Why does the refrigerator click when turned on: diagnostics and solution

The situation when the refrigerator is clickingbut full cooling does not begin is a classic sign of a faulty starting system. This sound is often described as a single or a series of repeated clicks, after which the engine either has difficulty starting or stops completely. For the owner of the equipment, this is a signal that the compressor is trying to start, but encounters electrical or mechanical resistance.

Such symptoms cannot be ignored, since constant attempts to start can lead to overheating of the motor windings. In the best case, the thermal protection will work and the unit will go into a long rest. In the worst case, an insulation breakdown or jamming of the piston group will occur. Understanding the physics of the process will help you quickly determine the severity of the breakdown and decide whether to call a technician or repair it yourself.

It is important to note that the nature of the sound may vary depending on the model of equipment. Old Soviet ZIL or Biryusa make louder, metallic sounds when mechanical relays operate. Modern inverter models Samsung or LG can produce quiet electronic clicks, which do not always indicate a breakdown. Let's look at the main components responsible for these sounds.

The principle of operation of the starting relay and compressor

The central element that produces the characteristic sound is starting relay. This is an electromechanical switch whose task is to supply a high starting current to the motor winding at the moment of start and turn it off when the motor reaches operating speed. It is the opening of the contacts inside this small device that creates that audible click. If the refrigerator clicks and turns off, it means that the circuit is broken by the protection ahead of time.

Inside the compressor there is an electric motor that must spin the piston group. A starting winding is used to create the initial torque. Once the rotor reaches a certain speed (approximately 75% of rated speed), centrifugal force or an electromagnetic field opens the starting circuit. If this does not happen, the current in the winding increases sharply, which causes heating and activation of the thermal relay.

Technical information on the relay

Old models use relays with a posistor (thermistor), which heats up and opens the circuit. Modern devices use electromagnetic relays, where current passes through a coil, creating a magnetic field to open contacts. The service life of such parts is limited by the number of switching cycles.

There are several types of protection built into the system. The thermal relay responds to the temperature of the compressor housing or the current in the circuit. If you hear a click, then a hum, and then a click again with the hum fading, this is a cycle of protection. It saves the motor from burning out by opening the power circuit until the temperature of the bimetallic strip drops to a safe level.

The main causes of clicking sounds at startup

If the refrigerator clicks and does not turn on, the problem most often lies in one of three components: the start relay, the start capacitor or the compressor itself. The cause may also be an interturn short circuit in the motor windings, which leads to a sharp jump in current and instantaneous operation of the protection. Diagnostics begins with an analysis of the frequency and nature of sounds.

One ​​of the common reasons is failure starting capacitor. This element accumulates the charge necessary to create a phase shift when the engine starts. If the capacitor's capacity has dropped or it has swollen, the motor does not receive enough impulse to start. As a result, the relay clicks, trying to start the engine, but is unsuccessful.

⚠️ Attention: If after the click you smell a burning smell or see sparking in the compressor area, immediately unplug the device. Operating a refrigerator with faulty electrics can lead to a fire.

Mechanical wear also plays a role. Moving parts of the compressor can seize due to oil production or metal shavings. In this case, the motor hums, but cannot turn the shaft. The relay clicks, trying to start the unit, but the protection turns off the power again. This is the most severe case, requiring replacement of the compressor.

Diagnostics of the starting relay with your own hands

Checking start relay is the first step that you can do yourself without complex equipment. To do this, you will need to remove the back cover of the refrigerator (crankcase) at the bottom of the case. Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! Inside you will see a compressor, to which a small plastic or metal barrel is attached to the side or top - this is our relay.

Carefully remove the relay from the contacts of the compressor. Usually it is fixed with a bracket or simply pressed tightly onto the terminals. Visually inspect the housing: there should be no cracks, traces of burning or melting. If the plastic has turned black, the part definitely needs to be replaced. There may be contacts inside that are oxidized or burnt.

For more accurate diagnostics, you can use a multimeter in dial mode. Check the integrity of the contacts and coil. If the relay has a posistor, its resistance should increase when heated (you can gently warm it with a hairdryer, but not with an open fire). When cold, the resistance should be low.

If the relay is electromagnetic, you will hear the armature ringing inside when shaken. This is fine. However, if the anchor dangles too freely or, on the contrary, is jammed, the mechanism will not work correctly. Replacing the relay is an inexpensive process and often solves the problem of clicking.

Problems with the starting capacitor

Many modern models of refrigerators, especially dual-compressor or powerful ones, use start capacitor. This is a cylindrical element, often black or silver, located next to the relay. Its task is to provide a phase shift to create torque. If the refrigerator clicks but does not start, the capacitor may be the culprit.

Visually diagnosing the capacitor can often reveal the problem. Bloating of the housing, leakage of electrolyte, or deformation of the ends are clear signs of a malfunction. Even if outwardly it looks intact, its capacity may have dropped below the critical level required to start the engine under load.

Replacing a capacitor requires observing the polarity (if it is electrolytic) and selecting an analogue with identical characteristics. The parameters are indicated on the case in microfarads (µF) and volts (V). Installing an element with a lower voltage can lead to its explosion, and with a lower capacity - it is impossible to start the motor.

Before touching the leads, it is advisable to discharge them by closing the contacts through a resistor or a screwdriver with an insulated handle (being careful). This will protect you from an unpleasant electric shock.

Mechanical malfunctions of the compressor

The most unpleasant scenario is when the refrigerator clicks due to internal failure of the motor-compressor. This is the “heart” of the system, and repairing it at home is almost impossible. Mechanical wear of the piston group, scuffing of the cylinders or lack of compression lead to the fact that the engine cannot crank the shaft.

When you try to start in this state, the maximum current is consumed, which causes an instantaneous operation of the thermal relay. You hear a click, then a heavy buzzing sound, and then another click. The compressor may become very hot. If you touch the motor housing (be careful, it may be hot), it will be noticeably warmer than usual.

Sometimes the cause is a break in the internal wiring or an interturn short circuit. In this case, the engine may not even hum, but immediately knock out the machine in the dashboard or make a sharp click and go silent. Diagnostics of the windings with a multimeter may show a resistance close to zero or, conversely, an open circuit.

Replacing a compressor is a complex technological process. It requires:

• 🛠️ Unsoldering the old motor from the copper tubes.
• ❄️ Refilling the system with new refrigerant (freon).
• 🔌 Installing a new filter-drier.
• 🔥 Soldering connections in a nitrogen environment or using special fluxes.

It is impossible to perform these operations independently without a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station and a burner. Moreover, the release of freon into the atmosphere is prohibited by environmental regulations. Therefore, when confirming the diagnosis of a “dead compressor,” a call to a specialized service is required.

The influence of voltage in the network and wiring

Unstable voltage in the electrical network is a common reason why the refrigerator clicks it does not start. If the voltage drops below 190-200 Volts, the engine power may not be enough to overcome the inertia of the piston group. The relay tries to start the motor, the current increases, but the voltage is not enough to accelerate, and the protection turns off the unit.

Bad contact in the socket or plug can also simulate a malfunction of the equipment. Oxidized contacts create a high contact resistance, which leads to a voltage drop at the input to the refrigerator. When you try to start, the voltage drops even more, causing a series of relay clicks.

⚠️ Attention: Using cheap Chinese extension cords to connect the refrigerator is unacceptable. Thin wires and poor contacts in such devices often cause fire hazards during inrush currents.

To protect expensive equipment in unstable network conditions, it is recommended to use a voltage stabilizer or voltage control relay. These devices will cut off the power if the network parameters go outside of acceptable limits, preventing repeated unsuccessful attempts to start the compressor.

Specifics of inverter compressors

In modern models with technology No Frost linear or inverter compressors (for example LG Linear Cooling, Samsung Digital Inverter) the launch system is designed differently. There is no classic starting relay and capacitor in the usual form. Startup and speed control are carried out by an electronic control unit (inverter).

Clicks in such refrigerators can be associated with the operation of electronic keys inside the inverter or the operation of mechanical dampers. However, if the inverter refrigerator makes loud clicks and does not start, most often the problem lies in the inverter module itself or the motor windings.

Diagnostics of inverter systems requires a special tester that sends signals to start the compressor. Without it, it is difficult to determine whether the motor or the control board is at fault. The error is often displayed on the refrigerator display in the form of an alphanumeric code, which can be deciphered in the instructions.

Repair of inverter compressors is often unprofitable due to the high cost of spare parts and the complexity of the work. In most cases, if the electronic module or the motor itself fails, the assembly is replaced.

Why are inverters quieter?

Inverter compressors do not turn off completely, but only reduce speed. Therefore, they should not have characteristic clicks during each on/off cycle (as in older models). The appearance of clicks is an alarming sign.

When you need to call a technician

To summarize, we can identify situations where independent repair is useless or dangerous. If after replacing the relay and capacitor the refrigerator clicks it does not freeze, the problem is deeper. You also need a technician if you need to open the refrigeration circuit (filling with freon, replacing the compressor, removing blockages).

You should not try to repair equipment if you do not have experience working with high voltage and refrigerants. Unprofessional repairs can lead to the final failure of the equipment, which will entail costs exceeding the cost of a new refrigerator.

Call a specialist if:

• 🔥 There is a smell of burnt insulation or plastic.
• 💡 The device knocks out circuit breakers (plugs) in apartment.
• 🧊 The refrigerator has stopped freezing, although the compressor is working.
• 💧 Oily spots have appeared around the compressor or inside the chamber.

Timely contacting professionals will help preserve food and extend the life of the appliance. Remember that regular maintenance, cleaning the condenser from dust and checking the seals also reduce the load on the starting system, preventing premature breakdowns.

Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it clicks but freezes?

Short-term operation is possible, but undesirable. Clicking sounds indicate a hard start, which wears out the compressor. If the clicks become more frequent, it is better not to risk it and carry out diagnostics before the motor burns out.

How much does it cost to replace the starting relay?

The relay itself is inexpensive (usually from 500 to 1500 rubles depending on the model). However, the cost of a technician for on-site diagnostics and replacement can range from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles.

Why does the refrigerator click immediately after defrosting?

If you have just defrosted the refrigerator and turned it on, the clicks can be caused by the fact that there is a lot of heat left in the system, and the thermostat immediately gives the command to cool. Also, moisture could get on the contacts. Allow the appliance to dry and cool.

Does the position of the refrigerator affect the clicks?

Yes. If the refrigerator is not level, the oil in the compressor may flow into the circuit or not return to the crankcase, which makes starting difficult. Vibration can also cause pipes to rattle, which can be mistaken for relay clicks.