The situation when freezer compartment continues to work properly, but in the main compartment the temperature is higher than normal or there is no cold at all, is one of the most common problems of modern refrigerators. Users often notice that food in the upper compartment begins to deteriorate, and there is no usual condensation on the walls, while in the freezer everything freezes “to stone.” This phenomenon indicates a violation of the circulation of the refrigerant or a malfunction in the cold air distribution system.
You should not panic and immediately call a specialist, since in some cases the reason lies in a banal overload or improper placement of products. However, ignoring the symptoms can lead to more serious damage, such as compressor failure or complete leakage freon. It is important to understand that two-chamber models, be it Indesit, Atlant or Beko, have a similar logic of operation, and failures in them are often typical.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of the malfunction, consider the role of dampers and thermostat, and we will also explain why the system No Frost may stop supplying air to the refrigerator compartment. You will learn to carry out initial diagnostics and understand when you can fix the problem yourself, and when professional intervention is required.
The principle of operation of two-chamber systems and air circulation
To understand why the cold has disappeared in the main chamber, you need to understand the basic structure of the refrigeration unit. Most modern models use single-circuit system cooling, where one compressor circulates the refrigerant through both compartments. Cold is generated in the evaporator, which is most often hidden behind the back wall of the freezer, and then distributed throughout the entire volume.
In refrigerators with a system No Frost a special fan is responsible for moving cold air. It forces cooled masses through air ducts into the refrigeration chamber. If this process is disrupted, the freezer continues to freeze (since the evaporator is located there), and the upper compartment becomes warm. In drip systems (“crying” evaporator), the cold is transferred through the wall, and the disruption of heat exchange here can be caused by other factors.
The key distribution element is damper (or damper). This is an adjustable valve that opens based on a signal from the thermostat when the refrigerator compartment becomes too warm. If the damper is stuck in the closed position or its drive is burned out, cold air simply does not enter the main compartment, remaining in the freezer.
⚠️ Attention: Trying to forcefully open the damper by hand without turning off the power can lead to breakage of the plastic drive gears. Carry out all manipulations with mechanical parts only after removing the plug from the socket.
It is also worth considering that in some models, for example, in old Stinol or Atlant, the circuits can be physically separated, but controlled by one motor. In such cases, the problem often lies in a gas leak in the refrigeration chamber circuit, while the freezer circuit remains sealed.
The main reasons for the lack of cold in the upper chamber
There are several key factors that lead to the described problem. Diagnosis should begin with the simplest and most likely causes before moving on to complex repairs. Most often, the culprits are malfunctions in the defrost system or mechanical blockages.
The first and most common cause is malfunction of the defrost system. If the evaporator heating element is burnt out or the defrost timer is jammed, a huge “coat” of ice grows on the evaporator. This ice completely blocks the air ducts, and the fan simply circulates the air inside the freezer, not letting it go up. Visually this may not be noticeable, since the evaporator is hidden by plastic.
The second common problem is refrigerant leak. If there is little freon left in the system, it is only enough to cool the first section of the circuit (freezer), but the pressure and amount of gas is no longer enough for the second section (refrigerator compartment). In such cases, the compressor can work almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature.
- ❄️ Clogged capillary tube: A technical blockage or ice blockage prevents the normal circulation of freon, causing a similar effect of lack of cold in the second circuit.
- 🔧 Thermostat malfunction: If the temperature sensor is “lying” and believes that the chamber is already cold enough, it does not give a command to open the damper or turn on the compressor.
- 🌬️ Fan failure: In systems No Frost stopping the fan means stopping air circulation, even if the evaporator icy.
It is also worth paying attention to the tightness of the fit sealing rubber. If warm air from the outside constantly enters the refrigerator compartment, the system may not be able to cope with its cooling, creating the illusion of a breakdown, although in fact it is working at its maximum capacity.
No Frost system diagnostics and fan check
For owners of refrigerators with automatic defrosting, check the fan is one of the first diagnostic steps. This unit is responsible for forced air circulation. If it does not work, cold air remains in the evaporator area, and the freezer works efficiently, but the refrigerator does not.
To check the fan, it is not necessary to disassemble the entire unit. In many models, it is enough to remove the back panel in the freezer compartment (after defrosting the refrigerator for 10-12 hours if there is a suspicion of ice). When you open the freezer door, a switch should be activated to stop the fan. If the fan does not make noise or blow when the door is closed (or when the door sensor tongue is pressed), it may be faulty.
☑️ Checking the fan
Often the reason for the stop is an unburned motor, and banal ice that blocked the blades. This occurs when there is a malfunction in the defrost system. In this case, after complete defrosting, the fan may start working again. However, if the motor burns out, it will need to be replaced with one of a similar size and voltage.
It is also important to check air ducts. Sometimes small objects (candy wrappers, pieces of packaging) can get there and block the air flow. In models Samsung and LG there are design features where the air duct becomes clogged with ice chips when doors are frequently opened in conditions of high humidity.
Faults of the damper and thermostat
The damper (damper) is the “doorman” who decides whether to let cold into the refrigerator compartment. It is controlled by an electronic module based on the readings of temperature sensors. If the damper is stuck in the closed position, the cold simply does not enter the upper compartment. This is a common problem for brands Bosch, Siemens i Electrolux.
The damper mechanism can fail for several reasons: the plastic drive gears have broken off, the gear motor has burned out, or condensation has simply accumulated and frozen, blocking the flap. In some cases, careful defrosting helps, but often the entire unit needs to be replaced.
The temperature regulator (thermostat) also plays a critical role. In mechanical models this is a capillary tube, in electronic models it is a sensor. If the thermostat is stuck in the off position or reading the wrong temperature, the compressor will not turn on often enough to keep the top compartment cold, although the freezer will maintain cold inertia longer.
| Symptom | Probable Cause | Check method | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| The compressor is silent, there is no light | No power or the thermostat is burnt out | Ring the thermostat contacts | Low |
| The compressor is humming, there is no cold anywhere | Freon leak or compressor breakdown | Check the condenser heating | High |
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm | The damper or fan is faulty | Listen to the fan operation | Average |
| Ice in the freezer, warm at the top | Air duct clogged with ice | Full defrost 24 hours | Low |
To replace the thermostat in mechanical refrigerators (for example Atlant), it is often enough to remove the plastic cover and replace the sensor without causing masters The main thing is to choose the right model, since the temperature ranges of different thermostats are different.
Problems with the refrigerant and compressor
If the mechanical parts are working properly, the fan spins, the damper opens, but there is still no cold in the main chamber, the problem may be in the “heart” of the refrigerator — gas circulation system. A freon leak is an insidious malfunction that develops gradually.
First, the refrigerator starts working longer, then the compressor stops turning off. At a certain stage, the gas becomes so small that it is only enough for the evaporator of the freezer. In the refrigerator compartment at this time the temperature can be kept at +10...+15°C. A characteristic sign is a hot condenser (grid at the back) only in the initial part or, conversely, cold along the entire length.
⚠️ Attention: Self-filling the refrigerator with freon is impossible without special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station, scales). In addition, a leak search is required, otherwise the gas will escape again in a few days or weeks.
Another problem is Clogged capillary tube. A plug may form in the circulation system from oil or moisture oxidation products. This blocks the freon flow. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor is running, the condenser is hot only near the motor, and then cold. The system requires purging with nitrogen and replacing the filter-drier.
Self-defrosting as a diagnostic method
Before buying spare parts or calling a technician, it is strongly recommended to carry out a complete defrosting procedure. This is the easiest and free way to eliminate problems with ice in the system No Frost. About 30% of cases of “breakdowns” are solved by this method.
The essence of the method is to disconnect the refrigerator from the network for a long time (at least 24 hours, preferably 36). During this time, any ice that may have blocked the air ducts or fan will completely melt and flow out. It is important not to turn on the refrigerator immediately after the ice has melted - let it stand turned off for another couple of hours so that the moisture evaporates.
After being plugged in, the refrigerator can take a long time to gain temperature, up to 5-7 hours. During this time, do not open doors frequently. If, after such a procedure, cold appears in the upper chamber and lasts for several days, and then disappears again, it means that there is a problem in the defrost system (the heating element, timer or defrost sensor has burned out), and the ice builds up again, blocking the channels.
- 🕰️ Defrost time: Minimum 24 hours for a guaranteed result.
- 🔌 Disconnection: Be sure to unplug the cord from the socket.
- 🚿 Removing water: Make sure that water from the evaporator tray flows freely into the drainage container.
If after defrosting The refrigerator worked fine, but a week later the situation repeated itself, you will need to diagnose the elements of the defrost system. In models Indesit i Ariston the defrost heating element often burns out, which is easily replaced.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why, after defrosting, did the refrigerator stop freezing again after a week?
This indicates a malfunction in the automatic defrost system. Most likely, the heating element (heating element) of the evaporator has burned out or the defrost sensor has failed. Ice accumulates again and blocks the air supply channels. The faulty part needs to be replaced.
Can a lack of food in the refrigerator cause a lack of cold?
Yes, to some extent. An empty refrigerator maintains its temperature worse, since food acts as a heat accumulator. However, if the chamber is very warm (+15°C and above), then the problem is not in the quantity of products, but in a technical malfunction.
A click is heard, but the compressor does not start - what is it?
The click is an attempt by the start relay to turn on the compressor. If this is followed by silence or a repeated click, the start relay may be burned out, the compressor is seized, or there is an electrical problem. Motor diagnostics are required.
Does the temperature in the room affect the operation of the refrigerator?
Yes, if the room is too hot (above +30°C), the refrigerator may not be able to cope with the heat flow, especially if it is old or the condenser is dirty. Also, you should not place the refrigerator next to the radiator or stove.
What to do if there is water in the refrigerator, but there is no cold?
Water can be a product of melting ice due to a faulty defrosting system or the result of food thawing due to lack of cold. Check to see if the drainage hole in the back wall of the refrigerator compartment is clogged.