The situation when Atlant refrigerator continues to freeze in the freezer compartment, but stops cooling food in the upper compartment, is one of the most common problems. Users often encounter the fact that the temperature in the main chamber rises to room temperature, food begins to deteriorate, and the characteristic layer of frost is missing on the back wall or, conversely, a “snow coat” forms. This behavior of the equipment indicates a violation of the circulation of the refrigerant or a malfunction in the control system.
In most cases, the cause is not a breakdown of the compressor itself, which continues to hum, but a violation of heat exchange. Atlant models, especially series with one compressor, are designed so that the cold is generated in the evaporator hidden behind the rear panel and distributed among the chambers. If this process is disrupted, the cold simply does not reach the food. It is important not to panic and consistently check the main components of the unit in order to eliminate simple malfunctions before calling a technician.
Understanding the operating principle of your model will help you quickly diagnose the problem. In modern systems No Frost and static cooling, the reasons can be radically different: from a simple blockage of the capillary tube to failure of the electronics. Below we will analyze in detail each of the possible reasons, so that you can understand the scale of the disaster and decide whether to repair it yourself or call for service.
Refrigerant leak: the most common reason for the lack of cold
The most likely reason that fridge compartment stopped freezing is a banal freon leak. Unlike old Soviet units, modern models Atlant use thin evaporator tubes, which can be damaged by corrosion or mechanical stress. When the amount of refrigerant in the system drops below a critical level, the compressor continues to work, trying to create pressure, but there is not enough cold even for one chamber.
It is almost impossible to diagnose a leak visually, since freon is colorless and odorless. However, there are indirect signs: the compressor runs non-stop or with very short pauses, and the condenser (grid at the back) remains barely warm or cold. If you touch the back wall inside the refrigerator, it will be dry and warm, although it should be covered with frost or cold.
⚠️ Attempts to refuel the refrigerator yourself without finding and fixing the leak will only lead to a temporary effect. After a few days or weeks, the gas will come out again, and the compressor may burn out due to wear and tear.
The process of restoring tightness requires special equipment. The technician must find the leak, seal it, and only then evacuate the system and refill with new freon. It is impossible to carry out these operations independently without a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge station.
Often leaks occur in the foamed part of the housing where the evaporator tubes are located. This is the most difficult case, requiring either the installation of an external evaporator (weeping wall) or complex opening of the housing. Owners should be prepared for the fact that repairs can be expensive.
Malfunction of the thermostat or temperature sensor
If your Atlant refrigerator refrigerator compartment does not work, but the freezer functions normally, the problem may lie in the “brain” of the system - the thermostat (thermostat) or electronic sensor. It is this element that tells the compressor when to turn on and when to stop. If the sensor “lies” and shows that it is already cold in the chamber, the compressor simply will not start and the temperature will begin to rise.
In mechanical models, the thermostat is a device with a capillary tube that senses temperature. Over time, the tube could become dislodged, no longer fit tightly to the evaporator, or lose its seal. In electronic models Atlant air sensors are responsible for control, which can fail due to voltage surges or oxidation of contacts.
- 🔍 Symptom: The compressor is silent, the refrigerator is warm, the light is on.
- ❄️ Symptom: The refrigerator turns off too early, without having time to reach the desired temperature.
- 🔊 Symptom: The unit works without interruption, but there is no cold (if the sensor is “stuck” in the “on” position, but does not regulate the cycle).
You can check the mechanical thermostat by closing its contacts directly (for diagnostics). If after this procedure the refrigerator “came to life” and began to freeze, it means that the regulator is faulty and requires replacement. Electronic sensors are checked with a multimeter for changes in resistance when the temperature changes.
How to check a thermostat with a multimeter
To check, you need to remove the regulator, set the multimeter to dial mode and connect the probes to the contacts. At room temperature the circuit should ring (if it is a normally closed contact). If you place the sensitive element in cold water with ice, the circuit should open (a click will be heard and the signal will disappear).
Clogged capillary tube and compressor operation
Another technical reason why refrigerator compartment stops cooling is clogged capillary tube. This is a narrow channel through which the refrigerant enters the evaporator. Over time, microscopic contaminants, paraffin plugs or ice crystals (if moisture enters) can form in the system, which block the flow of freon.
Signs of a blockage are often confused with a leak, but there is an important difference. If clogged, the compressor runs very loudly, gets very hot, and the condenser grille at the back can be hot only in the first half or, conversely, cold in the second. The pressure at the outlet of the compressor increases, and at the inlet it decreases, which leads to a characteristic gurgling or whistling sound.
In some cases, defrosting the refrigerator during the day with the doors open helps. If the cause was moisture (ice jam), it may melt and the system will work. However, this is a temporary measure. A complete repair requires purging the system with nitrogen under high pressure and replacing the filter-drier.
It is impossible to clean the capillary tube yourself without a high-pressure compressor and skills in working with the refrigeration circuit. Attempts to blow it out with your mouth or a can of air will not give results and can drive dirt deeper into the system.
Problems with the defrost system (for No Frost models)
Owners of refrigerators Atlant with a system No Frost often face a situation when The freezer freezes perfectly, and the refrigerator compartment is hot. This is a classic sign of a faulty defrost system. In such units, cold is produced in the freezer and driven by a fan into the upper chamber through air ducts. If the evaporator in the freezer becomes overgrown with ice, the channels are blocked, and cold air simply cannot get to the top.
Three main elements are responsible for the defrosting process: a heating element (heater), a defrost sensor and a timer (or electronic control module). If any of them fails, the ice does not melt, builds up and blocks the fan from working. This can be seen visually if you remove the back panel in the freezer: the evaporator will be covered with a thick layer of ice or snow.
The defrost heating element or sensor that does not give the command to turn on the heating most often breaks down. Less often, the fan itself fails and stops moving air. It is easy to check the fan - when the freezer door is open (and the door sensor is pressed), it should make noise.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Repair will require disassembling the freezer, testing the circuit elements and replacing the faulty part. It is important to use original spare parts or high-quality analogues, since incorrect defrosting operation can lead to defrosting of food and damage to the compressor.
Failure of the magnetic valve (in two-chamber models)
In some models Atlant refrigerators with one compressor and two chambers, a special solenoid valve is used. Its task is to shut off the supply of freon to one of the chambers when it reaches the desired temperature. If this valve sticks in the closed position, freon circulates only through the evaporator of the freezer compartment, and does not enter the refrigerator compartment at all.
You can diagnose a valve malfunction by a characteristic click, which should occur when switching operating modes. If there is no click, and the thermostat is working properly, there is a high probability of a problem with the valve or the voltage supply to it from the control module. In some cases, you can try to “stir” the valve by lightly tapping, but this is only a temporary solution.
Replacing the valve requires bleeding the freon, soldering a new element and refilling the system. This is a job for a qualified craftsman, as an accurate dosage of refrigerant and adherence to soldering technology are required.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the top warm | Freon leak / Clogged | High (requires a technician) |
| Compressor does not turn on | Thermoregulator / Start relay | Medium (can yourself) |
| Ice in the freezer, no cold from above | Defrost system (No Frost) | Medium (you need a multimeter) |
| The refrigerator hums, but does not freeze | Compressor (hydrocline) | High (compressor replacement) |
Rare causes and human factor
Sometimes the problem lies not in a breakdown, but in improper operation. If you tightly packed the shelves with products, blocking the holes for air circulation, the cold simply will not be able to spread across refrigerator compartment. This is especially true for models with a system Low Frost or static cooling, where natural air flow is important.
It is also worth checking the tightness of the sealing rubber on the door. If it is dirty, deformed or torn, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat by working non-stop, but cannot cope with the volume, and as a result, the temperature inside rises. Check to see if anything is preventing the door from closing tightly (for example, the edge of a shelf or a bag).
Another rare but possible reason is a failure in the electronic control module. In modern models Atlant with a display and many functions, the “brains” can malfunction, issuing incorrect commands to the compressor and valves. In this case, a complete reset (reboot) often helps by disconnecting from the network for 15-20 minutes.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the compressor is knocking loudly or making a metallic clanging sound when trying to start, immediately unplug the refrigerator. Further attempts to turn on may permanently damage the motor.
Do not forget about trivial things: check that the temperature settings are not set to minimum, that the socket is working properly and that the power cord is not pinched. Sometimes the solution to the problem turns out to be simpler than it seems at first glance.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Is it possible to temporarily use the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not work?
You can use it as a regular storage (cabinet), but leaving it plugged in during a malfunction (especially if there is a leak or blockage) is dangerous. The compressor will work hard, trying to achieve non-existent cold, which will lead to overheating and burning of the windings. It is better to turn off the device before the technician arrives.
How much does the repair cost if the cold in the Atlant refrigerator is lost?
The cost depends on the breakdown. Replacing a thermostat or heating element will cost less, since it does not require working with freon. If leak detection, soldering and refilling are required, the price will be significantly higher due to the cost of materials and the complexity of the work. The technician will tell you the exact amount after diagnostics.
Why did the refrigerator work after defrosting, but after a week it stopped again?
This is a sure sign of the presence of moisture in the system (the capillary is clogged with an ice plug) or an incipient leak. Defrosting temporarily removes the ice, but the cause (moisture or hole) remains. A professional cleaning of the system with nitrogen and replacement of the filter-drier is required.
Is it possible to replace the compressor yourself if it burns out?
Theoretically, it is possible if you have the skills to solder copper pipes and work with electricity. However, this requires a vacuum pump, pressure gauges and scales for refilling freon. Without special equipment, it is impossible to properly solder the system and charge it, so replacing the compressor yourself is not recommended.