The freezer in the refrigerator is working, but the main camera is not: reasons and what to do

The situation when freezer compartment properly freezes food, but main compartment of the refrigerator does not cool, it occurs more often than it seems. At first glance, this looks like a paradox: how can one device work and not work at the same time? In fact, this problem has a logical explanation - and in 90% of cases it is associated with separate cooling systems or malfunctions in the control circuit.

Many users mistakenly They think that the refrigerator and freezer are cooled by one compressor through a common line. Modern models (Samsung No Frost, LG Inverter, Atlant two-chamber) often use double-circuit systems or independent evaporators. If the refrigerator has stopped cooling, but the freezer is working, this is a signal of a local breakdown, which can be diagnosed without calling a technician.

In this article we will analyze 7 main reasonswhy the refrigerator does not freeze, but the freezer works, from banal icing to failure of the electronic module. We will also give step-by-step instructions on how to check the malfunction yourself and when exactly it’s time to call a specialist.

1. Clogged capillary tube or filter drier

One ​​of the most common reasons why the refrigerator does not coolbut the freezer is working - clogging in the refrigerant circulation system. In two-chamber refrigerators with one compressor, freon first enters the freezer compartment and then into the main compartment. If there is an obstacle on the way (for example, in capillary tube or filter drier), the refrigerant simply does not reach the fridge compartment.

How does this manifest itself:

• 🔹 The freezer is operating normally (temperature -18°C and below).
• 🔹 The refrigerator compartment is warm or slightly cool (15–20°C).
• 🔹 The compressor works without stopping or turns on too often.
• 🔹 Ice may appear on the back wall of the refrigerator in the evaporator area.

The cause of clogging is moisture entering the system (due to depressurization) or mechanical particles (for example, after poor quality repairs). As a result, freon cannot circulate freely, and its pressure in the refrigeration chamber circuit drops to zero.

⚠️ Attention: If the blockage is due to moisture, simply cleaning the tube is not enough - you will need to completely refill it with new refrigerant. It is impossible to do this on your own: you need professional tools and experience. vacuumization of the system and charging with new refrigerant. It is impossible to do this on your own: you need professional tools and experience.

2. Malfunction of the thermostat (thermostat) of the fridge compartment

In refrigerators with mechanically controlled (for example, Biryusa, Snaige, old models Indesit) a separate thermostatis responsible for the temperature in the main chamber. If it fails, the compressor stops receiving a signal about the need to cool the refrigeration compartment, but continues to work for the freezer.

Signs of a thermostat failure:

• 🔧 Freezer it freezes, but the refrigerator is warm.
• 🔧 When you rotate the thermostat knob, there is no click (the characteristic sound of contacts closing).
• 🔧 The light inside the refrigerator is on, but the compressor does not turn on to cool the main chamber.
• 🔧 If you knock on the body thermostat, the refrigerator may temporarily work (a sign of burnt contacts).

You can check the thermostat with a multimeter:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network.
2. Remove the thermostat protective cover (usually located inside the chamber or on the top panel).
3. Disconnect wires from the terminals.
4. Switch the multimeter to resistance test mode (200 Ohms) and measure the readings between the contacts. At room temperature the resistance should be close to zero. If the device shows "1" (break), the thermostat is faulty.

If the thermostat is faulty, it needs to be replaced. The cost of a new part is from 500 to 2000 rubles, depending on the model. To replace, just disconnect the old sensor and connect a new one in its place (the color markings of the wires must match!).

3. No Frost fan failure

In refrigerators with a system No Frost (Samsung RL-44, LG GA-B489, Bosch KAN92VI30R), cooling of both chambers is carried out due to the circulation of cold air. If fanthat drives air through the channels breaks down, the freezer continues to work (since the evaporator is located next to it), and the refrigerator compartment stops cooling.

How to understand that the problem is in the fan:

• 🌀 The temperature in the freezer is normal, in the refrigerator - +15°C and above.
• 🌀 When the freezer door is open, you can’t hear the fan working (normally there should be a slight noise).
• 🌀 Ice forms on the back wall of the refrigerator (due to uneven distribution of cold).
• 🌀 The refrigerator may make unusual sounds: crackling, grinding or humming.

Causes of fan failure:

If the fan is frozen, try defrosting the refrigerator for a day. If the problem is a mechanical failure, a part will need to be replaced (the cost of the fan is from 1,500 to 4,000 rubles).

4. Freon leak in the refrigeration circuit

If there is a leak in the system refrigerant leak, the compressor continues to operate, but the cooling efficiency drops. Since the freezer is located closer to the compressor, it can maintain a low temperature for some time, and the refrigerator compartment will stop cooling first.

Signs of a freon leak:

• 💨 The compressor runs continuously or turns on too much often.
• 💨 The condenser (grid on the back wall) does not heat up.
• 💨 Oil stains are visible on the tubes or in soldering areas (freon leaves along with the oil).
• 💨 The refrigerator makes gurgling sounds (the refrigerant boils in places leaks).

The most common cause of leaks is corrosion of pipes (especially in old refrigerators) or mechanical damage (for example, when moving equipment). Less commonly, the culprit is factory defects in soldering areas.

⚠️ Attention: Freon is colorless and odorless, but its leakage is hazardous to health in large volumes. If you suspect a breakdown of the circuit, do not try to solder the tubes yourself - this requires special equipment and certification.

Repair for a freon leak:

1. The technician finds the location of the leak (using a leak detector or soap solution).
2. Eliminates damage (soldering, replacing a section of tube).
3. Evacuates the system (removes moisture and air).
4. Adds new refrigerant (usually R-134a or R-600a).

Repair cost: from 3000 to 8000 rubles depending on the complexity and type of freon.

5. Failure of the electronic control module

In modern refrigerators with electronically controlled (Samsung RB-30 J3200, LG GB-B459SLQZ, Liebert) the board is responsible for the distribution of cold. If it fails, a malfunction in the operating logic may occur: the compressor will only drive freon into the freezer, ignoring the fridge compartment.

Symptoms of module malfunction:

• 📱 The display shows an error (for example, E1, FF or rH y Samsung).
• 📱 The refrigerator does not respond to temperature changes from the control panel.
• 📱 The compressor turns on randomly or does not turn off at all.
• 📱 Fans and The heating elements operate asynchronously.

Causes of board failure:

• 🔌 Power surges in the network.
• 🔌 Moisture ingress (for example, during defrosting).
• 🔌 Factory defects or wear capacitors.

It is difficult to diagnose a module malfunction on your own - you need skills in working with a multimeter and a refrigerator circuit. In most cases, it is necessary to reflashing or replace the board (cost - from 2,500 to 10,000 rubles).

How to temporarily “reanimate” a refrigerator if the board fails?

If the refrigerator stops cooling due to a firmware failure, try disconnecting it from the network for 10-15 minutes, then turning it on again. Sometimes this resets the errors. If the problem is burnt tracks or capacitors, this method will not help - soldering or replacement is needed.

6. Clogged drainage system or icing on the evaporator

If the drain hole in the refrigerator is clogged, the condensate does not flow into the pan, but freezes on the evaporator. Over time, ice blocks the access of cold air to the refrigerator compartment, and it stops cooling, while the freezer works normally. drip system (Atlant, Stinol, Beko) the drainage hole is clogged, condensate does not flow into the pan, but freezes on the evaporator. Over time, ice blocks cold air from entering the refrigerator compartment, and it stops cooling, while the freezer works normally.

Signs of clogged drainage:

• 💧 Ice or snow builds up on the back wall of the refrigerator "fur coat".
• 💧 Water accumulates at the bottom of the chamber.
• 💧 The refrigerator does not cool well, but the fan (if any) works.

How to clean the drainage:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove all products from the chamber.
3. Find a drainage hole (usually at the bottom of the back wall).
4. Clean it with a syringe with warm water or wire.
5. Rinse the hole with a soda solution (1 tablespoon per glass of water) to remove mold.
6. Wipe dry and turn on the refrigerator.

If ice has already accumulated on the evaporator, complete defrosting will be required (at least 12 hours). After this, check the door seal - if it is damaged, moisture will again enter the chamber.

7. Compressor malfunction (in two-compressor models)

In refrigerators with two compressors (Samsung RT-43, LG GR-N309SLQ, Gorenje NRK 6191, each compartment is cooled by a separate motor. If the refrigerator compartment compressor burns out, the freezer continues to work, but the main compartment does not.

How to determine that the compressor is to blame:

• ⚡ The freezer is freezing, the refrigerator is warm.
• ⚡ The refrigerator compartment compressor does not turn on (no vibration or hum is heard).
• ⚡ Traces of oil or soot are visible on the motor housing.
• ⚡ When you try to start, the compressor clicks and turns off (protection is triggered).

Causes of compressor failure:

• 🔥 Overheating due to poor ventilation.
• 🔥 Voltage surges.
• 🔥 Wear of the piston group (natural after 10–15 years of operation).
• 🔥 Jamming due to metal shavings.

You can check the compressor like this:

1. Turn off the refrigerator.
2. Touch the compressor housing of the refrigeration chamber - if it is cold and the motor does not hum, most likely there is a break windings.
3. Test the windings with a multimeter (the resistance between the contacts should be 20–40 Ohms). If the device shows “1” - open, “0” - short circuit.

⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator compressor burns out, replacing it will cost 50–70% of the cost of a new refrigerator. In this case, it is more advisable to consider purchasing new equipment, especially if your model is more than 10 years old.

What to do if the refrigerator does not cool, but the freezer is working?

The algorithm of actions depends on the cause of the malfunction. Here are universal instructions for initial diagnosis:

If you are unsure of the cause, follow this plan:

1. Defrost the refrigerator for 12–24 hours. This will help remove icing fan or evaporator.
2. Check the thermostat. If there is no click when turning the knob, replace it.
3. Inspect the compressor. If it does not turn on or gets very hot, diagnostics is needed technician.
4. Ring the circuits. If you have the skills to work with a multimeter, check the fan, defrost heating element and control board.

If after defrosting the problem persists and self-repair did not help, contact a service technician center. Do not delay a visit to the technician: some breakdowns (for example, freon leaks) get worse over time and lead to compressor failure.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions

Is it possible to use a refrigerator if the freezer is working, but the main chamber is not?

For a short time (1-2 days) it is possible, but not recommended. If the problem is a freon leak or a compressor malfunction, operating in this mode can lead to complete failure of the equipment. In addition, food in the refrigerator compartment will quickly spoil at temperatures above +5°C.

How much does repair cost if the refrigerator does not cool, but the freezer works?

The cost depends on the reason:

• Replacement of the thermostat - 1000–2500 RUB
• Drainage cleaning - 800–1500 RUB
• Replacement of fan - 2000-4000 RUB
• Freon leakage elimination + refilling - 3500-8000 RUB
• Replacement of the compressor - 6000–12000 rubles.
• Repair/replacement of the control board - 3000–10000 rubles.

The technician will tell you the exact price after diagnostics.

Why after defrosting the refrigerator does not cool, but Is the freezer working?

Probable reasons:

1. During defrosting it occurred freon leak (if you used sharp objects to remove ice).
2. Burned refrigeration chamber compressor due to overload.
3. Moisture got on control boardcausing a short circuit.
4. Clogged capillary tube due to the ingress of ice particles.

If after defrosting the refrigerator does not work, turn it off and call a technician.

How to check if the refrigeration compressor is working cameras?

Checking methods:

• 🔊 Place your ear on the back wall of the refrigerator. A running compressor emits a slight hum or vibration.
• 🔥 Touch the compressor housing (carefully!). If it is warm, the motor is running; if it is cold, it does not turn on.
• 📊 Use a multimeter: check the resistance between the contacts (should be 20–40 Ohms).

If the compressor does not turn on, check the thermostat and control board.

Can the refrigerator not cool due to incorrect installation?

Yes, but only indirectly. If the refrigerator is too close to the wall or heat sources (battery, stove), the condenser does not cooland the operating efficiency decreases. As a result, the compressor cannot cope with the load, and the refrigerator compartment stops cooling, but the freezer still “holds on.”

Solution: provide a gap of at least 5 cm on all sides of the refrigerator and check the room temperature (optimally - 16–30°C).