Why the freezer works in the refrigerator, but the main chamber does not: a full analysis of the reasons

You open the refrigerator, and instead of the usual chill you feel room temperature - even though the freezer is working properly freezes ice and food. The situation is familiar to many owners of equipment with one compressor (for example, Indesit, Atlant, Samsung or LG). In 80% of cases, the problem is solved without calling a technician, but to do this you need to accurately determine its source.

In this article we will look at why the refrigerator compartment stops cooling when the freezer is running - from a banal clogged capillary tube to a breakdown of the electronic module. You will learn how to diagnose a malfunction based on indirect signs (noise, condensation, compressor behavior) and what to do in each case. For convenience, we have compiled all possible reasons, due to which the refrigerator compartment stops cooling when the freezer is running - from a banal blockage of the capillary tube to a breakdown of the electronic module. You will learn how to diagnose a malfunction based on indirect signs (noise, condensation, compressor behavior) and what to do in each case. For convenience, we have compiled symptom table and prepared checklists for self-repair.

Important: if your refrigerator two-compressor (separate motors for freezer and refrigerator cameras), the problem almost always lies in the breakdown of the second compressor or its control circuit. In this case, you cannot do without professional diagnostics.

How the cooling system works: why the freezer can work separately

Most household refrigerators (especially budget models) use single-circuit cooling system. This means that the refrigerant (freon) circulates through a single circuit, sequentially passing through:

• 🔹 Compressor - compresses the freon and creates pressure for its movement.
• 🔹 Condenser (grid on the back wall) — cools the compressed gas, turning it into liquid.
• 🔹 Filter drier —removes moisture from freon.
• 🔹 Capillary tube —narrows the flow, lowering the pressure in front of the evaporator.
• 🔹 Freezer evaporator —the first along the freon path, here it takes heat and cools the freezer.
• 🔹 Refrigerator evaporator cameras —the second along the path, cools the main compartment.

If the freezer works but the refrigerator does not, this means freon reaches the first evaporatorbut does not get into the second one. The reasons can be either mechanical (clogging, leakage) or electronic (breakage of the sensor, valve or module).

In refrigerators with a system No Frost (for example, Bosch KGE39XW2AR or Samsung RB30J3000SA) freon circulates similarly, but the cooling is distributed through a fan. If it fails, the cold stops flowing into the main chamber, although the freezer continues to work.

⚠️ Attention: In models with Full No Frost (for example, LG GA-B489YGQZ), fan failure is often accompanied by an error on the display (code Er IF or Er FF). If it is not there, the problem is most likely in the mechanical part of the system.

Diagnostics by symptoms: fault table

Before disassembling the refrigerator, check its behavior according to key signs. Below is a table that will help narrow down the range of possible causes.

A critical sign of a freon leak: if the condenser (grid at the back) remains cold even after an hour of compressor operation, this means that there is not enough refrigerant in the system to create pressure. In this case, independent repair is impossible - freon refilling is required by a specialist.

Clogged capillary tube: how to check and fix

Capillary tube is the narrowest place in the cooling system (diameter ~0.6–0.8 mm). Over time, it can become clogged with oil decomposition products, moisture or small particles. If a blockage occurs after the freezer evaporator, freon does not enter the refrigeration chamber and it stops cooling.

Signs of a blockage:

• 🔥 The compressor runs without stopping or with short pauses.
• ❄️ The freezer is freezing (temperature below −20°C).
• 🌡️ Condenser hot, but the refrigerator compartment is not cooling.

For diagnostics you will need:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the mains and turn it with the back wall forward.
2. Find a capillary tube (a thin copper tube running from the filter-drier to the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment).
3. Check its temperature: if it is cold all the way, the blockage is confirmed.

Turn off the refrigerator and defrost for 12+ hours|

Remove the back panel and find the capillary tube|

Disconnect the tube from the evaporator (with a soldering iron or a gas wrench)|

Blow the tube with nitrogen under a pressure of 10–15 atm|

Check the patency (air should flow freely)|

Install the tube back and solder the connections|

Fill the system with freon (a vacuum pump is required)-->

If you do not have experience in soldering copper pipes, it is better to entrust the cleaning to a specialist. Filling the system with freon yourself without evacuating the system can lead to moisture entering and reoccurring. blockage.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to clean the capillary tube with a wire or a needle - this may damage its internal coating and worsen the blockage. For cleaning, use only nitrogen under pressure or a special solvent.

The magnetic valve: why it breaks and how to check

In single-compressor refrigerators, it is responsible for the distribution of freon between the freezer and the refrigerator compartment magnetic valve (sometimes called “three-way”) It switches the refrigerant flow depending on the thermostat signals. If the valve is stuck. or its winding burns out, freon goes only to the freezer.

How to check the valve:

1. Find the valve (usually attached to the compressor, has 3 tubes and an electrical connector).
2. Disconnect the connector and test the winding with a multimeter. The resistance should be 300–800 Ohm.
3. If there is no resistance - the winding is burned out, the valve must be replaced.
4. If there is resistance, but the valve does not click when 220V is supplied - mechanical jamming.

Price of a new valve — from 1,500 to 4,000 rubles, depending on the model of the refrigerator. To replace you will need:

• 🔧 Unsolder the old valve and install a new one (use silver solder and a torch).
• 🔄 Recharge the system with freon (required!).

Temperature sensors and electronic module: hidden culprits

In modern refrigerators (for example, Samsung RL38TDCAS or LG GB-B459SLQZ) is responsible for switching modes electronic control module. If it fails or receives incorrect data from the sensors, the compressor can only work on the freezer, ignoring the main chamber.

How to diagnose:

• 📊 Check the sensor readings with a multimeter. The resistance of the fridge compartment sensor at +20°C should be 5–7 kOhm.
• 🔌 Inspect the control board for swollen capacitors or burnt tracks.
• 💻 Reset the refrigerator settings to factory settings (instructions are in the manual model).

If the module is faulty, you can:

• 🔧 Repair it (replacing capacitors, soldering tracks) - cheaper, but not always possible.
• 🆕 Replace it with a new one (price - from 3,000 to 10,000 rubles).

⚠️ Attention: Before replacing the module, be sure to check board power supply (it should be stable 12–24V depending on the model). Power surges in the network are a common cause of failure of electronics.

How to check a temperature sensor without a multimeter?

Place the sensor in a glass of cold water (+5°C) for 5 minutes. If after this the refrigerator starts to cool, the sensor is working, but is incorrectly positioned (for example, touching the wall).

Freon leak: how to detect and what to do

Freon can leak through microcracks in the tubes, solders or evaporator. Most often, leaks occur:

• 🔥 At soldering points (due to vibration or poor-quality repairs).
• ❄️ In the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber (aluminum corrosion).
• 🔧 At the joints of the tubes with the compressor.

Signs of a leak:

• The compressor works without stopping, but the condenser remains cold.
• Oil stains are visible on the back wall of the refrigerator (freon carries oil with it).
• The freezer does not freeze well, although it used to work normally.

To detect leaks use:

1. Soap solution - applied to suspicious areas. Bubbles will indicate a crack.
2. Electronic leak detector —reacts to freon vapors.
3. Ultraviolet dye —added during refueling, then checked with a UV lamp.

You can eliminate the leak yourself only if it is in accessible place (for example, on the soldering of tubes). If there is a crack in the evaporator, it will need to be replaced (in 70% of cases it is cheaper to buy a new refrigerator).

Prevention: how to avoid breakdown of the refrigerator compartment

To make the refrigerator last longer without breakdowns, follow simple rules:

• 🧊 Defrost the refrigerator every 6-12 months (even if it has No Frost). Ice on the evaporator increases the load on the compressor.
• 🌡️ Do not place the refrigerator near heat sources (battery, stove, direct sunlight). The optimal room temperature is +16…+32°C.
• 🔌 Use voltage stabilizerif your network has frequent surges.
• 🚪 Do not keep the refrigerator door open for more than 30 seconds. Every extra hour of compressor operation reduces its life by 2-3 days.
• 🧹 Regularly clean the condenser (grid at the back) of dust - this improves heat transfer.

If your refrigerator is older than 10 years, pay attention to condition of the rubber seal on the door. Over time, it loses its elasticity, and warm air enters the chamber, causing the compressor to work for wear.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators with the system No Frost it is strictly forbidden to chip off the ice with a knife or other sharp objects. This can damage the evaporator and lead to freon leakage.

Frequently asked questions about repairs

Is it possible to fill the refrigerator with freon yourself?

Theoretically, yes, but this requires vacuum pump, pressure manifold and freon cylinder (usually R134a or R600a). Without evacuation of the system (removing moisture and air), refilling is useless - the refrigerator will work for 1-2 weeks, then the blockage will recur.

If you do not have experience, It's better to call a specialist. The cost of refilling is from 2,500 to 5,000 rubles, depending on the region.

Why does the refrigerator not cool after defrosting?

Probable reasons:

1. Moisture ingress into the capillary tube - if the refrigerator was not dried before turning on.
2. Magnetic valve jammed due to condensation.
3. Electronic module failure (reset settings required).

Solution: turn off the refrigerator at 12-24 hours to dry completely, then turn on again. If the problem remains, check the valve and sensors.

How to check the thermostat in the refrigerator?

To check the thermostat:

1. Remove the protective casing from the thermostat (usually located inside the refrigerator compartment).
2. Disconnect the wires and test the contacts multimeter in resistance mode.
3. At room temperature, the resistance should be 0 Ohm (contacts are closed).
4. Place the thermostat in cold water - the resistance should become ∞ (open).

If the contacts do not open/close, the thermostat is faulty.

How much does it cost to repair a refrigerator if only the refrigerator compartment does not work?

The cost depends on the reason:

Malfunction	Repair price (RUB)
Replacing the magnetic valve	2 500–4 500
Cleaning the capillary tube + refilling with freon	3 500–6 000
Replacing the temperature sensor	1 500–3 000
Repair/replacement of electronic module	4 000–10 000
Freon leakage (search + elimination + refilling)	5 000–12 000

Prices are relevant for Moscow and regional service centers. In small towns, repairs can cost 20–30% cheaper.

Can the refrigerator not cool due to improper installation?

Yes, if:

• The refrigerator is standing uneven (misalignment more than 2°) - this disrupts the circulation of oil in compressor.
• Rear wall fits tightly to the wall —no condenser ventilation.
• The refrigerator is installed next to the heat source (battery, stove).

Solution: level the refrigerator, provide a gap of 5-10 cm with the wall and check the room temperature (not higher than +32°C).