The situation when a refrigerator Pozis stops freezing in the upper compartment is familiar to many owners of this equipment. Owners often notice that the food in the freezer is still at temperature, but the top shelf is already warm, or the compressor is running non-stop, trying to achieve the desired values. This behavior of the unit indicates a failure in the refrigerant circulation system or a malfunction of the control electronics.
Ignoring the problem can lead to complete damage to the products and failure of an expensive compressor. In this article we will examine in detail why The Pozis refrigerator does not freeze the upper chamberhow to carry out the initial diagnosis and in which cases the intervention of a professional technician will be required. Understanding the principles of operation of your model will help you avoid unnecessary costs.
Primary diagnostics: excluding household causes
Before you panic and call a technician, you need to eliminate basic operating errors, which are often mistaken for a breakdown. Sometimes the reason lies in simple overload or incorrect placement of products. If you have just placed a large amount of warm food in the chamber, temperature conditions it may have gone astray, and the system needs time to recover.
Check the tightness of the sealing rubber. If the door does not close tightly, warm air constantly enters the chamber, and the refrigerator simply cannot cope with its cooling. It is also worth paying attention to the operating mode: perhaps the “Super Freeze” mode was accidentally activated or, conversely, the cooling of the upper chamber was turned off in models with separate controls.
Make sure that the ventilation holes inside the chamber are not blocked by dishes or bags. Air circulation is a key factor for even distribution of cold.
⚠️ Attention: If you find that the rubber door seal is deformed or dirty, do not use sharp objects for cleaning - this can damage the structure of the material and worsen the loss of tightness.
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the most common reasons why Pozis refrigerator the cold does not pick up in the upper compartment is a malfunction of the thermostat. It is this component that is responsible for turning the compressor on and off depending on the temperature inside the chambers. If the thermostat is “stuck” in the “Off” position or transmits incorrect data to the control module, the compressor may not start at all or work too little.
In modern models with electronic control, instead of a mechanical thermostat, temperature sensors (NTC thermistors) are used. The failure of one of them leads to the fact that the “brains” of the refrigerator receive false information that the cold has already been reached and turn off the cooling. Diagnostics of such elements requires the use of a multimeter to measure resistance.
Symptoms of a faulty thermostat or sensor are often:
- ❄️ The compressor does not turn on at all, although the chamber is warm.
- ❄️ The refrigerator operates continuously, but the temperature does not drop below +10°C.
- ❄️ Freezing of the “fur coat” in only one corner of the chamber or complete absence of frost.
- ❄️ Chaotic turning on and off of the unit at short intervals.
Replacing a mechanical thermostat is a procedure that can be done with your own hands if you have basic skills. However, replacing electronic sensors in models with a system No Frost or Low Frost often requires partial disassembly of the housing and evaporator.
How to check a thermostat with a multimeter?
To check, you need to remove the thermostat, immerse its sensitive tube in a container of ice water (temperature about 0°C) and ring the contacts. If there is no resistance or it does not change during heating/cooling, the part is faulty.
Malfunctions of the defrost system in No Frost and Low Frost models
If your Posis is equipped with an automatic defrosting system, then the problem with the lack of cold in the upper chamber often lies in the “overgrowing” of the evaporator ice. In such models, cold air is forced by a fan from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment. If the evaporator is covered with an ice crust, the airflow (air flow) is blocked, and the cold simply does not reach the upper shelves.
Three main elements are responsible for the defrosting process: heating element (heating element), defrost sensor and timer (or electronic control module). Failure of any of them leads to the fact that the ice does not melt, accumulates and blocks the channels.
Signs of a failure in the defrost system:
- 🧊 A thick layer of ice or a snow coat is visible on the back wall of the freezer.
- 🧊 The fan is humming, but air does not blow from the holes or blows barely noticeably.
- 🧊 After completely defrosting the refrigerator (for 24 hours), it begins to freeze normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returns.
For diagnostics, you need to remove the back panel in the freezer and visually assess the condition of the evaporator. If it is completely covered in ice and the fan is standing still, the problem is in the defrost circuit. It often burns out on its own defrost heating element or the sensor contacts oxidize.
⚠️ Attention: When defrosting the No Frost system, it is strictly forbidden to use a hair dryer with hot air or a knife to chop ice. This can lead to damage to plastic parts or, worse, to breakdown of the evaporator tubes, which will cause a freon leak.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Freon leak and problems with the compressor
The most serious reason why The Pozis refrigerator does not freeze neither in the upper nor in the lower chamber (or freezes slightly) is a refrigerant leak. Freon circulates in a closed loop, and if a microcrack appears in the tubes, the gas evaporates. Without a sufficient amount of refrigerant, heat exchange is impossible.
Often a leak occurs in the foamed part of the body or at the place where the tubes are welded. An indirect sign may be swelling of the side walls of the refrigerator or the appearance of rust at the joints. Also, the problem may lie in the compressor itself: if it hums but does not start (or starts for a couple of seconds and clicks), the winding may have burned out or the mechanism is jammed.
Table of main symptoms and probable causes:
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is silent, there is no light | No power, the relay is burned out | Low |
| Humming, but not freezing | Freon leak, blockage | High |
| Clicks and turns off | Start-protection relay or compressor is faulty | Medium |
| It freezes slightly, the condenser is cold | Lack of freon | High |
If a leak is diagnosed, simply refilling with freon is not enough. The technician must find the leak, fix it, and only then refill the system. If the evaporator inside the foamed housing is damaged, repair may not be economically feasible.
Clogged capillary system
Another technical malfunction leading to a lack of cold is a clogged capillary tube. Inside the freon circulation system there is a very narrow section - a capillary. If moisture, dirt or oxidation products get into the system, an ice or debris plug forms in this place.
When clogged, the compressor works, trying to pump freon, but the circulation is disrupted. The pressure in the system increases, and the cooling capacity drops to zero. A characteristic sign may be overheating of the compressor (it is hot to the touch) with a cold condenser (grid at the back or on the sides).
To eliminate the blockage you need:
- 🔧 Cut off the capillary tube and flush the system with nitrogen under high pressure.
- 🔧 Replace the filter drier, which is guaranteed to be clogged with moisture and dirt.
- 🔧 Evacuate the system and fill with new freon.
This procedure requires professional equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station, nitrogen cylinder) and cannot be performed at home conditions without the risk of permanently damaging the equipment.
When you need to call a technician and preventive maintenance
If after checking the thermostat, defrosting and assessing the condition of the seal, the problem is not solved, most likely, qualified repairs are required. Independent intervention in the freon circulation system is dangerous and difficult. It is also worth contacting a specialist if you hear extraneous knocks, a burning smell, or see that the compressor is operating in emergency mode.
To extend the life of your Pozisu and avoid situations when it stops freezing, follow simple rules of prevention. Clean the drainage hole regularly (if it’s a drip model), keep the back of the condenser clean, and don’t put hot foods inside.
Remember that timely maintenance is cheaper than replacing the compressor or buying a new refrigerator. If you notice the first signs of incorrect operation, do not wait for a complete breakdown.
⚠️ Attention: The characteristics and location of components may vary depending on the specific model and year of manufacture. Always check the technical documentation or official diagrams for your device before starting disassembly.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator with a malfunction?
Short-term - yes, but you cannot keep food warm for a long time. However, operation with a freon leak can lead to the combustion of the compressor, since it will work without stopping due to wear and tear.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why did the Pozis refrigerator work after defrosting, but after a week stopped freezing again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system in models No Frost. Ice has again accumulated on the evaporator and is blocking the air passages. The heating element, defrost sensor or timer has burned out. Diagnostics and replacement of the defective part are required.
How long should the refrigerator cool down after the first turn on?
Usually it takes from 2 to 6 hours to reach operating temperature, depending on the volume of the chambers and the ambient temperature in the room. If after 10-12 hours of compressor operation the upper chamber is warm, this is a malfunction.
Is it possible to replace the thermostat on a Pozis refrigerator yourself?
If the thermostat is mechanical and accessible (located inside the chamber or in the lampshade), its replacement is simple: disconnect the wires, remove the old tube, insert a new one. If the thermostat is built into a foamed part or an electronic module, it is better to entrust this to a specialist.
What does it mean if the compressor is hot and its tubes are cold?
This may indicate a clogged capillary system or a lack of freon. In normal operation, the suction tube should be slightly cool and the discharge tube should be slightly hot. If the temperature difference is not maintained, the cycle is broken.