Owners of Soviet-made refrigeration equipment or early imported models are often faced with a question regarding a strange plastic tray located directly above the compressor or in the bottom body parts. This element, which is commonly called a pallet, is not at all a random structural addition or a place for storing small items. Its presence is dictated by the features of the defrosting system, which was used in the units before the introduction of ubiquitous systems No Frost.
Understanding the purpose of this part is critical for the proper operation of the equipment, since ignoring its functions can lead to leaks on the floor and damage to the floor covering. In older models, the process of ice melting occurs naturally or requires manual intervention, and it is this tray that takes on the main flow of water. Without it, servicing the refrigerator would turn into a constant struggle with puddles in the kitchen.
In addition, the design of this element directly affects the temperature regime of the motor-compressor. Water flowing into the pan does not just accumulate there, it participates in the heat exchange process, cooling the hot parts of the unit. Therefore, the condition and integrity of this part directly correlates with the energy efficiency and service life of the entire device.
Main function: collecting melt water during defrosting
The main task performed by evaporation panis to collect condensate and melt water formed on the walls of the freezer and refrigerator compartments. In old refrigerators, such as ZIL, Biryusa or early models Indesit, the moisture removal system is implemented by gravity. Water flows through special grooves inside the housing and enters this container.
The process occurs cyclically. When the refrigerator is running, a “coat” of ice builds up on the evaporator. In models with a drip defrosting system (“crying evaporator”), defrosting occurs automatically during compressor stops. In units with manual defrosting, water appears only after the user turns off the device and opens the doors. In both cases, the pan serves as a buffer zone that prevents moisture from leaking out.
It is important to note that the volume of this tank was calculated by engineers taking into account the average amount of moisture generated per cycle. If you notice that the water is overflowing, this is a signal that the drainage system is faulty or that the defrosting process did not go according to plan. In normal operation, the water from the sump should have time to evaporate before the next accumulation cycle.
Natural evaporation system and compressor cooling
Many users mistakenly believe that water from the sump must be manually poured out regularly. However, in most older models, the design provides for its natural evaporation. The pan is installed directly above the compressor motor, the hottest component of the refrigerator. The thermal energy released by the running engine is transferred to the metal bottom of the tray. motor-compressor - the hottest part of the refrigerator. The thermal energy released by the running engine is transferred to the metal bottom of the tray.
Thanks to this heat, the water in the container gradually heats up and turns into a gaseous state, escaping into the kitchen atmosphere. This process is fully automated and does not require human intervention. Moreover, a double effect is realized here: the water disappears, and the compressor receives additional cooling, which is especially important in the hot season or when there is intense load on the equipment.
The efficiency of evaporation depends on several factors, including the temperature in the room and the serviceability of the compressor itself. If the engine runs rough or doesn't get hot enough, the water may not have time to evaporate, causing an overflow. The speed of the process is also affected by the surface area of the water and the air humidity in the room.
⚠️ Attention: If you find that the pan is overfilled and water is leaking onto the floor, under no circumstances tilt the operating refrigerator sharply from side to side, trying to splash water. This can lead to refrigerant or oil entering the circulation system, which will cause blockage of the capillary tube and failure of the unit.
There is a common misconception that the absence of water in the pan is a sign of failure. In fact, if the tray is dry, this may indicate that the evaporation system is working well or, conversely, that the drainage hole is clogged, which is why the water simply does not reach its destination. Diagnostics requires a careful examination of the drainage channels.
Design features and materials of manufacture
Trays in old refrigerators were made taking into account the aggressive environment and temperature changes. Most often heat-resistant plastic or painted steel was used. Plastic models are more resistant to corrosion, but can become brittle over time. Metal trays coated with enamel are stronger, but if the coating is chipped, they quickly rust, which can lead to holes and leaks.
The shape of the tray also matters. It can be solid, welded or riveted to the body, or removable. In models like Atlant or Sviyaga there were often removable structures that could be removed for washing. Mounting was usually carried out on brackets above the compressor or in a niche in the base of the refrigerator.
The dimensions of the container vary depending on the volume of the refrigeration chamber. The larger the freezer, the more ice freezes on its walls, and the larger the tank for collecting melt water should be. Engineers calculated the volume so that it could accommodate all the ice formed during one complete defrost, with a small margin.
Typical malfunctions and causes of leaks
Despite the simplicity of the design, the main problems of old refrigerators are often associated with the tray, expressed in the appearance of puddles on the floor. The most common reason is clogging of the drainage hole. Food crumbs, mold, slime, or pieces of ice can clog the channel that drains water into the tray. As a result, water overflows over the edge of the inner funnel and flows along the outer wall of the case.
The second common problem is a violation of the horizontal position of the refrigerator. If the unit is tilted forward or to the side, water may not flow into the drain hole, but may spread along the bottom of the freezer. When the door is opened, this volume of water pours out, creating the illusion that the tray is broken, although the problem lies in the installation.
The third reason is mechanical damage to the tray itself. Plastic dries out and cracks over time, especially if hot water gets into it during accelerated defrosting. The metal is susceptible to corrosion. Through rust or a crack causes water to drip directly onto the compressor or onto the floor, bypassing the evaporation stage.
Hidden reasons for the smell from the pan
If the refrigerator or the floor next to it smells like dampness or sewage, check the pan. Stagnant water is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and mold. Sometimes the odor is not caused by the water itself, but by organic debris trapped in the drainage. Regularly flushing the drainage system with a solution of soda or citric acid helps eliminate the problem.
Instructions for cleaning and maintaining the drainage system
To ensure long service life of the refrigerator and prevent leaks, it is necessary to periodically service the water drainage system. Cleaning the pan and drainage is a simple procedure, but requires following a sequence of actions. Neglect of hygiene can lead not only to puddles, but also to the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the kitchen.
Before starting any work, the refrigerator must be de-energized. This is a safety requirement as you will be working near electrical components and water. After defrosting and removing the products, you can begin servicing.
☑️ Checklist for tray maintenance
The cleaning process begins with inspecting the drainage hole inside the refrigerator compartment. It can be carefully cleaned with a special brush, a cotton swab or soft wire. Do not use sharp metal objects to avoid damaging the plastic walls of the canal. After cleaning, it is recommended to pour a little warm water into the hole to make sure that it flows freely into the pan.
The pan itself also needs care. If it is removable, it is better to dismantle it, wash it with detergent and dry it thoroughly. Fixed structures are wiped with a rag, trying to remove all silt and plaque from the bottom. Pay special attention to the area above the compressor, where dust accumulates, which, when heated, can begin to smell unpleasant.
Comparison of water collection systems in different models
The evolution of refrigeration technology has led to a change in the approach to condensate disposal. If in old models everything is tied to gravity and evaporation, then modern systems offer more complex solutions. Understanding the difference helps to properly maintain equipment of different generations.
| Characteristics | Old refrigerators (ZIL, Biryusa) | Modern models (No Frost) | Modern drip systems |
|---|---|---|---|
| Location tray | Above the compressor or in the plinth | Above the compressor (often hidden) | Above the compressor |
| Water source | Manual or semi-automatic defrosting | Automatic defrosting of the evaporator | Automatic defrosting of the rear wall |
| The need to drain | Only in case of breakage or blockage | Not required (complete evaporation) | Not required |
| Risk of leaks | High (human factor) | Medium (drainage blockage) | Medium (drainage freezing) |
In modern models No Frost a pan is also present, but water comes into it from the evaporator located behind the rear panel. There is a heating element installed there, which turns on regularly and melts the ice. The volume of water there is less, but it flows regularly. The principle of evaporation due to the heat of the compressor remains the same.
However, in older units, the volume of water entering the pan at one time can be much larger (several liters), so the requirements for tightness and drainage capacity are higher. That is why owners of old equipment should be more attentive to the condition of the seals and the tilt of the body.
What to do if the tray is damaged or lost
The situation when the plastic tray is torn or rusted through is not fatal, although it requires a prompt solution. It is impossible to operate a refrigerator with a holey pan, as water will flow onto the electrical parts of the compressor, which creates a risk of short circuit and corrosion of metal tubes.
If it is impossible to find a spare part (which often happens with discontinued models), you can make a replacement yourself. For this, food grade plastic or stainless steel is used. The main thing is to maintain the dimensions and ensure reliable fastening. It is critical that the replacement material withstands the heating temperature of the compressor (up to 70-80°C) and does not deform.
A temporary solution can be to install a wide flat container under the water drainage area, if the design of the refrigerator allows it. However, this will require regular manual draining of the water, which is inconvenient. A more radical method is to take the drainage tube outside the body into a bucket, but this violates the aesthetics and requires laying a hose.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it necessary to specifically pour water into the tray when installing the refrigerator for the first time?
No, this is not necessary. The pan will be filled with condensate and melt water during natural operation. Artificial addition of water will not speed up the operation of the system and is not required to start it.
Why does the water in the pan not evaporate completely?
There may be several reasons: too high humidity in the room, low temperature in the room (in winter), a malfunction of the compressor (it does not heat up) or an excessive amount of incoming moisture due to a leak. cameras.
Is it possible to remove the tray completely if it is in the way?
It is strictly not recommended. Without a pan, water will spill onto the floor and electrical equipment. This will lead to damage to the floor covering and can cause a short circuit or fire.
How to understand that the pan is cracked if it is inside the case?
Signs may be: water on the floor under the refrigerator with intact drainage pipes, increased corrosion on the bottom of the case, the appearance of rusty spots inside the chamber in the lower part. The technician will make an accurate diagnosis during partial disassembly.
Is it harmful for the compressor if the pan is empty?
The absence of water in the pan does not directly harm the compressor, but indicates that the moisture removal system is not working or condensation is not forming in the refrigerator (which is also suspicious). The dry pan itself is not the cause of failure, but requires checking the drainage.