It’s warm in the refrigerator, but the freezer is freezing: reasons and what to do

Have you opened the refrigerator, and instead of the usual coolness, there is room temperature, but the freezer works as if nothing had happened? This situation is familiar to many owners of equipment Atlant, Samsung, Indesit and other brands. What is the reason for this imbalance and is it possible to cope with the problem yourself?

At first glance, it seems that the refrigerator “chooses” which part to cool, but in fact there are specific technical faults behind this. In 80% of cases, clogged capillary tube, fan failure or incorrect settingsare to blame. Let's figure out how to diagnose the problem and what to do to return the refrigerator to working order - without calling a technician or at minimal cost.

Important: if your refrigerator has system No Frost, the fault finding algorithm will differ from models with drip defrosting. We will consider both options.

1. How does cooling work in a refrigerator: why is the freezer “more important”?

To understand why the freezer continues to freeze while the main compartment heats up, you need to understand the principle of operation of the system. In most refrigerators (except for models with Full No Frost and separate cooling circuits), the cold is distributed according to the following algorithm:

1. Compressor compresses the refrigerant (freon), heating it to a high temperature.
2. Hot freon enters in condenser (grid on the back wall), where it cools and turns into a liquid state.
3. The liquid refrigerant passes through filter-drier i capillary tube, where its pressure drops sharply and the temperature drops to −15…−30°C.
4. The cooled freon enters freezer evaporator —here it takes heat from the chamber, freezing the food.
5. Next, cold air (in models with No Frost) or refrigerant (in drip systems) enters main compartment through special channels or an additional evaporator.

Key point: the freezer compartment is always cooled first - this is built into the design. If at some stage after it a failure occurs, the main compartment is left without cold.

In refrigerators with No Frost responsible for air distribution, and in drip models the cold is transmitted through fan, and in drip models the cold is transmitted through evaporator (usually located on the back wall). If this process is disrupted, here you have a warm refrigerator with the freezer running.

2. Top 7 reasons why the refrigerator is warm and the freezer is cold

Now let's move on to specific malfunctions. We have collected the most common reasons, ranked by the frequency of calls to service centers (data for 2023–2026).

Let's look at each reason in more detail - with symptoms and methods of checking.

2.1. Clogged capillary tube

The capillary tube is a thin copper channel through which the refrigerant enters the evaporator. Over time, it can become clogged oil, moisture or with freon decomposition products. As a result:

• 🔹 Freon does not pass into the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment.
• 🔹 The freezer is working normally (its evaporator receives cold first).
• 🔹 The compressor overheats and runs non-stop.

How to check: touch condenser (grid at the back of the refrigerator). If it is cold and the compressor is hot, this is a sign of a blockage.

2.2. No Frost fan failure

In systems No Frost the fan is responsible for circulating cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. If it breaks:

• 🌬️ The freezer freezes (the cold remains there).
• 🔥 The refrigerator heats up (no air flows).
• 🔇 The characteristic fan noise disappears.

How to check: open the freezer and listen. Normally, a slight hum of the fan should be heard. If there is silence, it is most likely broken. Also check whether the blades are blocked by ice (more on this in the next paragraph).

2.3. Freezing of the evaporator (in No Frost)

If the system No Frost stops working defrost heater (heating element), the evaporator becomes covered with ice. This blocks:

• ❄️ Air circulation (the fan cannot spin).
• 🧊 Cooling the refrigerator compartment (the cold does not pass beyond the freezer).

How check: defrost the refrigerator for 12–24 hours. If after switching on the problem disappears, the defrost heating element is to blame. If not, look for another reason.

What to do if ice appears in the freezer again?

If after defrosting ice forms again within 1-2 weeks, this confirms a malfunction of the defrosting heating element or defrosting timer. In this case, replacement of the part is required. A temporary solution is to defrost the refrigerator every 2-3 weeks, but this leads to increased wear on the compressor.

3. Fault diagnosis: step-by-step instructions

Before calling a technician, go through this checklist. Perhaps the problem can be solved without repair.

Check that the refrigerator door is tightly closed|Make sure that the thermostat is not broken (optimally: +4...+5°C)|Listen to whether the fan is working (for No Frost)|Inspect the back wall of the freezer for ice (for No Frost)|Check whether the condenser is hot (grid at the back)-->

3.1. Checking the door seal

If the sealing rubber is worn out or dirty, warm air enters the chamber and the refrigerator cannot maintain the temperature. Signs:

• 🚪 The door does not close tightly.
• 💧 There is condensation on the walls of the refrigerator.
• ❄️ There is excess ice in the freezer (the compressor is working hard).

How to check: take a sheet paper, close the door and try to remove the sheet. If it comes out easily, the seal is leaking. Clean it with soapy water or replace it.

3.2. Checking the thermostat

The thermostat (or thermostat) controls the temperature in the refrigerator. If it's broken:

• 🌡️ The compressor turns on rarely or does not turn off.
• 🥶 The freezer is too cold (food is frozen).
• 🔥 The refrigerator is warm.

How to check: find the thermostat knob (usually inside refrigerator compartment) and turn it to maximum cooling. If the compressor does not turn on within 5–10 minutes, the thermostat is faulty.

3.3. Checking the fan (for No Frost)

If the fan does not work:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the back panel in the freezer (usually it is secured with latches or screws).
3. Check if it is blocking ice blades If so, defrost the refrigerator.
4. Twist the blades by hand: if they do not rotate freely, the fan is broken.

Attention: do not try to disassemble the fan yourself - this may damage the blades.

4. What to do if the refrigerator does not cool, but the freezer is working?

Depending on the diagnosis, the actions will be different. We have collected solutions for the most common cases.

4.1. Defrosting (for No Frost)

If the problem is icing on the evaporator:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the mains.
2. Remove all food and shelves.
3. Leave the doors open for 12-24 hours (the ice should melt completely).
4. Wipe the internal surfaces with a dry cloth.
5. Turn on the refrigerator and check the operation after 2-3 hours.

If after defrosting the problem returns within a week, it is faulty defrost heating element or defrost timer.

4.2. Replacing the thermostat

The thermostat is a relatively inexpensive part (from 500 to 2000 rubles depending on the model). You can replace it yourself:

1. Turn off the refrigerator.
2. Remove the temperature control knob (usually it is removed by pulling towards you).
3. Unscrew the mounting panel and remove the thermostat.
4. Disconnect the wires (take a photo of their location!).
5. Install a new thermostat and connect the wires.

Important: for models with electronic control (for example, Bosch KGE39XW2AR or Samsung RB37J5200) you need an original thermostat - analogues may not be suitable.

4.3. Cleaning the capillary tube

This is a complex procedure that is best left to a specialist. However, if you are confident in your abilities:

• 🔧 You will need gas burner, pressure gauge a vacuum pump.
• 🔥 The tube is heated with a burner to melt the blockage.
• 💨 Then the system is vacuumed and filled with new freon.

⚠️ Attention: if soldering is incorrect, the tube can be damaged, which will lead to freon leakage. If you do not have experience, do not take risks.

4.4. Replacing the No Frost fan

The fan is inexpensive (from 800 rubles), and you can replace it yourself:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator.
2. Remove the back panel in the freezer.
3. Disconnect the power connector fan.
4. Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the old fan.
5. Install a new one and connect the power.

Tip: before purchasing a fan, check its model (usually indicated on the sticker). For refrigerators Atlant and Indesit universal models are suitable, and for Samsung or LG the original may be required.

5. When to call a professional: 3 cases when amateur work is dangerous

Not all breakdowns can be repaired with your own hands. There are situations when the intervention of an unqualified person can aggravate the problem or even lead to fire or freon leak.

⚠️ Attention: if you suspect a freon leak (the compressor works, but does not cool, there are oil pipes stains), DO NOT attempt to repair the refrigerator yourself. Freon is toxic and explosive if handled incorrectly.

Call a technician if:

1. Soldering of pipes is required (clogged capillary, freon leak).
2. The compressor is faulty (buzzes, but does not start, or works intermittently).
3. The electronics are broken (the display shows an error, the refrigerator does not respond to settings).

The cost of a technician’s visit in Moscow and the regions:

Tip: before calling a technician, check whether he works with your refrigerator model. For example, equipment Liebherr or Miele may require special spare parts.

6. Prevention: how to avoid problems with cooling?

For the refrigerator to work stably, follow these rules:

• 🧊 Defrost the refrigerator with No Frost once every 6-12 months (despite the automatic system).
• 🚪 Check the door seal every 3 months —clean it of crumbs and grease.
• 🌡️ Do not place the refrigerator next to the stove or radiator (minimum distance is 50 cm).
• 🔌 Connect the refrigerator via voltage stabilizer (especially in rural areas).
• 🍎 Do not load the refrigerator with food to capacity - this disrupts air circulation.

Important for No Frost: if you are leaving for a long time (for example, on vacation), do not turn off the refrigerator. In a system without freon, condensation may form, which will lead to corrosion of the tubes. It is better to leave it running in Holiday (if available) or at minimum power.

7. Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to use a refrigerator if the freezer is working but the refrigerator is not?

Short-term (1-2 days) - yes, but with reservations:

• Store perishable foods (meat, fish, milk) in freezer.
• Do not open the refrigerator door unless necessary.
• If the compressor is running non-stop, turn off the refrigerator to avoid overheating.

Prolonged operation in this mode will lead to compressor failure.

Why after defrosting, the refrigerator does not cool, but the freezer is working?

Probable reasons:

• Faulty defrost heating element (ice forms again after a few days).
• Broken defrost timer (does not include heating element).
• Clogged drainage system (water does not drain, ice forms).

Solution: replacement of the faulty part is required.

How much does the repair cost if the refrigerator is warm and the freezer is cold?

The cost depends on the reason:

• Replacing the thermostat: 1500–3000 ₽.
• Replacing the fan: 2000–3500 ₽.
• Cleaning the capillary tube: 3000–5000 ₽.
• Eliminating freon leaks: 3500–7000 ₽.

If the refrigerator is more than 10 years old, repairs may be unprofitable - compare the cost with the price of new equipment.

Can a refrigerator not cool due to power surges?

Yes, but indirectly. Power surges most often damage:

• Electronic control unit (the refrigerator does not turn on or works chaotically).
• Compressor (does not start, buzzes).
• Thermostat (reads the temperature incorrectly).

Solution: connect the refrigerator via stabilizer voltage (for example, Resanta ACH-1000/1-C or Calm IS1000).

What to do if the refrigerator Atlant does not cool, but the freezer freezes?

For refrigerators Atlant (especially models MHM-1708, MXM-2835) are characterized by:

• Clogged capillary tube (due to low-quality freon in older models).
• Failure of the thermostat K-59 or TAM-133.
• Icing of the evaporator (in models with No Frost).

Solution:

1. Defreeze the refrigerator for 24 hours.
2. Check the thermostat (turn the knob - there should be a click).
3. If it doesn’t help, call a technician to clean the system.