The situation when the freezer in the refrigerator has stopped freezingtakes any home cook by surprise. At first glance, the equipment works properly: the compressor hums, the light inside is on, and the door closes tightly, but the food begins to melt. This is a signal that the cooling cycle is broken or a refrigerant leak has occurred. Before calling a technician, it is necessary to carry out an initial diagnosis, since in 30% of cases the problem lies in improper operation or a minor malfunction.
Modern units, whether Indesit, Bosch or Atlantare designed on a similar principle, but have their own design features. If you notice that the temperature in the chamber has risen above -12°C and the products have lost their properties, you need to act quickly. Ignoring the problem can lead to damage to inventory and costly repair of the compressor.
In this article we will analyze the main reasons why the refrigerator has stopped freezingand create an algorithm of actions to eliminate the problem. It is important to understand the difference between a technical failure and a temporary malfunction so as not to spend extra money on service.
Primary diagnostics and checking the operating mode
First of all, if the freezer is not freezingyou need to make sure that the equipment is not switched to defrost or storage mode. Many modern models are equipped with a Eco Mode or “Vacation” function, in which the temperature in the main chamber is maintained at +15°C to save energy, and the freezer compartment can operate in a gentle mode or be turned off.
Check the control panel. Sometimes children or pets can accidentally change the settings by turning the temperature control to low. It is also worth paying attention to the indicators: if the red “Alarm” or “Attention” light is flashing, this is a direct indication that the temperature regime has been violated.
⚠️ Attention: If you have just defrosted the refrigerator and turned it on, do not expect instant cooling. It takes the compressor 4 to 8 hours to reach full capacity and freeze food to the desired temperature.
Make sure the power cord is securely plugged into the outlet and the voltage is stable. Power surges could cause the controller to reset. In some models LG i Samsung when there is a power surge, the protection system blocks the start of the compressor for several hours.
Operating errors: overload and ventilation
A common reason for this the refrigerator does not freeze wellis a banal overload of the chamber with products. If you have just added a large amount of warm food or packed your freezer tightly to the top, the circulation of cold air is disrupted. In systems No Frost air must pass freely through special openings.
Pay attention to the location of products at the back wall. If the packages touch the inside of the chamber, a layer of ice may form there, blocking the evaporator from operating. This is especially true for older models where manual defrosting is required.
☑️ Checking operating conditions
Proper installation of the unit is also critically important. If the refrigerator is placed too close to the wall or in a niche without proper clearance, the heat transfer from the condenser (the grille at the back) will deteriorate. The compressor works for wear, but temperature in the freezer does not drop to the required values.
Problems with the seal and chamber tightness
One of the most common reasons why The freezer does not stay cold, is wear of the rubber door seal. Over time, the rubber dries out, cracks or deforms, no longer fitting tightly to the body. Warm air constantly enters the chamber through the cracks formed.
The compressor tries to compensate for the heat influx and works without stopping, but does not have time to freeze the chamber to -18°C. This leads not only to spoilage of food, but also to the formation of a huge “coat” of ice, since moisture from the air actively condenses inside.
You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter. If the paper falls out or is pulled out without effort, the seal requires replacement or adjustment.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| Ice only at the entrance | Loose fit doors | Low (seal replacement) |
| The compressor hums constantly | Freon leakage or motor wear | High (a technician is required) |
| Loud knocking sound when starting | Malfunction of the start relay | Medium (part replacement) |
| Inside is dry, but warm | Clogged capillary tube | High (cleaning the system) |
Malfunctions of the defrosting system (for No Frost)
If you have a refrigerator with a system No Frost i the freezer has stopped freezing, most likely, one of the elements of the defrosting system has failed. In such units, moisture does not settle on the walls, but is removed outside, but for this, the evaporator must be periodically defrosted by a heating element.
The main “culprits” of failure in this unit:
- ❄️ Defrost heating element: it burns out and does not melts the ice on the evaporator, causing the ice to block air circulation.
- ❄️ Thermostat or defrost sensor: does not give a signal to turn on the heating or, conversely, does not turn it off in time.
- ❄️ Defrost timer: gets stuck in cooling or defrosting mode, breaking the work cycle.
As a result, a huge lump of ice grows on the evaporator, which is hidden behind a plastic panel in the freezer or behind the back wall. The fan cannot push cold air through this ice plug, and the chamber becomes warm. Outwardly, it may look like a working compressor, but without cold.
How to check the defrosting heating element?
To check the heating element, you need a multimeter. You need to get to the evaporator (remove the back panel in the freezer), disconnect the wires from the heating element and ring it. If the device shows an open circuit (infinity), the heating element has burned out and requires replacement. Often, along with the heating element, the defrost sensor is also changed.
Refrigerant leak and system blockage
A more serious reason why the refrigerator does not gain temperature in the freezer is a freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack forms in the tubes or evaporator, the gas escapes. Without freon, heat exchange is impossible.
Signs of a leak:
- 🛑 The compressor runs continuously without turning off.
- 🛑 The condenser (grid at the back) remains cold or warm only partially.
- 🛑 There is no ice in the freezer, the food is just warm.
Another problem is clogged capillary tube. A blood clot could have formed in the system from oil or moisture oxidation products. There is freon, but it cannot circulate. In this case, gurgling or hissing is often heard, and the condenser may only be hot at the beginning.
⚠️ Attention: Trying to fill the refrigerator with freon or soldering the tubes on your own is strictly prohibited without a license and equipment. This requires evacuation of the system and precise dosage of the refrigerant.
Failure of the compressor and start relay
The “heart” of the refrigerator is the compressor. If it fails, then the freezer does not work. However, often the problem lies not in the motor itself, but in the starting relay, which sends a pulse to it to start.
If you hear the refrigerator trying to turn on: there is a click, a hum lasts 3-5 seconds, then a click again and silence - this is a classic symptom of a faulty start relay or compressor jamming. In the first case, repairs will be inexpensive, in the second, replacement of an expensive unit will be required.
In modern inverter models Electrolux or Whirlpool the electronic control module is responsible for starting. Its diagnosis requires special knowledge and equipment. If the control board is “buggy”, it may not supply the correct voltage to the motor windings.
When to call a technician: critical signs
There are a number of situations when the question “what to do if the refrigerator has stopped freezing" requires immediate contact to a service center. Self-diagnosis here is powerless and dangerous.
Call a specialist if:
- 🔧 You find oily spots under the refrigerator or on the pipes at the back (a sign of freon leakage along with oil).
- 🔧 The compressor makes unnatural sounds: clanging, grinding, strong vibrational hum.
- 🔧 After complete defrosting (24 hours without turning on), the refrigerator started working for a day, and then stopped freezing again (a sign of a blockage).
Remember that calling a technician in a timely manner is often cheaper, than replacing a burnt-out compressor that was damaged due to idle operation due to a freon leak.
Why does ice form in the freezer, but the food melts?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system in refrigerators No Frost. A layer of ice builds up on the hidden evaporator, blocking the fan. The cold simply does not reach the products, although the temperature sensor may show the norm locally. Defrosting is required (at least 24 hours) and replacement of the heating element or sensor.
Is it possible to store food if the freezer does not freeze?
No, storing frozen food at temperatures above -12°C is dangerous to health. Bacteria begin to actively multiply, and the structure of the products is destroyed. If the repair takes time, it is better to transfer the food to another freezer or eat it after heat treatment, if it has not yet spoiled.
How long does it take the refrigerator to reach the temperature after defrosting?
Usually the process of reaching the mode takes from 4 to 8 hours. At this time, you should not load the camera with food. If after 10-12 hours of operation when empty the freezer has not cooled down, it means there is a technical malfunction.
Does the floor level affect the operation of the freezer?
Yes, it does. If the refrigerator is tilted, the door may not fit tightly, or the oil in the compressor may shift, making it difficult to start. Be sure to level the equipment by adjusting the front legs.
What to do if it is warm in the freezer and cold in the refrigerator?
In two-compressor models, this means a breakdown of the freezer circuit (leakage, compressor). In single-compressor units, there is a problem with the mode switch or a blockage in the freezer circuit. Diagnostics by a technician is required.