The situation when mainly The refrigerator compartment is in perfect cold, and the freezer has stopped performing its functions, which is one of the most worrisome for the owner of household appliances. You open the door, expecting to see hard food, only to find soft meat or melting ice, while the shelves of drinks and vegetables remain cool. This separation of temperature conditions indicates specific malfunctions that require immediate attention, since food in the freezer can spoil in a matter of hours.
In most cases, the problem lies in a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the compressor control system. Modern technology, be it Indesit, Bosch or LG, is designed in such a way that often one compressor serves both circuits, but their control may differ. If you notice that the freezer has stopped freezing, the first thing to do is assess the scale of the disaster: whether the cold has completely disappeared or the temperature has simply become higher than normal, for example, -5°C instead of the required -18°C.
Further actions depend on whether you hear the compressor running, whether there is ice on the back wall and whether the alarm is on. In this material, we will analyze the main causes of failure, from simple operating errors to complex technical malfunctions that require calling a technician.
Problems with refrigerant circulation and freon leaks
One of the most common reasons why a freezer stops cooling is a partial refrigerant leak. In such situations, the compressor continues to operate, trying to build up pressure, but the amount of gas in the system becomes insufficient to maintain low temperatures in both circuits. Often the cold first disappears in the freezer, since it is further from the evaporator or requires more intensive cooling, while residual cold still remains in the refrigerator compartment.
If there is a leak in the system, you may notice that the compressor works almost non-stop, trying to compensate for the lack of freon. In models with a drip defrosting system, a sign of a leak is often a hot condenser (grid at the back) only in the upper part, while the lower part remains cold. This indicates that the gas simply does not reach the bottom. No Frost If there is a leak, you may notice that the compressor is running almost non-stop, trying to compensate for the lack of freon. In models with a drip defrosting system, a sign of a leak is often a hot condenser (grid at the back) only in the upper part, while the lower part remains cold. This suggests that the gas simply does not reach the bottom.
⚠️ Attention: Self-filling the refrigerator with freon without evacuation of the system and finding the leak is a temporary solution that will lead to compressor failure in a few months. Freon is not consumed during operation, and if there is not enough of it, it means that the tightness of the circuit is broken.
To accurately diagnose leaks, technicians use leak detectors or the soap suds method, checking all connecting seams and tubes. In some cases, the leak occurs in the foamed part of the housing, which makes repair economically impractical. If you hear a characteristic hissing or see oily stains on the floor under the refrigerator, this is a sure sign of depressurization.
Faults defrosting systems in refrigerators No Frost
Technology No Frost (or “Windy cold”) assumes the absence of ice due to constant air circulation and periodic automatic defrosting of the evaporator. If this system fails, ice begins to build up on the evaporator, which is hidden behind a plastic panel inside the freezer. Over time, the ice “coat” becomes so thick that it blocks the cold air supply channels, and the freezer stops freezing, although the compressor hums normally.
The main culprits in this situation are three elements: the defrost timer, the heating element (heating element) or the defrost sensor. If any of them fails, the defrost cycle does not start or is terminated prematurely. As a result, the fan may continue to circulate air, but this air is not cooled because the evaporator is clogged with ice. You can hear that the fan is noisy or even crackling, touching the frozen ice with its blades.
- ❄️ Defrost heating element —the spiral burns out, and the ice on the evaporator does not melt during the defrost cycle.
- ⏱️ Timer or control board —the “brain” of the system does not give the command to turn on the heating or, conversely, does not switches the refrigerator to cooling mode.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor (defrost thermostat) - incorrectly reads the temperature and interrupts heating too early, not allowing the ice to completely melt.
To confirm this hypothesis, often It requires complete defrosting of the refrigerator in the off state during the day. If after defrosting the freezer starts to freeze again, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returns, the diagnosis of “malfunction of the defrost system” is confirmed. In models Samsung and LG a frequent problem is also freezing of the air supply channel, which can be treated by replacing the door seal or adjusting the tilt of the body.
How to check the heating element with a multimeter?
To check, you need to get to the evaporator, remove the heating element and ring with its multimeter probes in resistance measurement mode. If the device shows “infinity” (one on the left), it means that the spiral is broken and the element requires replacement.
Failures in the operation of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator, and if it does not work correctly, the entire thermodynamics of the process is disrupted. A situation where the freezer does not freeze, but the refrigerator works, can arise when the compressor “sticks” or the start relay fails. In this case, the engine tries to start, hums for a few seconds, clicks and turns off. The pressure in the system is not enough to push freon through the entire circuit, so the cold simply does not reach the freezer.
Sometimes the compressor works, but its performance has dropped due to the wear-out of mechanical parts (valves). It creates insufficient pressure, which is only enough to maintain the temperature in the main compartment, but there is no longer enough power to freeze food. You can determine this by touching the return tube (coming out of the freezer): if it is not cold, but at room temperature or slightly warm, then the circulation is impaired.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear that the compressor is humming, clicking and does not start, immediately unplug the refrigerator. Repeated starting attempts can lead to burnout of the motor windings and expensive repairs or replacement of the unit.
It is also worth checking the start-up relay, which is located on the side or bottom of the compressor. If it burns out, the compressor will not be able to transition from start-up mode to operating mode. Replacing a relay is a simple procedure that you can often do yourself if you have the skill to work with electrical appliances. However, if after replacing the relay the situation has not changed, the problem is deeper and lies in the motor-compressor itself.
Clogged capillary tube and other mechanical blockages
The capillary tube is a very thin copper pipe in which the refrigerant is throttled. Due to its small diameter, it is extremely sensitive to contamination. If moisture, dirt or oil breakdown products get into the system, a blockage may form. As a result, freon circulates only in part of the circuit (usually up to the point of blockage), and the freezer further down the circuit remains warm.
Signs of a clogged capillary tube often include strange behavior of the condenser: it may be hot only at the beginning or, conversely, cold along the entire length, although the compressor is running. Another characteristic feature is the absence of the characteristic noise of flowing gas (gurgling) inside the refrigerator after it is turned off. Instead of silence, you can only hear the hum of the motor.
Removing the blockage requires professional intervention: craftsmen flush the system with nitrogen under high pressure or replace the filter-drier, which is often where moisture accumulates. It is impossible to break through the blockage on your own without special equipment, and attempts to warm up the tube with a hairdryer can lead to depressurization of the solder or fire of the insulation.
☑️ Diagnostics before calling a technician
Electronic faults and temperature sensors
Modern refrigerators, such as Bosch, Siemens or Electrolux, are crammed with electronics. An electronic control module, which receives data from various sensors, is responsible for the distribution of cold and the operation of the compressor. If the temperature sensor in the freezer (thermostat) fails and transmits incorrect data (for example, that it is -20°C, although in fact it is +5°C), the “brain” of the refrigerator simply will not turn on the compressor or the supply of refrigerant to this circuit.
Also problems may be associated with the damper (damper-regulator), which distributes cold air flows between the chambers in two-compressor systems or systems with one compressor and electronic control. If the damper is stuck in the closed position, cold will physically not be able to enter the freezer. This is often accompanied by errors on the display, if it is provided by the model.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Probability | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| The compressor is silent, there is no light no | No power, module burnt out | High | Medium |
| Humming, but not freezing | Freon leak, blockage | High | High |
| Works without stopping | Leakage, door leakage | Average | Average |
| Sometimes it freezes, sometimes it doesn’t | Problems with defrosting, sensors | High | Medium |
Diagnostics of electronic components often requires connecting a special tester or switching the refrigerator to service mode. Error codes displayed on the display (for example, F1, E2, etc.) can pinpoint a burnt sensor. However, it is worth remembering that power surges in the network could damage the control board itself, which will require its flashing or replacement.
The influence of improper operation and external factors
The cause of the breakdown is not always a technical malfunction. Sometimes users themselves create conditions under which the freezer cannot operate efficiently. For example, loading the freezer with hot food leads to a sharp increase in humidity and the formation of an ice crust that blocks ventilation. Also, frequent and prolonged opening of doors in a hot room causes equipment to wear out.
Another important factor is the position of the refrigerator. If the device is placed too close to a wall or in a niche, the heat exchange of the condenser is disrupted. The compressor overheats and can go into protection mode without having time to freeze the chamber to the required values. In addition, skewed housing (when the door does not close by itself under the influence of gravity) leads to the suction of warm air and freezing.
- 🚫 Loading hot: It is strictly forbidden to place warm pots or baking trays in the freezer.
- 🌬️ Ventilation: The gap between the back wall of the refrigerator and the wall should be at least 5-7 cm.
- 🚪 Sealant: A dirty or damaged door seal allows moist air to pass through, causing ice.
Also check whether you are blocking the ventilation vents with products holes inside the chambers. In systems No Frost air must circulate freely. If you fill the entire space with food up to the ceiling, the cold simply will not be able to reach some areas, creating the illusion of a breakdown.
What to do if the refrigerator has been turned off for a long time?
If the refrigerator was transported lying down or it did not work for a long time, you cannot turn it on immediately. The oil needs time (from 2 to 24 hours) to drain into the compressor crankcase. Switching on “dry” can lead to water hammer and damage to the valves.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator with one working chamber?
Technically, it is possible, but not recommended. If the freezer does not work due to a leak, the compressor will work hard trying to get the temperature up. If the reason is electronics, the food in the main compartment may be damaged in the future. It is better to fix the problem.
Why does ice freeze in the freezer, but the food does not freeze?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system or a freon leak. Ice is formed by moisture in the air, but the refrigerant is not cold enough to freeze food. Diagnostics are required.
How often do you need to defrost a No Frost refrigerator?
The No Frost system does not require manual defrosting to remove ice, but once every 6-12 months it is recommended to carry out preventive defrosting and washing for hygiene and checking the condition of the seals.
Crackling noise is heard in the freezer - is this dangerous?
Often plastic makes a cracking noise when the temperature changes, but if the crackling is rhythmic and comes from the fan, this means that the blades are touching the ice. It is necessary to defrost and check the defrosting system.