Why the compressor of the Indesit refrigerator does not start: causes and repairs

The situation when the refrigerator Indesit stops freezing, and the compressor is silent or makes only a short click, often takes you by surprise. The internal space begins to heat up, the food spoils, and the owner is faced with an urgent question about the causes of the breakdown. Most often, the problem lies not in the motor itself, but in its starting or thermoregulation circuits.

Do not panic and immediately call a technician, since in half of the cases the fault can be diagnosed independently. Compressor This is the heart of the refrigeration unit, but a complex electrical circuit is responsible for its operation. Understanding the operating principle of start-protection relay and temperature sensors will help you save time and money.

In this article we will analyze in detail all the possible reasons why the engine does not start, from a banal voltage drop to an interturn short circuit windings We will look at an action algorithm that will allow you to accurately determine the culprit of silence in your kitchen. Remember that safety comes first when working with electrical appliances.

Diagnostics of no start: first steps

Before disassembling the back panel and grabbing the multimeter, it is necessary to carry out initial visual and auditory diagnostics. If the refrigerator Indesit is plugged in, the light is on, but the compressor is silent, listen to the sounds. A dull hum that turns into a click and subsides indicates an attempt to start, which is blocked by the protection.

It is important to check whether the defrosting system and fans are working at all (if the model No Frost). Sometimes the user hears the fan running and mistakenly believes that the compressor is also running. Make sure that the rear grille of the condenser remains cold, which will confirm that the motor is not running.

Check the integrity of the power cable and socket. A trivial but common case is a bad contact in the plug or a “knocked out” circuit breaker in the panel that feeds this particular line. It is also worth ruling out a malfunction of the thermostat, which simply does not give the command to turn on.

⚠️ Attention: Before any manipulations with the electrical components of the refrigerator, be sure to disconnect the device from the network. Working under 220V voltage is deadly to life.

📊 What symptom do you observe in your refrigerator?
The compressor hums and clicks, but does not start
Complete silence, the refrigerator does not reacts
The compressor works, but does not freeze
The refrigerator turns on and off at short intervals

Faults in the start-up relay and thermostat

One of the most common reasons why the compressor does not start refrigerator Indesit, is the failure of the start-up relay. This small black box, placed on the side of the motor rod, is responsible for sending an impulse to the starting winding. Inside it there is a posistor or coil, which degrade over time.

If the relay is faulty, it does not create the necessary magnetic field or resistance to start the rotor. As a result, the compressor tries to jerk, a loud click is heard, the thermal protection is triggered, and the cycle repeats. Replacing this part often solves the problem of a “humming” motor.

The thermostat (thermostat) is the second candidate for replacement. If its contacts are oxidized or stuck open, the signal to start the engine simply does not arrive. In models with electronic control, this is responsible for the temperature sensor, which could have failed or lost contact.

To check the relay, it must be removed and shaken. If a rattling sound is heard inside, it means the mechanical part is damaged. Electronic relays are checked only by a continuity tester for resistance compliance.

Problems with the electrical windings of the compressor

If the relay and thermostat are in order, the problem may lie in the very heart of the unit - the electric motor windings. Refrigerator compressors Indesit equipped with two main windings: working and starting. Violation of the integrity of any of them leads to the impossibility of starting.

Winding break is a complete break in the circuit. The multimeter in resistance measurement mode will show infinity (one on the screen) between the contacts. In this case, the engine does not hum and does not try to start, since the current simply does not flow.

A more dangerous situation is interturn short circuit. The insulation inside the coil is broken, the turns are shorted to each other. The resistance in this case will be significantly lower than normal. In this case, the compressor can get very hot, hum, but not develop the required speed, and the thermal relay will constantly turn it off.

The third option is breakdown on the housing. This is a situation where a phase shorts to the metal housing of the compressor. This not only disables the equipment, but also creates a risk of electric shock when touching the refrigerator body. The test is carried out by measuring the resistance between the contacts and the copper tube.

How to ring the compressor correctly?

Remove the terminal box cover. Disconnect the wires from the compressor contacts. Switch the multimeter to resistance (ohms) measurement mode. Measure the resistance between pairs of contacts (Start-Run, Run-Common, Start-Common). The sum of the two smaller resistances must equal the largest. If the resistance between any contact and the housing is less than infinity, the compressor is faulty.

Compressor wedge: mechanical blocking of the rotor

Sometimes the electrical part is working, the relay clicks, a huge current is consumed, but the rotor stands still. These are signs of a compressor wedge. Inside the sealed casing there are rubbing pairs of pistons and cylinders. If there is no oil or moisture enters the refrigerant circuit, metal scuffing occurs.

Mechanical blocking prevents the shaft from making even one revolution. The motor is under maximum current load, which quickly heats the windings. In this case, the thermal protection relay works properly, opening the circuit to prevent a fire, but also preventing the refrigerator from working.

There is a “wedging” method by applying increased voltage to the starting winding, but at home it is extremely dangerous and rarely gives a long-lasting result. If the compressor is jammed, the most reasonable solution is to replace it.

Often the jam is accompanied by a characteristic metallic clang or knock when trying to start. If you hear such sounds, further attempts to turn on may finally finish off the unit.

☑️ Symptoms of a compressor wedge

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Faults in the control circuit and wiring

Do not discount the condition wiring. In old refrigerators Indesit the wires could rub against vibration of the case or burn out in places of poor contact. Oxidation of the contacts in the terminal block creates a high contact resistance, which is why the required voltage does not reach the relay.

In models with an electronic control module (where instead of a mechanical thermostat there is a panel with buttons), the problem may be in the “brain” itself. If the relay on the control board is burnt out or the triac is faulty, the command to start the compressor will not be physically executed.

It is also worth checking the integrity of the wires going from the thermostat to the compressor. Often, at the entrance to the refrigerator body, the wiring breaks due to constant cycles of compression and expansion of the door seal.

Symptom Probable cause Sound character Action
Silence, lamp is on Thermostat is faulty or open circuit Absent Close the thermostat contacts
Humming and clicking Faulty starting relay or wedge Humming, clicking Replacing the relay, checking the compressor
Humming without a click Sticking relay contacts Constant hum Urgently turn off, replace the relay
Quiet hum, no cold Freon leak or blockage Uniform hum Call a technician for refueling

The influence of voltage drops and external factors

Electronics and refrigerator engines Indesit sensitive to quality electrical networks. If voltage surges frequently occur in your network, this could lead to degradation of the windings or breakdown of the starting capacitor (if there is one in the circuit).

Low voltage (less than 190V) does not allow the engine to develop sufficient torque to start. The compressor will hum, trying to start, but the rotor will not budge. Long-term operation in this mode is guaranteed to lead to combustion.

It is also worth considering the temperature in the room. If the refrigerator is located close to a wall or heating radiator, overheating of the condenser can lead to an increase in pressure in the system, which makes it difficult to start the compressor.

⚠️ Attention: If you live in an area with unstable power supply, installing a voltage stabilizer or voltage control relay (VCR) is mandatory. This will protect the expensive compressor from network surges.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to start an Indesit refrigerator without a starting relay?

Theoretically, you can start the engine by applying voltage directly to the starting winding, but this is absolutely impossible to do in living conditions. Without a relay, the engine will not be able to switch to operating mode and will burn out in a few seconds due to the absence of a break in the starting circuit.

How much does it cost to replace a compressor on an Indesit refrigerator?

The cost consists of the price of a new unit (from 4,000 to 8,000 rubles depending on the power and brand) and the cost of the work of a specialist (from 3,000 up to 5000 rubles). You will also need to refill with freon, which will add about 2,000 rubles to the amount.

Why is the compressor warm to the touch, but does not start?

This is a sign that there was an attempt to start, current flowed through the windings, heating them, but the rotor did not turn. Most likely, the thermal protection has tripped. Allow the refrigerator to cool for 2-3 hours before the next diagnostic.

Can the defrost timer block the start of the compressor?

Yes, in system refrigerators No Frost a faulty defrost timer or defrost sensor can become “stuck” in defrost mode. In this mode, power is not supplied to the compressor until the system exits the defrost cycle.