A sudden loud click, crackling or series of pops coming from the kitchen often causes panic among owners of household appliances. When refrigerator fires, this is a signal that there is a failure in the cooling system or electrical circuit that requires immediate attention. Ignoring such sounds can lead to complete failure of the unit or, in rare cases, cause a wiring fire.
The nature of extraneous noise can be mechanical or electrical. In the first case, vibrations are transmitted to the housing or neighboring objects, in the second, a current breakdown occurs or protective mechanisms are triggered. It is important not just to muffle the sound, but to understand source the problems in order to prevent more serious consequences.
Further actions depend on whether the refrigerator works after a click or whether it has gone silent forever. In this article we will analyze in detail the main causes of malfunctions, methods for eliminating them and situations when calling a technician becomes the only safe solution.
Electrical clicks and problems with the starting relay
The most common reason why a sharp sound is heard and the unit stops working lies in the electrical part. Often the culprit is start relay the device responsible for starting the compressor engine. When you try to start the motor, the relay makes a characteristic clicking sound, but if it is faulty, this sound becomes loud and repetitive.
If you hear a series of clicks, followed by a hum that lasts a few seconds, and then another click and silence, this indicates that the compressor is trying to start, but cannot. This phenomenon is called "cyclic starting". In such a situation is strictly prohibited leaving the refrigerator plugged in, as the motor windings may overheat and burn out.
Also, the source of electrical crackling can be poor contact in plug or the socket. Oxidation of contacts leads to sparking, which is accompanied by a sound similar to shots or crackling. Check to see if the plug gets hot when touched by hand (carefully!), and inspect the power cord for melting.
How to check the starting relay without instruments?
Remove the back cover of the refrigerator, find the black barrel (relay) on the compressor. Carefully remove it and shake it. If you hear a rattling sound inside (like broken glass), then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
You may need a multimeter to diagnose electrical components. However, if you do not have the skills to work with electrical appliances under voltage, it is better to limit yourself to a visual inspection.
- 🔌 Check the tightness of the connection of the plug in the socket and the absence of carbon deposits.
- 🔊 Listen: a single click when turning on is normal, a series of clicks is a breakdown.
- 🔥 Touch the compressor housing: if it is hot and the refrigerator does not work, the thermal relay has tripped.
☑️ Primary electrical diagnostics
Mechanical sounds: compressor and vibrations
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator, and its operation is not always silent. However, loud bangs, knocks and “shots” inside the metal case indicate mechanical damage. One of the common causes is hydraulic hammerwhich occurs when liquid refrigerant enters the compressor cylinder.
It is also worth paying attention to the mounts of the engine itself. If shock absorbers or the springs on which the compressor is suspended are worn out or burst, the motor housing begins to hit the metal casing or frame every time it starts. This creates a very loud, frightening sound that can easily be confused with a gunshot.
Sometimes the cause is itself piston or the valves inside the compressor. Wear of these parts leads to the appearance of backlashes, which, when working under high pressure, cause metal to metal impacts. Unlike electrical clicks, mechanical sounds are often accompanied by strong vibration of the entire housing.
The table below shows the main differences between the types of mechanical noise:
| Sound type | Probable cause | Danger |
|---|---|---|
| Loud knocking at start-up | Compressor impact on casing | High (rupture of tubes) |
| Metal clanging | Destruction of valves | Critical (replacement compressor) |
| Humming with vibration | Incorrect installation | Low (adjustment of legs) |
| Crackling during operation | Deformation of plastic/pipes | Average (tightness failure) |
If you find that the compressor is dangling inside, you must immediately turn off the device. Prolonged operation in this mode is guaranteed to lead to a break in the copper tubes of the cooling system.
Thermal deformation and sounds inside the chamber
Not all sounds that the refrigerator makes are a sign of a breakdown. Quite often, users are frightened by loud pops and crackles coming from inside the refrigerator or freezer. In most cases, this is an absolutely normal physical process associated with thermal expansion materials.
Plastic panels, the evaporator and other internal elements contract or expand with a sharp change in temperature. When the temperature difference is large, the plastic can make sounds very similar to gunshots or the cracking of branches in a fire. This especially often happens immediately after defrosting or when turning on a new unit for the first time.
However, if such sounds suddenly appear in an old refrigerator that previously worked quietly, it is worth checking the condition evaporator. Ice frozen on the tubes can break off and fall with a crash onto metal shelves or the bottom of the chamber, simulating a breakdown.
⚠️ Attention: If a cracking sound inside the chamber is accompanied by the disappearance of cold or the appearance of water on the floor, this may indicate depressurization of the system or problems with drainage condensation, and not just expansion of the plastic.
To reduce the noise level from thermal deformation, manufacturers use special composite materials, but it is impossible to completely eliminate them. If the sounds become too frequent, check to see if any object is touching the interior walls of the chamber.
Problems with the No Frost system and the fan
In refrigerators with the system No Frost the source of sharp sounds is often the fan circulating cold air. If ice freezes on the fan blades, when rotating it begins to touch the walls of the casing, producing a loud crack or a series of blows.
Also in such models it can shoot Defrosting heating element. When heated, micro-pops may occur on the surface of the heating element or on drops of moisture. This phenomenon is less dangerous, but requires checking the condition of the drainage system. If the water does not drain, it freezes and creates ice plugs, which, when bursting, create noise.
In some cases, extraneous sounds are produced by the damper that regulates the air flow between the chambers. If the damper mechanism jams or breaks, it may slam under the pressure of the air flow.
- ❄️ Check for frost on the back wall of the freezer.
- 🌀 Listen for sound coming from the fan area.
- 🚪 Make sure that the air duct damper does not dangle or hit the plastic.
To fix the problem, it is often necessary to completely defrost the refrigerator within 10-12 hours. This will allow the ice to melt and free the rotating parts.
External factors and improper operation
Before diagnosing complex breakdowns, external factors should be excluded. The refrigerator may “shoot” due to the fact that it is not level. If one of support legs does not touch the floor or the adjustment is broken, the case warps, which leads to metal tension and sharp sounds when the compressor vibrates.
Objects located next to the refrigerator can also become a source of noise. Vibration transmitted through the floor causes dishes on adjacent shelves to rattle or elements of the kitchen unit adjacent to the appliances to rattle. The sound may bounce off the walls and appear to be coming from inside the unit.
Poor ventilation is another cause of problems. If the refrigerator is pushed close to the wall or cabinets, heat is not removed from the condenser. This causes overheating, increased pressure in the system and, as a result, noisier operation and possible water hammer.
Check whether there are heavy objects or cans on the top panel of the refrigerator. They can serve as resonators that enhance any operating sounds of the engine.
When you need to call a technician
There are situations when self-repair is not only useless, but also dangerous. If after the click the refrigerator stops freezing, and the compressor hums and turns off after a few seconds, most likely the start relay or the compressor itself needs to be replaced.
If you smell burning, see sparks or hear a sound like an explosion (pop with a release of pressure), immediately unplug the appliance. This may indicate a breakdown of the winding or, in rare cases, ignition of the refrigerant (if a flammable gas is used, for example, isobutane).
Complicated cases requiring specialist intervention:
- 🛠️ The need to solder copper pipes and refill with freon.
- 🔋 Replacement of the compressor or complex diagnostics of the electrical circuit.
- 💧 Removing blockages in the capillary system (pressure blowing is required).
⚠️ Attention: Opening the cooling system without special equipment will lead to moisture and air entering, which will finally remove the refrigerator from building. Do not try to solder tubes yourself if you do not have the skills and tools.
The technician will conduct professional diagnostics, determine the exact cause of the “shots” and carry out repairs with a guarantee. In the case of modern equipment, stuffed with electronics, it is better not to take risks.
Prevention and care of equipment
To avoid unpleasant surprises in the form of loud clicks and breakdowns, it is necessary to regularly service the refrigerator. Timely defrosting (for drip systems) prevents the formation of a thick ice crust, which puts a strain on the compressor.
Regularly clean the condenser (grid at the back) of dust and pet hair. A heat exchanger clogged with dust forces the engine to work at its limit, which shortens its life and increases the likelihood of overheating and noisy operation.
Monitor the condition of the rubber seals on the doors. If they allow warm air to pass through, the refrigerator will work almost non-stop, which also leads to accelerated wear of parts and the appearance of extraneous sounds.
How often should you clean the condenser?
Ideally - every 6 months. If you have pets that shed all year round, you should clean them once every 3 months using a vacuum cleaner or soft brush.
Simple operating rules will extend the life of your refrigerator and keep the kitchen quiet. Do not overload the chambers with food and monitor the temperature conditions.
Why does the refrigerator click but does not turn on?
Most likely, the start relay has failed or the compressor has jammed. A break in the motor winding is also possible. Diagnostics with a multimeter is required.
Is it dangerous if the refrigerator makes sounds like gunshots?
Yes, this may indicate an electrical breakdown or mechanical destruction of parts. Operation in this mode can lead to a fire or complete failure of the equipment.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it is cracking?
If the cracking is caused by thermal expansion of the plastic and the cold remains, it is possible. If the sound is electrical or mechanical (metal impacts), operation must be stopped until the cause is determined.
How much does repair cost if a compressor burns out?
Replacing a compressor is one of the most expensive procedures, often accounting for up to 70% of the cost of a new refrigerator. It is often more advisable to buy new equipment.