The refrigerator does not freeze: causes of the malfunction and what to do

Did you open the refrigerator, and the food in the freezer melted, or did the temperature in the main compartment even rise to room temperature? The situation when the refrigerator not freezingbut can continue to work (buzz, indicators light up) occurs often. The reasons can be simple - for example, a door that is not tightly closed, or serious - a compressor breakdown or a refrigerant leak.

In this article we will look at why the refrigerator stopped freezing, and also give step-by-step instructions for diagnosing and troubleshooting. You will learn when you can handle it yourself, and in what cases all possible reasonswhy the refrigerator stopped freezing, and we will also give step-by-step instructions for diagnosing and troubleshooting problems. You will learn when you can cope on your own and when required you will need to call a specialist. We will pay special attention to models with the system No Frost, since their breakdowns often have specific symptoms.

Before starting repairs, check the obvious points: is the refrigerator connected to the network, have the lights been turned off? home, whether the outlet is overloaded (for example, through an extension cord with several powerful appliances). If everything is in order, read on.

1. Violation of tightness: why the refrigerator does not freeze from behind the door

One ​​of the most common reasons is poor fit of the door. Even a small gap of 1–2 mm leads to a constant supply of warm air, which is why the compressor works without stopping, but does not have time to cool the chambers to the desired temperature.

How to check the tightness:

• 🔍 Visual inspection: close the door and shine a flashlight along seal. If light is visible, there is a gap.
• 📏 Test with paper: place a sheet of paper between the seal and the body. If it falls out or is easily pulled out, the seal is worn out.
• 🧊 Ice on walls: in models with a drip defrosting system (Indesit, Atlant) if the seal is poor, a thick layer of ice forms on the back wall.

If the seal is damaged (torn, deformed or lost elasticity), it must be replaced. To do this:

1. Remove the old seal by carefully prying it with a screwdriver (usually it is attached with screws or glue).
2. Order a new one according to the model of the refrigerator (for example, for Samsung RL-34 the original one is suitable DA97-08006A).
3. Install a new seal, starting from upper corners, and heat it with a hairdryer for a better fit.

2. Breakdown of the thermostat or thermostat

Thermostat (or thermostat) is temperature sensorthat sends a signal to the compressor to turn on/off. If it breaks down, the refrigerator can:

• ❄️ Stop freezing completely (the compressor does not turn on).
• 🔥 Work without stops, but does not cool (the thermostat is “stuck” in the “on” position).
• 🌡️ Incorrect display of temperature on the display (in models with electronic control, for example, LG DoorCooling+).

How to check the thermostat:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the thermostat protective cover (usually it is located inside the chamber or on the top panel).
2. Find two wires going to the thermostat and short them together (use a piece of wire with stripped ends).
3. If after this the compressor starts working, the thermostat is faulty and requires replacement.

How to find the thermostat in a No Frost refrigerator?

In models with a system No Frost (for example, Bosch KGE39XW2AR), the thermostat is often hidden behind the back panel of the freezer. It can be identified by a plastic box with a tube leading to the evaporator.

The cost of a new thermostat is from 800 to 3,000 rubles, depending on the model. To replace it, it is better to invite a specialist, since a soldering iron and knowledge of the connection diagram are required.

3. Freon leakage: signs and what to do

If the refrigerator does not freeze, but the compressor works without stopping and is very hot - with there is a 90% chance of a refrigerant (freon) leak. This is one of the most serious breakdowns, since without freon the cooling system cannot function.

Causes of the leak:

• 🛠️ Mechanical damage to the circuit (for example, when moving the refrigerator or careless defrosting).
• 🕳️ Corrosion of tubes (often found in old models ZIL, Minsk).
• 🔧 Depressurization after poor-quality repairs (for example, when replacing a compressor).

How to diagnose a leak:

• The compressor works, but the refrigerator does not cool.
• The condenser (grid on the rear wall) remains cold.
• An oily spot may appear at the leak site (freon is mixed with oil from the compressor).

Repair cost:

4. Compressor malfunction: how to determine and what to do

The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator. If it breaks, the refrigerator completely stops freezing, and in some cases does not even turn on. Signs of a compressor malfunction:

• 🔇 The refrigerator does not hum (there is no sound of operation). motor).
• 🔥 The compressor housing is excessively hot (more than 90°C).
• ⚡ The protection is triggered (the machine in the panel is knocked out when turned on).
• 🕒 The compressor turns on for 1-2 seconds and immediately turns off (the starting trigger is triggered relay).

The most common causes of compressor failure:

• 🔌 Power surges in the network (especially true for summer houses and old houses).
• 🛑 Motor jamming due to wear (typical for refrigerators over 10 years old).
• 💧 Moisture entering the electrical part (for example, during defrosting).

How to check the compressor:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and remove it from the niche.
2. Remove the protective casing from the compressor (it is located at the bottom back).
3. Test the windings with a multimeter:
   • The resistance between the contacts should be in the range of 20–50 Ohms.
   • If the device shows “0” (short circuit) or “∞” (open circuit), the compressor is faulty.

If the compressor is burned out, it will have to be replaced. The cost of a new one is from 5,000 to 15,000 rubles (depending on the model). In some cases, it is cheaper to buy a new refrigerator, especially if the old one is more than 10 years old.

5. Problems with the No Frost system: why doesn’t the upper chamber freeze?

Refrigerators with the system No Frost (Samsung, LG, Liebeherr) have additional components that may fail: fan, defrost heater (TEH), timer or fuse. If it doesn’t freeze upper chamber (in models with two compressors), the problem most often lies here.

Typical breakdowns No Frost:

• 🌀 The fan does not work: the refrigerator hums, but the air does not circulate. Check whether the blades are blocked by ice or a foreign object.
• 🔥 The defrosting heating element has burned out: ice accumulates on the evaporator, and then the cooling stops working. The heating element needs to be replaced.
• ⏱️ Defrost timer failure: the system “freezes” in defrost mode. The timer or control board needs to be replaced.

How to check the fan:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and defrost it.
2. Remove the back panel in the freezer (usually it is attached to latches or self-tapping screws).
3. Try to turn the fan blades by hand. If they do not rotate or a grinding noise is heard, replacement is required.

6. Clogged capillary tube: signs and solutions

The capillary tube is a thin channel through which freon enters the evaporator. If it becomes clogged (for example, due to moisture or oil), the refrigerant cannot circulate, and the refrigerator, although the compressor is running, stops freezing. the condenser (grid at the back) remains cold. stops freezing, although the compressor is running.

Signs of a blockage:

• The compressor is hot, but the condenser (grid at the back) remains cold.
• The refrigerator freezes slightly, but does not reach the set temperature.
• You can see frost or condensation on the tubes near the compressor.

How to remove the blockage:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and defrost it for 12–24 hours.
2. If the blockage is not cleared, you will need to clean the tube with special equipment (done at a service center).
3. In some cases, the tube has to be replaced completely.

7. Electronics failure: control board, sensors, relays

Modern refrigerators (Samsung, LG, Bosch) are equipped with electronic control boards that control the operation of all systems. If the board fails, the refrigerator may:

• 📛 Not turn on at all (no indication on the display).
• 🌡️ Show an error on the screen (for example, E1, FF or OF OF y Indesit).
• 🔄 Turn off on its own after a few minutes of operation.

Frequent causes of electronics failures:

• ⚡ Voltage surges (especially if the refrigerator is not connected through a stabilizer).
• 💧 Moisture getting on the board (for example, when defrosting).
• 🛠️ Poor repair (wires are mixed up or tracks are damaged).

How to diagnose the problem:

1. Check whether the display is on. If not, the fuse on the board may have blown.
2. If not error on the screen - check its code with the instructions (for example, E4 y Atlant means a problem with the temperature sensor).
3. Ring the wires going to the board for a break.

Error codes for Samsung refrigerators

U Samsung error 5E indicates a fan malfunction, 8E a problem with the defrost sensor, and dE indicates an open door.

Board repair costs 3,000–8,000 rubles. In some cases, it is cheaper to replace it completely (the cost of a new one is from 5,000 rubles).

8. External factors: why the refrigerator does not freeze when the compressor is running

Sometimes the refrigerator does not freeze not because of a breakdown, but because of external conditions. points:

• 🌡️ High room temperature: if the room is hotter than +30°C, the compressor may not be able to cope. Normal operation is guaranteed at +16...+32°C.
• ☀️ Direct sunlight: if the refrigerator is located near the window, it overheats and the cooling efficiency drops.
• 🔌 Low voltage in the network: when the voltage is below 190 V, the compressor does not develop the required power. Use a stabilizer.
• 🧊 Overload with products: if the refrigerator is packed to capacity, air circulation is disrupted and the temperature rises.

If the refrigerator is in an unheated room (for example, in a country house in winter), it may also not freeze. Most models are designed to work. at a temperature not lower than +10°C.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about refrigerators that do not freeze

Refrigerator hums, but does not freeze - what to do?

If the compressor is working, but the refrigerator is not cooling, check:

1. The tightness of the door (the seal may be worn out).
2. The room temperature (if above +30°C, the compressor may not be able to cope).
3. The back wall for the presence of ice (if there is frost, there may be a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube).

If all else fails, call a technician to diagnose the compressor and cooling system.

Why does the No Frost refrigerator not freeze, but the freezer works?

In refrigerators with No Frost and one compressor, the cold first enters the freezer, and then through the fan into the main compartment. If the freezer freezes and the refrigerator does not, the following are possible:

• Fan failure (cold air does not blow).
• Clogged air duct. (for example, ice or food).
• Faulty damper (in models with electronic control).

Defreeze the refrigerator for 12 hours and check the operation of the fan. If the problem persists, repair is required.

Is it possible to fill the refrigerator with freon yourself?

No, refilling freon requires special equipment:

• A vacuum pump for pumping air out of the system.
• A manometer for pressure control.
• A cylinder with freon (usually used for household refrigerators R-134a or R-600a).

Incorrect refueling can lead to repeated leakage or breakdown of the compressor. Contact the service center.

How much does it cost to repair if the refrigerator does not freeze?

The cost depends on the cause of the breakdown:

Type of repair	Cost (rub.)
Replacement of seal	1 500–3 000
Replacement of thermostat	2 000–4 000
Refilling with freon	3 500–6 000
Replacement compressor	6 000–12 000
Repair of the control board	3 000–8 000

Prices do not include the cost of spare parts. Tariffs may vary in regions.

How to extend the life of the refrigerator?

To avoid breakdowns:

• Defreeze refrigerator at least once every 6 months (even if it has No Frost).
• Do not place it next to the stove, radiator or window.
• Connect through a voltage stabilizer (especially in rural areas).
• Do not overload the freezer with food to capacity.
• Regularly clean the condenser (grid at the back) from dust.