When faced with a puddle on the kitchen floor or strange ice freezing on the back wall, the owner of household appliances often falls into a stupor. It would seem that fridge it is humming properly, the food is cooling, but for some reason the water does not want to go to the place intended for it. This is a classic symptom of a malfunction of the moisture removal system, which users of both budget and premium models encounter. The problem cannot be ignored, because the accumulation of excess moisture leads not only to damage to the floor covering, but also to corrosion of the metal elements of the body. Moisture can penetrate electrical components, causing a short circuit. Understanding Samsung or Bosch.
The problem cannot be ignored, because the accumulation of excess moisture leads not only to damage to the floor covering, but also to corrosion of the metal elements of the body. Moisture can penetrate electrical components, causing a short circuit. Understanding that why condensation does not go awaywill help you quickly diagnose a breakdown and avoid an expensive visit to a technician.
In this article we will analyze in detail the design of the drip system, the causes of blockages and how to eliminate them yourself. You will learn how to properly clean the drainage hole and when to sound the alarm and call specialists.
The principle of operation of a drip defrosting system
To understand where the failure occurred, you need to refresh your memory of the basic principles of operation of a “crying” evaporator. Most modern models use a No Frost or drip defrosting system. In the second case, frost periodically forms on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment.
When the compressor turns off, the wall temperature rises and the frost melts, turning into water. This water flows down the gutter, ending up in a special drainage hole. Then it flows through a tube into a tray located above the compressor, where it evaporates.
If this well-functioning mechanism is broken, water begins to accumulate at the bottom of the refrigeration chamber or flow out. Condensation - this is a natural product of the equipment, but only if the drainage is working properly.
⚠️ Attention: In models with the No Frost system, the drainage hole is often hidden behind a plastic panel on the back wall. Access to it may require partial disassembly, which requires care.
The main reasons for a clogged drainage hole
The most common reason why condensation stops draining is a banal blockage. Debris, crumbs, pieces of food or even mold deposits accumulate over time in the narrow channel of the tube.
Sometimes the situation is aggravated by improper operation. For example, if you store food in open containers or place hot pots, the amount of condensation increases sharply and the drainage cannot cope with the volume of liquid. The quality of product packaging also plays a role.
A blockage can form not only in the hole itself, but also deeper, in the bends of the tube. In this case, the water stands in the groove and gradually overflows over the edge, ending up on the shelves with vegetables.
- 🍞 Remains of bakery products and crumbs that have fallen into the groove.
- 🧀 Particles of soft foods (cheese, butter) that stick to the walls of the tube.
- 🦠 Biological plaque, mucus or mold formed due to infrequent washing.
Often users forget that even a microscopic speck can become a crystallization nucleus for larger deposits. Regular hygiene of the interior helps prevent blockages from forming.
Mechanical drainage cleaning: step-by-step instructions
If you find that water is standing in the groove, the first thing to do is to mechanically clean the channel. For this procedure, you will need a minimum set of tools, which can be found in every home.
Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. This is critical for your safety, since you will be working with electrically conductive liquid and metal objects near electrical components.
Take a thin wire (you can use a wire from a charger that has been stripped of insulation) or a special brush. Carefully insert the tool into the hole using a rotating motion. Do not use excessive force to avoid puncturing the plastic tube.
☑️ Cleaning tools
After mechanical impact, it is necessary to rinse the channel with water. Fill the syringe with warm (but not boiling water!) water and sharply inject it into the hole. If the water leaves with a characteristic gurgle and does not rise back, you have done it.
⚠️ Attention: Never use sharp metal objects (knitting needles, scissors) for cleaning if you are not confident in your abilities. The risk of damaging the thin walls of the plastic drainage and ruining the thermal insulation is very high.
Problems with the drainage tube and tray
There are times when the hole is clean, but the water still does not drain out. The problem may lie in the tube itself or the evaporator tray. The tube may have become dislodged, kinked, or burst.
The tray located above the compressor also requires attention. If it is cracked or dislodged, water will drip past it and onto the floor. Sometimes the tray becomes overgrown with a salt coating, which blocks normal evaporation.
To check the condition of the tray and tube, it is often necessary to move the refrigerator and remove the back panel. This is a more complex procedure that requires certain skills. If you are not sure, it is better to limit yourself to a visual inspection of the accessible parts.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Solution method |
|---|---|---|
| Water inside at the bottom | Clogged inlet | Cleaning with a brush and rinsing |
| Puddle under the refrigerator | The tray is displaced or cracked | Replacing or adjusting the tray |
| Ice coat on wall | Faulty defrost sensor | Electronics diagnostics |
| Gurgling and splashing | Air lock in the tube | Blowing or flushing under pressure |
If the tray is intact, but the water does not evaporate, the refrigerator may be too close to the wall or in a very cold room. The compressor must heat up so that the water in the tray evaporates effectively.
What to do if the tube bursts?
If you find a crack in the drainage tube, you can try to seal it with a special sealant for plastic or use a heat-shrinkable tube. However, in most cases it is easier and more reliable to order an original spare part from the manufacturer.
Malfunctions of the defrost system (No Frost)
In refrigerators with the system No Frost the reasons may be more serious. Here the water is diverted from the evaporator, hidden behind a plastic panel. If condensation does not go away, the defrosting heating element, timer or sensor may have failed.
If the defrosting system malfunctions, the evaporator becomes overgrown with ice, which blocks the air circulation channels and the drainage hole. Water begins to flow into the chamber or, worse, behind the casing, causing corrosion.
Diagnosis of such faults requires a multimeter and knowledge in the field of electrical engineering. It is necessary to “ring” the heating element and check the resistance of the sensors. Without experience, it is not recommended to get into the “stuffing” of the No Frost system.
Often the problem is signaled by an error code on the display (if there is one) or uncharacteristic behavior of the compressor. It can work non-stop, trying to compensate for the lack of cold due to an ice plug.
The influence of external factors and operating conditions
Sometimes the reason lies not in a breakdown, but in environmental conditions. High humidity in the room, frequent opening of doors or placement of a refrigerator next to (battery, stove) can upset the balance.
If the room is too hot, the compressor works harder, and more condensation forms, which the standard drainage may not be able to cope with. It is also important to monitor the tightness of the door seals.
The rubber seal dries out over time and allows warm air to pass through. This leads to abundant formation of moisture, which simply does not have time to escape through the drainage. Check the door: it should close tightly around the entire perimeter.
Prevention and proper care of equipment
To prevent the question “why the condensation does not go away” from arising in the future, follow simple operating rules. Regular defrosting (even for No Frost systems once a year) helps maintain operating efficiency.
Keep an eye on the temperature. Do not set the main chamber temperature too low unless necessary. This not only saves electricity, but also reduces the load on the moisture removal system.
Use the correct packaging for products. Liquids should be covered and hot foods should be allowed to cool completely before entering the chamber. These simple measures will extend the life of your refrigerator.
How often should you defrost the refrigerator?
Refrigerators with manual defrosting require turning off once every 3-6 months, when the ice layer reaches 5 mm. No Frost systems and drip models technically do not require defrosting, but a preventive shutdown for a day once a year for washing and drying will only benefit them.
Is it possible to use boiling water for cleaning?
It is strictly not recommended to pour boiling water into the drainage hole of a plastic refrigerator. Sudden temperature changes can warp or crack the thin plastic of the gutter and tubes. Use warm water (40-50 degrees).
What to do if after cleaning the water still stands?
If mechanical cleaning and washing did not help, perhaps the blockage is deep in the bend of the tube or the problem is in the angle of the refrigerator itself. Try lifting the front legs of the refrigerator slightly to ensure better drainage by gravity.
Is condensation dangerous to health?
Condensation itself is just water. However, stagnant water in the drainage system allows bacteria and mold to grow rapidly. Mold spores can get on food, which is dangerous for allergy sufferers and people with weakened immune systems.