The situation when the refrigerator stops coping with its main function often takes you by surprise. Products begin to deteriorate, and an unpleasant odor appears inside the chambers, signaling the beginning of spoilage. Owners of equipment may notice that temperature inside the main chamber is not low enough, while the freezer compartment continues to operate as normal or, conversely, also stops freezing.
Before calling a technician, it is necessary to carry out an initial diagnosis, since in 30% of cases the problem lies not in breakdown, but in improper operation. Modern models refrigerators, such as Indesit, Atlant or Beko, are equipped with complex electronics, but the basic principles of operation remain unchanged. Understanding why a refrigerator does not cool well will help you avoid costly repairs or quickly fix the problem.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of failures, paying attention to refrigerant leaks and problems with thermoregulation. You will also learn what steps you can take on your own, and when you cannot do without the intervention of professionals.
Damage to the sealing rubber and violation of the tightness
One of the most common reasons why a refrigerator does not cool well is a violation of the tightness of the internal circuit. The sealing rubber on the doors loses elasticity over time, cracks or deforms. Through the resulting cracks, warm air enters the chamber, forcing compressor to work without stopping, trying to compensate for the heat influx.
You can check the tightness using a simple sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter; If it falls out or is pulled out too easily, the fit is poor. In some cases, it is enough to wash the rubber and lubricate it with silicone, but in case of severe damage it will be necessary replacement of the seal.
⚠️ Attention! If you notice that the rubber seal has come away from the body in the corner, do not try to glue it with superglue. This will make the rubber “oaky” and the seal will be compromised even more. Use only special adhesives for rubber.
Additionally, it is worth checking the door hinges. If they get sore, the door warps, and even whole rubber will not be able to provide a tight fit. Adjusting the hinges often solves the problem without replacing parts.
- 🔍 Visually inspect the rubber for cracks and tears along the entire length.
- 🧊 Check whether ice is freezing in places where the door does not fit tightly.
- 🚪 Make sure the door closes tightly and does not bounces off when lightly pressed.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (thermostat) is the “brain” that commands the compressor to turn on or off. If this element fails, the refrigerator may not “know” that it has become warm inside and simply not start the cooling cycle. In models with electronic control, they are responsible for this temperature sensors, which can transmit incorrect data to the control board.
Signs of a malfunctioning thermostat often manifest themselves in the fact that the unit is either silent for days or hums without interruption. In mechanical models, such as old Stinol or Zil, the thermostat can be replaced independently by selecting an analogue according to the markings. In electronic systems, for example, in Samsung or LG, diagnostics are more complicated and require a multimeter.
How to check a mechanical thermostat?
To check For a mechanical thermostat, remove it and immerse the sensitive tube in ice water. If there is no click, or, conversely, the contacts do not open when heated, the part is faulty.
If only one chamber is not cooling well, and the second is working normally, the problem is most likely localized in the sensor or thermostat of this zone.
Leakage of refrigerant (freon) from the system
The most serious technical problem is leakage freon. The refrigerant circulates through a system of tubes and, evaporating, takes heat from the chambers. If a microcrack has formed in the circuit (often due to corrosion or mechanical damage during cleaning), the gas gradually evaporates and the cooling efficiency drops to zero.
Symptoms of a leak may appear gradually. First, the refrigerator begins to freeze worse, the intervals between starts increase, then the compressor starts working continuously, but there is no cold. In advanced cases, swelling may appear on the back wall or, conversely, a complete lack of heating of the condenser.
Freon leakage cannot be eliminated by simple “topping up”. It is necessary to find the location of the damage, seal it and only after evacuating the system, fill in a new volume of refrigerant. Attempts to simply add gas will lead to repeated breakdown after a short time.
| Leak type | Symptoms | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| Pipeline corrosion | Rust spots, slow disappearance of cold | High (replacement of section) |
| Mechanical damage | Traces of impacts, sharp decline in productivity | Average (soldering) |
| Poor quality factory soldering | Appears in the first 1-3 years | Warranty case |
Clogged capillary tube or filter drier
There are bottlenecks in the refrigerant circulation system where blockages can form. Most often, the capillary tube or filter drier becomes clogged. The cause is moisture that has entered the system or oil breakdown products, which turn into a paraffin plug. This prevents the normal flow of freon.
Signs of a blockage are often similar to a leak: the refrigerator hums, but does not cool. However, if you touch the condenser (grid at the back), you will notice that it is only hot at the beginning or, on the contrary, cold, whereas during normal operation it should be uniformly warm. The filter drier can also be cold or covered with frost.
To eliminate this problem you need:
- ❄️ Blowing the system with nitrogen under pressure to remove the plug.
- 🛠️ Replacing the filter drier with a new one (disposable element).
- 💨 Evacuating the circuit and filling with freon.
It is difficult to carry out this procedure on your own, as specialized equipment is required. Attempts to clean the system without a vacuum sealer can lead to moisture and acid entering the compressor, which will completely damage it.
Problems with the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. If it is faulty, the refrigerant cannot circulate. However, often the motor itself is intact, and the problem lies in start relay or the capacitor. The relay is responsible for starting the engine; if it burns out, the compressor either does not turn on at all, or makes a click and hums for a couple of seconds, after which it turns off.
In some cases, the compressor may work, but not develop the required pressure. This is called "the compressor does not pump." This can be determined by using a pressure gauge when connected to the service fitting. Also a sign of a dying compressor is its excessive heating (up to 90 degrees and above) and a specific burning smell.
Replacing a compressor is a complex process that requires resoldering the tubes and refueling the system. In older models of refrigerators Biryusa or World this may not be economically feasible; it is easier to buy a new unit.
The influence of the defrost mode and the No Frost system
In refrigerators with a system No Frost (for example, Indesit, Samsung, LG), the problem of poor cooling is often associated with a violation of the evaporator defrost cycle. The heater heating element, timer or defrost sensor may fail. As a result, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a “coat” of ice, which blocks the channels for supplying cold air to the chamber.
Visually, you may not see the ice, since the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic panel. But if you look behind it, you can find an ice monolith. Cold air simply cannot penetrate into the main compartment, and the temperature there rises.
To test this hypothesis, you can completely defrost the refrigerator:
- Unplug the appliance for at least 24 hours (preferably 48).
- Leave the doors open to remove all the ice has melted.
- Turn on the refrigerator and check the operation.
If after defrosting the refrigerator began to freeze perfectly, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returned, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system is faulty. Diagnostics of the heating element and sensors is required.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
⚠️ Attention! Do not use a hair dryer or hot water to speed up the defrosting of ice on the evaporator. A sudden change in temperature can damage the plastic and tubes, and water that gets on the electrical contacts will cause a short circuit.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator hum, but does not get cold, and what to do first?
If you hear a hum, but it is cold no, most likely the compressor is working, but the freon is not circulating (leakage, blockage) or the fan is not working (in No Frost). First of all, defrost the refrigerator for 24 hours. If that doesn’t help, call a technician to look for a leak or check the compressor.
Can a refrigerator not cool well due to the heat in the room?
Yes, if the room temperature is above +30..+35°C, the refrigerator may not be able to cope with the heat flow, especially if it is old or stands close to the wall. The compressor will work for wear, but will not reach the required temperature. It is necessary to provide a gap at the back wall and ventilate the room.
How often do you need to change the sealing rubber?
The service life of the seal is on average 5-7 years. However, with careful care and regular cleaning, it can last up to 10 years. Change the rubber if it is cracked, has lost elasticity or no longer holds a magnetic clamp.
Why is the back wall of the refrigerator warm, but the inside is not cold?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or a clogged capillary system. The freon has either left or is not circulating through the circuit, so heat is not removed. Professional repairs are required, including searching for leaks or purging the system.