The situation when the upper compartment of the refrigerator Atlant continues to cool food, but the freezer has stopped performing its functions, is one of the most common and alarming for owners of household appliances. The ice in the freezer melts, the meat becomes soft, and frost may appear on the back wall or, conversely, complete dryness. This indicates a disruption in the circulation of the refrigerant or a malfunction in the temperature control system.
There is no need to panic in this case, since most causes can be diagnosed visually or using simple manipulations. However, the problem cannot be ignored: long-term storage of products at above-zero temperatures will lead to their spoilage, and operation of the compressor in emergency mode can permanently damage the expensive unit. In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical faults characteristic of two-chamber models of the Belarusian brand.
The first thing to do when a fault is detected is to assess the scale of the problem. If the chamber is simply not cold enough, but ice is still present, it may be due to improper operation or depressurization. If it is completely warm and the defrost indicator is on, we are talking about a serious technical breakdown that requires specialist intervention or in-depth diagnostics.
Problems with tightness and door seal
One of the most commonplace, but common causes of loss of cold is a loose fit of the freezer door. Rubber seal over time loses elasticity, cracks, or simply becomes contaminated with fatty deposits, which causes warm air to enter inside. As a result, the compressor works non-stop, trying to compensate for heat inflows, but does not have time to freeze the food.
You can check the tightness using a simple test with a sheet of paper. Press the door around the perimeter of the sheet and try to pull it out. If the paper pulls out too easily or with minimal resistance, there is a gap in that area. Also carefully inspect the rubber for cracks, dents, or separation from the body.
- 🧼 Wash the seal thoroughly with warm soapy water to remove grease and dirt that prevent a tight fit.
- 💨 Use a hair dryer (on the lowest temperature) to warm up the deformed areas of the rubber and try to restore them shape.
- 🔧 Check the door hinges: if they are skewed, the door may not press tightly even against the new seal.
⚠️ Attention: If the seal is severely damaged or “stiffened” over time, no folk methods will help. The only solution is to completely replace the part with an original one or a high-quality analogue.
It is important to understand that even a microscopic gap leads to constant freezing of the evaporator and the formation of an ice coat that blocks heat removal. In models with the system No Frost this causes fan malfunctions. Regularly checking the condition of the rubber is an easy way to extend the life of the compressor.
Faults in the defrost system (No Frost)
In refrigerators Atlantequipped with a system No Frost, the lack of cold in the freezer is often associated with problems with evaporator defrosting. If the heating element, defrost thermostat or timer (or electronic control module) fails, a layer of ice builds up on the evaporator. This ice blocks the channels through which cold air should enter the chamber.
Externally it may look like this: the fan is humming, but the air is not blowing, or it is blowing barely noticeably. The compressor can operate cyclically or practically without stopping. Visually, you can notice that the back wall of the freezer is covered with a thick layer of frost, while the food remains warm.
How does the defrost system work?
In cooling mode, condensation forms on the evaporator, which freezes. Periodically (usually every 8-12 hours) the defrosting heating element is turned on, which melts the ice. The water flows into the drain pan. If any element of this chain breaks, the ice does not melt and blocks the airflow.
Diagnosis of this problem requires partial disassembly of the freezer to access the evaporator. It is necessary to check the resistance of the heating element and the integrity of the defrost thermostat with a multimeter. If the heating element is intact, but does not heat, the problem may be in the control circuit or timer.
| System element | Fault symptom | Check method |
|---|---|---|
| Defrosting heating element | Ice build-up on the evaporator | Test resistance (should be from 200 to 600 Ohms) |
| Defrost thermostat | The heating element does not turn on or heats constantly | Checking the contact closure at different temperature |
| Fan | Noise, lack of cold, ice on the blades | Visual inspection and manual rotation check |
| Defrost sensor | Failure of defrost cycles | Measuring resistance when temperature changes |
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Refrigerant leak and problems with the compressor
If after completely defrosting the refrigerator (within 24 hours with open doors) the freezer has not started to gain temperature, and the compressor is either silent or constantly running without cooling, there is a high probability freon leaks. The refrigerant can escape through microcracks in the sealed tubes, often at soldering points or in the foamed part of the housing (where the evaporator is located).
When freon leaks, the pressure in the system drops, and the compressor, even working properly, cannot create the necessary temperature difference. In older models Atlant with one compressor, this leads to the fact that the cold does not reach the freezer, although the refrigerator compartment may be slightly cooler than in the room.
Another serious problem is the failure of the compressor itself. This may be an interturn short circuit of the windings, jamming of the piston group, or a malfunction of the starting relay. If you hear a click when you turn it on, a hum lasts a couple of seconds, and then there is silence and a second click - most likely, the thermal protection relay is triggered, since the motor cannot start.
⚠️ Attention: Self-filling the refrigerator with freon is impossible without special equipment and skills. If a leak or compressor breakdown is detected, you need to call a technician with a vacuum pump and a charging station.
Failures in the operation of the temperature sensor and thermostat
In modern models Atlant with electronic control, the temperature is controlled sensors, transmitting signals to the control module. If the sensor in the freezer “lies” and shows that it is already -20°C, although in fact it is 0°C, the compressor simply will not turn on for cooling. In mechanical models, this role is played by the thermostat.
A faulty sensor may have a faulty calibration or an open circuit. In electronic refrigerators, this is often accompanied by blinking lights on the control panel or displaying an error code (for example, F5, F6, etc., depending on the model). In mechanical units, a breakdown of the thermostat leads either to eternal operation of the compressor or to its complete silence.
To check the sensor, you need to know its nominal resistance at a certain temperature. This data can be found in the technical documentation. If the sensor resistance is very different from the norm or equal to infinity, the part must be replaced. It is important to use original spare parts or proven analogues, since incorrect readings can disrupt the operation algorithm of the entire refrigerator.
- 🔍 Inspect the wires going to the sensor: they are often chafed or chewed by rodents behind the back wall.
- ❄️ Check whether the sensor itself is covered with a thick layer of ice, which distorts temperature readings.
- ⚙️ Try resetting the errors in the electronic control unit by unplugging the refrigerator from the mains for 15-20 minutes.
Clogged capillary tube or filter drier
Another technical reason why the freezer does not freeze is clogging in the refrigerant circulation system. Most often, the capillary tube or filter drier becomes clogged. This can happen due to moisture getting into the system, the formation of a paraffin plug, or the presence of debris from poor-quality previous repairs.
Signs of a clog are similar to a freon leak: the compressor is running, the condenser (grid at the back) is only partially or unevenly heated, and the freezer is warm. Sometimes during operation you can hear gurgling sounds that are not typical for the normal operation of the refrigerator.
Fixing this malfunction is a complex process that requires a professional tool. The technician needs to:
- Cut off the old filter drier.
- Purge the system with nitrogen under high pressure to remove the plug.
- Install a new filter and evacuate the system.
- Fill the refrigerator with the exact amount of freon indicated on the nameplate.
⚠️ Attention: Attempts to clean the capillary tube yourself using a compressor or chemicals can lead to rupture of the tubes inside the foamed housing, which will make repairs economically unfeasible.
The influence of fast freezing and overload mode
Sometimes the reason for the lack of cold lies not in a breakdown, but in improper operation. If you turned on the Super Freeze (quick freezing) mode and forgot to turn it off, the compressor will work hard, but due to overheating the thermal protection may work and it will temporarily turn off. Also, frequent opening of doors or loading a large amount of warm food upsets the temperature balance.
In models with one compressor and one cooling circuit (which is typical for many Atlant), there is a dependence: if it is too cold in the refrigerator compartment, cold may stop flowing into the freezer, and vice versa. Adjusting the damper or thermostat may solve the problem.
Check the temperature settings. For normal operation of the freezer, it is enough to set the temperature to -18°C. Lower values (-24°C and below) require increased power and may not be available at high ambient temperatures in the room or when the door is not tightly closed.
What is super-freezing?
This is a mode in which the compressor operates continuously, ignoring the thermostat readings, to quickly freeze fresh food. You cannot use it for more than 24-48 hours - this will lead to freezing and overheating of the equipment.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Why does the Atlant refrigerator work, but does not freeze after defrosting?
Most likely, a water lock has formed in the system or an ice blockage has formed in the system. capillary tube, which did not have time to melt. It is also possible that moisture entered the system during defrosting if you used a hair dryer or hot water. Professional blowing and replacement of the filter-drier are required.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber (freezer) does not freeze?
For a short time - yes, to preserve food from the refrigerator compartment. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which is running idle or in overload mode. In addition, the food in the freezer will quickly spoil.
How can you tell that the compressor has burned out and not a freon leak?
If the compressor hums for 5-10 seconds and clicks, but does not start, it is jammed or the problem is in the start relay. If it works constantly and quietly, and the grille at the back is cold, there is a freon leak or a blockage.
Why does ice freeze on only one side in the Atlant freezer?
This may indicate a local freon leak in the foamed part (inside the wall) or a violation of the refrigerant circulation. It is also possible that the cold air supply channel is clogged if we are talking about the No Frost system.