Why the upper chamber does not cool in the refrigerator - a complete analysis of the reasons and solutions

Have you opened the refrigerator, but the upper chamber - be it the freezer compartment or the freshness zone - is not cooling as well as before? The food is spoiling, there is condensation on the walls, and the motor is running non-stop or, conversely, is silent? This problem is familiar to many owners of equipment Indesit, Samsung, LG, Atlant and other brands. In 80% of cases, the malfunction can be fixed on your own, without resorting to expensive repairs.

In this article we will look at why the upper chamber stopped cooling - from banal icing of the fan to serious compressor breakdowns. You will learn how all possible reasons, due to which the upper chamber has stopped cooling - from banal icing of the fan to serious compressor breakdowns. You will learn how to diagnose a refrigerator in 10 minuteswhich parts to check first, and when you really should call a technician. And also - why in 30% of cases it is not the refrigerator itself that is to blame, but external factors (and how to eliminate them for free).

Do not rush to take the equipment to service: follow the logic of troubleshooting and act step by step. Let's start with the simplest!

1. Check the obvious: 5 external reasons that 90% of users miss

Before disassembling the refrigerator, exclude factors not related to the breakdown. They are more common than it seems:

• 🔌 Power supply problems. The refrigerator may “receive” insufficient voltage (for example, due to surges in the network or connected through an extension cord with thin wires). Check the socket with a multimeter - the voltage should be 220–230 V.
• ☀️ Compressor overheating. If the refrigerator is placed close to a wall, radiator, or in direct sunlight, the motor overheats and turns off. Normal gap - 5–10 cm on all sides.
• 🧊 Clogged drainage. In models with a system No Frost clogged drainage leads to ice on the evaporator, which blocks air circulation. Inspect the back wall of the chamber - if there is ice there, the problem has been found.
• 📦 Overload with products. The shelves, packed to capacity, block the ventilation holes. In the upper chamber, the temperature rises, and the sensors mistakenly “think” that cooling is not needed.
• 🔄 Wrong mode. In refrigerators with electronic control (for example Samsung RB37J5240SA), the upper chamber can be turned off when the “Vacation” or “Eco” mode is activated. Check the settings on the panel.

If none of the points apply, move on to technical faults. But first answer:

2. Fan failure: why the upper chamber is warm, but the lower one works

In refrigerators with a system No Frost (or its analogues, like Total No Frost y LG) the fan is responsible for the circulation of cold air. If it breaks, the upper chamber stops cooling, and the lower chamber (where the evaporator is located) may remain cold. Signs:

• 🔇 The refrigerator is working, but it is warm in the upper chamber.
• 🔊 There is no characteristic fan noise (normally it is heard when the door is open).
• ❄️ There is a thick layer of ice on the back wall of the freezer (the fan does not blow evaporator).

How to check the fan:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the back panel in the freezer (usually it is secured with latches or screws).
3. Try to turn the fan blades by hand. If they do not rotate or rotate with difficulty, the problem is in the bearing or icing.
4. Connect the refrigerator and listen: the fan should start working 5-10 minutes after the compressor starts.

If the fan does not turn on, the reasons may be:

• 🔌 Breakage of the winding (the fan motor needs to be replaced).
• 🧊 Ice on the blades (defrost the refrigerator for 12–24 hours).
• 🔧 Failure of the control board (fan does not receive a signal to start).

3. Freon leak: when the refrigerator works but does not freeze

Freon is a refrigerant that circulates through the system and “takes” heat from the chambers. If it leaks, the compressor runs idle: a hum is heard, but there is no cooling. Signs of a leak:

• 🕒 The compressor runs without stopping or turns on for 1-2 minutes and turns off.
• 🔥 The refrigerator body heats up more than usual (especially at the leak site).
• 💧 There are oily spots on the floor under the refrigerator (freon is mixed with oil compressor).

Where the leak most often occurs:

Freon leakage cannot be eliminated independently - required soldering tubes, evacuating the system i recharging refrigerant. Average repair cost: 3 500–8 000 ₽ depending on the model.

4. Failure of the thermostat or temperature sensor

The thermostat (in mechanical models) or temperature sensor (in electronic models) is responsible for turning the compressor on/off. If it breaks, the refrigerator either does not cool at all or works without stopping. How to recognize the problem:

• 📉 The temperature in the upper chamber does not correspond to the set one (for example, it shows +5°C, but in fact +15°C).
• 🔄 The compressor does not turn off or, conversely, does not turn on.
• 💡 On the control panel an error flashes (for example, E1 or F2 y Bosch, OF y Samsung).

How to check the thermostat:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply.
2. Remove the protective cover thermostat (usually located next to the lighting lamp).
3. Test the thermostat with a multimeter in resistance test mode:

   — At room temperature, the resistance should be ~0 Ohm.
   — When cooled (for example, if you put the thermostat in ice), the resistance should increase to infinity.

If the thermostat does not respond to temperature, it needs to be replaced. Average cost of the part: 800–2 500 ₽In electronic models (for example, LG GA-B489YGQZ) the sensor often fails, rather than the thermostat itself. It is checked in the same way, but the normal resistance depends on the model (check the documentation).

How to trick the thermostat to temporarily operate the refrigerator?

If the thermostat is mechanical, you can close its contacts with a wire - the compressor will work constantly. This is a temporary solution! Use only to preserve food before repair (no more than 1-2 days).

5. Compressor malfunction: when the refrigerator hums, but does not freeze

The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator. If it breaks, there will be no cooling in any of the chambers. But sometimes the compressor works for weartrying to compensate for other faults (for example, a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube). Signs of problems with the compressor:

• 🔊 Strong hum or knocking during operation (normally there should be uniform noise).
• 🔥 The compressor body is hot (more than 70–80°C).
• ⚡ The refrigerator turns on for a few seconds and turns off (protection is triggered).
• 💡 On the panel there is an error associated with the motor (for example, E3 y Indesit, F5 y Atlant).

How to diagnose a compressor:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and wait until the compressor cools down.
2. Test the windings with a multimeter:

   — The resistance between the contacts should be:
   • Starting winding: 20–40 Ohm
   • Working winding: 10–20 Ohm
   • Between the windings and the housing: ∞ (no short circuit)

3. If there is no resistance or there is a short to the housing, the compressor is faulty.

Cost of a new one compressor: 5 000–15 000 ₽ (depending on the model). Replacement requires special equipment, so it is better to entrust it to a specialist. However, if the refrigerator is older than 10 years, it is more economical to buy a new one.

Disconnect the refrigerator from the network

Check the resistance of the windings with a multimeter

Inspect the relay. startup (often it sticks)

Listen to the compressor for extraneous noise-->

6. Clogged capillary tube: why the refrigerator does not cool, but the compressor works

The capillary tube is a thin channel through which freon enters the evaporator. becomes clogged (for example, with oil decomposition products or moisture), the refrigerant does not circulate, and the upper chamber stops cooling. Signs of a blockage:

• 🕒 The compressor runs for a long time (more than 30 minutes without stopping), but there is no cold.
• 🔥 The condenser (grid at the back of the refrigerator) is not working. is heating up.
• 💧 Frost or condensation is visible on the tubes next to the compressor.

How to check the blockage:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and wait until the pressure in the system equalizes (10-15 minutes).
2. Find capillary tube (thin copper tube going from the compressor to the evaporator).
3. Carefully feel it along its entire length. At the site of the blockage, the tube will be colder than other areas.

You can remove the blockage in two ways:

• 🔧 Blowing with nitrogen (done in service, cost: 2 000–4 000 ₽).
• 🔄 Replacement of the capillary tube (if the blockage is persistent, price: 3 500–6 000 ₽).

At home, it is almost impossible to clean the tube - professional equipment is required. Do not try to do this with improvised means (for example, wire) so as not to damage the system!

7. Breakdown of the control board: when the refrigerator “fails”

In modern refrigerators (for example, Samsung RL60NBRSA1 or LG GB-B459SLQZ) the electronic board is responsible for the operation of all systems. If it fails, the upper chamber may not cool, even if the compressor and fan are working. Signs:

• 📛 Random characters or errors appear on the display (for example, Er IF at Bosch).
• 🔄 The refrigerator turns on/off spontaneously.
• 🎛️ The buttons on the panel do not respond or work with a delay.
• 🔥 The board smells like burning or has blackened marks on it elements.

What to do:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the mains for 10-15 minutes (sometimes a “reboot” helps).
2. Inspect the board for swollen capacitors, burnt tracks or oxidized contacts.
3. If visually everything is fine OK, check the voltage at the output of the board's power supply (should be 5 V or 12 V depending on the model).

Repairing the board costs $ 2 000–7 000 ₽, replacement - in 5 000–12 000 ₽. In some cases, it is cheaper to buy a used board at disassembly (for example, for Atlant or Indesit).

What to do if nothing helps? Step-by-step action plan

If you have checked all the possible reasons, but the upper chamber still does not cool, follow the algorithm:

1. Defrost the refrigerator for 24 hours. If it is torn or deformed, warm air enters the chamber. Carry out a test: close the door by inserting a sheet of paper between the seal and the body. If it falls out, the seal needs to be replaced.Sometimes ice blocks the operation of the fan or sensors, and the problem is solved after complete operation. defrosting.
2. Check. door seal. If it is torn or deformed, warm air enters the chamber. Carry out a test: close the door by inserting a sheet of paper between the seal and the body. If it falls out, the seal needs to be replaced.
3. Reset the settings to factory settings. In electronic models, this is done through the menu (for example, Settings → Reset).
4. Call technicianif:
   • The compressor does not turn on.
   • There is a freon leak.
   • The control board is burned out.

The average cost of diagnostics in the service: 1 000–2 000 ₽If repair is impractical. (for example, for a refrigerator older than 15 years), consider buying a new one. Modern models (for example, LG InstaView or Samsung Bespoke) consume 30–40% less electricity.

How to save on repairs?

If the refrigerator is under warranty, repairs are free (even if there is a leak) freon). If the warranty is over, look for a repairman based on reviews on Yandex.Services or Profi.ru. The average price of “independent” repairs (with spare parts) is 1.5–2 times lower than in a branded service.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about the upper chamber not working

Is it possible to use the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not cool?

It is possible, but with reservations:

• If not works freezer compartment —the refrigerator compartment will be overloaded, and the compressor will fail faster.
• If it is not cooled refrigerator compartment —the food in the freezer will remain frozen, but the risk of compressor damage is higher.
• If the reason is freon leakage or breakage compressor the refrigerator cannot be used (you can burn the motor).

The best option is to temporarily put the food in a cooler bag or with your neighbors while repairs are underway.

How much does it cost to repair if the upper chamber does not freeze?

The cost depends on the reason:

Breakage	Repair cost (₽)
Fan replacement	1 500–3 000
Freon leakage + refill	3 500–8 000
Replacement of thermostat/sensor	1 200–2 500
Repair of the control board	2 000–7 000
Replacement of the compressor	5 000–15 000

Prices are relevant for Moscow and the regions for 2026. In remote areas, the cost may be 20–30% higher.

How long can food be stored if the upper chamber does not work?

Shelf life at room temperature (+20–25°C):

• 🥛 Milk, sour cream, yoghurts - up to 2 hours.
• 🍗 Raw meat/fish - up to 1 hour.
• 🥚 Eggs - up to 1 day (in cool place).
• 🧀 Hard cheese - up to 3 days (in sealed packaging).
• 🍎 Fruits/vegetables - 1-2 days (depending on the variety).

To prolong freshness, wrap the products in a damp cloth and place in the coolest place (for example, on the balcony, if it’s not hot outside).

Is it possible to fill the refrigerator with freon yourself?

Theoretically, yes, but in practice it is extremely dangerous:

• Freon under pressure 8–12 atm. If filled incorrectly, the tubes may burst.
• The refrigerant is toxic. Inhalation of vapors leads to poisoning.
• For refilling you need vacuum equipment (the cost of the set is from 20 000 ₽).
• An error in the dosage of freon will lead to a repeated leak or breakdown of the compressor.

If you do not have experience, it is better not to risk it. Contact the service - the craftsmen use professional equipment and provide a guarantee for the work.

Why does the upper chamber not cool after defrosting?

Possible reasons:

• 🧊 Ice remains on the evaporator —it blocks the fan. Defrost longer (up to 24 hours).
• 💧 Water got on the electronics — dry the refrigerator with a hairdryer (cold air!) for 1–2 hours.
• 🔌 The settings are lost — reset the refrigerator to factory settings (instructions in the manual).
• 🔧 The part was damaged during defrosting —for example, the sensor wire was torn off or the tube was bent. Inspect visually.

If after defrosting the refrigerator does not turn on at all, check the fuse on the compressor (it may burn out from moisture).