The situation when the upper chamber of the refrigerator Indesit stops cooling food is one of the most common complaints from the owners of this equipment. This usually manifests itself in the fact that food in the freezer compartment begins to melt, and the cold on the shelves of the main compartment disappears, although the compressor may continue to hum. This behavior of the unit indicates a disruption in the refrigerant circulation cycle or a malfunction in the temperature control system.
Before calling a technician, it is important to understand that two-compressor and single-compressor models Indesit react to breakdowns differently. Most modern models use a No Frost system or static cooling, where cold is supplied from one zone to another. If the top does not freeze, the problem may be either a banal defrosting or a serious gas leak.
There is no need to panic, but you also cannot delay diagnostics. Food can spoil in a matter of hours, especially in the summer. In this article, we will analyze the main causes of malfunctions, methods for identifying them, and steps that you can take on your own to return the equipment to working order.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the compressor has been running continuously for more than 24 hours and there is no cold, immediately unplug the device. Long-term operation of the engine without load (without freon) can lead to its complete combustion, which will significantly increase the cost of repairs.
Malfunction of the thermostat or temperature sensor
One of the first reasons why top of the refrigerator stopped freezing is the failure of the thermostat. In models with mechanical control, this is done by a thermostat, which physically opens the compressor power circuit when the desired temperature is reached. If its sensitive element (bellows tube) has shifted or lost its seal, the “brains” of the refrigerator do not receive correct data about the climate inside the chambers.
In more modern models Indesit with electronic control, the control function is taken over by air sensors. They are located in the evaporator or in the air duct. If they break down, the control board may “think” that the chamber is already cold enough and not give the command to start the compressor or open the air supply damper. This is often accompanied by blinking indicators on the control panel.
You can diagnose the problem by turning the thermostat knob to the extreme position or listening to clicks. If there is no characteristic switch-on sound, but the light is on, this particular unit may be faulty. It is also worth checking whether the regulator is stuck in the "Off" position.
Problems with the defrost system (No Frost)
If your Indesit is equipped with a system No Frostthen the lack of cold in the upper part is often associated with freezing of the evaporator. In normal operation, the fan drives cold air from the evaporator (which is usually hidden behind the rear wall) throughout the entire volume. When the defrosting system fails, the ice coat blocks the channels, and the air simply does not reach the food.
Three key elements are responsible for the defrosting process: the evaporator heating element, the defrost sensor and the timer (or electronic module). If at least one of them fails, the ice does not melt, accumulates and blocks the air channels. As a result, the fan may hum, but the airflow (air flow) is absent or very weak.
To test this hypothesis, it is not necessary to immediately disassemble the unit. Try defrosting the refrigerator completely. Leave it turned off with the doors open for at least 24 hours (preferably a day). If after turning on the cold appears and lasts for several days, and then disappears again, the problem is guaranteed to be in the defrost system.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
⚠️ Attention: Never try to break off the ice with a knife or sharp objects! Damage to the evaporator tubes or heating element will lead to freon leakage and expensive repairs with sealing of the system.
Leakage of refrigerant (freon)
The most unpleasant reason why the upper chamber does not work is freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack forms in the tubes (often due to corrosion or mechanical damage during transportation), the gas escapes. Without a sufficient amount of freon, heat exchange is impossible, and the temperature begins to rise.
Leak symptoms often develop gradually. At first, the refrigerator begins to freeze worse, the compressor works longer to gain temperature. Then the cold disappears completely. In some cases, you may notice swelling or traces of oil on the rear grille or inside the freezer, which indicates a depressurization area.
It is important to understand that it is impossible to repair the leak and refill the refrigerator with freon on your own. This requires special equipment: a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station and scales. In addition, it is necessary to find the location of the leak, solder it and only then refuel.
Why can’t you just add freon?
Simple refueling without evacuation of the system and searching for leaks will not work. The freon will again leave through the same hole, and the air and moisture trapped inside will cause blockage of the capillary tube (ice plug), which will completely disable the compressor.
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical reason for the lack of cold is a clogged capillary tube. This is a very thin pipeline through which liquid freon enters the evaporator. Over time, oil oxidation products may form in the system or moisture may enter, which turns into an ice plug, blocking circulation.
When clogged, the compressor works, trying to push gas, and can become very hot. The pressure in the system becomes abnormal: at the outlet of the compressor it is high, and after a blockage it is close to a vacuum. As a result, the evaporator does not freeze evenly, and there is no cold in the chambers.
It is difficult to diagnose a blockage at home, but you can pay attention to the nature of the engine operation. If it turns on, works with overload (hums louder than usual) and turns off by a thermal relay, and the tubes near the compressor have different temperatures (one hot, the other cold) - this is a sign of a blockage in the system.
Compressor malfunction
The heart of the refrigerator is compressor. If it does not work or does not work efficiently, no cold is generated. The engine may not start due to a burnt-out winding, a jammed piston group, or a faulty start relay. In the latter case, you can hear clicks every few minutes - these are the relay's attempts to start the engine, which end in failure.
Sometimes the compressor works, but does not create the necessary pressure. This is called "loss of productivity". The valves inside the engine can wear out, and the gas simply circulates in a circle without being compressed to the required values. In this case, the refrigerator hums, the tubes may be a little warm, but the evaporator remains warm.
It is better to entrust the compressor check to a specialist with a tester. He will measure the resistance of the windings and check if there is a short circuit to the frame. You can independently only visually assess the state of the starting relay and check whether voltage is supplied to the engine.
Diagnostic table of main faults
For ease of perception of information, we will summarize the main symptoms and probable causes in a single table. This will help you quickly navigate the situation.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Need a technician |
|---|---|---|---|
| The compressor does not turn on, silence | Faulty starting relay, thermostat or control module | Low/Medium | Desirable |
| Buzzes, clicks, but does not start | The compressor is jammed or the winding is burned out | High | Required |
| Works constantly, no cold | Freon leakage or capillary blockage systems | High | Required |
| There is cold, but weak, ice | Malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, sensor) | Medium | Possibly yourself |
| The cold disappears periodically | Problems with the door seal or thermostat | Low | You can do it yourself |
The influence of the seal and operating conditions
You should not discount simple mechanical reasons. If sealing rubber the upper chamber door is worn out, dirty, or simply does not fit tightly due to the door being skewed, warm air constantly enters the refrigerator. The compressor cannot cope with the heat flow, and the temperature rises.
Check the tightness of the door with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet between the door and the body in different places around the perimeter. If the sheet is removed easily, without resistance, the cold goes out at this point. Also, the reason may be a simple violation of operating rules: installing the refrigerator close to the wall, which interferes with the ventilation of the condenser.
It is important to consider that the technical characteristics and design features of the models Indesit may vary. Some series use specific control modules that are sensitive to voltage surges. If your light fluctuates frequently, it could damage the electronics that control the fan or compressor.
⚠️ Note: Design details and wiring diagrams may vary depending on the specific model and year of your refrigerator. Before purchasing spare parts, be sure to check the part number (P/N) on the part marking with the manufacturer's catalog.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to defrost the Indesit refrigerator to remove the ice plug?
To fully guarantee the melting of ice in all hard-to-reach channels For No Frost systems, it is recommended to defrost the unit for at least 24 hours. The minimum time is 12 hours, but it may not be enough for deep layers of ice on the evaporator.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the top does not freeze, but the bottom does?
It is strictly not recommended. If you have a single-compressor model, then operation in this mode means that the system is overloaded or circulation is impaired. This may cause the compressor to burn out. If it is a two-compressor one, you can temporarily use the lower chamber, but you need to find the reason for the breakdown of the upper one.
Why did the refrigerator start working after defrosting, but after a week it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the automatic defrosting system. Ice accumulated again and blocked the channels. Most likely, the evaporator heating element, defrost sensor or timer has failed. The faulty element needs to be replaced.
How can you tell if the compressor has burned out and not the relay?
If you hear a click when you turn it on, the hum lasts 2-5 seconds and there is a click again (protection) - the relay is often to blame. If the compressor hums strongly, heats up, but does not start, or is completely silent when voltage is applied directly (checked by a professional), the motor itself is likely to fail.
Is it necessary to change the filter drier during repairs?
Yes, for any opening of the refrigerant circuit (charging, repairing leaks, replacing compressor), the filter drier must be replaced. It is disposable and is saturated with moisture from the air during repairs, losing its properties.