The situation when food continues to freeze properly, but in the main compartment the temperature rises to room temperature, is one of the most common complaints from owners of refrigeration equipment. Often users get scared, thinking that the unit is completely out of order, but this is not always the case. In most cases, the problem lies in a violation of the circulation of the refrigerant or malfunctions in the control system that affect only one of the cooling zones. freezer compartment continues to properly freeze food, and in the main compartment the temperature rises to room temperature, this is one of the most common complaints from owners of refrigeration equipment. Often users get scared, thinking that the unit is completely out of order, but this is not always the case. In most cases, the problem lies in refrigerant circulation problems or control system failures that affect only one of the refrigeration zones.
Before calling a technician, it is worth carrying out an initial diagnosis to understand the scale of the problem. Modern models with the No Frost system, old two-chamber units may also have various causes of malfunction. Understanding the principle of operation will help you save time and money, as well as prevent damage to a large number of products.
The principle of operation of two-chamber cooling systems
To understand why fridge compartment it stopped cooling, you need to understand how freon moves inside the system. In classical schemes, the refrigerant first passes through the freezer evaporator, where it boils and removes heat, and then enters the refrigeration circuit. If at any stage of this path an obstacle occurs, the cold stops flowing into the second compartment.
In units with one compressor and one evaporator (located in the freezer), air is forced by a fan into the fridge compartment through special channels. If these channels are clogged with ice or the flap that regulates the flow is stuck in the closed position, it becomes warm in the upper compartment, although everything below is frozen.
⚠️ Attempts to defrost the refrigerator using shock methods (hair dryer, hot water) can lead to cracking of the plastic evaporator box and complete freon leak. Use only natural defrosting for 24 hours.
It is important to consider that the implementation of cold supply may differ in different models. For example, in technology Indesit or Atlant there are often mechanical dampers that turn sour over time, while in LG or Samsung air flow control can be electronic.
Faults in the system No Frost
System No Frost ("without frost") eliminates the need to defrost the refrigerator manually, but it is also a source of specific breakdowns. The basic principle of operation is that the fan drives dry cold air from the evaporator through the chambers. If this process is disrupted, we see the picture: the freezer is working, but the refrigerator compartment is warm.
Most often the problem lies in the defrost system. The heater heating element, defrost thermostat or timer (or electronic module) may fail. As a result, a “coat” of ice builds up on the evaporator, which blocks the operation of the fan or blocks the air ducts. The fan either stops due to ice or simply cannot push air through the ice plug.
- ❄️ Malfunction of the defrosting heating element: the heating element burns out and does not melt the ice on the evaporator.
- 🌡️ Failure of the defrost sensor: the system “does not see” that you need to turn on the heating to remove ice.
- 💨 Fan jamming: the blades freeze to the housing or the motor bearing breaks.
Diagnostics of the No Frost system requires disassembling the rear wall of the freezer. Visually, you may notice that the back wall of the freezer is covered with a thick layer of ice or snow, although normally it should be clean. This is a sure sign that the defrost cycle is not running.
⚠️ Attention: If after complete defrosting (24 hours without plugging in) the refrigerator started working normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem recurred, this is a 100% malfunction of the defrost system. Replacement of burnt components is required.
Refrigerant leak and capillary tube blockage
If depressurization occurs in the freon circulation system, the pressure drops and there is not enough refrigerant for both circuits. In such a situation freezer compartment, where freon arrives first, is still able to maintain a low temperature, and the refrigerant simply does not reach the refrigerator compartment or does not have time to release the cold.
A similar situation arises when clogged capillary tube. Oil breakdown products or moisture entering the system turn into an ice plug inside a thin tube. This physically blocks the freon flow. In this case, the compressor can work almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but does not produce cold.
| Symptom | Freon leak | Clogged capillary tube |
|---|---|---|
| Compressor operation | Works constantly or with short pauses | Works constantly, can get very hot |
| Condenser temperature | Warm only at the beginning of the grate (at the compressor) | Hot, but after the blockage - cold |
| Symptoms | Gradual decrease in cold in both chambers | Abrupt cessation of cold in one of the chambers |
| Solution | Searching for leaks, soldering, refilling | Blowing the system, replacing the filter-drier |
It is impossible to fix a leak or break through a blockage on your own without special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station, burner). These works require the qualifications of a specialist and the availability of gases.
Is it possible to refill the refrigerator yourself?
Refilling it yourself with freon is extremely dangerous and ineffective without vacuuming the system. The remaining moisture in the tubes will turn into an ice plug after a few hours, and the refrigerator will stop freezing again. In addition, the wrong dosage of oil or type of freon can permanently damage the compressor.
Problems with the magnetic valve and dampers
In some models of refrigerators, especially two-compressor or complex single-compressor systems, the cold distribution is regulated magnetic valve or by a mechanical damper. If the valve sticks in the “freezer only” position, cold air cannot physically enter the upper chamber.
Mechanical dampers often fail due to wear of the plastic drive gears or oxidation of the contacts. The electronics send a signal to open, but the actuator does not respond. Visually it looks like this: the fan is humming, the compressor is running, but no air is flowing into the refrigerator compartment.
To check, you need to remove the air duct panel (usually located on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment or at the top of the freezer) and check the movement of the damper manually. If it moves slowly or does not respond to module commands, the unit needs to be replaced.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and electronic module
Thermostat (or temperature sensor in electronic models) - this is the “brain” that tells the compressor when to turn on and off. If the sensor that controls the temperature in the refrigerator compartment begins to lie and show that it is “still cold,” the compressor simply will not turn on or will turn off too early.
At the same time, the sensor in the freezer may show normal, and the system will consider that it is working properly. As a result, the freezer freezes (by inertia or due to the operation of another circuit), but the refrigerator is warm. Often the problem is solved by replacing the sensor, which is inexpensive.
In more complex cases, it is to blame electronic control module. Power surges in the network can “burn” relays or microcircuits responsible for switching valves. Diagnostics requires testing the circuits with a multimeter and checking the output signals.
- 🔌 Open circuit: the sensor wires could have rotted or been damaged by rodents.
- 🧊 Incorrect readings: the sensor is frozen at one temperature and does not respond to changes.
- ⚡ Board failure: the module does not supply voltage to the necessary components.
Influence of incorrect operation
Sometimes the equipment is working properly, but the user himself creates the conditions under which it cannot work effectively. For example, if you put a pot of hot soup in the refrigerator, the temperature sensor could “go crazy,” and an ice crust would form on the evaporator, blocking airflow.
The condition of sealing rubber on the refrigerator door is also critically important. If it does not fit tightly, warm, moist air constantly enters the chamber. The cooling system cannot cope with the excess heat influx, and the temperature rises, although the freezer (which opens less frequently and is more airtight) continues to keep the cold.
Another common mistake is incorrect installation. If the refrigerator is located close to the wall or in a niche without gaps for ventilation, the condenser (grid at the back) does not give off heat. The compressor overheats and goes into protection without having time to freeze the volumetric refrigeration chamber.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics and location of components may vary depending on the model and year of manufacture. Before disassembling, be sure to check the technical documentation or schematics for your specific modification.
☑️ Diagnostics before calling a technician
When professional repairs are needed
If simple methods such as defrosting and checking the tightness of the closure doors did not help, most likely, specialist intervention will be required. Especially when it comes to replacing a compressor or searching for microcracks in a sealed circuitwhere welding and working with gas under pressure is required.
The master will be able to determine exactly why The refrigerator does not freezeusing a professional tool. He will check the current of the motor windings, the pressure in the system and the integrity of electrical circuits. Self-repair of complex components often leads to higher costs for equipment restoration.
Do not ignore the problem. Prolonged operation of the compressor in the “non-shutdown” mode (trying to catch up with the temperature) leads to its overheating and costly replacement. Timely handling will save your budget and products.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why did the refrigerator work after defrosting, but after a week it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, sensor or timer). Ice has again accumulated on the evaporator and blocked the channels. Diagnosis and replacement of the burnt-out element of the No Frost system is required.
Could the compressor be to blame if the freezer is working?
Rarely, but possible. If the compressor's performance has decreased (valve wear), its power is only enough for a small circuit (freezer), and there is no longer enough pressure for a large circuit. An option with a faulty magnetic switching valve is also possible.
How much does the repair cost if you need to refill freon?
The cost consists of the work of finding leaks, soldering, vacuuming and the cost of gas. Prices vary by region and model, but this is an average cost repair. The technician will tell you the exact amount after diagnostics.
How can you tell that the defrost heating element has burned out?
Without disassembling it is not certain. Indirect sign: the back wall of the freezer is covered with ice/snow, and the fan hums quietly or does not hum at all. An accurate answer will only be given by checking the resistance of the heating element with a multimeter.
Is it dangerous to use a refrigerator if it does not freeze well?
Yes, it is dangerous for the food (risk of poisoning) and for the unit itself. The compressor wears out, the oil in the system can become coked, which will lead to a wedge in the engine. It is better to turn off the device before repair.