The Stinol refrigerator does not turn off: reasons and what do

Does your refrigerator Stinol work around the clock, does not turn off and hums without interruption? This is not just an annoying noise - it is a signal of a serious malfunction, which leads to increased energy consumption, compressor overheating and food spoilage. In 80% of cases, the problem is solved without calling a technician, if the cause is correctly diagnosed.

In this article we will look all possible reasonswhy the refrigerator Stinol (models 100, 101, 103, 107, 110 and others) does not turn off - due to a banal blockage capillary tube until the electronic control unit breaks down. You will learn how to check the thermostat with a multimeter, determine a freon leak by indirect signs, and when exactly it is time to call a specialist. And at the end - an FAQ with answers to frequently asked questions from owners.

Let us warn you right away: if the refrigerator does not turn off more than 12 hours, and the freezer is covered with a thick layer of ice, this is a critical signal. Further operation without repair will lead to failure of the compressor (replacement cost - from 6,000 rubles).

1. The thermostat (thermostat) is faulty

The thermostat is the “brain” of the refrigerator, which monitors the temperature and sends a signal to the compressor to turn on/off. If it breaks, the compressor works continuously, since it does not receive a command to stop. In models Stinol-101 and Stinol-103 the thermostat often fails due to oxidation of contacts or mechanical wear.

How to check the thermostat yourself:

• 🔧 Visual inspection: open refrigerator door and find the plastic box with the temperature control knob (usually on the right inside the compartment). Remove the protection and inspect the wires for burning or corrosion.
• 📊 Check with a multimeter: switch the device to resistance measurement mode (200 Ohms). At room temperature, between terminals 3 and 4 should be 0 Ohm (closed), when cooled (for example, if you put the thermostat in the freezer for 10 minutes) - ∞ (open).
• 🔄 Jumper test: disconnect the wires from the thermostat and short them together. If the compressor stops, the thermostat is faulty.

If the thermostat does not stick, but the refrigerator still does not turn off, the problem may be in incorrect setting. In models Stinol-110 and Stinol-107 factory settings are often lost after power surges. Try setting the regulator to minimum cooling (number 1 or “Min”) and monitor the operation of the compressor for 2-3 hours.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to disassemble a thermostat with a sealed siphon (for example, in models with electronic control). There is gas inside which, if leaked, can cause poisoning. If you are not sure, it is better to replace the entire part (cost: 800–1,500 rubles).

2. Freon leak: signs and what to do

Freon is a refrigerant that circulates through the system and cools the chambers. If a microcrack appears somewhere (most often in evaporator or condenser), the gas gradually evaporates, and the compressor is forced to work without stopping, trying to compensate for the lack of cold.

Signs of a freon leak in refrigerators Stinol:

• ❄️ The freezer does not freeze well, and the refrigerator does not cool at all.
• 🔥 The compressor is hot to the touch (normal: warm, but not scalding).
• 💧 Rust appears on the back wall of the refrigerator (due to a leak in the condenser).
• 📉 Energy consumption has increased by 1.5–2 times (check the meter).

It is impossible to eliminate the leak on your own - it is required special equipment to vacuum the system and Freon refills. But you can check the assumption:

1. Unplug the refrigerator for 10-12 hours (take out the food).
2. Turn it on again and listen: if the compressor immediately starts working at full power without pauses, most likely there is not enough freon.
3. Inspect places for soldering the tubes on the back wall: if there is a leak, there may be oil spots there (freon comes out along with the oil).

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators Stinol older 2010 uses freon R-12, which is prohibited for free sale. Modern models are filled with R-134a or R-600a (isobutane). Do not try to refill the system yourself - it is dangerous to health!

3. Clogged capillary tube or filter drier

The capillary tube is a thin channel through which freon enters the evaporator. Over time, it can become clogged metal shavingswith oil particles or moisture (if the filter drier has lost its properties). As a result, freon does not circulate normally, and the compressor works without interruption, trying to “push” the refrigerant.

Signs of clogging:

• 🔄 The compressor turns on, but after 5-10 seconds it turns off (protection against overheating).
• 🧊 The condenser (grid at the back) is cold, although the compressor is humming.
• 💦 Frost appears on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment.

How to check the blockage yourself:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and turn it around its back wall towards you.
2. Find capillary tube (thin copper tube going from the compressor to the evaporator).
3. Gently touch it with your hand: if it hot at the inlet to the evaporator and cold at the outlet - the blockage is confirmed.

The blockage can only be eliminated at home purging with nitrogen (cylinder and reducer required). If you have no experience, it is better to call a specialist. Average cost of cleaning the system: 3,000–4,500 rubles.

4. Compressor failure: how to diagnose

The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator. If it is worn out or broken, two scenarios may occur:

1. The compressor works without stopping, but does not create the required pressure (the refrigerator does not freeze well).
2. The compressor turns on and immediately turns off (thermal protection is triggered).

Causes of compressor failure in refrigerators Stinol:

• 🔋 Interturn short circuit windings (often due to power surges).
• 🛠️ Wear of the piston group (if the refrigerator is more than 10 years old).
• 🔥 Overheating due to a faulty start relay.

How to check the compressor with a multimeter:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back cover.
2. Disconnect the wires from the compressor (remember their location!).
3. Switch the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (200 Ohm).
4. Measure the resistance between the terminals:
   • C (common) — S (start): should be 20–30 Ohm.
   • C (common) — R (run): should be 10–15 Ohm.
   • S (start) — R (run): should be 30–40 Ohm.

If at least one value is equal to 0 (short circuit) or ∞ (open) - compressor faulty.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators Stinol with an inverter compressor (models after 2018), diagnostics are more difficult - checking the control board is required. Do not confuse a regular compressor with an inverter one: the latter operates almost silently and does not have a start relay.

Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 30 minutes|Check the resistance of the windings with a multimeter|Inspect the starting relay for burnt contacts|Ring the circuit for a short circuit-->

5. Malfunction of the electronic control unit

In modern models Stinol (for example, Stinol STS 167 or Stinol RF 360) the electronic module is responsible for controlling the compressor. If it fails, the refrigerator can:

• 🔄 Work without stopping, ignoring sensor signals.
• 📛 Give errors on display (for example, E1, E2, E5).
• 🔌 Turns on independently after disconnecting from the network.

Causes of failure of the control unit:

• ⚡ Power surges in the network (a common problem in rural areas).
• 💧 Moisture on the board (for example, during defrosting).
• 🛠️ Defective radio elements (found in batches of 2015–2017).

How to diagnose the problem:

1. Look at the display: if the error is on, decipher it according to the instructions (for example, E1 - problem with the temperature sensor).
2. Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply for 5 minutes, then turn it on again. If the problem remains, the unit is faulty.
3. Inspect the board for swollen capacitors or burnt tracks.

Repairing the electronic unit costs 2,500–5,000 rubles, but it is often cheaper to replace it entirely (cost of a new module: 4,000–7,000 rubles). In models Stinol before 2010, the control unit is analog and breaks down less often.

How to reset the error on the display?

To reset the error (for example, E5), unplug the refrigerator for 10 minutes. If the error appears again, diagnostics of the board is required. In some models, the reset is performed by holding. button Super Cool for 5 seconds (see instructions).

6. Problems with the door seal

If the rubber seal on the refrigerator door Stinol has lost elasticity or is damaged, warm air constantly penetrates inside. The compressor is forced to work without stopping, trying to compensate for the heat flow.

How to check the seal:

• 📏 Clot test: close the door and shine a flashlight along the seal. If light is visible, the rubber is leaking.
• 🧊 Paper test: place a sheet of paper between the seal and the body. If the sheet falls out, the seal does not hold.
• 👆 Tactile check: run your finger along the perimeter of the seal. If you feel thickenings or cracks - rubber band. worn out.

How to restore the seal:

1. If the rubber is simply dirty, wash it with warm water and soap and lubricate with silicone grease (do not use vegetable oil!).
2. If the seal is deformed, heat it with a hairdryer (temperature 60–70°C) and shape it by pressing the door.
3. If there are cracks or breaks, replace the seal (cost: 1,200–2,500 rubles).

In models Stinol-100 i Stinol-101 the seal is mounted on self-tapping screws, in newer ones (for example, Stinol-116) - on glue. To replace, you will need to carefully remove the old rubber band and install a new one, starting from the corners.

7. Incorrect installation of the refrigerator

If the refrigerator Stinol is uneven, close to the wall or next to a heat source (battery, stove), the compressor can work without stops. This is not a breakdown, but over time it will lead to wear of the parts.

What to check:

• 📏 Level: the refrigerator must stand level (allowable slope: no more than 2°). Adjust the height of the legs.
• 🔥 Distance to heat sources: at least 50 cm from stove, 30 cm from the battery.
• 🪟 Ventilation gaps: between the back wall and the wall should be at least 5 cm.
• ☀️ Direct sunlight: if the refrigerator is located near a window, close it curtain.

In models with No Frost system (for example, Stinol NF 320) it is especially important to maintain clearances - overheating of the condenser leads to malfunctions of the fan and freezing of the evaporator.

What to do if the refrigerator does not turn off: step-by-step algorithm

If your Stinol works without stopping, follow this plan:

1. Step 1. Check the seal and door:
   • Close the door and pull the handle - if resistance is felt, the seal is working properly.
   • Clean the rubber from dirt and grease.
2. Step 2. Inspect the back wall:
   • If the condenser (grid) is completely cold, there may be a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube.
   • If the compressor scalding hot - there is a malfunction in it or the start relay.
3. Step 3. Check the thermostat:
   • Set the regulator to minimum cooling.
   • If the compressor does not turn off, replace the thermostat.
4. Step 4. Diagnose the electronic unit:
   • If an error appears on the display, reset it (turn off the power for 10 minutes).
   • If the error appears again, the board needs to be repaired.

Step 5. Call a technician if:

• There are signs of a leak frequency data-i="261">Problem
• The compressor does not start or operates intermittently.
• Burnt elements are visible on the control board.

Average cost of refrigerator repairs Stinol depending on the problem:

Problem	Repair cost (RUB)	Cost of spare parts (RUB)
Replacing the thermostat	1 000–1 500	800–1 500
Cleaning the capillary tube + refilling freon	3 500–5 000	1 500–2 500
Replacement of the compressor	4 000–6 000	5 000–8 000
Repair of the electronic unit	2 500–4 000	1 500–3 000
Replacement of the seal	800–1 200	1 200–2 500

If the refrigerator Stinol has served for more than 10 years, consider buying a new one. Repairs will cost 50–70% of the cost of a new one. equipment, and the risk of repeated breakdowns is high.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about Stinol refrigerators

The Stinol refrigerator does not turn off, but freezes normally - what's the matter?

Most likely, the problem is refrigerator compartment thermostat (the freezer is working from a separate sensor). Check the refrigerator compartment door seal and adjust the thermostat to a lower temperature. If this does not help, replace the thermostat.

After defrosting, the Stinol refrigerator does not turn off. What should I do?

Probable. reasons:

• Moisture got into the chamber and froze on the evaporator (especially important for models without No Frost). Turn off the refrigerator for 12 hours so that the ice melts.
• During defrosting, damaged capillary tube or temperature sensor.
• Thermostat settings have gone wrong - set the regulator to position “2” or “3”.

The compressor of the Stinol refrigerator runs non-stop and is very hot?

Yes, it's dangerous! Compressor overheating leads to:

• Melting of the winding insulation (risk of short circuit).
• Burnout of the start relay.
• Complete failure of the compressor (replacement will be required).

Immediately unplug the refrigerator and call a technician. If the compressor does not turn off for more than a day, most likely it will have to be replaced.

Is it possible to fill freon into the Stinol refrigerator yourself?

Theoretically, yes, but in practice it is extremely dangerous:

• Freon R-600a (isobutane) is explosive if leaked.
• For refilling you need vacuum pump i pressure manifold.
• An error during refueling will lead to a repeated leak or breakdown of the compressor.

Cost of professional refueling: 2,500–4,000 rubles. It’s not worth the risk.

The Stinol refrigerator with No Frost does not turn off and is noisy. What to check?

In models with No Frost (Stinol NF 320, Stinol STS 167) the reasons may be specific:

• The fan is faulty —check if it spins when the door is open (it should stop).
• Evaporator frozen —turn off the refrigerator at 12 hours for complete defrosting.
• Broken defrost heater —replacement of heating element required (cost: 1,500–2,500 rubles).