Why the top of the refrigerator does not cool: reasons and repair methods

Have you noticed that the upper chamber of the refrigerator has stopped cooling, but the lower chamber is working normally? Or vice versa - the freezer below is functioning, but the refrigerator compartment on the top shelf does not maintain the desired temperature? This problem occurs both in two-chamber models Samsung No Frost, LG Inverterand in classic refrigerators Atlant or Indesit with a drip system. Most often, faults in the refrigerant circulation system are to blame, but sometimes it is a matter of banal operating errors.

In this article we will look 7 main reasonswhy the top of the refrigerator does not cool, but the bottom works. You will learn how to independently diagnose a breakdown (even without special tools), when you can get by with a simple adjustment, and in which cases you will need to call a technician. We will pay special attention to models with the system No Frost —their design differs from classic refrigerators, and they have their own “weak points.”

We’ll warn you right away: if the problem is related to a freon leak or compressor failure, repairing it yourself is impossible. But in 60% of cases, clogged fan, faulty temperature sensor or incorrect settings are to blame - and this can be fixed without a service center.

1. Clogged ventilation system (No Frost)

In refrigerators with a system No Frost (for example, Samsung RB37J5240SA, LG GA-B489YVQZ) a fan is responsible for cooling the upper chamber, which drives cold air from the evaporator. If it stops working or its blades are blocked by ice/dust, the top of the refrigerator overheats, and the bottom continues to freeze.

Signs of clogging:

• 🔊 A characteristic noise (humming) from the back of the refrigerator, but air does not circulate.
• ❄️ Ice on the back wall of the upper chamber (even if the model is No Frost).
• 🌡️ The temperature in the refrigerator compartment is +10°C and above, and in the freezer -18°C.

To check the fan:

1. Turn off the refrigerator from the network.
2. Remove the back panel in the upper chamber (usually secured with latches or screws).
3. Check whether the fan rotates when turned on (you can gently twist the blades by hand - if there is play or resistance, the part is worn out).
4. Make sure that there is no ice or debris.

Remove ice with a hairdryer (cold mode!) or a plastic spatula|Wipe the blades with alcohol to remove dust|Check the fan bearing for wear|Lubricate the shaft with silicone grease (if the play is minimal)-->

If the fan does not spin even after cleaning, it will have to be replaced. The average cost of a part for popular models is from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles. The service center will charge another 2,000–4,000 rubles for the work.

2. Temperature sensor malfunction

The temperature sensor (thermostat or thermistor) transmits data about the current climate in the chamber to the control board. If it fails, the refrigerator “thinks” that it is already cold enough in the upper chamber and does not turn on the cooling. At the same time, the freezer works normally, since it has its own separate sensor.

How to recognize a sensor failure:

• 📉 The temperature in the refrigerator compartment rises to +15...+20°C, but the compressor almost does not turn on.
• 🔄 The refrigerator may suddenly turn off or turn on too often (every 5–10 minutes).
• 🛠️ An error appears on the display (for example, Er FF at Samsung or E1 at Indesit).

You can check the sensor with a multimeter:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network.
2. Find the sensor (usually it is located next to the light lamp or on the back wall).
3. Disconnect the connector and measure the resistance:
   • At room temperature (+20°C) the resistance should be ~5–7 kOhm.
   • If you lower the sensor into a glass of cold water (+5°C), the resistance will increase to ~20–30 kOhm.

If the readings do not change or the sensor is “broken,” it needs to be replaced.

In refrigerators with electronic control (for example, Samsung Family Hub), a faulty sensor can cause errors Er DS or Er FSIf the error remains after replacing the sensor, the problem is in. control board.

3. Freon leakage or clogged capillary tube

If the upper chamber does not cool and the freezer is running “weary” (the compressor is constantly humming), it is possible refrigerant leak or clogging of the capillary tube. does not enter the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber, and it stops cooling.

Signs of a leak/clogging:

• 🔊 The compressor runs without stopping, but the upper chamber is warm.
• 🧊 The condenser (grid at the back of the refrigerator) is cold or barely warm.
• 💧 Oil on the floor under the refrigerator (a sign of damage to the circuit).

It is impossible to eliminate the leak yourself - special equipment is required for vacuuming and refilling freon. But you can check for a blockage:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and defrost it for 12-24 hours.
2. After turning it on, listen to how the compressor works:
   • If it turns on and immediately turns off (relay clicking), it is likely blockage.
   • If it works continuously, but there is no cold, there is a freon leak.

⚠️ Attention: If you suspect a freon leak, do not try to repair the refrigerator yourself. Freon is toxic, and incorrect filling can lead to an explosion of the compressor.

4. Failure of the compressor or start relay

In two-chamber refrigerators it is usually installed one compressor (for example, in models Biryusa 140 or Pozytron KR-105), which cools both chambers in turn. If it fails, first the refrigerator compartment stops working (since the freezer has priority), and then the freezer.

Symptoms of a compressor failure:

• 🔇 The refrigerator does not turn on at all. (no motor noise).
• 🔥 The compressor heats up, but does not start (relay clicks are heard).
• ⚡ The protection is triggered (the machine in the control panel knocks out when turned on).

You can check the compressor like this:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network.
2. Remove the back cover (at the bottom where the compressor is located).
3. Test the windings with a multimeter:
   • Resistance between contacts C-S i C-M should be ~20–40 Ohm.
   • If resistance 0 Ohm (short circuit) or ∞ (open), the compressor is faulty.

Check the start relay (small box on the compressor) - it often “sticks” or burns out.

The cost of a new compressor is from 5,000 to 15,000 rubles (depending on the model). Replacement costs 3,000–6,000 rubles. If the refrigerator is more than 10 years old, it is more advisable to buy a new one.

What to do if the compressor hums but does not start?

Most likely, the starting relay or capacitor has burned out. Try lightly tapping the relay with a screwdriver (sometimes the contacts “stick”). If this does not help, replace the relay - it costs 500–1,500 rubles.

5. Incorrect settings or operating mode

Sometimes the upper chamber does not cool due to simple errors in the settings. For example:

• 🌡️ The mode is set Super Freeze (intensive freezing), and all the cold goes into the freezer.
• ❄️ The mode is turned on Vacation (in some models Beko or Gorenje it turns off the refrigerator compartment).
• 🔄 Air flows are incorrectly distributed (in models with Multi Air Flow).

How to check the settings:

1. Press the Mode or Settings button on the control panel.
2. Make sure the mode Super Cool/Super Freeze is disabled.
3. Check the target temperature - in the refrigerator the chamber should be +4...+6°C.
4. If there is a function Air Flow, make sure that the dampers are open.

In refrigerators Samsung with a display, the path to the temperature settings: Menu → Fridge → Temp Control.

B models LG: Settings → Cooling → Fridge Temp.

⚠️ Attention: In some refrigerators (for example, Liebherr), the mode PartyMode turns off the cooling of the upper chamber to save energy. Check if it is activated accidentally.

6. doors

If the rubber seal on the refrigerator door is worn out or dirty, warm air gets inside and the temperature rises. However, the freezer continues to work normally, since its seal is usually in better condition (the door is opened less often).

How to check the seal:

• 📏 Insert a sheet of paper between the door and the body - if it falls out, the seal is not airtight.
• 🔍 Inspect the rubber band for cracks, tears or deformation.
• 🧽 Check for grease or sticky deposits on the seal (they interfere tight fit).

What to do:

1. Clean the seal with soapy water and dry.
2. If the rubber band is deformed, try restoring its shape with a hairdryer (heat to 60–70°C and press the door for 10 minutes).
3. If the seal is torn, replace it. The average cost is 1,000–2,500 rubles.

In models with magnetic seal (for example, Bosch KAN92VI30R), the magnet loses strength over time. In this case, only replacement will help. data-i="196">magnetic seal

7. Drainage system clogged

In refrigerators with a drip defrosting system (for example, Atlant MXM 1705 or Indesit DF 5200), condensate flows down the back wall into the drainage hole. water accumulates at the bottom of the chamber and then freezes, blocking air circulation. As a result, the top shelf stops cooling.

Signs of clogged drainage:

• 💦 Puddle under fruit boxes.
• ❄️ Ice at the bottom of the refrigerator compartment.
• 🌬️ Weak air flow from the fan (in models with No Frost).

How to clean the drainage:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and remove all shelves.
2. Find the drainage hole (usually at the bottom of the back wall).
3. Clean it with a cotton swab or wire.
4. Rinse the system with warm water and soda (you can use a syringe).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about the top of the refrigerator not working

Is it possible to charge freon yourself if the top chamber does not cool?

No. Charging freon requires special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure manifold) and certified refrigerant. Incorrect charging can lead to a compressor explosion or poisoning (freon is toxic).

Why in the refrigerator No Frost the upper chamber does not cool, but the fan does not cool. is it working?

Probably faulty heater. evaporator (defrosting heating element). Because of this, the evaporator freezes and cold air does not enter the chamber. The heating element needs to be replaced - the part costs 1,000–2,500 rubles.

Refrigerator LG with an inverter compressor - the top does not freeze, but the bottom works. What's the matter?

In inverter models, inverter module (the control board) often fails. Diagnostics is only possible in the service - a check with an oscilloscope is required.

After defrosting, the upper chamber stopped cooling. What should I do?

It was probably damaged during defrosting. temperature sensor or wiring (for example, if you used sharp objects to remove ice). Check the integrity of the wires and the resistance of the sensor with a multimeter.

In the refrigerator Atlant the upper chamber is warm, but the freezer is working. Could the thermostat be to blame?

Yes, in models Atlant the mechanical thermostat often fails (for example, K-59You can replace it yourself - the part costs 600–1,200 rubles). adjust the new thermostat.