The situation when you open the refrigerator door, and it’s warm inside, the food loses its freshness, and the ice in the freezer melts, can cause panic in anyone owner. Cooling system malfunction is not just discomfort, it is the risk of spoilage of a large supply of food and the need for urgent intervention. Often, users notice the problem too late, when the products have already begun to deteriorate, ignoring the first signs, such as extraneous noise from the compressor or rare switching on of the unit.
Before calling a service center or looking for a new one LG refrigerator, Bosch or Indesit, it is worth carrying out an initial diagnosis. In more than 30% of cases, the reason lies in trivial operating errors or easily fixable breakdowns that can be fixed on your own in 15 minutes. However, if the tightness of the circuit is broken or the motor-compressor burns out, you cannot do without professional intervention, and delay can lead to complete failure of the equipment.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons, why the refrigerator does not gain temperaturehow to distinguish a software failure from a physical failure and what steps to take first. Understanding the principles of operation No Frost systems and drip defrosting will help you quickly localize the problem and save on repairs.
Violation of the rules for operating and loading chambers
The most A common reason why a refrigerator stops freezing is simple - improper loading of the chambers. If you have just returned from the supermarket and loaded two kilograms of fresh meat into the freezer, and ten liters of warm soda into the refrigerator compartment, the unit simply cannot cope with the heat load. Thermoregulator it will command the compressor to operate continuously, but the heat capacity of the products is high, and the temperature will drop very slowly or not drop at all.
In addition, it is important to follow the rules of air circulation. In modern models with the system No Frost cold air is pumped by a fan through special channels. If you tightly pack the shelves with pots and bags, blocking the outlets of the air ducts, the cold simply will not reach some areas. As a result, it may be +2°C in one corner of the chamber, and +10°C at the far wall, which will lead to spoilage of food.
It is also worth checking the tightness of the door. If a foreign object (for example, the edge of a cereal bag or a bottle label) gets between the seal and the body, a gap will form. Through it, warm air from the room constantly flows inside, and the refrigerator hums, but does not freeze, working non-stop.
⚠️ Attention: Never put hot or warm foods in the refrigerator compartment. This leads to a sharp jump in temperature, the formation of condensation on the walls and increased load on the compressor, which can shorten its service life.
For proper operation of the unit, the following rules must be observed:
- 🥩 Cool the products to room temperature before placing them in the chamber.
- 🌬️ Leave a gap 2-3 cm between the food and the back wall for air circulation.
- 🚪 Check whether the food does not interfere with the door closing tightly.
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
If the refrigerator compressor is silent or, conversely, works without stopping, but there is no cold, a failure is likely control electronics. In older models, a mechanical one is responsible for this; in modern digital refrigerators, an electronic control module and sensors are responsible for this ( thermostat, and in modern digital refrigerators there is an electronic control module and sensors (thermostats). If the sensor “lies” and shows the controller that it’s already -20°C inside, the compressor simply won’t turn on.
In electronically controlled models, the evaporator defrost sensor often fails. It is located on the evaporator in the freezer and controls the defrosting process. If it shows incorrect data, the system may not start the heating element of the heating element, which is why the evaporator becomes overgrown with ice and stops cooling. Visually it may look like a normally working compressor, but there is no cold in the chambers.
Diagnostics of the thermostat in mechanical models is simple: you need to turn the regulator knob counterclockwise until it stops. If there is no characteristic click and the compressor is silent, most likely the part is faulty. In electronic models Samsung or LG the malfunction is often displayed as an error code on the display, which can be deciphered in the instructions.
How to check the thermostat with a multimeter?
To check the mechanical thermostat, it must be dismantled. When cold, the contacts should be closed (the multimeter shows 0 ohms or beeps). If you place the sensitive tube of the thermostat in warm water, the contacts should open (infinity resistance). If the circuit does not break or close, the part needs to be replaced.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The heart of any refrigerator is motor-compressor. If it doesn't start, there won't be any cold anywhere. Often the problem lies not in the motor itself, but in the starting relay, which supplies the impulse to start. Symptoms of a relay failure: the refrigerator hums, tries to start, a click is heard, and it goes silent again. After some time, the cycle repeats.
A more serious problem is an interturn short circuit in the compressor windings or its mechanical wear. In this case, the unit may hum smoothly, but not create the necessary pressure in the system. It is difficult to check this yourself; you need to measure the current and freon pressure with a pressure gauge. If compressor it is hot to the touch, but does not pump freon, it needs to be changed.
Sometimes the compressor does not turn on due to overheating. Modern models have protection that turns off the motor at critical temperatures. Allow the appliance to cool for 2-3 hours (defrost completely and unplug), then try turning it on again. If the start-up occurred, but after a while the situation repeated itself, the problem is in the engine compartment ventilation system or in the compressor itself.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Sound character | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| Silent, no light | No power, socket burnt out | Silence | Low |
| Buzzing, clicking, does not start | Start relay, compressor jammed | Clicks, humming | Medium/High |
| Works constantly, does not freeze | Freon leak, clogged capillary | Smooth hum | High |
| On and off frequently | Thermostat faulty | Rhythmic humming | Average |
Refrigerant (freon) leak and system blockage
If you hear how the compressor works almost without interruption, but the chambers are warm, and there is no ice on the back wall of the refrigerator (inside) or it is uneven, most likely In total, there was a refrigerant leak. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack has formed in the tubes or evaporator (often due to corrosion or mechanical damage when defrosting with a knife), the gas evaporates.
Without a sufficient amount freon heat exchange does not occur. The danger of the situation is that the compressor, running idle, quickly overheats and can burn out. Signs of a leak: swelling of the refrigerator wall, oily stains (oily traces) on the tubes at the back of the unit, absence of characteristic gurgling when turned off.
Another technical problem - capillary blockage. An ice or mud blockage may have formed in the system, blocking refrigerant circulation. The symptom is similar to a leak: the compressor works, but there is no cold. It is impossible to eliminate a leak or blockage on your own: the system must be evacuated, soldered and refilled with new freon.
⚠️ Attention: If you find an oily stain under the refrigerator or on the pipes at the back, do not try to simply add freon. It is necessary to find and solder the leak, otherwise the gas will leave again in a few days or weeks.
☑️ Diagnosis of a freon leak
Failure of the fan and No Frost system
In refrigerators with a No Frost system, the fan is responsible for the distribution of cold. It forces cold air from the evaporator into the chambers. If the fan freezes or breaks, the cold remains in the technical compartment, and the refrigerator compartment is stuffy. In this case, the freezer may freeze normally (since the evaporator is located there), but the upper compartment will be warm.
A common reason for a fan stopping is ice freezing on its blades or bushing. This happens if the defrosting system (heating element, timer, sensor) does not work correctly. The ice blocks the rotation, the motor hums, but does not spin. In some models, when the fan stops, the compressor can also be turned off by a signal from the sensor.
To check the fan, you need to get to it (usually it is covered with a plastic panel in the freezer). If when the door is opened (and the door sensor is pressed, simulating closing), the fan does not start, but voltage is supplied to it, it is faulty. It is also worth checking whether ice is interfering with the rotation.
The main signs of problems with the system air circulation:
- ❄️ There is cold in the freezer, there is heat in the refrigerator compartment.
- 🌀 You can hear the fan is humming, but it does not spin.
- 🧊 A thick layer of ice or snow is visible on the back wall of the freezer.
Clogged capillary tube and other technical nuances
The capillary tube is the thinnest channel through which freon enters the evaporator Its diameter is so small that even a microscopic particle of debris remaining after installation, or oil oxidation products can cause capillary blockage. This disrupts the pressure in the system: before the blockage it is high, after it is low, and freon does not boil.
The symptoms of a blockage are similar to a leak: the compressor works, but there is not enough cold. The difference is that the condenser (grid at the back) can only be partially cold or warm. Sometimes, when clogged, the compressor can become very hot and turn off via a thermal relay.
Removing the clog requires purging the system with nitrogen under high pressure and replacing the filter drier. This is a complex procedure that requires special equipment. It is almost impossible to clean the capillary tube yourself at home without the risk of damaging other components.
When you need a technician, and when you can do it yourself
You should not immediately call a technician if the refrigerator has simply defrosted after a long transportation or overload with food. Let it sit unplugged for a few hours, then turn it back on and wait 5-6 hours. If the temperature has not returned to normal, proceed to diagnostics.
You can replace the thermostat yourself (in mechanical models), clean the drainage hole, defrost the unit, or replace the fan if you have the skills to work with tools. However, if we are talking about filling with freonsoldering tubes, replacing a compressor or repairing an electronic control module, a professional is needed here.
An attempt to independently repair a sealed circuit without experience often leads to the final breakdown of the equipment. In addition, the use of low-quality freon or oil can damage a new compressor in a matter of weeks.
Is it worth repairing an old refrigerator?
Repair is economically feasible if the cost of work and spare parts does not exceed 50-60% of the cost of a new similar refrigerator. Replacing the compressor or electronic unit in an old model is often unprofitable.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator work, but does not freeze after defrosting?
If after complete defrosting (more than 24 hours) the refrigerator does not start to freeze, there may be an ice jam left in the system, The defrost heating element burned out (if it is No Frost) or a freon leak occurred, which simply coincided with defrosting. The defrost sensor could also have failed.
Can the refrigerator stop freezing due to the heat in the room?
Yes, if the room temperature exceeds +30...+32°C, the refrigerator may not be able to cope with the heat flow. The compressor will run continuously, trying to get up to temperature, but due to overheating, the thermal protection may trip and it will shut down. In such conditions, operating efficiency decreases.
What to do if there is ice in the freezer and heat in the refrigerator?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the No Frost system: either the fan does not work, or the air supply channels are clogged with ice (defrost is faulty), or the air supply channel is clogged. You need to defrost the refrigerator and check the operation of the fan.
How to understand that the compressor has burned out?
If the compressor hums, clicks, but does not start, and it is very hot, the piston group may be jammed. If it is silent, but the starting relay is working properly and voltage is coming to it, the winding may be broken. Only checking the windings with a multimeter will give you an accurate answer.