Have you opened the refrigerator, and inside there is unexpected warmth instead of the usual cold? Or did you hear that the motor-compressor stopped humming, although previously its work could be heard several meters away? These are sure signs that the compressor is not starting. The reasons can vary from a simple lack of power to a serious breakdown requiring replacement of the unit. In this article we will look at why the refrigerator compressor refuses to turn on, and what to do about it - from simple checks to complex repairs. all possible reasons, why the refrigerator compressor refuses to turn on, and what to do about it - from simple checks to complex repairs.
It is important to understand: the compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator. If it doesn't work, then there will be no cooling. But before you panic and call a professional, there are a few key things to check. Perhaps the problem can be solved in 5 minutes without disassembling the equipment. For example, Indesit, Samsung or Atlant often suffer from oxidized contacts in the plug, and in models LG with the system No Frost overheat protection may work. Below is a detailed analysis of each case.
1. Checking the power supply: why the compressor is silent
The first thing that needs to be ruled out is a simple lack of electricity. Yes, it sounds obvious, but in 30% of cases the problem lies precisely here. Start with the plug: remove it from the socket and inspect it for melting, blackening or cracks. If the plug is apparently intact, check the socket - connect another device to it (for example, a table lamp). If the light does not light up, there is a problem with the outlet or house wiring.
If the outlet is working, inspect the refrigerator's power cord. It often gets frayed at bends (especially at the back wall) or is chewed by pets. Test the cord with a multimeter in circuit test mode: the resistance between the plug and the terminals on the compressor should be close to zero. If the device shows a break, the cord must be replaced.
- 🔌 Plug or socket: melting, blackening, lack of contact.
- 🔗 Power cord: frayed, creases, traces of rodents.
- ⚡ The machine in the panel: could have triggered due to overload (check if the plugs have been knocked out).
Don’t forget about surge filter (if it is used). Sometimes it blocks power due to an internal fault. Try plugging the refrigerator directly into an outlet. Also, some models (for example Bosch KGE39XW2AR) have a built-in fuse in the plug - during a power surge it blows and needs to be replaced.
2. Thermostat: why it can block the compressor from starting
The thermostat (or thermostat) is the “brain” that decides when the compressor will turn on. If it fails, the motor may either run without stopping or not start at all. To check the thermostat, follow these steps:
- Unplug the refrigerator.
- Remove the thermostat protective cover (usually located inside the chamber, behind the plastic panel).
- Find two wires going to the thermostat and short them together (simulating a command on switching on).
If the compressor hums after a short circuit, the thermostat is faulty and requires replacement. If the motor does not respond, the problem lies deeper (for example, in the start relay or the compressor itself). In models with electronic control (for example, Samsung RB37J5240SA), the thermostat can be built into the board - here you can’t do without diagnostics with a multimeter.
☑️ Checking the thermostat
Pay attention to thermostat setting. If the temperature control knob is set to minimum (for example +8°C), the compressor may not turn on, since the actual temperature in the chamber is higher than the set one. Try setting the average value (for example, +4°C) and wait 10-15 minutes.
3. Starting and protective relay: invisible culprits of breakdown
The relay is a small unit that is attached directly to the compressor. It is responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overheating. If the relay fails, the compressor either does not turn on or tries to start, but immediately turns off with a characteristic click. Signs of a relay malfunction:
- 🔊 The compressor hums, but does not start (attempts to start are heard).
- ⚡ After the click, the motor is silent for 2-3 minutes, then tries again.
- 🔥 The relay body is hot to the touch (indicates a short short circuit).
To check the relay, remove it from the compressor and inspect the contacts. If they are oxidized or burnt, clean them with fine sandpaper. Also test the relay coil with a multimeter: the resistance should be in the range of 20–50 Ohms. If the device shows an open or short circuit, the relay must be replaced. In refrigerators Atlant i Stinol the relay often fails due to power surges, so it is recommended to connect the equipment through a stabilizer.
How to distinguish a relay malfunction from a compressor breakdown?
If, when closing the relay contacts directly (bypassing the protection) the compressor starts - the relay is to blame. If the motor does not respond even to direct connection, the problem is in the compressor or windings.
Modern models (for example, LG GA-B489YQZL) use posistor relay, which is non-separable and can only be replaced. It can be diagnosed by a characteristic crackling sound when trying to start the compressor. If you hear a crackling sound, but the motor does not start, the posistor is faulty.
4. Compressor malfunctions: when replacement is required
If all previous checks have failed, the problem may lie in the compressor itself. The most common malfunctions:
| Symptom | Probable cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor does not hum, there are no signs of life | Winding breakage or inter-turn short circuit | Replacing the compressor |
| The motor hums, but does not start | Seizing of the piston or bearings | Repair or replacement |
| Compressor turns on for 1-2 seconds and turns off | Overheat protection activation | Checking the relay and motor cooling |
| Extreme heating of the compressor housing | Lack of oil or worn parts | Master diagnostics |
To diagnose the compressor you will need a multimeter. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network, remove the starting relay and ring the motor windings:
Common point (C) - starting (S): resistance 20–30 Ohms.Common point (C) - working (R): resistance 10–15 Ohms.Starting (S) - working (R): resistance 30–40 Ohms (sum of the previous two).
If the resistance of at least one winding is zero (short circuit) or infinity (break), the compressor is faulty. Also pay attention to motor housing: if it is broken to ground (the resistance between the housing and any winding is not infinite), it is life-threatening - urgent replacement is required.
5. Electronic control board: hidden threat
In refrigerators with electronic control (for example, Samsung RL-58 GEBG1 or Liebherr CN 4313) the board is responsible for starting the compressor. If it fails, the motor may not receive a command to turn on. Signs of a board malfunction:
- 📛 The display does not turn on or shows an error (for example,
E1,F5). - 🔄 The compressor turns on randomly, without connection with the temperature.
- 🔌 The refrigerator does not respond to button presses.
Independent board repair requires skills in soldering and diagnosing radio elements. If you are not a specialist, it is better to contact the service. However, you can try resetting the settings: unplug the refrigerator for 10-15 minutes, then turn it on again. Sometimes this helps with firmware failures.
If an error appears on the display, decipher it according to the instructions for the model. For example, in refrigerators Bosch the error F05 indicates a problem with the temperature sensor, and E22 indicates a compressor malfunction. This will help narrow down the search. malfunctions.
6. Temperature sensors: why the refrigerator “does not understand” that it is time to cool
In models with electronic control, temperature sensors (thermistors) are responsible for starting the compressor. If the sensor fails, the board does not receive correct data and does not turn on the motor. As a rule, 2-3 sensors are installed in the refrigerator:
- 🌡️ Evaporator sensor (in the freezer).
- 🌡️ Refrigerator compartment sensor (on the back wall).
- 🌡️ Environmental sensor (in some models).
To check the sensor, unplug the refrigerator and disconnect the sensor connector from the board. Measure its resistance with a multimeter at room temperature (usually 4-6 kOhm) Then place the sensor in a glass of cold water - if the readings do not change or are zero/infinity, the sensor is faulty.
In refrigerators Indesit and Ariston sensors often fail due to condensation that gets on the contacts. If you notice oxidation on the connectors, clean them with alcohol and check the circuit again.
7. Frozen fan: a problem with No Frost systems.
In refrigerators with a system No Frost (for example, Samsung RB-30 J3200EF or LG GA-B409SLGL), the fan is responsible for air circulation. If it freezes or breaks, the compressor may not turn on due to protection. Signs of the problem:
- ❄️ There is a thick layer of ice on the back wall of the freezer.
- 🌀 The fan does not rotate or makes a grinding noise.
- 🔇 The refrigerator is quieter than usual (no air noise).
To troubleshoot the problem, defrost the refrigerator for 12–24 hours. If after defrosting the fan does not start, check it with a multimeter: the winding resistance should be 200–500 Ohms. Also inspect the blades - they could be broken or blocked by ice.
8. When to call a technician: signs of serious damage
Some faults cannot be repaired yourself. Contact a specialist if:
- ⚠️ The compressor hums, but does not create pressure (freon leakage is possible).
- ⚠️ Traces of oil are visible on the motor housing (depressurization of the system).
- ⚠️ The refrigerator receives an electric current or sparks when turned on.
- ⚠️ After replacing parts (relay, thermostat), the problem remained.
A master is also needed if refilling freon or changing oil in the compressorrequired. These procedures require special equipment and skills. For example, in refrigerators Beko and Gorenje there is often a leak of freon through microcracks in the evaporator - here it is not possible without professional diagnostics. get by.
The cost of repairs depends on the complexity. breakdowns. For example, replacing a compressor will cost 5–8 thousand rubles (excluding spare parts), and repairing a circuit board will cost 3–5 thousand rubles. If a refrigerator is older than 10 years, it is sometimes cheaper to buy a new one than to repair an old one.
⚠️ Attention: Refrigerator parts (especially compressors and circuit boards) often differ even within the same model, but from different years of manufacture, before purchasing spare parts, check the exact modification of yours. device - it is indicated on the nameplate on the back.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about a non-working compressor
Is it possible to start the compressor by hitting it?
No, this is a myth A blow can temporarily “move” it! a jammed piston, but most often this leads to final breakdown of the motor or depressurization of the system. If the compressor does not start, look for the reason in the electrics or mechanics, but do not resort to “old-fashioned” methods.
The refrigerator turns on for 5 seconds and turns off - what to do?
This is a typical symptom. operation starting relay or overheat protection. Check:
- Temperature of the compressor housing (if hot, let cool 1-2 hours).
- Relay contacts (clean them from oxidation).
- Resistance of the compressor windings (possible inter-turn short circuit).
If the problem persists, call a technician for diagnostics.
A click is heard, but the compressor does not start. What is it?
A click is a response. start relay. If after the click the motor does not hum, the following are possible:
- Relay malfunction (call with a multimeter).
- Breakage of the compressor starting winding.
- Jamming of the motor shaft (try to turn it manually).
How to check if the compressor is working if it does not turn on?
Turn off the refrigerator, remove the starting relay and ring the windings compressor with a multimeter:
C-S(starting): 20–30 Ohm.C-R(operating): 10–15 Ohm.S-R(total): 30–40 Ohm.
If at least one value is outside the limits - the compressor is faulty.
Is it worth repairing a refrigerator that is older than 10 years?
It depends on the breakdown and the cost of spare parts. For example:
- If it breaks relay or thermostat (cheap parts) - repairs are justified.
- If required compressor replacement or freon leak - it is often cheaper to buy a new refrigerator, especially if the old one non-energy efficient (lower class
A+).
For comparison: repairing a compressor will cost 8-12 thousand rubles, and a new class refrigerator A+++ can be bought for 20-25 thousand rubles.