The appearance of extraneous sounds in the operation of household appliances always causes concern for the owner, especially when it comes to such an important unit as refrigerator. If you hear clicking sounds, this can mean either a completely normal operating process or a serious breakdown that requires immediate attention. Statistics from service centers show that more than 40% of calls to technicians are related specifically to complaints about the noise of the equipment.
It is important not to panic, but to listen carefully to the nature of the sound. A short single click every few hours is often a sign of proper operation thermostat. However, frequent crackling sounds, a series of repeated knocks, or a hum accompanied by clicks may indicate a failure or problems with the compressor. Ignoring these symptoms can lead to complete equipment failure and damage to products. start relay or problems with the compressor. Ignoring these symptoms can lead to complete equipment failure and food spoilage.
In this article we will analyze in detail the physics of the occurrence of various sounds, draw the line between normality and pathology, and also consider a self-diagnosis algorithm. You will learn to distinguish between the sounds of operating refrigerant and mechanical malfunctions, which will help you make the right decision about calling a specialist or fixing the problem yourself.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any diagnostics related to removing panels or checking electrical contacts, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Working with electrical appliances under voltage is life-threatening.
Physiology of sound: when clicks are the norm
Many users begin to sound the alarm when they hear the first sound, not knowing that modern and even old models of refrigerators do not operate silently. The main source of acceptable sound is the process of expansion and contraction of materials. The plastic of the inner housing and the metal elements of the evaporator have different coefficients of thermal expansion. When there is a sudden change in temperature, for example, immediately after turning off the compressor or turning on the mode Super Freeze, micro-displacement of parts occurs, which is accompanied by a characteristic crackling sound.
Another reason for natural sounds is the movement of refrigerant through the pipes of the system. When freon flows from a high pressure area to a low pressure area, gurgling sounds may occur, turning into light clicking sounds. This is especially noticeable in models with a No Frostsystem, where the circulation of gases is more active. If the sound occurs irregularly and is not accompanied by an increase in temperature in the chambers, most likely everything is in order with your refrigerator.
Particular attention should be paid to the operation of the thermostat. This mechanical or electronic sensor is responsible for turning the compressor motor on and off. When the contacts open or close, a physical click occurs inside the thermostat. This is a normal situation, confirming that automation functions correctly and maintains the specified temperature regime.
- 🔊 Thermal deformation: Crackling of plastic and metal when the temperature inside the chambers changes.
- 💧 Refrigerant movement: Gurgling and overflow caused by the circulation of freon in the circuit.
- ⚙️ Thermostat operation: Single click when the target temperature is reached and the motor is turned off.
- ❄️ No Frost system: Sounds of the fan and defrost timer, which may be accompanied by a slight knocking.
Diagnostics of the starting relay: the most common cause of problems
If the clicks become frequent, they are repeated at short intervals time (for example, every 10-15 seconds) and are accompanied by an attempt to start the engine, which immediately ends, the problem with a high degree of probability lies in the start relay. This small but critical element is responsible for supplying voltage to the compressor windings at the moment of start. When the relay wears out or burns out, it cannot keep the contacts closed, which causes a characteristic click and reset.
You can visually determine the malfunction if you carefully remove the back panel of the refrigerator (after disconnecting it from the network!). The start relay is usually mounted on the side or bottom of the compressor and looks like a plastic box. If, when you shake the relay, you hear a rattling sound, like a loose nut, this means that the internal mechanism is damaged. In this case, the motor cannot start, and the protection system constantly tries to do this by making rhythmic clicks.
Replacing the start relay is one of the few procedures that can be performed independently if you have basic skills and tools. It is important to select an exact copy of the part, as they differ in the type of compressor and power. There is always a marking on the relay body that must be taken into account when purchasing. An incorrectly selected relay may not start the motor or, worse, lead to its burnout.
There is a common misconception that if a relay clicks, it means it is working. In fact, it is the click that often indicates that the contacts are opening due to lack of current or overload. If after replacing the relay the situation has not changed, the problem may be deeper - for example, in the interturn short circuit of the windings of the compressor itself compressor.
Problems with the compressor: water hammer and wear
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator, and any extraneous sounds emanating directly from it require close attention. If you hear a loud metallic clanging sound or a series of loud bangs when starting up, this could be a sign of what's called a problem. This occurs when liquid freon or oil enters the compressor cylinder at the moment the piston begins to move. The liquid does not compress, and a powerful shock occurs, damaging the valves. hydraulic shock. This occurs when liquid freon or oil enters the compressor cylinder at the moment the piston begins to move. The fluid does not compress and a powerful shock occurs, damaging the valves.
Another cause of noise is wear of the internal mechanical parts of the motor. Bearings, piston group and shafts wear out their service life over time. In this case, the clicks are often accompanied by a low hum, vibration of the housing and heating of the compressor. If you touch the motor during such operation, you can feel a strong kickback. Operating a refrigerator with a worn compressor is not recommended, as this can lead to depressurization of the system and leakage of freon.
In some cases, clicks may be caused by loosening of the fastening bolts of the compressor itself or the shock absorbers on which it is suspended. Vibration during operation causes metal to bang against metal. Checking the tightness of the bolts and the condition of the rubber shock absorbers is the first thing you need to do before sinning to internal breakdown of the unit.
| Type of sound | Probable cause | Danger | Actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single click once an hour | Thermostat operation | No | Observation |
| Frequent clicks (every 10-20 sec) | Malfunction of the starting relay | High (risk of motor burning) | Replacement of the relay |
| Loud clanging at start | Water hammer or wear valves | Critical | Call a technician |
| Crackling and crackling | Thermal expansion of plastic | No | Normal |
What is a “dry start” of a compressor?
A dry start is an attempt to start the compressor without sufficient oil or refrigerant. This often happens after improper transportation (if the refrigerator has been lying on its side for less than the required time) or due to a freon leak. In this state, the rubbing parts are not lubricated, which leads to rapid wear and the appearance of strong knocks and clicks.
The influence of the No Frost system on the acoustics of the refrigerator
Refrigerators with the system No Frost have a more complex design than their counterparts with a drip defrosting system. The presence of fans, additional dampers and defrosting heating elements creates more sources of potential noise. Clicks in such models are often associated with work air distribution dampers. This damper opens and closes at electronic commands, regulating the flow of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. The mechanical damper drive can produce clear clicking sounds.
The fan can also be a source of sound. If a “coat” of ice has frozen on the fan blades (which happens when the defrosting system malfunctions or the door is not closed tightly), the blades touch the ice build-up when rotating. This causes a rhythmic rattling or knocking noise that may increase or decrease depending on the speed of the fan motor. In some cases, the sound resembles a ratchet.
It is important to distinguish the sounds of the system operation No Frost from real breakdowns. Cyclic turning on and off of the fan, accompanied by a click, is the normal mode. However, if the sound becomes shrill, whistling, or accompanied by vibration, it is necessary to check the fan mounting and the presence of foreign objects in the air ducts.
- 🌬️ Air Control damper: Clicks when adjusting the flow of cold air between the chambers.
- 🌀 Fan: Noise from ice or dust getting on the blades, shaft beating.
- 🧊 Defrosting system: Crackling of melting ice or falling pieces of ice on the heating element.
- 🔌 Electronic module: Rare clicks of the relay on the control board (less common).
⚠️ Attention: The design and location of the No Frost system elements vary greatly among different manufacturers (LG, Samsung, Bosch, Indesit). Do not try to disassemble the evaporator or air ducts without a diagram of your specific model - this may break the tightness of the circuit.
External factors and operating errors
Before looking for a breakdown inside the unit, it is worth eliminating external factors. Often the source of clicks is the refrigerator body itself if it is installed incorrectly. An uneven floor or lack of adjustment of the support legs leads to misalignment. In this case, the vibration from the operating compressor is transmitted to the housing, causing the panels to rattle and tap against each other.
Another common reason is the refrigerator coming into contact with walls, furniture or communications. Even a minimum gap of 1-2 cm may not be enough if resonance occurs during motor operation. Check that there are no heating or water pipes touching the back of the refrigerator. Vibration can be transmitted through pipes, creating the illusion of a breakdown inside the equipment.
It is also worth checking the contents of the shelves. If dishes or jars are unstable, the vibration of the shelf can cause them to move and collide, which sounds like a knocking sound inside the refrigerator. Make sure that all products are securely fixed and the shelves fit tightly in the grooves.
☑️ Checking external causes of noise
Algorithm of action: when to call a specialist
Self-diagnosis is a useful skill, but it has its limits. If you determine that the clicking sounds are not caused by the thermostat or external factors, and the frequency of their occurrence is increasing, professional intervention is necessary. A particularly alarming symptom is when the refrigerator clicks and tries to start, but does not cool. In this case, delay may lead to defrosting of the entire contents.
A technician will be required if the problem does not go away after replacing the start relay. This indicates more serious problems with the electrical part of the motor or mechanical jamming of the compressor. Also, the help of a specialist is needed if you suspect a freon leak, which is often accompanied by strange sounds in the area of the evaporator and a lack of cold.
You should not ignore the burning smell that may accompany clicks. This is a sure sign of overheating of the wiring or motor windings. In such a situation, operation of the device must be stopped immediately to avoid a fire.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator click but does not turn on?
Most often this indicates a malfunction of the starting relay or the compressor starting winding. The motor tries to start, the relay clicks, but the start does not occur, and the thermal protection is triggered. Also, the cause may be an interturn short circuit in the compressor itself.
Is it normal for the refrigerator to click after defrosting?
Yes, this is normal. During defrosting, the temperature inside the chambers rises, and after switching on it drops again. Sudden changes in temperature cause expansion and contraction of plastic and metal parts, which is accompanied by crackling and clicking noises. This usually goes away after a few hours of operation.
Can a new refrigerator click?
A new refrigerator may make sounds of thermal deformation, since the materials have not yet “got accustomed” to operating temperatures. The No Frost system may also be heard. However, loud mechanical knocks or frequent startup attempts are not typical for new equipment and may be grounds for a return under warranty.
Is it dangerous to ignore clicks in the compressor?
If the clicks are rare and associated with the thermostat, it is not dangerous. But if the compressor is constantly clicking and won't start, ignoring the problem will result in burnt-out motor windings and the need for an expensive compressor replacement. In some cases, repairs become economically unfeasible.
How to extend the life of the compressor so that it does not click?
It is necessary to ensure good ventilation of the back wall, do not place the refrigerator close to the wall. It is important not to overload the chamber with food or place hot food. You should also regularly defrost the refrigerator (if it is not No Frost) and check the tightness of the door so that the motor does not work non-stop.