Owners of two-chamber models are often faced with a situation where the lower compartment continues to freeze properly, and in the upper compartment the temperature rises to critical levels. For refrigerators Biryusa this is a classic breakdown scenario, which indicates a violation of the refrigerant circulation or problems with evaporator defrosting. Unlike modern No Frost systems, where a fan is responsible for cooling, in classic models the cold is distributed naturally, and any failure in this process instantly affects the products.
Ignoring the first signs of a malfunction can lead to spoilage of a large amount of food and defrosting of the entire unit. Main reason often lies in a banal blockage of the capillary tube or failure of the thermostat, but without detailed diagnostics it is impossible to accurately name the culprit. In this article, we will analyze all possible scenarios, from simple settings to complex technical repairs, so that you can understand the scale of the problem.
Before calling a technician, it is worth conducting an initial visual assessment of the condition of the equipment. Pay attention to exactly how the unit behaves: is the compressor humming continuously, is there ice on the back wall or, conversely, are the walls completely dry and warm. These nuances are key to determining further actions.
Natural causes and operating errors
Before sounding the alarm and looking for a breakdown in the bowels of the unit, it is necessary to exclude the human factor. Often, users themselves create conditions under which the upper chamber ceases to perform its functions. First check should touch the tightness of the door. If the rubber seal is dirty, damaged or simply does not fit due to the skew of the door, warm air constantly enters the chamber.
The compressor in such cases works for wear, trying to compensate for heat inflows, but the power may not be enough to fully freeze the upper volume. It's also worth checking to see if you've packed the shelves with food so tightly that you've blocked the air circulation channels. In models with a Low Frost or drip system, this is critically important.
⚠️ Attention: Never place hot or warm food in the refrigerator compartment. A sharp jump in temperature disrupts the operating mode of the compressor and leads to the formation of excess moisture, which can freeze in the drainage system.
Another important aspect is the choice of operating mode. If you have an electronically controlled model, make sure that you have not accidentally activated the Holiday or Eco mode, which may limit the operation of the top compartment. Also check that the air ducts are not blocked by large packages.
Faults in the defrost system and ice freezing
One of the most common reasons why the upper chamber stops freezing is the formation of a “snow coat” on the evaporator. In refrigerators Biryusa with a drip system or partial No Frost, ice can accumulate on the heat exchanger, which is located behind the rear panel. When the layer of ice becomes too thick, it blocks heat transfer and cold stops flowing into the chamber volume.
A whole unit, consisting of a heating element, a defrost timer (or electronic module) and a defrost sensor, is responsible for the defrosting process in automatic mode. If any of these elements fail, the ice does not melt, but accumulates. As a result, after some time after switching on, the refrigerator begins to work continuously, but does not produce cold.
To diagnose this problem, partial disassembly of the case is often required. You will need to remove the back plastic panel in the freezer or refrigerator compartment (depending on the design of the specific model Biryusa). If you see a massive lump of ice entangling the evaporator tubes, the problem lies precisely in the defrost system.
☑️ Diagnostics of the defrost system
It is worth noting that heating elements can burn out due to power surges or natural wear. The defrost sensor, in turn, may “stick” in the “frozen” position, not giving a command to turn on the heater. Replacing these elements usually solves the problem, but requires skills in working with electrical circuits.
Why does the ice not melt even with a working heating element?
Sometimes the problem lies not in the heater, but in the fact that the melt water does not have time to go into the drainage hole. If the drain is clogged with debris or frozen, water accumulates and freezes again, forming a monolithic block. In this case, the heating element may be working properly, but it simply cannot cope with the volume of ice or cannot warm up the drainage channel.
Problems with refrigerant: freon leak
If you are convinced that there is no ice, the door closes tightly, and the compressor works, but there is no cold, there is a high probability of a refrigerant leak. Freon is the working fluid of the refrigerator, and without a sufficient amount of it, heat exchange is impossible. In older models Biryusa leaks often occur in places where tubes are soldered or in the foamed part of the case due to corrosion.
The symptoms of a leak are quite specific. The compressor may run almost non-stop trying to get up to temperature, but the condenser (grid at the back) will be lukewarm or cold. In some cases, you can hear a characteristic hissing or gurgling sound if the leak occurs in an accessible place, although most often it is hidden in thermal insulation.
| Symptom | Normal condition | Sign of a leak |
|---|---|---|
| Compressor operation | Cyclic (on/off) | Works continuously or does not turn on |
| Condenser temperature | Hot along the entire length | Warm only at the beginning or cold |
| Evaporator | Evenly covered with frost | Dry or partially covered with ice |
| Sound | Even humming | Gurgling, hissing |
It is impossible to eliminate a freon leak on your own. Special equipment is required to find the location of the damage, evacuate the system and fill with new gas. Attempts to refill refrigerator without eliminating the cause of the leak will give only a temporary effect.
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical reason why the upper chamber stops cooling is a clogged capillary tube. This thin copper tube serves as a throttle, creating a pressure differential in the system. Over time, oxidation products, paraffin from oil or moisture can accumulate inside it, turning into an ice plug.
Signs of a blockage are very similar to a freon leak: the compressor works, but there is no cold. However, there is a nuance: if clogged, the condenser can heat up more than usual, since the compressor has to pump freon into the “dead” system, and the unit itself can turn off due to overload or a thermal relay.
Treatment of this problem requires professional intervention. The technician will have to:
- 🛠️ Purge the system with nitrogen under high pressure to remove the plug.
- 🛠️ Replace the filter drier, which must be installed in front of the capillary tube.
- 🛠️ Evacuate the circuit and fill the refrigerator with a new one freon.
Sometimes the blockage is temporary (for example, an ice plug). If you defrost the refrigerator completely (for 24 hours with the doors open), the ice may melt and the system will work. But this is a temporary measure, and soon the plug will form again, so a visit to a specialist cannot be avoided.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to clean the capillary tube yourself by biting it off or using pumps. You risk breaking the tightness of the system completely or damaging the compressor, which will make repairs economically unfeasible.
Malfunction of the thermostat or sensors
In mechanical models Biryusa The thermostat is responsible for the temperature. This is a device that closes and opens the compressor power circuit depending on the temperature in the chamber. If its bellows (sensitive element) has lost its tightness or the contacts are burnt, the compressor may simply not turn on, or, conversely, work without stopping, not allowing the system to thaw.
In more modern models with electronic control, the function of a thermostat is performed by air sensors. If such a sensor “lies” and shows the control module that the chamber is already -10°C, although in fact it is +5°C, the compressor will not turn on. You can check the sensor with a multimeter by measuring its resistance at different temperatures.
Replacing the thermostat is one of the simplest procedures that you can do yourself if you have basic skills. The main thing is to choose an analogue with exactly the same characteristics, otherwise the operating mode of the refrigerator will be disrupted.
When you need to call a technician
There are a number of situations when independent repairs are not only useless, but also dangerous. If you have discovered that the problem lies in a sealed circuit (leakage, blockage), or the compressor has burned out, it is better not to risk it. Modern refrigerants require compliance with charging technologies, and work with high voltage and pressure requires appropriate qualifications.
It is also worth contacting professionals if, after defrosting and checking the electrical circuits, the refrigerator still does not work correctly. Complex diagnostics of the control module or the search for micro-leaks requires special equipment that is not in the arsenal of a home technician.
Remember that improper repairs can lead to the final failure of expensive components, such as a compressor. In the case of refrigerators Biryusa, which are famous for their maintainability, a competent approach will extend the life of the unit for many years.
Why does the Biryusa refrigerator not turn on after defrosting?
If after complete defrosting (more than 24 hours) the refrigerator does not turn on, the compressor thermal protection relay or the starting relay may have failed. There could also be a freon leak that became obvious after the system cooled down. In rare cases, the problem is in the electronic module, which could be damaged by moisture during defrosting.
Is it possible to use the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not freeze?
It is not recommended to use the unit in this mode. The compressor will work non-stop, trying to reach the set temperature, which will lead to overheating and eventual combustion. In addition, the temperature regime in a working chamber may be disrupted, which will lead to spoilage of food.
How often should Biryusa be defrosted to avoid problems?
Classic models with a drip system require defrosting at least 2 times a year. If you notice that the layer of ice on the back wall exceeds 5-7 mm, defrosting should be carried out immediately, regardless of the timing. Ignoring this rule is the main reason for the failure of the defrost system.