The situation when a two-chamber refrigerator freezer compartment continues to perform its functions, but the cold in the refrigerator compartment suddenly disappears, is one of the most common and alarming for owners of household appliances. You open the door expecting the usual freshness, but instead you feel room temperature, while the food in the freezer is still frozen solid. Such desynchronized behavior of the system often indicates that the refrigeration cycle is not completely broken, but a critical failure has already occurred in the circuit responsible for distributing the cold.
Why is this happening? In modern units, be it Indesit, Atlant or Samsung, different mechanisms may be responsible for maintaining the temperature in different zones, but most often they are tied to a single refrigerant circulation system. If one compartment works and the other does not, this narrows the scope of troubleshooting to specific components: the thermostat, the defrost system, or the integrity of the freon circuit. Ignoring the problem in the first hours can lead to damage to a large number of products and higher repair costs.
In this material we will analyze in detail the mechanics of the process so that you can understand what exactly is broken in your case. You don't need to be a refrigeration engineer to diagnose basic problems, but it is important to be careful when interacting with electrical components. We will consider both simple cases that can be solved by defrosting, as well as complex technical malfunctions that require the intervention of a specialist.
The principle of operation of a two-chamber cooling system
To understand why the cold in the upper chamber has disappeared, you need to briefly refresh your memory on the principle of operation two-chamber refrigerator. Unlike single-chamber models, where cold air from the freezer naturally falls down, in two-chamber units these compartments are often isolated from each other by a partition. Cooling occurs due to circulation refrigerant (freon) through a closed circuit of tubes.
In systems with one compressor, the refrigerant first passes through the evaporator of the freezer, where boils and takes away heat, and then, if the design allows, it enters the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber. In models with the system No Frost cold air is forced by a fan from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment through special channels. If the fan stops or the channels freeze, circulation stops.
It is important to distinguish between control systems: in some models one general thermostat is responsible for the temperature, in others - an electronic module and several sensors. Malfunction any element of this chain leads to an imbalance. For example, if the compressor works non-stop, but there is no cold, it means that the freon does not circulate or does not cool the evaporator properly.
⚠️ Attention: Attempting to independently repair the freon circulation system without special equipment and a license is prohibited by law and is dangerous to health. All work related to depressurization of the circuit must be performed by certified craftsmen.
How does the cooling cycle work?
The refrigerant in a liquid state under pressure enters the evaporator, where it expands sharply and boils, turning into gas. During this process, it actively absorbs heat from the refrigerator chambers. Then the gaseous freon is pumped out by a compressor, compressed, heated and enters the condenser (grid at the back), where it cools down and becomes liquid again, after which the cycle repeats.
Natural defrosting as a method of primary diagnosis
Before you panic and call a technician, it is worth eliminating the most common, but common cause - the formation of ice traffic jams In system refrigerators No Frost or Frost Free there is an automatic defrosting system that periodically heats the evaporator to melt frozen frost. If the defrost timer, heater or temperature sensor fails, the ice is not removed and gradually blocks the channels through which cold air should flow into the refrigerator compartment.
As a result, the freezer, where the main source of cold is located, continues to freeze, and the upper compartment becomes warm. Visually, you may not notice this, since the evaporator is often hidden behind a plastic panel. The only way to test this hypothesis is to completely defrost the unit. This action will also help reset the errors of the electronic control module if they were temporary.
To carry out the procedure, you must:
- 🧊 Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply and remove all products.
- 🚪 Leave the doors of both chambers wide open for at least 12-24 hours.
- 💧 Prepare containers for collecting melt water and rags, since there can be a lot of water.
- ⏳ Do not turn on the appliance immediately after defrosting, but let it stand for another 2-3 hours.
If after turning on the refrigerator started working normally and cold appeared, then the problem lay in the defrosting system. However, this is a temporary solution: after a week or two, the ice plug will form again if the burnt defrost heating element or faulty sensor is not replaced. If defrosting did not help, then the reason lies deeper.
☑️ Correct defrosting
Freon leak: symptoms and localization
One of the most serious reasons why freezer compartment works, but the refrigeration unit does not, is a partial leak refrigerant. Freon is the working fluid of the refrigerator, and without it heat exchange is impossible. Leakage can occur through microcracks in the foamed part of the housing, in places where tubes are soldered, or through corrosion of the capacitor. Since the circuit is closed, the freon does not simply disappear; it evaporates into the atmosphere through the hole.
If there is a leak, the amount of gas in the system decreases. It is no longer enough for the entire cooling cycle. The compressor, trying to gain temperature, runs continuously or with very short pauses. In such a situation, freon only manages to cool the first section of the evaporator (usually the freezer), and the cold simply does not reach the refrigerator compartment. A characteristic sign of a leak is a hot compressor housing and the absence of characteristic bubbling or hissing in the tubes during operation.
Localization of the leak is often accompanied by the appearance of oily spots under the refrigerator or on the back wall, as freon circulates along with the compressor oil. However, in the case of foamed evaporators, there may be no external manifestations at all. Diagnostics leakage requires the use of a leak detector or nitrogen pressure testing method, which cannot be done at home without a tool.
| Symptom | Probability leaks | Actions |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor hums constantly | High | Call a technician to find a leak |
| The freezer freezes poorly | Medium | Check the tightness of the doors |
| Oil stains are visible | Critical | Urgently turn off the device |
| The refrigerator turns on rarely | Low | Check the thermostat |
If a leak is confirmed, the repair will consist of finding a hole, sealing it, evacuating the system and filling with a new portion of freon. Important to know: if the leak occurs in a foamed part of the body (inside the wall of the refrigerator), repairs may not be economically feasible, since they will require the installation of an external evaporator (“crying” on the back wall).
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. If it does not work properly, the pressure in the system is disturbed and the circulation of the refrigerant stops. Often, owners hear the engine humming, trying to start, clicking and then going silent. This is a classic symptom of a malfunction start relay or the windings of the compressor itself. A relay is a small plastic block that is placed on the motor contact and supplies a starting pulse.
If the relay is burned out, the compressor cannot enter operating mode. In some cases, when the compressor loses its performance (for example, due to burnout of the valves inside), it may hum, but not create the necessary pressure. Then the freon circulates, but very slowly, cooling only the freezer, which is located closer to the compressor outlet. The gas reaches the refrigeration chamber already warm or does not reach it at all.
You can diagnose a problem with the compressor by the following signs:
- 🔥 The motor housing is excessively hot (more than 80-90 degrees) or, conversely, cold during operation.
- 🔊 Loud noises are heard clicks when trying to start, followed by silence.
- ⚡ Electricity consumption has increased sharply, and no cold is produced.
- 🌫️ The smell of burning or melted insulation in the engine compartment area.
Replacing a compressor is a complex and expensive repair that requires refilling systems. Replacing the start relay, on the other hand, is simple and cheap. If you hear clicking sounds, try carefully removing the relay (after unplugging the refrigerator!) and shaking it. If it rattles inside like a rattle, it means the part is damaged and requires replacement.
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
A thermostat (thermostat) is a device that commands the compressor to turn on when the temperature in the chamber rises above the set one, and to turn it off when the temperature is set. If the thermostat is faulty and does not “see” the temperature increase, it simply will not turn on the compressor. However, two-compartment refrigerators often have a separate sensor for the refrigerator compartment. If it is lying, the compressor may not turn on until the freezer becomes too warm.
In electronic models, this function is performed temperature sensors, the signals from which are processed by the control module. If the sensor “runs away” and shows that the chamber is -5°C, although in fact it is +15°C, the control module will not start cooling. Often such sensors are located in plastic cases and mounted on the walls or inside air ducts.
You can check a mechanical thermostat using the elimination method: by closing its contacts directly. If during a short circuit the refrigerator turns on and gets cold, it means the thermostat needs to be replaced. In electronic systems, diagnostics require a multimeter and knowledge of the sensor resistance at different temperatures. Typically, at room temperature, the sensor resistance is about 5-10 kOhm, but this value depends on the model.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics of sensors (resistance, type) from different manufacturers (Liebherr, Bosch, LG) may vary dramatically. Installing an unsuitable sensor will lead to incorrect operation of the entire system.
It is also worth checking the temperature control knob. In mechanical models, it could simply jump off the thermostat shaft, and you twist the plastic, but the shaft remains in place. In this case, adjustment does not occur and the operating mode does not change.
Fan malfunctions and capillary blockage
In refrigerators No Frost the fan is responsible for air circulation. If its blades become iced up or the motor burns out, cold air stops flowing from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. As a result, it may be even colder in the freezer than normal (since the cold does not go anywhere), but it is warm at the top. You can test the fan by opening the freezer door and holding down the light control button (or door sensor) to simulate closing. If after a couple of minutes there is no fan noise, the problem is there.
Another mechanical problem is clogging of the capillary tube. The circulation system has a very thin tube where freon is throttled. If there is moisture or oil breakdown products in the system, they can turn into an ice or dirt plug. This blocks the flow of refrigerant. The symptom is similar to a leak: the compressor is running, the freezer is cold, but the refrigerator compartment is warm. Only a specialist can distinguish a blockage from a leak by the pressure in the system.
Often the blockage is temporary ("water hammer") and can disappear after a long defrosting (the same 24 hours mentioned above). But if the plug was formed due to moisture ingress during poor-quality previous repairs, it will return regularly.
When you need to call a technician
DIY Repair is possible only if the light bulb, thermostat (mechanical), start relay is replaced or defrost is performed. All other situations require professional intervention. If you find that the cooling system tubes are damaged, or suspect a freon leak, doing it yourself can only cause harm. The technician has a tool to evacuate the system and accurately charge the refrigerant.
You should also contact a specialist if the problem lies in the electronic control module. Board repair requires circuit knowledge and special equipment. An attempt to “reflash” or resolder a module without experience often leads to complete failure of the equipment.
Do not delay calling a technician if the food in the refrigerator compartment begins to deteriorate. Long-term idle operation of the compressor (if there is a leak or blockage) can lead to its overheating and final combustion, which will increase the cost of repairs significantly.
Why does the refrigerator work non-stop, but does not freeze?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or a clogged capillary system. The compressor tries to build up temperature, but due to a lack of refrigerant or blockage of the refrigerant flow, the heat is not removed. Also, the reason may be a loose fit of the door seal, which is why warm air constantly enters the chamber.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if one chamber is not working?
For a short time - it is possible if you transfer the products into a working chamber or use them. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which can work without rest. In addition, bacteria and mold will develop in a non-functional chamber.
How much does it cost to repair if the cold in the refrigerator compartment is lost?
The cost depends on the breakdown. Replacing a thermostat or relay is inexpensive. Refilling with freon and finding leaks will cost the most. The exact amount can only be given after diagnosis, since the price consists of the cost of work and spare parts.
How often do you need to defrost a No Frost refrigerator?
The No Frost system does not require manual defrosting to remove ice, but it is recommended to wash the refrigerator and let it rest unplugged at least once a year. This extends the life of the compressor and prevents the appearance of unpleasant odors.