Why the Ariston refrigerator does not turn off: reasons and repair

The situation when the refrigerator Ariston stops turning off is a classic sign of a serious malfunction in the cooling system. You may notice that the unit hums continuously, the motor runs without interruption, and the temperature inside the chamber may either not be low enough, or, conversely, the food begins to freeze. This behavior of the equipment is not just unnecessary energy consumption, it is a signal that compressor it is working hard, trying to achieve the specified parameters, but for some reason cannot do this.

Owners are often frightened when they hear a continuous hum, and immediately think about engine failure, however Statistics from service centers indicate the opposite: most often the problem lies in the sensors or a violation of the tightness of the circuit. If your Ariston refrigerator does not turn off, this means that the “brain” of the device does not receive a signal that the desired temperature has already been reached. Ignoring this symptom for several days can lead to failure of the most expensive component - the motor-compressor, the repair of which is often not economically feasible.

Before calling a technician, it is worth carrying out an initial diagnosis to eliminate common operating errors. Sometimes the reason is that the door does not fit tightly due to ice or a foreign object, or the temperature control was accidentally turned to the “Maximum” position. Understanding the operating principle of thermostat and the refrigerant will help you more accurately describe the problem to a specialist or even fix the problem yourself if it is superficial.

The main reasons for the continuous operation of the compressor

The fundamental reason that the refrigerator Ariston works without stopping, always alone: the heat flow into the chambers exceeds the capacity of the cooling system. In simple words, heat comes inside faster than the refrigerator can pump it out. This can happen due to a refrigerant leak when freon becomes low, or because the insulation is damaged. In both cases, the temperature sensor detects “heat” and commands the motor to continue working.

The second most common cause is the failure of electronic control components. In modern models with the system No Frost an electronic module is responsible for the temperature regime, which reads readings from several sensors. If one of the sensors is “lying” or its circuit is broken, the module may mistakenly assume that it is hot in the chamber and keep the compressor on constantly. In older models, a mechanical thermostat is responsible for this, which loses calibration over time.

⚠️ Attention: If you smell a burning smell or see that the rear condenser grill is red-hot, immediately unplug the cord from the outlet. Continuing to operate in this mode can lead to a fire in the wiring or melting of the plastic.

It is also worth considering external factors. If the refrigerator is located close to the wall, near the radiator or in direct sunlight, the efficiency of heat removal drops critically. The motor tries to compensate for overheating by increasing operating time. In addition, frequently opening the door or placing hot food inside creates an excess heat load that the normal cooling cycle cannot handle.

📊 How long ago did your refrigerator start working without interruption?
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A few days ago
About a week ago
It has been working like this for more than a month

Diagnostics of the thermostat and temperature sensors

The most likely “culprit” for the endless operation of the refrigerator Ariston is the thermostat (thermostat). This element is responsible for opening the electrical circuit when a certain temperature is reached. In mechanical models, it is a simple capsule of gas or liquid that expands or contracts. If the thermostat bellows depressurizes or its calibration spring moves, the contacts simply stop opening, and the compressor hums without ceasing.

In models with electronic control, the situation is more complicated. Here, temperature control is controlled thermistors (resistance sensors) located in the evaporator, in the fridge compartment and sometimes in the “zero” zone. If the evaporator sensor shows incorrect data (for example, due to oxidation of the contacts or a broken wire), the main controller does not see that the evaporator has already frozen out and does not give a command to stop the compressor.

Diagnostics of the electronic unit requires special equipment, but you can indirectly check the sensors. Often, if the sensor malfunctions, an error code lights up on the display or the temperature indicator blinks. However, if the system is frozen or the sensor simply underestimates the readings, there may be no external indications. In such cases, technicians often use the method of replacing the sensor with a known good one in order to check the system's response.

It is important to understand the difference between a thermostat and a defrost sensor. If your refrigerator won't turn off, it's almost always the main temperature sensor or thermostat. The defrost sensor is responsible for turning on the heating elements, and its malfunction usually leads to the evaporator becoming overgrown with ice, which again causes problems, but the primary symptom will be different.

How to check a mechanical thermostat without a multimeter?

Remove the temperature regulator and lower its sensitive tube into a container with water and ice for 2-3 minutes. Then quickly call your contacts. If there is no click or change in readings, the thermostat is faulty and requires replacement. Remember that this method gives only an approximate result.

Refrigerant leak: symptoms and consequences

One ​​of the most serious reasons why the refrigerator Ariston does not turn off is a simple lack of freon in the system. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, taking heat from the chambers and releasing it into the environment. If a microcrack appears in the tubes or connections, the gas begins to escape. The pressure in the system drops, and the compressor, operating in normal mode, simply cannot create the required vacuum for cooling.

The control module (or thermostat) “sees” that the temperature in the chamber does not drop to the set level, and keeps the motor turned on 24 hours a day. Trying to compensate for the lack of freon, the compressor overheats. This condition is critical for engine life. If you do not eliminate the leak in time and do not refill the system, you can “ruin” a working motor, which will burn out from overload or dry out from the lack of lubricant circulating along with freon.

How to determine the leak yourself? Pay attention to the following signs:

  • 📉 The temperature inside the chambers gradually increases, food spoils, although the compressor works without stopping.
  • 🔥 The side walls of the refrigerator (where the condenser is foamed) remain cold or warm only partially, although they should be uniformly hot.
  • 💧 Appearance oily spots under the refrigerator or in the compressor area (oil comes out along with the gas).
  • 🔊 Change in the sound of the engine: it may become quieter or, conversely, begin to “growl” due to dry operation.

It is almost impossible to independently find the location of the leak without a leak detector and special equipment. Trying to simply “refuel” the refrigerator without finding and fixing the hole is a waste of money. Freon will go away again in a week or month. Professional repair in this case includes nitrogen testing, searching for a fistula, soldering and evacuation of the system before refilling.

Problems with the seal and thermal insulation

Often the reason that the refrigerator Ariston does not turn off lies on the surface, in the literal sense of the word. We are talking about the rubber door seal. If it becomes dirty, has lost elasticity, is cracked, or simply does not fit tightly, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to cool this constant flow of heat and operates in emergency mode.

You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet between the door and the body in different places around the perimeter. If the paper pulls out easily, without resistance, it means that the seal is not holding in that place. Also, the cause of a loose fit may be a misalignment of the door due to loose hinges or improper installation of the refrigerator itself (for example, if it is not level and “piled up” back).

Another hidden enemy is a violation of the thermal insulation of the case. This happens rarely, but is possible due to mechanical damage or manufacturing defects. If voids have formed in the polyurethane foam layer (“insulation is leaking”), the cold will escape outside and the heat will penetrate inside. Visually, this can be seen by swelling on the side walls or local areas of condensation (“crying” walls) on the outside of the case.

To eliminate problems with the seal, it is often enough to thoroughly wash it with warm water and soap, removing grease and adhering dirt. If the rubber has become rough, you can try to restore its elasticity using a hair dryer (gently heating and straightening) or special silicone lubricants. In case of cracks or severe deformation, only replacing the sealing rubber with a new one will help.

Malfunctions of the compressor and start relay

Although we are talking about the fact that the refrigerator does not turn off, we cannot exclude a malfunction of the very “heart” of the system - the compressor. In rare cases, the motor windings may be partially closed, which changes their resistance and operating characteristics. However, more often the problem lies not in the motor itself, but in its wiring: the starting and thermal relay.

The starting relay is responsible for starting the engine, and the thermal relay protects it from overheating. If the relay contacts are stuck in the "on" position, the compressor will receive power constantly, even if the thermostat is trying to turn it off. This is a dangerous situation as the thermal release may not operate in time and the motor will burn out. Signs of such a malfunction may be clicks when trying to start or, conversely, their complete absence with a continuous hum.

In modern inverter models Ariston the role of a relay is performed by an electronic control unit (inverter). If it fails, it can send incorrect signals to the compressor, causing it to run without pause. Diagnostics of the inverter is complex and requires an oscilloscope, so at home you can only ascertain the fact of a malfunction using error codes.

☑️ Diagnostics of the compressor unit

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Comparative table of symptoms and solutions

To make it easier for you To help you figure out the possible cause of the breakdown, we have compiled a table comparing symptoms with probable malfunctions. Remember that only a technician with the equipment can make an accurate diagnosis.

Symptom Probable cause Difficulty of repair User actions
The refrigerator is humming, but no cold Freon leak or capillary blockage High (needs a technician) Defreeze for 12-24 hours, call a technician
Motor is hot, does not turn off The thermostat or sensor is faulty Medium (replace the sensor) Check the settings, call a repairman
There is cold, but weak, the motor does not subside The seal is broken doors Low (cleaning/adjustment) Wash the seal, check the fit
Clicks are heard, the motor does not start or hums Faulty start relay Medium (relay replacement) Disconnect from the network, do not turn on until repaired
An error is shown on the display, the light is on Electronics or sensor failure High (diagnostics board) Try to reboot (turn off for 15 minutes)

The table shows that many problems require specialist intervention. You can only solve issues with seals, defrosting or checking settings on your own. Interfering with the freon circulation system or compressor electrics without qualifications and a license is dangerous.

When it is necessary to call a specialist

There is a fine line between self-diagnosis and the need for professional repairs. If, after checking the seal, defrosting for 24 hours and checking the temperature settings, the refrigerator Ariston continues to work without interruption, you cannot wait any longer. Every minute of operation in this mode reduces the life of the compressor.

It is especially important to contact specialists if:

  • 🛠️ You hear gurgling or hissing in the tubes (a sign of a leak).
  • 🌡️ The temperature in the main chamber is higher +10°C even at maximum power.
  • ⚡ The smell of burnt wiring or plastic in the engine compartment area.
  • ❄️ A “coat” of ice forms on the back wall inside the refrigerator compartment (a sign of problems with defrosting).

⚠️ Attention: Do not attempt to open the sealed circuit or change the compressor yourself. This requires a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station and a license to work with freons. Unprofessional soldering will lead to repeated failure in a short time.

Calling a specialist is an investment in the durability of the equipment. A professional will arrive with the necessary supply of spare parts (thermostats, relays, sensors) and diagnostic equipment. In the event of a leak, he will find the location of the fistula, which cannot be done by eye, and guarantees the quality of sealing of the seam. Repairing a refrigerator Ariston on your own is often more expensive due to the purchase of unnecessary parts and the risk of finishing off working components.

Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it does not turn off?

For a short time (several hours) - yes, if there is food. But it is strictly forbidden to leave it in this mode for a day or more. This will lead to overheating of the compressor, burnout of the windings and expensive repairs or complete replacement of the unit.

Prevention and proper operation

In order for your Ariston to serve for a long time and not cause problems with continuous operation, it is important to follow the operating rules. Regularly, at least once every six months, check the cleanliness of the condenser grille at the back of the refrigerator. Dust and pet hair act as a heat insulator, preventing the release of heat, which makes the motor work longer.

Keep an eye on the loading of the chambers. Do not fill the refrigerator to capacity with food - cold air should circulate freely. Also, do not place hot pots inside. A sharp jump in temperature and humidity is stressful for the system, after which it takes a long time for it to return to normal operation.

Regular defrosting (even for the No Frost system, at least once a year for prevention) helps maintain the efficiency of heat transfer. Ice that does form in hard-to-reach places interferes with the operation of sensors and fans. Following these simple rules will help you avoid situations where the refrigerator hums for days on end.

Why does the Ariston refrigerator work constantly after defrosting?

If after complete defrosting (more than 12 hours) the refrigerator turned on, worked and does not turn off again, most likely the problem is not ice freezing. There may be a freon leak or a thermostat malfunction. During the defrosting process, the remaining refrigerant could be redistributed, but if the system is leaky, there will still not be enough cold.

How long should the compressor normally work?

In normal mode, the refrigerator compressor works cyclically: it works for about 15-20 minutes and rests for 20-30 minutes. The work rate is about 40-50%. If the operating time significantly exceeds the rest time, or the pauses disappear completely, this is a sign of a malfunction.

Is it possible to repair a thermostat with your own hands?

A mechanical thermostat is a sealed capsule. It is useless to open and repair it; it can only be replaced. The electronic sensor is also completely changed. Self-adjustment of the screws on the thermostat body is possible, but requires precise instruments for measuring the temperature, otherwise you can completely reset the settings.

What to do if the Ariston refrigerator hums, but does not freeze?

This is a classic symptom of a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube. The compressor runs idle. It is necessary to immediately disconnect the device from the network, defrost it for 24 hours and call a technician to find a leak and refill it.