Why only the freezer freezes in the refrigerator: 10 reasons and what to do

You opened the refrigerator, and the food in the main chamber is warm or barely cool, but the freezer works as usual? This is a common malfunction that can occur in both old Samsung RL-33and new LG InstaView. The reasons lie in the cooling system, electronics or mechanical damage. In 70% of cases, the problem can be fixed on your own - without calling a technician.

In this article we will look at why the refrigerator has stopped cooling the main chamber, but the freezer continues to freeze. You will learn how to diagnose a breakdown based on indirect signs (noise, blinking indicators, ice on the back wall), which parts most often fail, and when it’s really time to call a specialist. And also - all possible reasons, according to which the refrigerator has stopped cooling the main chamber, but the freezer continues to freeze. You will learn how to diagnose a breakdown based on indirect signs (noise, blinking indicators, ice on the back wall), which parts most often fail, and when it’s really time to call a specialist. And also - step-by-step repair instructions with photos and videos that save up to 5,000 rubles on service center services.

1. Capillary tube clogged: why the refrigerator “freezes” in the freezer

The capillary tube is a thin copper channel through which the refrigerant (freon) flows from the condenser to the evaporator. If it gets clogged Freon cannot circulate freely, and all the cold is “locked” in the freezer. The main chamber remains warm or is poorly cooled.

Signs of clogging:

• 🔊 The compressor runs without stopping, but the refrigerator does not cool.
• ❄️ On the back wall a thick layer of ice forms in the freezer.
• 🌡️ The temperature in the main chamber is above +10°C, even at maximum mode.

What to do? At home, it is almost impossible to clean the capillary tube; special equipment is required for purging with nitrogen. But you can try defrost the refrigerator for 24 hours (by unplugging it) - sometimes this helps if the blockage is caused by oil or moisture crystals. If this does not help, you need to replace the tube or the entire circuit.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to clean the tube with wire or other objects! This can damage the inner surface and make the problem worse.

2. No Frost fan failure: when the cold “does not reach” the main chamber

In refrigerators with a system No Frost (for example, Indesit BIAA 13 or Bosch KGN39VL30) the fan is responsible for air circulation. If it breaks, cold air from the freezer stops flowing into the main chamber. At the same time, the freezer continues to freeze, since the refrigerant circulates normally.

How to check the fan:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the back panel in the freezer (usually it is secured with latches or screws).
3. Try to turn the fan blades by hand - if they do not rotate or make a creaking sound, the part is faulty.
4. Connect the refrigerator and listen: if the fan does not make noise after turning it on, it needs to be replaced.

The cost of a new fan is from 1,200 to 3,000 rubles, depending on the model. Replacement takes 20–30 minutes and does not require special skills.

3. Malfunction of the thermostat or temperature sensor

The thermostat (or electronic sensor in modern models) regulates the inclusion of the compressor. If it fails, the compressor can operate continuously only for the freezer, ignoring the main chamber. Most often this happens due to:

• 🔌 Short circuit in the sensor circuit.
• 🧊 Icing of contacts (in models with drip defrosting).
• 🕰️ Natural wear (the thermostat service life is 5–7 years).

How to diagnose:

1. Find the thermostat (usually it is located next to the light bulb or on the back wall).
2. Remove the terminals and check the resistance with a multimeter. At room temperature it should be 0 Ohm (closed), when cooling - infinity (open).
3. If the readings do not change - the sensor defective.

The cost of the thermostat is from 500 rubles. Replacement takes 10–15 minutes.

4. Freon leak: when the refrigerator “loses cold”

Freon is a refrigerant that circulates through the system and removes heat. If a leak occurs (for example, due to tube corrosion or mechanical damage), its quantity decreases. In this case, the compressor can “drive” the remaining freon only along a short circuit of the freezer, and it simply does not reach the main chamber.

Signs of a leak:

• 🔧 The compressor works without stopping, but does not cool.
• 🛠️ On the back wall of the refrigerator oil stains are visible (freon mixed with oil).
• 📉 The temperature in the freezer gradually increases (first to -10°C, then to 0°C).

What to do? A freon leak cannot be eliminated on your own; it requires soldering pipesevacuating the system and charging it with new refrigerant. The average cost of repairs is 3,500–6,000 rubles.

⚠️ Attention: Freon is toxic! If you suspect a leak, ventilate the room and do not turn on the refrigerator until repairs.

5. Compressor failure: when the refrigerator “does not work”

The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator, which pumps freon through the system. If it fails, the refrigerator may:

• 🔌 Turn on for a few seconds and immediately turn off.
• 🔊 Buzz louder than usual, but not cool.
• 📛 Show an error on the display (for example, E1 or F2 in models Samsung).

Causes of compressor failure:

• 🔋 Voltage drops in the network.
• 🕰️ Natural wear (service life - 10–15 years).
• 🛠️ Factory defect (found in cheap models Beko or Pozytron).

What to do? The compressor cannot be repaired - only replacement. The average cost of a new compressor is 5,000–12,000 rubles (depending on the model). If the refrigerator is more than 10 years, it is often more profitable to buy a new one.

How to check a compressor with a multimeter?

To check the compressor, turn off the refrigerator, remove the start relay and measure the resistance between the contacts:

- Between C (common) and S (starting winding) - should be ~20–40 Ohm.

- Between C and R (working winding) - ~10–20 Ohm.

- Between S i R —the sum of the two previous values ​​(~30–60 Ohms).

If the readings are different or equal 0/infinity —the compressor is faulty.

6. Breakdown of the control board: when the electronics “go crazy”

In modern refrigerators (for example, LG Door-in-Door or Samsung Family Hub) the electronic board is responsible for the distribution of cold. If it fails, a malfunction in the operating logic may occur: the compressor will only drive freon into the freezer, ignoring the main chamber.

Signs of a board malfunction:

• 📱 The refrigerator displays errors on the display (for example, Er IF or E 22).
• 🔄 The operating modes switch on their own.
• 🔌 The refrigerator does not respond to button presses.

What should I do? The board must be repaired (resoldering capacitors or microcircuits) or replaced. The average cost of repair is 2,500–5,000 rubles. the refrigerator is under warranty, contact a service center - electronics are often covered by the warranty longer than mechanical parts.

7. Freezing of the drainage hole: when water blocks the cold

In refrigerators with a drip system. defrosting (for example, Atlant MHM 1842), condensation flows down the back wall into the drainage hole. If it freezes, water accumulates at the bottom of the chamber and forms an ice plug. This can block the access of cold air from the freezer.

How. eliminate:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and defrost it for 12-24 hours.
2. Clean the drainage hole with a cotton swab or soft wire.
3. Rinse the hole with warm water and soda (1 tablespoon per glass of water).

To prevent the problem from recurring, keep the refrigerator clean and do not place food close to the back wall.

8. Problems with the door seal: when the cold “leaks away”

If the rubber seal on the main chamber door is damaged or dirty, warm air gets inside, but the compressor tries to compensate for this. all the cold goes into the freezer, since it is better insulated.

How to check the seal:

• 🔍 Inspect the rubber band for cracks, tears or deformation.
• 📄 Check the tightness: insert a piece of paper between the door and the body. If it falls out -. the seal is not airtight.
• 🧼 Wipe the rubber band with soapy water - sometimes it just sticks due to grease.

If the seal is damaged, it needs to be replaced. The cost of a new rubber band is from 800 to 2,000 rubles. Replacement takes 10–20. minutes.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about the main chamber not working

The freezer is freezing, but the refrigerator is not - what to do first?

First, defrost the refrigerator for 12–24 hours. If the problem persists after turning it on, check the fan (in models No Frost), thermostat and door seal. In 50% of cases, the problem is eliminated after defrosting.

The refrigerator Indesit hums, but does not cool - what is the reason?

Most likely the compressor is faulty or the capillary tube is clogged. If the hum is constant and the compressor is hot, this is a sign of mechanical failure. If the hum is intermittent and the freezer is working, check the thermostat or control board.

Is it possible to fill the freon yourself? refrigerator?

No. To refill freon, you need special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauges, a refrigerant bottle) and a certificate for working with freon. Incorrect refilling can lead to an explosion or poisoning.

How much does it cost to repair if only the refrigerator compartment does not work?

The cost depends on the reason:

• Replacement of the thermostat - 500-1,500 rubles.
• Repair of the control board - 2,500-5,000 rubles.
• Replacement of the compressor - 5,000-12,000 rub.
• Freon leakage repair - 3,500–6,000 rubles.

On average, repairs cost 2,000–7,000 rubles.

How to prevent breakdown if the refrigerator is already old?

Follow simple rules:

• Defrost the refrigerator every 3-6 months (even if No Frost).
• Do not put hot foods in the chamber.
• Check the seal once a month.
• Use a stabilizer voltage.

This will extend the life of the refrigerator by 3-5 years.