❄️ Fan —if it freezes or breaks, cold air does not physically enter the upper compartment.
To diagnose this problem, partial disassembly of the rear wall is often required freezer. Visually, you may notice that little or no air flow is blowing from the air ducts, although the fan is humming. Another sign may be the characteristic cracking of ice inside the housing when the compressor is operating.
How to check a defrost heating element with a multimeter?
To check, you need to get to the heating element (usually it is located under the evaporator). Disconnect the terminals and test the element with a tester in resistance measurement mode. If the resistance is infinitely high (open) or zero (short circuit), the heating element is faulty and requires replacement. Normal resistance is usually from 200 to 600 Ohms, depending on the power.
Refrigerant (freon) leakage: symptoms and consequences
One of the most unpleasant reasons why the upper chamber does not freeze is refrigerant leak. Freon circulates in a closed circuit: first it passes through the freezer chamber, where it releases some of the cold, and then enters the refrigeration chamber circuit. If a microcrack has formed in the system, there is not enough gas to cool both compartments.
In such a situation, the freezer can still freeze, since it is “first on the path” of the refrigerant, and the gas simply does not reach the upper chamber or reaches it already warm. A characteristic sign of a leak is that the compressor runs almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but the body of the refrigerator (especially the side walls) remains warm, and not hot, as it should be with normal condensation.
Leaks often occur in places where pipes are soldered or in the foamed part of the body (protective circuit). It is impossible to independently find the location of a leak without special equipment (leak detector, pressure gauge station). Moreover, simply refilling with freon without eliminating the cause will only give a temporary effect.
⚠️ Attention: If you suspect a leak (you can hear hissing or see oily spots on the back of the tubes), do not under any circumstances try to solder the tubes yourself without pumping out the system. This can lead to an oil fire in the compressor or complete failure of the unit.
Leakage symptoms develop gradually. At first, the refrigerator simply takes longer to reach its temperature, then the upper chamber stops freezing, and only in the final stage does the freezer stop working. If you notice that the food on top has begun to deteriorate, and the motor is humming for days, this is an alarm bell.
Faults in the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator. In two-compressor models (where each chamber has its own motor), the situation is simpler: if the top does not work, it means that it is the top compressor or its control circuit that has failed. However, in most household models there is only one compressor, and it serves both circuits.
If the compressor works, but there is no cold, the problem may be in its performance. Over time, the piston group wears out, and the motor does not create enough freon to pump freon through the entire circuit. As a result, the pressure is only enough for the first circuit (freezer), and the refrigerant does not reach the second chamber. pressure for pumping freon through the entire circuit. As a result, there is only enough pressure for the first circuit (freezer), and the refrigerant does not reach the second chamber.
It also often fails starting relay. This device starts the compressor motor. If the relay is faulty, the compressor may hum, click, but not start, or start for a few seconds and shut down due to thermal protection. In some cases, the relay may “stick”, allowing the motor to work, but intermittently, which is not enough to fully cool the two chambers.
Diagnostics of the compressor requires measuring the current consumption and pressure in the system. If the current is below the rated current, but there is no pressure, most likely the compressor is “tired” and is not pumping. If the current is high and the motor heats up quickly, there may be a jam or a problem with the windings.
Clogged capillary tube: ice or mud plug
The capillary tube is a very thin copper pipeline in which throttling occurs (a sharp drop in pressure) refrigerant. This is where freon turns into steam and begins to actively cool. The diameter of this tube is so small that it becomes clogged.
There are two types of blockages:
- Ice plug. Occurs if there is moisture in the circulation system. Water freezes at the narrowest point of the capillary, cutting off the freon flow. Periodic thawing and freezing are typical: the refrigerator can work, then stop freezing, then start working again.
- Oil-dirt plug. Occurs due to low-quality oil, compressor wear products or oxidation of tubes from the inside. This is a permanent blockage that will not go away on its own.
When the capillary is clogged, the symptoms are similar to a leak: the freezer works, the upper chamber does not. The compressor is overloaded. Only a specialist can distinguish a blockage from a leak by the pressure in the system: if there is a blockage, the pressure on the discharge side will be high, and on the suction side there will be a deep vacuum.
To eliminate the blockage, it is necessary to purge the system with nitrogen under high pressure, replace the filter-drier and evacuation. This is a complex technical procedure that requires professional equipment.
Electronics failure: control module and sensors
Modern refrigerators, such as Bosch, Electrolux or Indesit with electronic control, depend on correct operation control module. The board receives signals from temperature sensors and controls the compressor, fans and heating elements. If one of the sensors (for example, the air sensor in the refrigerator compartment) transmits incorrect data that “it’s already cold there,” the module will not turn on the cooling.
Often the problem lies in oxidation of the sensor contacts or a break in the wiring going to them. Software failures (“glitches”) of the controller are also possible. In such cases, a full reset of settings (Hard Reset) can help.
To perform a power reset:
- 🔌 Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply.
- ⏳ Wait at least 15-20 minutes (so that the capacitors are discharged).
- 🔌 Turn the device back on.
- ⚙️ Check whether operation is restored.
If after the reboot the situation has not changed, and error codes are displayed on the display (if any), you need to refer to the instructions for decoding. For example, a code F1 or E1 often indicates a problem with the temperature sensor.
☑️ Diagnostics before calling a technician
Comparative table of faults
To make it easier for you to navigate the possible causes, we have compiled a table comparing symptoms with probable breakdowns.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Need for a technician |
|---|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm, the compressor is silent | Thermostat or control module is faulty | Average | Desirable |
| The compressor hums constantly, there is no cold anywhere or only in the freezer | Freon leak or clogged capillary | High | Required |
| The fan is heard, but no air is blowing, there is ice on the back wall | The defrost system is faulty (No Frost) | Medium | You can do it yourself |
| The compressor clicks and turns off | The starting relay has burned out | Low | You can do it yourself |
| V the chamber is warm, but the compressor does not turn on at all | Problem with the wiring or module | Average | Desirable |
As can be seen from the table, many problems require specialist intervention, especially those related to the refrigeration circuit. However, knowing the symptoms will help you not to overpay for diagnostics and clearly explain to the technician the essence of the problem over the phone.
⚠️ Attention: Never pierce the back wall inside the refrigerator with a knife or screwdriver, trying to check if there is ice there. A freon circuit may pass through the wall. A puncture will lead to an instant leak and costly repairs.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not freeze?
Short-term operation is possible, but undesirable. If the cause is a freon leak, the compressor will work hard, trying to gain temperature, which can lead to its combustion. If the problem is in the defrost system, the ice may damage the fan or plastic box. It is better to fix the problem.
How long does it take for the refrigerator to reach temperature after defrosting?
Usually the process takes from 2 to 6 hours depending on the model, chamber volume and the number of loaded products. It may take up to 24 hours for the temperature to fully stabilize. If after 6-8 hours of active operation of the compressor it is warm in the upper chamber, then there is a technical malfunction.
In models of these brands with a drip system (“Crying wall”), frequent freezing of ice may indicate a loose door seal, wear of the seal, or a malfunction of the thermostat, which prevents the compressor from turning off in time. Also, the cause may be a clogged drainage hole, due to which the water does not drain, but freezes. Atlant or Biriusa Does ice often freeze in the upper chamber?
In models of these brands with a drip system ("Crying Wall"), frequent freezing of ice may indicate a loose door fit, wear of the seal, or a malfunction of the thermostat, which does not allow the compressor to turn off in time. The cause may also be a clogged drainage hole, causing the water to freeze instead of draining away.
What to do if, after defrosting, the refrigerator still does not freeze?
If after 24 hours of operation without food the situation has not changed, the problem is of a technical nature. Most likely, a freon leak has occurred (if you hear hissing or the tubes are dry and warm) or the compressor has failed. A call to a technician is required for pressure diagnostics.
Could a clogged filter-drier be the reason for the lack of cold at the top?
Yes, the filter-drier is located at the inlet of the capillary tube. If it is clogged with oxidation products or moisture, it creates resistance to freon flow, similar to a blockage. This leads to disruption of refrigerant circulation and loss of system performance, which manifests itself in insufficient cooling of the chamber farthest from the compressor.