The situation when it is warm in the refrigerator compartment, food begins to spoil, and the freezer continues to freeze properly, often takes you by surprise. This is a classic symptom of poor refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system. Unlike complete failure of the compressor, here the problem is local in nature, which requires careful diagnosis, but does not always mean expensive repairs.
In modern models with the system No Frost and dual-circuit units, the reasons may be radically different. If you are faced with something The refrigerator does not hold the temperature in the upper compartment, do not rush to call a specialist right away. Sometimes it is enough to carry out basic defrosting or check the thermostat settings to bring the appliance back to life.
Understanding the principles of operation of your unit will help you quickly identify the malfunction. In this article, we will analyze the mechanical and electronic reasons why The refrigerator has stopped freezing in the main compartment, and determine what steps you can take on your own, and where professional intervention will be required.
Problems with refrigerant circulation and blockages
The most common cause of the situation when the freezer works, but the refrigerator does notis a violation of freon circulation. In single-compressor models, the refrigerant first passes through the evaporator of the freezer, cooling it to low temperatures, and only then enters the refrigerator compartment. If an obstacle arises along the way, the freon simply does not reach the upper compartment.
Often the culprit is a clogged capillary tube. Microscopic particles of debris that entered the system during production or formed as a result of decomposition of the compressor oil clog the narrow channel. As a result, the pressure drops and the refrigerant boils ahead of time, remaining in the freezer, and warm gas reaches the refrigerator.
Another option is a freon leak. If a microcrack has formed in the system, the amount of gas decreases. It is enough to cool a small volume of the freezer, but it is not enough for a full cycle. It is difficult to determine a leak visually; it often manifests itself as oily spots on the tubes or a characteristic hissing.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a hissing sound or see traces of oil on the tubes at the back of the refrigerator, you should not operate the equipment. This can lead to the compressor burning out due to dry operation.
To diagnose blockages, technicians use pressure gauges, checking the pressure in the system. It is almost impossible to eliminate a clogged capillary tube on your own - it requires purging with nitrogen under pressure and evacuation of the system, which is impossible without specialized equipment.
How do technicians find a freon leak?
Specialists use leak detectors or a soap solution. In difficult cases, the system is filled with nitrogen under pressure and left for a day, monitoring the drop in pressure gauge readings.
Malfunctions of the defrost system (No Frost)
In models with the system No Frost the situation when the refrigerator does not freezeis often associated with freezing of the evaporator. Unlike older models, here the cold is pumped by a fan. If the evaporator, located behind the rear wall, becomes overgrown with a “fur coat,” the air flows are blocked, and cold air simply does not enter the main chamber.
Several elements are responsible for the defrosting process: a timer (or electronic module), a heating element (heater) and a defrost sensor. If one of them fails, the defrost cycle will not start. Ice accumulates gradually, blocking the air ducts. Visually this may not be noticeable, since the evaporator is hidden by a plastic panel.
An indirect sign of such a breakdown is the formation of ice at the bottom of the freezer or on the floor under the refrigerator. The fan may also begin to hum or crackle, touching frozen ice with its blades. In this case temperature in the refrigerator increases, although the compressor operates continuously.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
To temporarily solve the problem, you can completely defrost the refrigerator by turning it off from the network for at least 24 hours. If after switching on the equipment worked normally, but after 1-2 weeks the symptoms recurred, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system is faulty and requires replacement.
Failures in the operation of the thermostat and sensors
Electronics controls the operation of a modern refrigerator by reading readings from sensors. If thermostat or the air sensor transmits incorrect data, the control module may “think” that the chamber is cold enough and does not turn on the compressor or open the air supply damper.
In two-chamber models with one compressor, a damper is often used to regulate the flow of cold air from the freezer to refrigeration compartment. If the damper drive is stuck in the closed position or the motor is burned out, the cold simply does not flow. You can check this by listening: when you open the refrigerator door, you should hear a characteristic click or sound of the mechanism operating.
In models with electronic control, error codes may appear on the display. For example, y LG or Samsung these may be combinations of letters and numbers indicating a malfunction of a particular sensor. The decoding of the codes must be found in the instructions for the specific model.
- 🌡️ Air temperature sensor - measures the degrees inside the chamber.
- ❄️ Evaporator sensor - monitors the temperature of the cooling element.
- 🚪 Door opening sensor - signals the module about the status doors.
A frequent problem is the failure of the thermostat itself in mechanical models. If its sensitive element (bellows) has lost its tightness, the contacts will not close and the compressor will not start until you forcibly turn it on, bypassing the regulator.
Mechanical damage and wear of seals
Sometimes the reason that the refrigerator does not freeze wellis trivial and lies in a violation of the chamber's tightness. If the rubber door seal is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat loss, working non-stop, but does not have time to cool the volume to the desired temperature.
You can check the seal in a simple way: hold a sheet of paper with the door and try to pull it out. If the paper is pulled out without force, it means the seal is broken. Also inspect the rubber for cracks and dents. Often the seal can be restored by heating it with a hairdryer or re-gluing it.
Mechanical damage can also occur inside. If you damage the shelf or place food incorrectly, blocking the air duct outlets, circulation will be affected. In the chambers No Frost the shelves cannot be tightly packed at the back wall - there must be gaps there for air movement.
Another mechanical factor is the skew of the door. If the refrigerator is not level or the hinges are loose, the door will not fit tightly. You can adjust the position using the front support legs or by tightening the hinge fasteners.
⚠️ Attention: Refrigeration equipment manufacturers regularly update the design features of seals and fastening systems. Before purchasing spare parts, check the article numbers with official catalogs or service center consultants.
Diagnostics of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. If it works but does not create enough pressure, or if it turns on and turns off immediately, the cold will not flow into the chamber. A symptom of a malfunction may be a quiet hum with an intermittent click - this is when the thermal protection relay is triggered, turning off the motor.
Often the starting relay is to blame. This is a small block that fits onto the compressor contact. Inside there is a coil or posistor that starts the motor. Over time they burn out. Replacing a relay is one of the simplest and cheapest repair procedures that you can do yourself.
If the compressor itself has an interturn short circuit or has exhausted its service life, its power drops. It can drive freon, but the pressure is not enough for a full cooling cycle of the two chambers. In such cases, only replacing the unit often helps.
To check the compressor, you can carefully (observe safety precautions!) disconnect the relay and check the contacts, as well as the motor windings, with a multimeter. The resistance between different pairs of contacts should be approximately the same, and the resistance relative to the body should be infinite (there should be no continuity).
Table of main faults
For convenience, we systematize the main symptoms and probable causes in a table. This will help you quickly navigate the nature of the breakdown.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the refrigerator is warm | Clogging capillary tube, freon leak | High (needs a technician) |
| Ice on the back wall of the freezer | Malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, sensor) | Medium (replacement parts) |
| The compressor clicks and does not start | The starting relay or the compressor itself is faulty | Low/Medium |
| The temperature floats, the food thaws | Door leakage, sensor failure | Low |
When you need to call a technician
Despite the desire to save money, there are situations when self-repair can lead to permanent equipment breakdown. If diagnostics indicate problems with the tightness of the circuit (freon leakage, blockage), professional equipment is required: a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station, a refrigerant cylinder.
Also, you should not go inside sealed systems if you do not have experience with soldering copper pipes. Poor soldering will lead to repeated leakage after a short time. In addition, incorrect refilling with freon (its type or quantity) can damage the compressor.
If after defrosting within 24 hours the problem is not solved, or you find obvious mechanical damage to the tubes, it is better to contact a service center. Professional diagnostics are often free or inexpensive, but will save you money on buying a new refrigerator.
Prevention and operating rules
In order the refrigerator was working for a long time and without failures, it is important to follow simple operating rules. Do not place hot food in the chamber - this puts extra stress on the compressor and leads to excessive formation of condensation and ice. Cover liquid dishes with lids to prevent moisture from settling on the walls.
Regularly, at least once every six months, wash the refrigerator and check the condition of the seals. Keep the drain hole (if there is one) free of debris. Make sure that the refrigerator stands level and the gap between the back wall and the wall of the room is at least 5-7 cm for normal ventilation of the condenser.
Do not overload the shelves with products. Cold air should circulate freely inside the chambers. If you notice that the appliances start to work louder or take longer to cycle, this is the first sign of possible problems that are easier to solve at an early stage.
Why didn’t the refrigerator immediately start freezing after defrosting?
After a long defrost (24 hours), the system may take time (from 2 to 12 hours) to return to operating mode. The compressor needs to reach the temperature, and in the first hours it can work continuously. If after a day the cold has not appeared, the problem is deeper.
Is it possible to use the refrigerator if the freezer is working but the top is not?
For a short time - yes, if you transfer perishable foods to the freezer or use them. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which may overheat, trying to compensate for the loss of cold. It is better to eliminate the malfunction.
How often do you need to defrost a No Frost refrigerator?
The system No Frost assumes automatic defrosting of the evaporator. However, once every 1-2 years it is recommended to completely defrost the refrigerator (turn it off for a day) to defrost hard-to-reach places and carry out general cleaning, since ice can still accumulate in hidden cavities.
What to do if water has formed in the refrigerator?
Water at the bottom of the refrigerator compartment most often indicates a clogged drainage hole. It is located on the back wall at the bottom. You can clean it with a special stick (included) or a soft wire/brush, then pour in a little warm water to check the drainage.